Wines from South Tyrol and Trentino

Buchholz – as early as the Austrian land register of 1858, the name referred to the valley slopes above Salurn, where terraced vineyards lie on dolomite sedimentary rock at altitudes of between 400 and 800 metres. Peter Zemmer, whose family has been making wine in Kurtinig on the Weinstraße since 1928, has chosen this diverse site for his Chardonnay: a mosaic of microclimates and soils that combines alpine freshness with southern ripeness. In the mornings, the breeze from the north cools the vines; in the afternoons, the "Ora" from the south warms them: a daily rhythm that allows the grapes time to develop. The winemaking process is deliberately restrained: a short cold maceration to preserve the fruit, followed by fermentation at 19°C in large wooden barrels.

Where Pinot Blanc ends, Sauvignon begins. At altitudes of 450 to 550 metres, on the steepest slopes at the foot of the Schlern, it grows on espalier vines at a density of 7,500 vines per hectare, on the same limestone moraines over quartz porphyry, but a little higher up and noticeably cooler. This produces a different character: not the gentle delicacy of Pinot Blanc, but tension and density. A vibrant acidity that creates a pull on the palate. Gently pressed, fermented in stainless steel, aged on fine lees for 8 months. The result is a Sauvignon that demonstrates what altitude and porphyry can do for this grape variety.

Manincor's Vernatsch comes from the "der Keil" monopoly position on Lake Kaltern – one of South Tyrol's warmest vineyards. At an altitude of 250 metres, old vines are trained in the traditional pergola style on calcareous, sandy-loam soils. The south-facing aspect with a direct view of the lake ensures optimal heat retention and perfect ripening conditions. The destemmed grapes undergo spontaneous fermentation with wild yeasts in open wooden vats. During the one-week maceration at a moderate 24°C, the cap of pomace is gently punched down just once a day – minimal intervention for maximum fruit clarity. The wine then matures for five months on its fine lees in large wooden barrels, where the aromas refine and the natural elegance of the Vernatsch is allowed to fully unfold.

Punggl – is the name given to a small hill in the local dialect. 50 metres high, south of Margreid, at an altitude of between 220 and 250 metres: a geological feature in the flatlands of the Unterland. Composed of grey, loamy sand with a high clay content. A soil that stores heat, retains moisture and lends the Pinot Grigio a richness and structure that barren soils can never achieve. Margreid’s Mediterranean climate, the daily Ora breeze from Lake Garda – —this interplay provides ideal ripening conditions for the vines here, some of which are up to 80 years old. The vinification of Punggl differs significantly from simple grape processing: pressed immediately, the juice is clear and aromatic – followed by three weeks’ fermentation in 30-hectolitre wooden barrels. No steel, no concrete. The neutral wood gives the must a texture that steel cannot provide. Eight months’ ageing on fine lees in the same wooden barrels further deepens this structure.

Kirchegg – the corner by the church. Field names like this are as old in South Tyrol as the vineyards themselves: precise descriptions of the land before there were maps, before there were appellations, before anyone had the idea of marketing vineyards. This patch of earth near Tramin – in the heart of the South Tyrolean Wine Route – is one of the warmest sites in the Adige Valley: naturally good for grape varieties that need warmth, structure and ripeness. 80% Merlot and 20% Cabernet Sauvignon on heavy clay soils: Merlot brings the warm, dark fruit and the fullness, Cabernet the structure, the tannic persistence and the slightly vegetal tone that gives the wine its unmistakable character. After the harvest, a short maceration followed by 10 days of fermentation with the skins permanently submerged, with a deliberate increase in temperature towards the end for maximum extraction of colour and aromas. International in the origin of the grape varieties – pure South Tyrol in the result.

Here the name becomes the programme: Michael Graf Goëss-Enzenberg gave this wine its title because it tastes like Manincor itself. The essence of the hills that surround the estate, the view over Lake Kaltern, the strength and warmth of the warmest vineyards in South Tyrol – all come together in this glass. Grapes from Manincor and Panholzerhof, both at 250 metres, south-eastern slopes with sandy clay soils full of limestone gravel and glacial deposits.

