Wines from Tuscany | Maremma

The cork oaks still grow on the hills of Gavorrano today – silent, gnarled, enduring. They gave this wine its name. "Le Sughere": the cork oaks. A tribute to the landscape that supports and characterises this estate, long before a Renzo Piano wine cellar was dug into the rock here. The wine itself is the second label of Rocca di Frassinello – and what Oenologist Alessandro Cellai could call the heart of the estate: not the grand gesture, not the introduction, but the substance. Sangioveto, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot – the same triad as in the entire estate, the same philosophy of the link between Tuscany and Bordeaux. But this is where the wood comes in for the first time. Twelve months in partly new barriques, then nine months in the bottle: patience as a method.

The Riserva embodies the roots of Fattoria Le Pupille – it is the very first wine the estate produced and marketed. Originally launched in 1978 as "Rosso di Pereta", it became, with the establishment of the Morellino di Scansano appellation regulations, the cornerstone of a terroir that Elisabetta Geppetti led to international recognition with passion and vision. As the first woman to head the Consorzio Morellino di Scansano, she shaped not only the appellation but the entire wine culture of the Maremma. Sangiovese (90%) blended with Cabernet Sauvignon (10%) from the La Carla, Maiano, Bozzino and Vecchie Pupille, at altitudes of 50 to 250 metres. The soils vary from clay-silt to sandy loam with a significant limestone-marl component. After 25 to 30 days of maceration at 26 degrees, the wine is aged for twelve months in Slavonian oak casks with a capacity of 20 to 40 hectolitres.

In 2008, the Mazzei family embarked on an agronomic and oenological research project designed to answer a single question: can Vermentino truly be a great wine in the Maremma? Not merely pleasant or agreeable – but great. Deep, complex and suitable for ageing. The answer came with the 2021 vintage. The former "Codice V" became "Belguardo V" – and with it, the very first Vermentino Superiore Maremma Toscana DOC ever to appear on the market. The "Superiore" stands for a conviction that took 13 years to realise, until the wine had earned that designation.

Deep, rich ruby colour. Impressive nose of ripe berries, ripe cherries and delicate graphite nuances. Aromatic and extremely flavoursome on the palate, with a spicy, animating arc. Fine tannins. Well-balanced with a gentle structure that frames the palate until the lively finish. A true Tuscan insider tip with a great value. SUPERIORE.DE

Ampeleias Alicante Nero epitomises their mission like no other wine. When Marco Tait and his team re-cultivated this almost forgotten autochthonous grape variety from the Alta Maremma in 2003, they set an example against the monoculture of international varieties. What was once suppressed to make room for fuller-bodied grape varieties is now proving to be one of the most authentic expressions of the Mediterranean terroir. The grapes come exclusively from the single vineyard "Vigna della Pieve" at an altitude of 250 metres, where sandy soils are interspersed with pebbles and conglomerates. This special soil composition gives the Alicante Nero its characteristic lightness and harmonious balance. As part of the "Monovarietali" project, this wine is vinified with the utmost care according to biodynamic principles.

Vermentino can get burnt. Too much direct sunlight before the harvest and the berry loses its aromatic precursors – the bouquet flattens out, the palate becomes broader, oilier, with an almond-accentuated finish that conceals terroir instead of revealing it. This is a well-known pitfall on the Tuscan coast. In Montebamboli, it is deliberately avoided. The training is programme: Guyot on both sides, foliage kept dense so that the fruit zone remains in the shade. Only the shadiest grapes are harvested, where diffuse light protects the flavour. End of August, beginning of September, by hand, with careful selection. Cooled to 3°C overnight, then whole bunch pressing, static clarification. Fermentation 70% in steel at 18–20°C, 30% in new barriques. Six months on the fine lees with regular bâtonnage, six months in the bottle.

The name says it all: Badilante pays tribute to the workers who, for generations, used their spades to drain and cultivate the marshy lands of the Maremma. Simone Castelli, son of the legendary OenologistMaurizio, vinifies this single-varietal Sangiovese at the organically farmed Podere 414 vineyard near Scansano. The grapes grow at an altitude of 230 metres in loamy-clay soils with a high proportion of coarse material. Spontaneous fermentation in concrete, 15–18 days’ maceration with délestage and remontage, followed by ageing partly in concrete and partly in wood.

Pergolaia consists mainly of Sangiovese with smaller proportions of Merlot and Cabernet Franc. The wine opens with a medium-bodied attack and a bright bouquet characterised by notes of cherry, wild plum, ploughed earth and pressed blue flowers. This very Mediterranean-style red with a strong personality envelops the palate with a delicate, silky intensity. SUPERIORE.DE

"Palistorti" means "crooked stakes" in Italian - and the name is no coincidence. At the beginning of their winemaking career, Laura and Moreno found many limestone boulders in the vineyards, which caused the freshly driven stakes to become crooked and crooked when planted. And that's how this exciting second wine got its name, the estate owners reveal in conversation.

Gualtiero Morellino di Scansano Riserva from Morisfarms shows why this traditional family winery is a firm favourite in the Maremma. The cuvée is predominantly based on Sangiovese (Morellino), supplemented by small proportions of international varieties. The vines grow on sun-drenched hills between the Tyrrhenian coast and the cool foothills of Monte Amiata, whose clay and sandy soils lend the wine fruit and structure. Careful manual harvesting was followed by temperature-controlled fermentation, after which the Riserva matured for 12 months in a combination of barriques and large wooden barrels to harmoniously combine elegance and complexity.

