Bibenda

Cortona is only thirty kilometres from Montepulciano – and yet it is a different world. Here, on the high plateau with its dense Pliocene clays and iron oxide soils, around 300 metres above sea level, Merlot grows as if it had never been at home anywhere else. Federico Carletti recognised the potential early on – and In Violas was created in 2006. This was catalysed by his friendship with the Aliotti Tommasi family, owners of the same land. A Merlot that Carletti himself calls "con un'anima toscana". With a Tuscan soul. 100% Merlot, certified organic, 5,600 vines per hectare. Hand-picked, careful selection in the vineyard and in the cellar, fermentation and maceration in conical vats for 18 to 22 days, ageing in large oak barrels.

Sessantanni – sixty years. The age of the gnarled bush vines that take root in the iron-rich terra rossa soils of San Marzano and Sava, trained using the traditional Alberello method. This training method, in which the vines grow low to the ground without wire trellises, is labour-intensive, but protects the grapes from the scorching Apulian sun and naturally limits yields – to around 3,000 kilograms per hectare. With the Sessantanni, Cantine San Marzano has created a label that has significantly shaped the international perception of Apulian wines. The fully ripe grapes are harvested by hand at the end of September. 80% of the must is macerated for 18 days, whilst the remaining 20% is macerated for 25 days to ensure maximum extraction. Vinification takes place using indigenous yeasts, followed by twelve months' ageing in French and American oak barrels.

The cork oaks still grow today on the hills of Gavorrano – silent, gnarled, steadfast. They gave this wine its name: "Le Sughere": the cork oaks. A tribute to the landscape that sustains and shapes this estate, long before a Renzo Piano wine cellar was carved into the rock here. The wine itself is Rocca di Frassinello's second label – and what Oenologist Alessandro Cellai might call the heart of the estate: not the grand gesture, not the entry-level wine, but the essence. Sangioveto, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot – the same trio found throughout the estate, the same philosophy of blending Tuscany and Bordeaux. But here, for the first time, oak comes into play. Twelve months in partly new barriques, then nine months in the bottle: patience as a method.

Anyone who knows Amarone knows it from the history of Recioto. According to tradition, Italy's most famous red wine was created by chance: a Recioto that was fermented too long in the barrel – until none of the sweetness remained. What began as a mistake became a legend. But the Recioto itself, the older of the two, was almost forgotten. Wrongly so. In Valpolicella Classico, the upper, wide-open wings of the grape panicles are called "Recie" – ears. It is these wings that hang the highest, are most exposed to the sun and ripen the most. They are carefully selected for the Recioto and harvested by hand – at the end of September, when the season has reached its peak in the hills of Marano di Valpolicella on calcareous Eocene soils between 200 and 350 metres.

A wine that made history. When the first vintage of La Selvanella Riserva was presented in 1969, it was a revolution in Chianti Classico – the very first cru from a single vineyard in the entire region. Today, over 50 years later, this Sangiovese classic is still regarded as a benchmark for the elegance and purity of the Radda terroirs. The 50 hectares of the La Selvanella vineyard sit at an altitude of 350 to 550 metres above Radda in Chianti in one of the most privileged positions in the entire region. Wines of exceptional structure and lively acidity are produced here. The perfect south-west exposure and the temperate continental climate create ideal conditions for the capricious Sangiovese to develop its full aromatic complexity.

In 1987, there were still 0.5 hectares of Timorasso in the whole of Piedmont. The grape variety, once widespread in the hills south-east of Turin, had almost disappeared due to phylloxera, structural change and lack of interest. Walter Massa rescued it – and brought it back into the dialogue. Giorgio Rivetti from La Spinetta, whose eye for exceptional terroirs has made his company great, recognised the potential and planted in Montemarzino, Montegioco and Monleale. Derthona – the ancient Roman name for Tortona, the capital of these hills – became the name of the wine. 100% Timorasso, south-west and south-east facing vineyards, organic cultivation. Destemming, gentle pressing, fermentation in temperature-controlled small stainless steel tanks. Then seven months on the fine lees – no malolactic fermentation, the acidity remains naturally lively. Four months in the bottle before release.

"A quei tempi era sempre festa" – back then there was always a party. Thus begins Cesare Pavese's novel "La bella estate", written in 1940 and awarded the Premio Strega in 1950, a tale about those fleeting summers of youth when anything seems possible. It is no coincidence that Vite Colte named its Moscato Passito after this work: the Barolo cooperative has dedicated several of its wines to Piedmontese Liters– "La Luna e i Falò", also a Pavese title, adorns their award-winning Barbera d'Asti. It is a nod to their homeland, to the landscape of hills and mist that Pavese described so unmistakably.

Deep, rich ruby colour. Impressive nose of ripe berries, ripe cherries and delicate graphite nuances. Aromatic and extremely flavoursome on the palate, with a spicy, animating arc. Fine tannins. Well-balanced with a gentle structure that frames the palate until the lively finish. A true Tuscan insider tip with a great value. SUPERIORE.DE

Passopisciaro, where the estate is situated, is a land of antiquity: some of Italy's oldest vineyards are found here, some over a hundred years old and still growing on their own roots. This wine comes from young vines that have yet to prove themselves: pure Nerello Mascalese grown as bush vines, organically cultivated, facing north at an altitude of 700 metres on Mount Etna, Europe's highest volcano. Animaetnea aims to convey the soul of Etna through its wines; this is the project's guiding principle. Fermentation and maceration together last 14 days at a controlled temperature, after which the wine rests for a year in a stainless-steel tank and, following bottling, for a further three months.