Some wines have a history. This one has a founding history. The Terlaner Cuvée (formerly Classico) was already there in 1893, when 24 winegrowers founded a cooperative in the small village of Terlan – with the conviction that more is possible together than alone. Over 130 years later, this idea remains unchanged, as does the wine. 60 per cent Pinot Bianco, 30 per cent Chardonnay, 10 per cent Sauvignon Blanc – the three great white Terlans in an assemblage that cellar master Rudi Kofler describes as compositional logic: Pinot Bianco provides freshness and acid structure, Chardonnay the ripe warmth and fullness, Sauvignon Blanc the fine aromatic play. Not a product of chance, but a wine with architecture. The grapes grow at 280 to 700 metres above sea level, on the characteristic quartz porphyry of Terlan – volcanic primary rock, which gives the wines their salty minerality and exceptional longevity.

Gewürztraminer does not bear its name for nothing – it is one of the autochthonous South Tyrolean grape varieties and finds ideal conditions at the Ebnerhof on calcareous, loamy sandy soils. The vines thrive on the eastern slopes at an altitude of 500 to 550 metres, where Mediterranean influences from the Bolzano basin meet Alpine freshness. After gentle pressing, the Unterthiner family gives the wine six months to mature on the fine lees in stainless steel tanks.

"Zero Infinito" stands for zero chemical intervention and infinity. Years of research and experimentation have led to this extraordinary project, in which grapes from the fungus-resistant Solaris variety are transformed into wine without any additives: no treatment in the vineyard, no use of sulphur dioxide, no commercial yeasts, no fining agents, no filtration and no antioxidants. The grapes for this sparkling wine made using the Méthode Ancestrale (Pet Nat) with lees come from the south-west facing Maso Rella vineyard, situated at an altitude of 800 to 900 metres.

The Turmhof selection is named after the historic "Castel Turmhof" estate, which is also the company's headquarters. The grapes come from several selected hillside vineyards up to 900 metres above sea level. They remain on the lees for several months, are partly matured in wooden barrels and brought to maturity, whereby particular attention is paid to the sensory complexity of the respective grape variety as well as structure and elegance.

La Contessa is a South Tyrolean white wine with character and heritage, produced from biodynamically cultivated vineyards near Kaltern. Grown on loamy-sandy soils at an altitude of 300–400 metres, this blend of Pinot Blanc, Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc combines alpine freshness with southern charm. Spontaneously fermented and aged partly in wood and partly in stainless steel, the wine is complex and precise: delicate fruity notes of apple, citrus and lemon balm, accompanied by salty minerality and lively acidity. Finely balanced on the palate, dry and invigorating – an expressive, biodynamic white wine with cool elegance and a South Tyrolean character. SUPERIORE.DE

Marjun presents itself in a ruby to garnet red colour and develops a harmonious aroma of wild berries, plums and cherries in the glass, underpinned by a spicy herbal note. This fruity and juicy Pinot Noir, which impresses with its delicate structure and soft tannins, is cool and firm on the palate. The profile of the Marjun is rounded off by a refreshing acidity, which is indicative of the high altitudes of its vineyards. On the finish, this elegant Pinot Noir impresses with its juicy fruitiness and lingering flavour. SUPERIORE.DE

The Lageder family has only been cultivating Lagrein on the geologically fascinating Margreider Schuttkegel for around ten years – thus opening up a completely new terroir for this indigenous grape variety. Conus, Latin for cone, refers to this unusual formation of dolomite limestone and gravelly sand between 230 and 320 metres. The biodynamic Demeter cultivation of the site promotes vines of particular stability and depth. After spontaneous fermentation, the Lagrein matures for twelve months, partly in stainless steel and partly in small wooden barrels.

