The Wine Advocate

As usual, the grapes come from a selection of old vines in the Mosconi, Gabutti and Ravera plots, whose limestone- and clay-rich soils lend the wines a delicate minerality and structure. The wine is aged separately by vineyard for around 12 months in used barriques before the cuvée is blended. A deep ruby red with a purple core – a glance into the glass already reveals the depth of this vintage. The bouquet unfolds into a complex interplay of aromas of ripe cherry, plum and dark berries, accompanied by hints of violet, liquorice and a touch of dried herbs. On the palate, it is juicy and focused, with lively acidity, ripe fruit and supple tannins. The 2023 vintage currently appears a touch fresher and more youthful than its predecessor, yet retains the balance between regional roots and the finely nuanced style for which Chiara Boschis is renowned. SUPERIORE.DE

1976 was Paolo De Marchis's first year at Isole e Olena. He was 25; at that time, Chianti Classico was a wine that hardly anyone thought had a future, and the two medieval hamlets – Isole and Olena – were what his father Francesco had bought in 1956: two dilapidated farmsteads in the hills west of Castellina. Paolo stayed. For almost fifty years. What he made of this estate changed the history of Chianti Classico. He was one of the first to vinify Sangiovese separately, one of the first to bring the hillside terraces back into cultivation, and one of the first to take Sangiovese seriously as a single-varietal wine. His Cepparello – first bottled in 1980 – became one of Italy's benchmark wines. Emanuele Reolon, the new technical director at Isole e Olena, sums it up as follows: "Paolo brought the Piedmontese style to Tuscany. He treated Sangiovese like Nebbiolo." At the time, that was revolutionary. Today, it is dogma.

High up on the southern slopes of Mount Etna, where the Contrada Manzuedda in Biancavilla rises towards the sky at an altitude of 900 metres, lies an extraordinary vineyard, as old as the dreams that gave rise to it. Here, between the eternal snow of the peaks and the flames of the volcano, where the first Carricante vines took root in the volcanic soil in 1950, A' Puddara, "the hen", is born. This is what the Sicilians call the Pleiades in their dialect – those seven sisters in the night sky who, in summer, shine from the sea above the volcanic peak. Silvia Maestrelli, Fessina's visionary pioneer who sadly passed away far too soon, dedicated this wine to the starry skies of her Sicilian nights – a fitting tribute to this island of dreams and fire.

In 1970, Caparzo produced its first Brunello, at a time when there were just thirteen wineries in Montalcino – one of the appellation's historic estates. What continues to set Caparzo's Brunello apart to this day is the provenance of its Sangiovese grapes: The estate is one of the few in Montalcino to own vineyards spread across various geographical zones throughout the entire appellation. Rather than drawing from a single terroir, this Brunello combines the microclimates of four vineyards into a complex whole: "Caparzo" itself in the north at 220 metres, sandy-clay Pliocene sediments; "La Caduta" in the south-west at 300 metres, loose, stony sandstone-schist; "Il Cassero" in the south at 270 metres, Pliocene sediments with a sandy, stony and schistose matrix; and "San Piero-Caselle" in the east at 250 metres, sandy-clayey.

With around two grams of residual sugar, this high-quality spumante from the Alta Langa, which was produced using the champagne method, is a particularly dry representative of its kind. The Chardonnay grapes come from clay and limestone terroir around 450 metres above sea level in the small municipality of Neviglie. Fresh and floral on the nose with beautiful citrus and subtle yeast notes. Fine perlage, harmonious on the palate with a fine creaminess and a multi-layered finish. SUPERIORE.DE

As early as 1716, Grand Duke Cosimo III included Valdarno di Sopra in his edict, alongside Chianti Classico, Carmignano and Pomino; the appellation itself was not established until 2011. Il Borro lies on the right bank of the Arno between Florence and Arezzo, and it is here that the Sangiovese matures in an ancient form of ageing: clay amphorae. The vines are organically cultivated on the estate, and the grapes are harvested by hand into 10-kilo crates. Fermentation takes place in the amphorae, where the cap of pomace is stirred by hand five to six times a day; the wine remains on the skins for eleven months. It is then aged for twelve months in the bottle. In the 2021 vintage, rain at the end of August ensured full ripeness, following a mild winter, a cool spring and an average summer.