Tasting the Riserva from Fattoria del Cerro takes you stylistically to those higher vineyard sites where fossil-rich soils full of pebbles and ancient shell remains lend the Prugnolo Gentile a special mineral depth. The crowning glory of the Montepulciano hierarchy is created from these favoured plots – a wine that requires time and patience to reveal its multi-layered nature. After careful selection, the wine undergoes 18 months of refinement, combining tradition and innovation: Eight months in French barriques and tonneaux, followed by a further twelve to sixteen months in large wooden barrels. This combination creates a character of remarkable elegance and the wood integrates seamlessly without overshadowing the varietal fruit. A final twelve months of maturation in the bottle completes the harmonious development.

Riserva does not simply mean more time in Gracciano. It means different soil. The Maramai and Podere Rovisci crus provide the grape material for this wine – and Rovisci is the core of the whole: heavy clay content, brooding, water-retaining, with a ripening dynamic that elicits the densest, most concentrated side of the Prugnolo Gentile. Vines, some of which have been planted since 1970. 300 to 350 metres, south to south-east exposure, 30 hectolitres per hectare – consistently limited yields. Only in the best vintages does the della Seta Ferrari Corbelli Greco family decide to bottle a Riserva. 2021 was such a year. Prugnolo Gentile 90%, Merlot 10%. Fermentation with indigenous yeasts, 20 to 25 days of maceration in steel. Then aged for 24 months: the first twelve in French tonneaux of 3.5 and 5 hectolitres, the second twelve in large Slavonian oak barrels. Subsequent maturation in the bottle for at least six months.

"Place of the snakes". The name Serpara sounds menacing, but is actually a tribute: snakes seek warmth, sunshine and mild temperatures, even in the coldest months. And this is exactly what describes the single vineyard Serpara in the municipality of Maschito – a vineyard with a sunny exposure that never really knows winter, even in winter. At 550 metres above sea level, on a volcanic hillside, lie 6 hectares, half of which are planted with Aglianico vines over 40 years old. The black imperial eagle of the Swabians adorns the label – a legacy of the imperial claim that once shaped this land.

Palazzotto is the name of the two hectares of vineyard where only Cabernet Sauvignon is grown. Fausto Maculan vinifies a fine wine from these grapes. A spicy start in the glass: cedar wood and ground ginger give way to dusty roses and redcurrants. It's elegant yet refined, with creamy textures lifted by vibrant acidity, while a wave of mineral-tinged wild berries lightly wash over the palate. Leaves a tart note of citrus and raspberry and subtle, grippy tannins that frame the wine without slowing its momentum. Although already showing very well now, this beautifully balanced version of Palazzotto should improve even more with medium-term cellaring. SUPERIORE.DE

Enzo Barbi produces just 3,500 bottles of this delicious Sauvignon Bianco each year. It rises from the glass with a lovely freshness, whilst a delicate wave of lemongrass, chalk dust and sweet custard fills the senses. On the palate, it flows with a silky texture and ripe, citrus-kissed fruit notes, accompanied by a lively acidity. A hint of mint leaves and green peas lingers in the classically dry finish, whilst L'Inquisitore ends on a remarkably lively note with a slight mineral bite. This exceptionally lovely Sauvignon Bianco from Umbria makes a rather light-footed first impression, but leaves a lasting impact. SUPERIORE.DE

Il Bacialé – in dialect "matchmaker" – brings together grape varieties that normally rarely meet: Barbera, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc. The grapes come from selected plots in the heart of Monferrato, whose gentle hills give the vines warmth and depth. After fermentation, the wine matures in wood, which gives it structure, finesse and good ageing potential. A successful liaison that marries tradition and international class in a pleasing way.

Maroccoli, some four hundred metres above sea level near Sambuca di Sicilia – where limestone interbedded with sandy layers forms the bedrock and cool night-time air from the sea lends finesse, whilst the days are bathed in Sicilian sunshine. Diego Planeta realised early on that Syrah could be more than just an international variety on this island: an ode to the Mediterranean light, to the dry heat and the barren soil that forces the vine to fight for survival. The microfauna here is extremely active; the vines must fight for their water – and in return, they produce grapes of exceptional ripeness and concentration.

An Etna Rosso with a clear vision: Ghiaia Nera is the introduction to the volcanic world of Tenuta Tascante – straightforward, elegant and characterised by the dramatic tension of the volcano. The grapes come from various locations on the north side of Mount Etna, around Randazzo and Castiglione di Sicilia. Volcanic sand, high altitude and large temperature differences characterise the style. It is traditionally matured in large wooden barrels. Brilliant ruby red colour with garnet hues in the glass. The nose opens with ripe cherry, dried raspberry, some orange zest and fine herbal notes. Juicy on the palate, with fresh acidity and a fine-grained tannin reminiscent of black tea. A wine with precision and cool noblesse, not a powerhouse, but a finely drawn red wine that clearly emphasises its origins. SUPERIORE.DE

Dievole's new Chianti Classico Casanova, just released with the debut 2020 vintage, is the result of a quest to highlight the identity characteristics of particularly suitable vineyards, leading to ever more precise expressions of Sangiovese. The Casanova grapes come from a vineyard at an altitude of about 400 metres, with an ideal south-west to south-east exposure and composed mainly of sandstone rocks Macigno del Chianti. The result is a Chianti Classico that is very immediate and direct, with a beautiful acidity to boot. It has the elegance and freshness and the bright, radiant fruit of Chianti Classico "as it used to be".

Dievoles Chianti Classico Petrignano is the result of a commitment to highlighting the distinctive characteristics of particularly well-suited vineyards, leading to ever more precise expressions of the Sangiovese grape. Petrignano is the name given to a distinctive area characterised by mineral- and stone-rich soil. At an altitude of approximately 330 metres, rocks protrude from the ground, typical of the geological formation of Monte Morello. The abundance of stones, the depth of the roots and the compact growth of the vines result in an expressive and opulent wine from this distinctive and authentic cru site.