In Campo Rotaliano, this geological treasure trove nestled amongst the peaks of the Dolomites, Elisabetta Foradori has been rewriting the history of Teroldego for four decades. What began in 1960 as a family wine is now the epitome of indigenous excellence. The grapes come from twelve hand-selected plots spanning nine hectares, their roots reaching deep into alluvial sand and dolomite limestone. Fifteen different Teroldego biotypes, developed through years of mass selection, reflect the diversity of this unique terroir. Biodynamic Demeter cultivation, practised since 2002, allows the indigenous grape variety to unfold its original identity. Spontaneous fermentation in concrete tanks, partly using whole bunches, preserves the lively fruitiness. Twelve months' ageing in a combination of concrete and oak vats lends the wine structure without being overpowering.

The Kerner grape variety originates from Weinsberg; it was bred in 1929 from a cross between Trollinger and Riesling and named after the poet and doctor Justinus Kerner. In the Eisack Valley, the variety has been planted in frost-prone areas since 1981, as it is considered hardy, and today the valley is its most important growing region in South Tyrol. The Ebner Winery is situated on the sunny Ritten plateau, on a rocky outcrop above Atzwang in the southernmost part of the Eisack Valley. Florian and Brigitte Unterthiner are the third generation to work there. The estate's white wines are grown on well-ventilated south-easterly slopes; the soils are sandy-loam, rich in limestone and contain porphyry.

Pinot Noir is a grape variety that seeks altitude. It finds it in South Tyrol – and Tiefenbrunner has selected the highest and coolest Pinot Noir sites in the entire portfolio for the Turmhof: Völser Aicha at 600 to 980 metres, on clayey sandy soil over grey porphyry, exposed to the south. Graun at 700 to 940 metres, calcareous-loamy dolomite soil. Penon, Hofstatt and Rain at 400 to 650 metres, calcareous dolomite soils. Mazon, Pinzon and Glen at 400 to 550 metres, sandy loam soil on dolomite rock. Four soil profiles, one wine. These altitudes require Pinot Noir to do what it does best: ripen slowly, build up structure, intensify flavours. Ageing in barriques and large wooden barrels gives the wine depth and elegance.

The grapes for this Pinot Noir come from three vineyards at an altitude of up to 980 metres. Different soils of moraine deposits, limestone gravel and sand give this ruby-red wine its unmistakable character. Blackberries, raspberries and cherries on the nose. On the palate, it impresses with power and finesse, its harmony and elegance delighting us right through to the final. SUPERIORE.DE

Pale straw yellow with a sparkling lustre. Noble nuances of flint on the nose, mineral with beautiful citrus, grapefruit and gooseberry notes. Subtly creamy and taut on the palate, with beautiful precision and juiciness, the racy, long final is pleasantly fresh and slightly salty. SUPERIORE.DE

Gewürztraminer is no unassuming grape variety. It walks into a room – and everyone turns to look. The question is not whether it stands out, but whether there is substance behind the aroma. With the Lyra from Nals Margreid, the answer is: yes. The vineyards are situated in the South Tyrolean Unterland, facing south-east, at altitudes of between 350 and 550 metres at the foot of the Roen mountain range. The soil, consisting of broodingloamy gravel over limestone, gives the wine its texture, whilst the afternoon "Ora" breeze from Lake Garda ensures freshness and healthy harvest. Cellar master Harald Schraffl vinifies this single-varietal wine in stainless steel tanks, with three weeks' fermentation at a cool temperature followed by seven months' ageing on fine lees.

Dry warmth during the day and refreshing coolness at night - ideal conditions for a Gewürztraminer that is leaner and fresher at Weingut Falkenstein than is otherwise known from South Tyrol. Bright yellow. On the nose, ripe but never exuberant aromas of dried fruits, honey, a little scent of roses. Medium-bodied on the palate and extremely drinkable due to its relatively low residual sweetness. The long fermentation on the natural yeasts ensures a balanced and lean appearance here. SUPERIORE.DE