On a car journey to Bordeaux – francesca Moretti and her father Vittorio – the dream that drives Petra was born. Great red wines with a Mediterranean soul and Bordelese precision. Back in Suvereto, the family planted their first vines on the Tenuta San Lorenzo. The vineyard right next to the cantina – named after the gnarled oaks on the edge of the maquis – is Francesca's most personal terrain. Merlot is her favourite grape variety. 88% Merlot, 12% Cabernet Franc – a Bordelese choice for a Tuscan terroir. 26-year-old vines on clay-sandy, slightly calcareous soils, 80 quintals per hectare. Fermentation in the Guyot training system on 6,200 vines per hectare, then nine months in barriques, nine months in cement – a combination that gives the wine structure while retaining freshness. Aged in the bottle for at least six to seven months.

Petra – the name means "stone" and symbolises the solidity with which Vittorio and Francesca Moretti are realising their Tuscan project in the Maremma. The winery was only opened in 2003 and was designed by Swiss star architect Mario Botta as a circular masterpiece. While perlage reigns supreme in Franciacorta (near Bellavista), it is the great red wines of the Val di Cornia that attract international attention here. Alto is Petra's monovarietal answer to the question of what Sangiovese is capable of achieving in this iron-rich, Mediterranean terroir. Experimental research meets Tuscany's oldest grape variety. The grapes are hand-picked and vinified according to the principle of gravity – mechanical stress is consistently avoided. The wine is matured in oak barrels, followed by further ageing in the bottle.

Francesca Moretti grew up with Bellavista – her father Vittorio's Franciacorta winery, one of Italy's reference addresses for sparkling wine. What she wanted to develop in Suvereto was the opposite: great red wines in the style of Bordeaux, from a terroir that hardly anyone knew. The Potenti is her most personal commitment to this conviction – named after the vineyard in Riotorto from which the grapes come. The soils are clayey, sandy and calcareous, interspersed with coarse skeleton – a foundation that forces the Cabernet Sauvignon to root deeply and bear concentrated fruit. The vineyard lies between the foothills of the Colline Metallifere and the Tyrrhenian coast, in a climate that combines sea breezes with long, sunny autumns. After the harvest in October, the wine ferments in large oak conical barrels and matures for 18 months in French barriques – according to the best Bordelese tradition.

This is where Ampeleia's true masterclass is revealed: the Cabernet Franc from the single vineyard "Vigna dell'Asina" is the centrepiece of the "Monovarietali" project and shows why this grape variety has become the flagship of the winery. What began as a vision in 2003 has developed into one of the most precise expressions of the Tuscan terroir. The vineyard lies at an altitude of 500 metres and combines ideal conditions: Clay-rich soils interspersed with characteristic Galestro limestone rocks and Palombini formations create a unique microclimate. Contrary to the expectation that clay soils produce heavy wines, wines of surprising elegance and purity are produced here – a phenomenon that can only be observed in Roccatederighi. Vinification follows Ampeleia's purist approach: 20% of the grapes undergo carbonic maceration as whole bunches, the rest are destemmed. After two weeks of maceration, the wine matures for nine months in cement tanks – for nine months in cement tanks without the use of wood in order to preserve the varietal characteristics unadulterated.

Poliziano stands for Nobile di Montepulciano – almost everyone knows that. But at the end of the 1990s, Federico Carletti bought a second estate, far to the south, in the centre of Maremma: Lohsa. Sandstone soils, a hundred metres above sea level, the Mediterranean climate clearly noticeable. A different terroir, a different language – and consequently a different wine. The Mandrone di Lohsa "speaks" Cabernet Sauvignon, but with an unmistakable Tuscan-Mediterranean accent. Complemented by Petit Verdot and Carignano – not decoration, but character. Small, decisive proportions that give the wine its spice, its solar power and its recognisability. Fermentation in conical steel tanks with a long maceration period, 18 months ageing in French barriques and tonneaux.

Grenache travels far and takes on a different name everywhere: Garnacha in Spain, Cannonau in Sardinia, Alicante on the Tuscan coast. The same Mediterranean soul everywhere – light in colour, bright red fruit, effortless drinkability. On the coast, it is one of the oldest grape varieties; in Montebamboli it has been growing for over 22 years, exposed to the south-east, on iron-rich, acidic soils at an altitude of 371 metres. This combination changes the character. What sometimes tends to be broad in warm, flat areas finds its tension on the cool, windy slopes of the Parco dei Montioni. Open fermentation vats, 20 to 30% whole bunches depending on the vintage, 20 days of maceration at 20 to 25 °C with gentle extraction – then exclusively concrete, 6 to 9 months. No wood to mask the fruit.

Pure Sangiovese from western Tuscany is not comparable with the interpretations from Montalcino or Chianti Classico due to its cultivation near the coast, but this somewhat different facet is in no way inferior to the aforementioned. Saturated, light ruby red colour. Intense and complex bouquet of cherries, lilac and broom, densely woven on the palate with black cherries, spices and grilled herbs, the whole framed by a terrificfreshness and lightness. A supple and elegant wine whose well-balanced acid wire not only provides the necessary structure, but also the framework for a wonderful further ageing phase. SUPERIORE.DE

Whilst Virgilio Bisti tends to the reds – Merlot, Cabernet, Syrah – Rita Tua has focused on the whites. Lodano Bianco is her wine, her conviction: that in this climate and on the mineral-rich soils of the Colline Metallifere, a white wine with a character all of its own can be produced – from a blend that nobody in the Maremma would have expected. Traminer, Riesling and Chardonnay. Three grape varieties, three stories of origin, one terroir. The vineyards near Suvereto lie on loamy, mineral-rich soils, twelve kilometres from the Tyrrhenian Sea. The Mistral wind from the Piombino Channel keeps temperatures in balance, preserves the aromas and gives the white wine that freshness which is not a given at this latitude. Gentle pressing, fermentation in wooden tanks, followed by ageing in barriques.