Wines from South Tyrol and Trentino

The great Bordeaux estates have shown the way: a so-called "second wine" is not simply a wine that didn't make the grade. It offers a different perspective. Younger vines, different plots, shorter ageing – resulting in a wine that is meant to be drunk sooner, has a fresher character and reveals a different facet of the same terroir. Tenuta San Leonardo introduced this concept to the Dolomites in 2005.

In 1975, Mario Pojer and Fiorentino Sandri purchased two hectares of vineyards in Faedo, a hill situated between the Adige Valley and the Val di Cembra. Many were sceptical: Faedo was considered unsuitable for quality winegrowing. The pair remained undeterred. Today, Faedo is one of Trentino’s most sought-after wine-growing sites – and Pojer e Sandri is one of Italy’s most innovative wineries. The Traminer is grown on two sites: Faedo, Località Coveli, at 300 metres, south-west facing, on porphyritic-volcanic soil with sandy layers of dark, gravel-rich rock. And Cembra, Località Valbona, at 450 metres – cooler, providing structure. The Ora del Garda, the daily wind from Lake Garda, ventilates the vineyards and keeps the aromas fresh. Gewürztraminer from Alsatian clones, Pergoletta Trentina Aperta and Guyot, 6,000 to 6,500 vines per hectare. Vinification follows a principle developed in-house: grape washing and pressing in a controlled atmosphere – without any exogenous antioxidants. The grape variety speaks for itself; nothing masks it.

High above Bolzano, where the steep porphyry slopes of the Ritten rise 650 metres into the Alpine air, one of South Tyrol’s most distinctive Gewürztraminers thrives. Kleinstein is the result of uncompromising selection: Cellar master Stephan Filippi selects grapes exclusively from those vineyards where the volcanic terroir and the extreme day-night temperature fluctuations draw out the full aromatic power of this regal grape variety. These privileged plots on the Ritten tell a geological story: Ancient volcanic rock and mineral-rich weathered soils create a terroir of rare intensity. Here, the Gewürztraminer grapes ripen under the South Tyrolean sun, whilst cool mountain breezes provide the freshness that gives this premium wine its impressive balance.

Margreid lies in the very south of South Tyrol – and is therefore, in terms of climate, a world away from the high Alpine regions near Nals. Warm summers, mild winters, and every afternoon the Ora: the warm southerly wind from Lake Garda that sweeps through the vineyards, aerating the vines and keeping the harvesthealthy. Chardonnay thrives on precisely this. The vineyards, situated on a gentle slope at altitudes between 220 and 350 metres and facing south-southeast, are planted on brooding, white limestone gravel soil with a high humus content – a terroir that fosters both richness and aromatic intensity. Cellar master Harald Schraffl favours a measured approach to vinification: fermentation in 30-hectolitre wooden barrels over three weeks, followed by eight months' ageing on the fine lees. The creaminess comes from the lees, not the wood.

Tramin, a small village in the South Tyrolean lowlands – and one of the great namesakes of the wine world. It is here, at the foot of the Dolomites, that Gewürztraminer originated. It is no coincidence that the Cantina Terlan has included this wine in its "Tradition" line: it is part of the region's DNA. The grapes grow at an altitude of 270 to 450 metres, in vineyards between the Alpine north and the Mediterranean south – a location that creates pronounced temperature differences between day and night and gives Gewürztraminer precisely the tension that distinguishes it from its fuller-bodied relatives. Hand-picked, gentle pressing, slow fermentation in steel, 6–7 months on the lees.

The historic fortified tower in the centre of Entiklar, which gives the winery its name and its middle line its character: structured, expressive, from selected vineyards. One step above the Merus – and you can feel it. Turmhof Chardonnay comes from the same three vineyard sites as Merus, but with a lower yield: 50 to 60 hectolitres per hectare instead of 65 to 75. The altitude range of 210 to 650 metres remains the same – calcareous dolomite soils in Penon, Hofstatt and Rain, calcareous gravel soils from moraine deposits in Entiklar and on the Margreider Leiten, sandy-calcareous alluvial soils in Margreid, Punggl and Kurtinig. What distinguishes Turmhof from Merus is also decided in the cellar: partial ageing in large oak barrels.

Pinot Grigio from South Tyrol – this is in a different league to many of the pleasing mass-produced wines from the Veneto. At Tiefenbrunner, the grapes come from selected hillside vineyards south of Margreid and in Kurtatsch, at an altitude of 220 to 400 metres, facing south to south-east. Calcareous soils and the typical South Tyrolean interplay of warm days and cool Alpine nights give the wine its characterful minerality. Ageing in large wooden barrels on the fine lees gives this Pinot Gris its special texture – round and elegant at the same time, with a creamy finish without masking the fruit.

