Bibenda

Back in the 1980s, Antonio Mastroberardino was one of the first to experiment with something that was almost considered a provocation at the time: he vinified Aglianico, the large, tannin-rich red wine variety from southern Italy, as a white wine. He called the result "Plinius". The experiment lay dormant until the family revived it under a new name: Neroametà – "half black" – a tribute to the grape's origins and the courage to think differently. 100% Aglianico, grown in Mirabella Eclano at 400 metres, in deep, sandy-loamy soils with a volcanic matrix and clay at depth – the same terroir that produces the Taurasi DOCG. Hand-picked in mid-October. Then the decisive step: Vinification without any contact with the skins, in steel tanks at a controlled temperature, followed by ten months on the lees and at least 18 months of ageing in the bottle. The colour stays outside – elegance and minerality are allowed inside.

At some point in the past, a small metal plate on the roof of the Castagnedi farmstead in the Monti Garbi moved in the wind – like a flag, a "bandina". A landmark for all those who knew these hills. Today, it is the name of the single vineyard that lies at the heart of the Tenuta. Colognola ai Colli, eastern Valpolicella: calcareous sandy soils at around 300 metres. This is the terroir that has belonged to the four Castagnedi brothers since 1995 and which characterises their wines with a characteristic balsamic: liquorice, white mint, graphite, China. Corvina and Corvinone form the backbone with 70%, Rondinella brings freshness, Croatina and Oseleta the flavour. Hand-picked in October, fermentation at a controlled temperature with certified organic yeasts, natural malo. Then aged for 24 months in 25-hectolitre French oak tonneaux – medium roasted, integrated, never dominant.

Barbera is the backbone of Asti, so to speak. More planted than any other grape variety in the province, more familiar on every table, more accessible than the great Nebbiolo – and yet in the best vineyards it has a depth that refutes any comparison with the simple everyday wine. The Bertolino family has understood this from the very beginning. Le Rocchette is their proof. 100% Barbera with a maximum yield of 80 to 90 quintals per hectare. Hand-picked in the first week of October, processed the same evening. Fermentation in stainless steel tanks at a controlled temperature. Then 18 months in 25-hectolitre French Allier oak barrels, which give the Barbera structure and depth without taking away its characteristic freshness. A further six months in the bottle. The Superiore appellation is not a formality here.

Timorasso is not mainstream, but rather a speciality of Piedmont. With its Derthona, Vite Colte presents a white wine that you rediscover and then prefer to drink again immediately – because it has a different appearance and is captivatingly clear. It has a bright straw yellow colour in the glass, almost fading into gold. Notes of acacia blossom, hawthorn, ripe peach and a hint of honey emerge on the nose – plus a cool shimmer of flint and minerality, which makes everything a little more exciting. On the palate, structure meets juiciness: full-bodied, yet light on the palate thanks to present, fine acidity. There is also a subtle nutty undertone that adds fine depth without becoming dominant. The finish is long, elegant and clears the palate with chalky freshness. SUPERIORE.DE

Zenato’s world-famous Valpolicella Superiore, produced using the Ripasso method, is a rich wine offering excellent value. It is peppery, with earthy and gravelly notes that give way to black cherries and savoury herbs. It reveals deep, silky textures balanced by lively acidity, whilst ripe red and black fruits resonate beneath a hint of lavender. Zenato’s Ripassa is concentrated and intense, yet conveys elegance, leaving a fresh note of violet sweets on the palate that lingers for a long time. SUPERIORE.DE

A modern Maremma-Rosso with a maritime influence: "Tirrenico" combines Cabernet Sauvignon with Merlot, Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot – all internationally influenced grape varieties that find their very own expression here on the Tuscan coast. Despite the warm vintage, the 2022 is balanced and clearly structured. Dark ruby in the glass with violet reflections. Ripe blackcurrant, plum, some graphite, herbal spice and a hint of eucalyptus on the nose. Juicy on the palate, with present, ripe fruit, fine-grained tannins and a fresh, mineral finish. The ageing in barriques adds depth without dominating. A powerful yet elegant red with a Tuscan soul and international stature. SUPERIORE.DE

In the western heart of Chianti Classico, between Florence and Siena, lie the four historic vineyards of Castello di Monsanto: Il Poggio, Scanni, Il Mulino and Il Salcio. On 72 hectares between 280 and 320 metres above sea level, surrounded by a Mediterranean biotope of cypresses, junipers, brooms and strawberry trees, predominantly Sangiovese vines thrive on the characteristic Galestro soils – the slate-like rock that gives the wines depth and powerful characteristics. The Bianchi family has consistently favoured the quality of Sangiovese for over 60 years and created the first Chianti Classico cru in 1962 with Il Poggio. The Annata is made from a selection of grapes from the younger vineyards, which are particularly suitable for ageing in large Slavonian oak barrels. 90% Sangiovese is complemented by 10% Canaiolo and Colorino – a classic blend that combines freshness and accessibility with the characteristic depth of the Monsanto terroir.

Here is one of the finest expressions of the white Carricante grape variety, aged on the fine lees for six months. Alta Mora Bianco comes from vineyards on the northern slopes of Mount Etna, where Carricante vines thrive at altitudes of 600 to 900 metres – directly on volcanic rock rich in minerals and ash. The cool altitude, combined with intense sunshine and significant day-night temperature variations, imbues this wine with an unmistakable freshness, structure and salty tension. The wine is aged exclusively in stainless steel to ensure that the purity of the grape variety and the terroir is conveyed unadulterated in the glass.

