Bibenda

Centovie is coming together. After the Pecorino kicked things off, the Rosato followed – and finally, in 2015, the Montepulciano. The Bernetti family describes it as "a wine that did not exist before and which seeks no imitation". A personal, bespoke interpretation of a grape variety and a landscape. The estate lies 200 metres above Roseto degli Abruzzi, facing south-east, between the Gran Sasso and the Adriatic Sea. Clay-sandy limestone soil with an alluvial skeleton, organically farmed from day one. The Montepulciano is grown using two training systems: "Tendone" with long pruning and "Filare" with short spurs, at a density of 1,600 to 5,000 vines per hectare.

Dievoles Chianti Classico Catignano is the result of the endeavour to highlight the identity characteristics of particularly suitable vineyards, leading to ever more precise expressions of Sangiovese. Catignano is a plateau at 370 metres above sea level, with vineyards of different ages and a large proportion of Alberese. The exposure is westerly and south-easterly, which means plenty of sun during the day, but also cold temperatures at night, with a good temperature range that favours the aromatic development of the grapes.

A classic from the Collio region, masterfully interpreted: Livio Felluga's Pinot Grigio impresses with its depth, precision and expression of terroir. The vines are rooted in the famous "Flysch di Cormòns" – calcareous marl and sandstone formations that lend the wine its subtle minerality. In the glass, it is a luminous straw yellow with golden highlights. The aroma is delicate and complex: white peaches, ripe pears and a hint of citrus zest, complemented by floral notes and a touch of toasted hazelnut. On the palate, it is dry, supple and well-structured, with well-integrated acidity and an elegant finish. This is no run-of-the-mill summer wine, but a Pinot Grigio to be taken seriously, with substance, which clearly benefits from the estate's style – unpretentious, clear and with fine depth. SUPERIORE.DE

When a woman who brought Valpolicella wines to the world as "Lady Amarone" acquires a vineyard in Montalcino in 2007, it is not to repeat the tried and tested, but to break new ground – but to break new ground. Marilisa Allegrini, the first Italian woman on the cover of Wine Spectator and named "Cavaliere del Lavoro" in 2020, now runs San Polo together with her daughters Carlotta and Caterina. The estate is located on the south-eastern flank of the hill, in Podernovi, at an altitude of around 450 metres – where the extinct volcano Monte Amiata protects the vineyards from hot winds and has left behind pyroclastic soils that give the Sangiovese an unmistakable mineral signature.

A Catarratto with character: Beleda comes from organically farmed vineyards near Alcamo, where cool nights and the proximity to the sea give the wine freshness and flavour. The wine is matured for around eight months in stainless steel tanks, with a few months resting on the fine lees – for structure, subtle fullness and elegance. Pale straw yellow in the glass with a silvery-green sheen. The nose opens with white flowers, citrus fruit, green apple and a fine salty note. On the palate, the vintage is lively, balanced and has a pleasantly juicy texture. The fruit remains subtle, the minerality dominates – a Sicilian white wine with a clear style and refreshing drinkability. Ideal with seafood, grilled vegetables or young/medium-aged sheep's milk cheeses. SUPERIORE.DE

A volcanic goddess is depicted on the label. Her delicate colours reflect the shades found around the smoking crater of Europe's highest active volcano – an ancient, mighty and feminine deity, just as the locals call Mount Etna: la Montagna. Sul Vulcano is Donnafugata's declaration of love for this mountain. The Rallo family, rooted in Marsala for generations, has made its mark on the northern slopes of Etna: 18 hectares of vineyards, spread across six contrade between Randazzo at 750 metres and Castiglione di Sicilia at 730 metres – Etna DOC, Sicily's very first Denomination of Controlled Origin. The soil is of volcanic origin, made fertile by the "sciare" – the ancient lava flows that, through long geochemical processes, produced sandy, cultivable soil. The vines are planted on dry-stone terraces, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, alternating between the "Controspalliera" training system and the traditional "Alberello" method.

The Turmhof Castle Winery in Entiklar near Kurtatsch is one of the most traditional family businesses in South Tyrol. Christof and Sabine Tiefenbrunner are now the fifth generation to run the winery – with vineyards that range from 220 to over 1,000 metres above sea level and offer the ideal location for every variety. This Gewürztraminer combines grapes from two characterful sites between 220 and 350 metres: Entiklar/Margreider Leiten with limestone gravel soils from moraine deposits facing south to south-east and Brenntal/Frauenriegel, where red, sandy loam soil faces east. This combination gives the wine both aromatic depth and mineral freshness.