The family's daughter is called Anna, and this Pinot Blanc has borne her name since 2004. Its grapes are grown in Penon, Hofstatt and Rain – three vineyards near Kurtatsch at altitudes of 400 metres and above – on limestone-rich moraine and dolomite soil. During the day, the vines are bathed in strong sunshine; in the evening, the wind from the Mendel mountain range cools the slopes. The wine is aged for ten months: 70% is aged in large wooden barrels on the full lees, 30% in concrete tanks on the fine lees, after which the wine rests in the bottle for six months.

The name comes from the estate's headquarters: Castel Turmhof in Entiklar has been in the family since 1675. The grapes for the Turmhof Sauvignon, which has been produced since 1994, are grown in Graun, the highest hamlet in Kurtatsch, at altitudes of 700 to 940 metres, and in Penon, Hofstatt and Rain at altitudes of 400 to 650 metres. The soils are characterised by limestone and dolomite, and in the evenings cool winds blow down from the Mendel mountain range. The wine is matured in large wooden casks and concrete vats, spending several months on the lees.

A real rarity: Ebnerhof is home to the southernmost Grüner-Veltliner vineyards in South Tyrol. What is mainstream in Austria is exclusive in the Isarco Valley – the grape variety has felt at home here for generations, but only a few winegrowers dare to try their hand at it. The Unterthiner family cultivates this Austrian legend on mineral-rich, gravelly soils at an altitude of 500 to 550 metres, where the special soil conditions give the wine its unmistakable signature. After gentle processing, the must ferments at a controlled temperature in stainless steel tanks, after which the wine matures on the fine lees – partly in small wooden barrels –which gives it additional depth.

Saxum: the rock. A wine name derived from Latin that states quite simply what this Sauvignon grows on: Ice Age limestone soils, shaped and left behind by glaciers, with a minerality that gives the wine its unmistakable character. Not the volcanic depth of the Schlerngestein, but the bright, clear precision of Alpine limestone. Montan is best known as the home of Pinot Nero. The fact that Sauvignon Blanc of such high quality also thrives here is down to the very same conditions that lend the red wines their elegance: cool sites, good air circulation and well-structured soils. Pfitscher vinifies the Saxum in stainless steel at a controlled temperature of 18°C, with yeast ageing to develop texture and body.

Since the end of the 19th century, this French grape variety has been at home in the southern Eisack Valley. At the Ebnerhof, Sauvignon grows on barren, stony gravel-marl soil – and it is precisely this barrenness that makes all the difference. The Unterthiner family employs rigorous yield control, manual leaf removal and thinning to ensure concentrated grape material. In the cellar, they rely on temperature-controlled fermentation in stainless-steel tanks to preserve the variety's characteristic freshness.

The Vinschgau is the driest valley in the Alps – less than 500 millimetres of rainfall per year, intense sunshine, dramatic temperature fluctuations between day and night. Not an obvious place for great wine. And yet: Franz Pratzner has believed in it since 1989 – when he gradually transformed the family fruit-growing business above Hochnaturn Castle into a vineyard. Today, Falkenstein is regarded as one of South Tyrol’s most distinctive estates. The Pinot Blanc grows on dry, ancient porphyry soil, on steep south-facing slopes between 550 and 900 metres – austere, mineral, uncompromising. Hand-harvested in mid- to late September. Then comes the estate’s hallmark: fermentation in large acacia wood casks, ten months on the coarse lees. No stainless steel neutrality, no barrique influence – acacia gives the wine a delicate, creamy texture without detracting from its freshness. This is followed by around twelve months’ bottle ageing.

South of Margreid lies the "15er" vineyard, which is characterised by deposits from the Fenner stream and the Adige river and has been planted largely with Merlot vines since 1957. Its location enjoys particularly good aeration thanks to the warm wind from Lake Garda, the Ora, which gives the wine a delicate structure and great finesse. Cherry red in colour with a ruby red sheen. Impressive bouquet of concentrated fruit, pepper and vegetal notes. The body is pleasantly medium-bodied, precise and balanced, with a fine bittersweet flavour and convincing freshness. SUPERIORE.DE

Lagrein is South Tyrol's great indigenous red grape variety – and at Tiefenbrunner it finds ideal conditions. The grapes come from the slopes of Entiklar and Margreider Leiten, at altitudes of 220 to 350 metres, where limestone gravel soils formed from moraine deposits provide mineral depth. Some of the vines were planted as far back as 1967 – experience you can really taste. Following maceration in stainless steel, malolactic fermentation takes place, after which the wine matures for eight months in large and small wooden barrels. The result: a Lagrein that combines power with elegance.