In the Val di Noto, where the lime-white bagli of Tenuta Zisola are enthroned between almond trees and olive groves, one of the most extraordinary tributes to the history of the Mazzei family is being created. Effe Emme – two letters sewn into a customised wine like precious initials, bear the name of one of the most fascinating pioneers of modern times: Filippo Mazzei. On the limestone-rich soils of Noto, at an altitude of 130 metres in a south-easterly exposure, the unique characteristics of the terroir meet a rare grape variety: Petit Verdot in absolute purity. This French variety, which has found a new home here in the south of Sicily, is hand-picked at the end of September and fermented at 28-30°C, followed by a 14-day maceration. The Effe Emme is matured for around 16 months in 225 Liters French oak barrels.

Behind Noà is Cusumano's vision of a Sicilian red wine of international calibre, rooted in the barren highlands of Presti e Pegni near Monreale. Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon and Nero d'Avola thrive on calcareous, stony soils at an altitude of around 300 metres – a place where the heat of the day and the coolness of the night allow a precise interplay of ripeness and freshness. In the glass, Noà is a dark ruby colour with violet hues. The bouquet reveals a complex composition of ripe blackcurrants, sour cherries, blackberries and dried plums, underpinned by notes of espresso, cedar wood, tobacco and dark cocoa. Powerful and structured on the palate with velvety tannins, a supple texture and the characteristic depth that comes from the volcanic terroir and the barrique-aged composition. The final is long, with hints of liquorice, herbs and mineral spice.

Kyè – Piedmontese for "chi è?", who is that? The question says it all. Freisa was once one of Piedmont's most important grape varieties, but then it fell into obscurity, supplanted by Nebbiolo, Barbera and Dolcetto. It is no coincidence that Aldo Vajra, of all people, took it seriously again in 1980: in 2004, genetic research confirmed what the old winegrowers had long suspected – Freisa is Nebbiolo's closest relative, and is thought to be one of its parent varieties. The Vajras have been bottling a dry Freisa since 1989 and have thereby sparked a renaissance that is now setting a precedent. The grapes for the Kyè come from Aldo's own selezione massal dating from 1980, planted in San Ponzio at the lower edge of the legendary Bricco delle Viole – the vineyard closest to the estate. Fermentation takes place in stainless steel, after which the wine matures for 26 months in large Slavonian oak barrels.

La Fabriseria comes across as an elegant, medium-bodied Amarone. Its intensity, tannin structure and density are hard to beat in this price range. Very juicy on the palate, full-bodied and soft, with notes of cherries, cardamom and cloves. And always with the elegant seriousness of the Tedeschi family's great flagship of the same name. SUPERIORE.DE

Since 1957, the Ghezzi family has been managing the extensive estate on the south-western slope of Montalcino – covering a total area of 530 hectares, 50 of which are planted exclusively with Sangiovese Grosso, on clay-limestone soils containing silt and fossil inclusions. From this sunny, warm site on the Ombrone river emerges a Brunello that combines the vigour of the south with the elegance of careful clone selection. 20 to 30 days of maceration, fermentation at 26–28 °C, followed by 24 months in oak barrels and a full year of bottle ageing. The 2021 vintage is regarded as a classic, great 'annata': late frosts in April significantly reduced yields, whilst a warm but never overheated summer and two timely August rains brought the grapes to full, slow phenolic ripeness.

For over 60 years, the Produttori del Barbaresco have stood for an uncompromising commitment to quality, supported by over 50 winegrowers who contribute their finest grapes from Barbaresco, Neive and Treiso to the cooperative. The Barbaresco 2022 is a prime example of collective precision and classic style: the Nebbiolo grapes come from selected municipal vineyards, some of which border the crus, on limestone and clay-rich soils. Vinification was carried out using traditional methods: extended maceration, ageing for 24 months in large Slavonian oak barrels, followed by a further period of rest in the bottle.