The date on the label (1212 AD) indicates when the winery was given its current name. Deep, powerful dark violet. The seamless bouquet is interwoven with nuances of purple and black fruit, with a good measure of spice and toasted notes. On the palate, it is pure elegance, silky and streamlined, with a growing minerality that provides drive, whilst a delicate web of tannins, floral black fruits and exotic spices resonate. Our verdict: A lush, deep and captivating red that already offers great breadth and will continue to improve with further years of bottle ageing. SUPERIORE.DE

A Sauvignon Blanc from the Collio that seduces rather than provokes. Pale straw yellow with a green tinge in the glass. The nose is complex but never overpowering: elderflower, grapefruit, green pepper, whitecurrant and a hint of sage. Juicy and precise on the palate, with lively acidity, firm structure and cool mineral depth. The maturation in stainless steel tanks emphasises the clarity and aromatic tension of the wine, without tipping over into a garish "gooseberry" flavour. A stylistically finely balanced Sauvignon that brings the potential of the Collio into the bottle with quiet sophistication and authentic terroir expression. Good ageing potential, as is to be expected with all Livio Felluga whites. SUPERIORE.DE

2023 was a year of contrasts in Friuli: after a changeable spring, a warm summer with sporadic rainfall and a cool, dry September made for exceptionally well-balanced grapes. These conditions particularly favoured the late-ripening Ribolla Gialla – which is clearly noticeable in this cru. The wine comes from the historic Zuc di Volpe vineyard – a hill with old vines, clayey marl soils and a striking south-east exposure. Maturation in stainless steel with prolonged ageing on fine lees preserves the varietal typicity and at the same time gives the wine depth and suppleness.

A wine that bears its creator in its name: "Birba" – little cheeky bastard – is what they called Sergio Rossi, the visionary founder of La Gerla. What began as an experiment became a homage: a Brunello that follows all the rules except those of the wooden barrel. Instead of maturing in the large Slavonian vats like its noble siblings, the Birba spends up to fourteen months in French barriques from Allier and the Vosges, a third of which are new – a third of them new. The thirty-year-old vines on the slopes of Canalicchio, between 270 and 320 metres above sea level, produce tiny yields of just 50 quintals per hectare. Fifteen days of maceration extract substance and depth before the wood leaves its spicy signature.

The name means "motherland" – and the Tedeschi family has indeed found a special spot of land with the 84-hectare vineyard between Tregnago and Mezzane di Sotto, which they acquired in 2006. Extensive soil mapping identified real crus here, including the Impervio vineyard – named after its impassable steep slope at an altitude of 400 metres. White and yellow limestone marl of moraine origin characterise the terroir and give the wine its characteristic freshness. Corvina (40%), Corvinone (30%) and Rondinella (30%) are harvested overripe in mid to late October and fermented as whole bunches – a conscious decision for structure and depth of flavour. After 20 days of maceration, the wine matures for 18 months in Slavonian oak and a further six months in the bottle.

What distinguishes a Riserva from an Annata? Time. Time to select the best Sangiovese grapes from the estate's twelve plots. Time for a 25-day vinification process that is conducted with the utmost respect for tradition. And time for at least 21 months in French oak barrels, followed by further bottle ageing before the wine leaves the estate.

The first year of production of the single-varietal Merlot Clos Roareti dates back to 2004. The grapes are harvested from the 2 hectare historic Rovereti vineyard in Negrar. In this 100-year-old vineyard, which is surrounded by equally old walls, Merlot has been cultivated since the 1990s and is perfectly adapted to the climate and the red clay soil. The palate is rich and full-bodied with complex and very aromatic notes. Maturation in oak barrels gives this wine its special flavour and certain opulence. SUPERIORE.DE

A wine of origin and rarity value – ferentano is a pure white wine made from the old Roscetto vine, cultivated around Montefiascone on Lake Bolsena. The very thick berry skins store intense flavours, while the controlled ageing (including barrique) combines purity and depth. Medium straw yellow in the glass with golden reflections. Exotic notes of banana, pineapple and ripe peach on the nose, combined with vegetal accents and a hint of vanilla. Rich and soft on the palate, with plenty of substance, balancing acidity and a long, red fruit finish – perfectly animating and without sweetness. An inimitable white wine with a surprising fullness and elegant structure – a Roscetto that is authentic through and through! SUPERIORE.DE

Garofoli was the first winery in the Marche region to venture the experiment of creating a Metodo Classico exclusively from Montepulciano grapes – a daring innovation that is now considered the jewel in the crown of the winery. Originating from the hills around Castelfidardo, the hand-picked Montepulciano grapes undergo careful vinification according to the classic method. The second fermentation takes place in the bottle, where the spumante matures on the yeasts for between 24 and 30 months – a period of silent transformation that gives it its characteristic creaminess and complexity. This limited production reflects Garofoli's commitment to quality over quantity.

The name reveals the location, the location reveals the wine. Banditella – a vineyard on the southern slope of the Sant'Angelo hill, 250 to 300 metres above the Orcia Valley, a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 2004. Col d'Orcia planted Sangiovese clones here in 1998, which were selected over ten years of research in collaboration with the University of Florence – not just any clones, but those that most accurately express the terroir of Montalcino. Biodynamically farmed, limestone soils with little clay, full southern sun: the conditions could hardly be better. The 2022 vintage demanded decisiveness: temperature fluctuations and late summer rains called for an early, forward-looking harvest at the beginning of September. The grapes were placed in shallow, wide steel tanks – a design that favours gentle extraction – where they macerated at 25°C, accompanied by daily pumping over and délestage. Twelve months in Allier barriques and tonneaux followed before the wine was bottled.