There are no fixed rules at Zýmē, only the pursuit of experimentation to offer a unique and honest experience that also conveys the character of each individual vintage. Il Bianco From Black to White (sealed with a glass cork) opens with a golden colour and a whitish sheen typical of grapes that have no skin contact. The predominant grape variety is Rondinella Bianca, a mutation that was only discovered by chance in the vineyards of Zýmē and is unique in Italy.

While the whole world was talking about the extinction of Trebbiano di Soave, the three Tessari sisters set out on a mission: to save an almost forgotten grape variety. In collaboration with Professor Attilio Scienza from the University of Milan, they selected the best clones of old Trebbiano vines and planted the Massifitti vineyard in 2006 – named after the "dense rocks", the large, compact basalt boulders that characterise the south-facing slope. Only two hectares at an altitude of 300 metres, where the volcanic minerality shows itself in its purest form. What is produced here is unique: probably the only single-varietal Trebbiano di Soave in the world. It matures for 15 months in stainless steel on the fine lees, then a further 12 months in the bottle before the sisters release it.

In the hills between Macerata and Ancona, Bisci's red wines are made from the modest 1.5 hectares of Sangiovese and Merlot that have complemented the portfolio of the legendary Verdicchio specialists since the very beginning. The Villa Castiglioni 2019 combines 80% Sangiovese with 20% Merlot in a sophisticated cuvée that expresses the warm terroir of the Marche region. After manual harvesting, the wine is macerated for 15 days in stainless steel tanks at a controlled temperature with daily pumping over, followed by twelve months of ageing partly in oak barrels and partly in steel.

I Giganti Bianco combines Vernaccia and Vermentino, carefully composed and matured in stainless steel and for seven months in tonneaux on the fine lees. A technical decision that lends substance to the structure without masking the vibrant freshness. Brilliant straw yellow with a delicate golden shimmer – even the light has a differentiated and lively effect. A complex bouquet unfolds on the nose: white spices, camomile and macchia flavours emerge, resting on a base of freshness and elegance. The palate follows with a clear, delicate texture: taut fruit, salty minerality and a lively acidity – all kept in balance. The finish is lingering, finely flavoured and with finesse.

According to legend, the River Dirillo, near the Dorilli estate, is said to be the site where Aeneas landed on his odyssey from Troy. Whether this is true cannot be proven. What can be proven, however, is that this area, nestled between the southern coast and the Iblean Mountains, has an extraordinary history of winegrowing. Dorilli is the quintessence of Cerasuolo di Vittoria Classico – the highest tier of this unique Sicilian DOCG. Planeta vinifies it from carefully selected vines at the estate of the same name in Acate: 70% Nero d'Avola, 30% Frappato di Vittoria, grown on the characteristic loose red sand with a layer of tuff that defines the terroir of Vittoria from within. Organically farmed according to the SOStain protocol.

Efeso is probably the most elegant white wine produced by Librandi – a single-varietal Mantonico, an old Calabrian grape variety with a long history and great potential. The grapes come from high-altitude, well-ventilated vineyards around Strongoli, where the warmth of the south meets the freshness of the night and ripening is slow and controlled. The wine is matured in barriques with regular bâtonnage – a deliberately Burgundian approach for an indigenous wine.

"Il Repertorio" - "The Register". The names of Gerardo Giuratrabocchetti's wines are reminiscent of his father's world as a notary.

Felsina's single-varietal Sangiovese wines have been produced on the south-eastern edge of the Chianti Classico since 1967. The vineyards face south-west on ventilated slopes between 320 and 420 metres above sea level on geologically heterogeneous soils of quartz-rich sandstone, calcareous Alberese and clay. After hand-picking in the first three weeks of October, temperature-controlled fermentation takes place between 28-30°C with intensive maceration in stainless steel tanks for 12-15 days. Ageing lasts twelve months, mainly in traditional Slavonian oak barrels of medium size, supplemented by a small proportion of used barriques.

A Carignano that stays – in the glass, in the memory and in the terroir. Is Solinas is the creamy, smoky expression of one of the southernmost wines in Europe, precisely moulded from 100% Carignano del Sulcis. Smooth extraction, controlled fermentation and around one year of ageing in French barriques – this creates a dense texture without losing its freshness. Deep ruby colour with a violet sheen in the glass. The nose opens with intense, ripe aromas: blackcurrant, ripe plum and fine jam notes, accompanied by balsamic herbs, liquorice and a hint of aromatic spice. The wine remains warm and juicy on the palate, with velvety tannins and a harmonious flow. The fruit is dense, the acidity provides balance – and the mineral note carries the long, spicy finish into the memory. Is Solinas is powerful, but never loud. A Riserva with a strong character that carries time and the island within it – it has a large profile, an elegant demeanour and a sensual and clear expression. SUPERIORE.DE

2021 was a year with an ideal vegetation balance in Abruzzo: cool springs, a sunny but not overheated summer and healthy, late-picked grapes. This organic Riserva is traditionally vinified and matures for around 18 months in large wooden barrels and barriques. Deep ruby colour with a light purple hue in the glass. Juicy black cherry, blackcurrant, dried herbs, liquorice and a hint of dark chocolate on the nose. On the palate, it is denser and more structured than the previous vintage - with fine tannins, fresh acidity and a long, spicy finish. A Riserva with a clear line and great inner balance. SUPERIORE.DE

This rare Riserva comes from the Garofoli family's historic vineyards in Montecarotto – a selection of the purest Verdicchio grapes from the classic hills of the Castelli di Jesi. For five generations, the family has been cultivating the noble Verdicchio grape on these medium-textured loamy soils with sandy and calcareous inclusions. The lowest yields per hectare and the latest possible hand-harvesting guarantee the highest concentration for this top-quality wine.