Bibenda

There are no fixed rules at Zýmē, only the pursuit of experimentation to offer a unique and honest experience that also conveys the character of each individual vintage. Il Bianco From Black to White (sealed with a glass cork) opens with a golden colour and a whitish sheen typical of grapes that have no skin contact. The predominant grape variety is Rondinella Bianca, a mutation that was only discovered by chance in the vineyards of Zýmē and is unique in Italy.

While the whole world was talking about the extinction of Trebbiano di Soave, the three Tessari sisters set out on a mission: to save an almost forgotten grape variety. In collaboration with Professor Attilio Scienza from the University of Milan, they selected the best clones of old Trebbiano vines and planted the Massifitti vineyard in 2006 – named after the "dense rocks", the large, compact basalt boulders that characterise the south-facing slope. Only two hectares at an altitude of 300 metres, where the volcanic minerality shows itself in its purest form. What is produced here is unique: probably the only single-varietal Trebbiano di Soave in the world. It matures for 15 months in stainless steel on the fine lees, then a further 12 months in the bottle before the sisters release it.

In the hills between Macerata and Ancona, Bisci's red wines are made from the modest 1.5 hectares of Sangiovese and Merlot that have complemented the portfolio of the legendary Verdicchio specialists since the very beginning. The Villa Castiglioni 2019 combines 80% Sangiovese with 20% Merlot in a sophisticated cuvée that expresses the warm terroir of the Marche region. After manual harvesting, the wine is macerated for 15 days in stainless steel tanks at a controlled temperature with daily pumping over, followed by twelve months of ageing partly in oak barrels and partly in steel.

I Giganti Bianco combines Vernaccia and Vermentino, carefully composed and matured in stainless steel and for seven months in tonneaux on the fine lees. A technical decision that lends substance to the structure without masking the vibrant freshness. Brilliant straw yellow with a delicate golden shimmer – even the light has a differentiated and lively effect. A complex bouquet unfolds on the nose: white spices, camomile and macchia flavours emerge, resting on a base of freshness and elegance. The palate follows with a clear, delicate texture: taut fruit, salty minerality and a lively acidity – all kept in balance. The finish is lingering, finely flavoured and with finesse.

According to tradition, the River Dirillo, near the Dorilli estate, is said to be the legendary landing place of Aeneas on his odyssey from Troy. Whether this is true cannot be proven. What can be proven, however, is that this area, situated between the southern coast and the Iblean Mountains, has an extraordinary history of wine-growing. Dorilli is the quintessence of Cerasuolo di Vittoria Classico – the highest tier of this unique Sicilian DOCG. Planeta produces it from carefully selected vines at the estate of the same name in Acate: 70% Nero d'Avola, 30% Frappato di Vittoria, grown on the characteristic loose red sand with a layer of tuff that defines the terroir of Vittoria from within. Organically farmed according to the SOStain protocol.

Efeso is probably the most elegant white wine produced by Librandi – a single-varietal Mantonico, an old Calabrian grape variety with a long history and great potential. The grapes come from high-altitude, well-ventilated vineyards around Strongoli, where the warmth of the south meets the freshness of the night and ripening is slow and controlled. The wine is matured in barriques with regular bâtonnage – a deliberately Burgundian approach for an indigenous wine.

"Il Repertorio" - "The Register". The names of Gerardo Giuratrabocchetti's wines are reminiscent of his father's world as a notary.

It took seven years and 35 purchase agreements to bring together the scattered parcels of Montebruna. When they succeeded, the joy was so great that the Bolognas invited artists, poets and musicians to give voice and verse to this vineyard. "Una terra che parla" – a land that speaks – they called the project. And indeed, anyone who drinks Montebruna hears Rocchetta Tanaro speak. The vines are rooted in Braida's heartland, 100% Barbera from their own vineyards. Two weeks of maceration in temperature-controlled steel, then a year of ageing in large oak barrels – classic, without barrique dominance.