The world-famous Nussbaumer Gewürztraminer has been a true benchmark for years and is also a wine that impresses with its ageing potential. A bright yellow colour with greenish highlights. Perfectly typical of the variety – complex and deep, yet also lively and fresh with lovely nuances. The bouquet offers a wide range of aromas, from rose blossom to smoke and oriental spices. On the palate, it flows with silky smoothness, velvety and spicy, with a long finish – magnificent! SUPERIORE.DE

In 1996, Elisabetta Geppetti bought a hillside near Pereta. She named it Poggio Valente – the capable hill, the brave hill. A name that says it all. The vineyard lies at 280 metres, facing south-west, on sandy soils over sandstone bedrock with clay interlayers – a terroir that lends the Sangiovese precision and elegance rather than weight and power. Elisabetta wanted something different here: a single-varietal Sangiovese cru in the Burgundian tradition, a wine that speaks of its vineyard and nothing else. In 2014, she took a decisive step: Poggio Valente left the Morellino appellation and has since been classified as Toscana IGT. This is no step backwards – quite the opposite. It is a statement. This wine transcends its designation of origin, and Elisabetta did not want the lack of international recognition associated with an appellation to limit her ambition.

When Brigitte and Bruno Widmer bought the abandoned Brancaia estate near Castellina in Chianti in 1981, nobody could have guessed that this would become one of the defining wineries of modern Tuscany. The very first vintage in 1983 took first place in a blind tasting – the beginning of a success story that daughter Barbara Widmer is continuing today as a qualified Oenologist. The entire winery has been certified organic since 2019, a consistent development of the philosophy that has always applied here: no compromises. The Riserva combines the best Sangiovese lots from both Chianti Classico estates – brancaia in Castellina and Poppi in Radda – supplemented by twenty per cent Merlot. The sites between 230 and 400 metres above sea level bring together different soil structures: Clay in Castellina, sandy loam with a stony skeleton in Radda.

The grapes for this elegant Nebbiolo come from the Ravera di Monforte vineyard, a small plot with limestone and clay soils on the south-eastern slope above the village of Monforte d'Alba. It shares its name with the famous Novello cru, but is distinct in its own right, characterised by stony soils that lend the roots depth and minerality. A brilliant garnet red with a ruby-coloured core. The bouquet opens with clear, youthful fruit: sour cherry, redcurrant and a hint of raspberry, underpinned by violets, dried herbs and a subtle hint of cinnamon. On the palate, the wine is taut and fresh, with precise acidity, ripe tannins and an invigorating, slightly salty finish. An authentic Nebbiolo from the Langhe, which clearly conveys its origin and distinctive character in the glass. SUPERIORE.DE

Since 1995, Le Cupole has been the accessible gateway to the world of the legendary Tenuta di Trinoro, yet at this visionary winery, "accessible" never means compromise. In the Val d'Orcia, where southern Tuscany reveals its wild and unspoilt side, near Sarteano on the border with Umbria and Lazio, the eccentric scion of the Cinzano empire and nephew of the American painter Cy Twombly created a wine paradise at an altitude of 500 to 700 metres, an idea that was initially considered madness. Le Cupole is made from the same Bordeaux blend as the great Tenuta di Trinoro – Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon and Petit Verdot – but comes from younger vines on deeper, less extreme soils. The proportions vary depending on the vintage in order to best reflect the characteristics of the harvest.

Some vineyards come into a family's possession through strategic acquisitions, others through a marriage that unites two Piedmontese families. When Aldo Pola married Luisella from nearby Serracapelli, this union brought together not only two people, but also the Pola family and the cru that is now one of the most sought-after in the municipality of Neive: Serraboella. Here, on medium-textured limestone soils, 300 metres above sea level, Nebbiolo thrives in a style that differs from the powerful Bordini – more reserved in its youth, almost shy, yet possessing an elegance that comes into its own over the years. What Matteo Pola produces from the 30-year-old vines of this single vineyard is a Barbaresco of remarkable harmony – a wine that impresses not through its intensity, but through that crystalline precision that characterises great terroirs.