Felsina's single-varietal Sangiovese wines have been produced on the south-eastern edge of the Chianti Classico region since 1967. The vineyards, facing south-west, stretch across well-ventilated slopes at altitudes of between 320 and 420 metres on geologically diverse soils comprising quartz-rich sandstone, calcareous Alberese and clay. Following hand-picking in the first three weeks of October, temperature-controlled fermentation takes place at 28–30°C with intensive maceration in stainless steel tanks for 12–15 days. Ageing lasts twelve months, predominantly in traditional medium-sized Slavonian oak barrels, supplemented by a small proportion of used barriques. 

A Carignano that stays – in the glass, in the memory and in the terroir. Is Solinas is the creamy, smoky expression of one of the southernmost wines in Europe, precisely moulded from 100% Carignano del Sulcis. Smooth extraction, controlled fermentation and around one year of ageing in French barriques – this creates a dense texture without losing its freshness. Deep ruby colour with a violet sheen in the glass. The nose opens with intense, ripe aromas: blackcurrant, ripe plum and fine jam notes, accompanied by balsamic herbs, liquorice and a hint of aromatic spice. The wine remains warm and juicy on the palate, with velvety tannins and a harmonious flow. The fruit is dense, the acidity provides balance – and the mineral note carries the long, spicy finish into the memory. Is Solinas is powerful, but never loud. A Riserva with a strong character that carries time and the island within it – it has a large profile, an elegant demeanour and a sensual and clear expression. SUPERIORE.DE

2021 was a year with an ideal vegetation balance in Abruzzo: cool springs, a sunny but not overheated summer and healthy, late-picked grapes. This organic Riserva is traditionally vinified and matures for around 18 months in large wooden barrels and barriques. Deep ruby colour with a light purple hue in the glass. Juicy black cherry, blackcurrant, dried herbs, liquorice and a hint of dark chocolate on the nose. On the palate, it is denser and more structured than the previous vintage - with fine tannins, fresh acidity and a long, spicy finish. A Riserva with a clear line and great inner balance. SUPERIORE.DE

In 1987, Castello Romitorio was not yet a winery. Just a castle, an artist and an idea. Sandro Chia bought grapes from his friend and cellar master Franco Martini and had the first wine vinified – even before a single vine of his own had ripened. That was the Romitorio: not a reaction, but an attitude. Today it grows at Tenuta Ghiaccio Forte in Scansano, 25 kilometres from the Tyrrhenian Sea, at an altitude of 170 metres. The soils are of Pliocene origin – galestro, clay, Alberese, interspersed with fossils and shell remains, remnants of a primeval seabed. Petit Verdot and Syrah give the wine its profile: fermentation in steel, ageing in cement and oak.

This rare Riserva comes from the Garofoli family's historic vineyards in Montecarotto – a selection of the purest Verdicchio grapes from the classic hills of the Castelli di Jesi. For five generations, the family has been cultivating the noble Verdicchio grape on these medium-textured loamy soils with sandy and calcareous inclusions. The lowest yields per hectare and the latest possible hand-harvesting guarantee the highest concentration for this top-quality wine.

With this exceptional Chianti Classico Riserva, the Mazzei family pays tribute to their famous ancestor, Ser Lapo, in whose writings the name "Chianti" is mentioned for the very first time. The upper part of the label features a faithful reproduction of one of his writings (dated 1398) in beautiful calligraphy. "Do not worry about the cost of this wine, even though it was expensive: its quality will more than make up for it."

Volpaia – the foxhole. High above Radda in Chianti, at 450 to 650 metres above sea level, the vineyards of Castello di Volpaia are located on the highest slopes of the appellation. The medieval borgo, first mentioned in a document in 1172, has belonged to the Mascheroni-Stianti family since 1966, who consistently farm organically here. The altitude shapes the character: sandstone soils, cool nights and long ripening periods give the Sangiovese (supplemented by 10% Merlot) a freshness and elegance that would be hard to achieve in warmer locations. Fermented with indigenous yeasts, matured for twelve months in large oak barrels.

Pinot Grigio from South Tyrol – this is in a different league to many of the pleasing mass-produced wines from the Veneto. At Tiefenbrunner, the grapes come from selected hillside vineyards south of Margreid and in Kurtatsch, at an altitude of 220 to 400 metres, facing south to south-east. Calcareous soils and the typical South Tyrolean interplay of warm days and cool Alpine nights give the wine its characterful minerality. Ageing in large wooden barrels on the fine lees gives this Pinot Gris its special texture – round and elegant at the same time, with a creamy finish without masking the fruit.

The name comes from the Middle Ages: the "grosso agontano" was one of the most important silver coins in Italy, minted by the Maritime Republic of Ancona in the 13th century. A coin for trade routes, for trust, for value. Garofoli did not choose this name by chance – it sets the standard for their most important red wine. It only appears in the best years. Then, when the harvest in the Piancarda vineyard – within the Monte Conero nature reserve, on calcareous clay soil – the quality that justifies the DOCG classification. 100% Montepulciano, hand-picked, 10 to 15 days of maceration for maximum depth of colour and tannin structure, followed by malolactic fermentation. Maturation: 18 months in barriques, then more than 12 months in the bottle.

In 1872, Bettino Ricasoli wrote down his famous formula – the blueprint of what Chianti Classico should be: Sangiovese as the heart, structure as the backbone, terroir as the argument. The fact that his descendants have named this wine after him is not nostalgia. It is a commitment. Brolio Bettino is a single-varietal Sangiovese – and that is intentional. No blending, no corrective. The grapes grow on five geological formations: Sandstone, Galestro, Alberese, marine sediments and old river terraces – a terroir mosaic that combines depth and complexity in one glass. Fermentation in small stainless steel tanks, 18 months of ageing in large barrels: classic, without compromise. The 2022 vintage was capricious – mild winter, dry spring, a hailstorm in July, but it ended on a mild note.

Sodale presents Merlot in its purest and, at the same time, most charming form: this single-varietal wine is grown on limestone-rich hillsides around Montefiascone – where the cool evening air enhances its sophistication and elegance. In the glass, it is a luminous ruby red with a slight violet rim. The bouquet entices with aromas of blackcurrant, ripe plum, dark cherry and a hint of floral violet notes, underpinned by delicate herbal undertones. On the palate, it is juicy and harmonious, with velvety tannins, sustained fruit sweetness and a lively texture. The subtle acidity lends freshness and makes it a pleasure to drink, whilst the elegant, spicy finish leaves you wanting more. Not an opulent statement, but a stylish Merlot with balance, drinkability and character. Authentic, charming and quintessentially Cotarella. SUPERIORE.DE

F for Falò – bonfire. The name alludes to the traditional bonfires lit in Salento at the winter solstice. Cantine San Marzano has dedicated a single-varietal Negroamaro to this custom, which emphasises the dark, intense character of this indigenous grape variety. The grapes grow on the limestone-rich, iron-oxide-rich soils between San Marzano di San Giuseppe and Sava. Following hand-picking, the grapes undergo extended maceration, followed by twelve months' ageing in Caucasian oak barrels – an unusual choice of wood that lends the wine its own distinctive aromatic signature.

Nerello Mascalese is known as the protagonist of the elegant Etna red wines – but as a rosato, this noble grape variety has a fascination all of its own. Benanti vinifies it as a single variety from the south-eastern slope of the volcano, where the vines are rooted in mineral-rich volcanic sands at an altitude of 500 to 700 metres. The grapes are harvested by hand at the beginning of October from vines on trellises that are on average 25 years old. After twelve hours of cold maceration, the grapes are gently pressed; only 65% of the must is transferred to the stainless steel tank. Ten days of fermentation at a controlled temperature with the winery's own Etna yeast, followed by maturation on the fine lees and two to three months of rest in the bottle.