Wines from South Tyrol and Trentino

Rosso Mosso means: a red wine that's on the move. The play on words is intentional. "Mosso" sounds like "mosto", the young wine that is fermenting and alive. Helena and Alois Clemens Lageder, representing the new generation, created this wine because they wanted to ask a question: what happens when you transform red wine into a fresher, more accessible, effervescent form without losing its character? The answer comes from a network. For over twenty years, Alois Lageder has been working with organic winegrowers from various South Tyrolean vineyards. For the Rosso Mosso, grapes from these partner vineyards come together; different vintages and grape varieties are blended and reimagined. No specific vintage, no boundaries. Volcanic and limestone soils; alcoholic fermentation and malolactic fermentation in stainless steel. The attractive label was designed by the Finnish artist Klaus Haapaniemi.

Pinot Blanc is not a fad in Terlan. It is the foundation. The grape variety around which cellar master Rudi Kofler has been thinking for decades is Pinot Bianco – and no other place in Italy produces it as clearly, as long-lived, as unmistakably as these slopes. The vineyards lie at 350 to 900 metres, on steep to very steep slopes on Monte Tschöggl – higher and cooler than most other Terlan parcels. Quartz porphyry, hand-picked, gentle pressing, slow fermentation in steel, 6–7 months on the fine lees.

Above Margreid, where the Mediterranean climate of the lowlands gives way to the coolness of the higher altitudes, lies the Penon. A single vineyard at an altitude of 500 to 600 metres, facing east-southeast – to the morning sun, which sweeps gently and evenly across the vineyard before the afternoon heat sets in. The soil is pure: exclusively limestone gravel with a high humus content. No porphyry, no volcanic deposits, no mixed rock. Just limestone – and, within this limestone, the most concentrated minerality that Nals Margreid has to offer for Pinot Bianco. The Penon is not a ‘Tradition’ wine, but one of the estate’s ‘Selection’ wines: a single vineyard vinified according to the estate’s own style. Hand-harvested, carefully processed, and further aged sur lies in stainless steel.

The evening downdrafts from the Mendel Mountains give the entire terroir of the St. Michael-Eppan Winery its distinctive character. They ensure cool nights and endow the grapes with those exceptional qualities that define the wines' aromas, their unmistakable freshness and their longevity. The downwind is the natural force that sweeps across the vineyard every day, positively influencing the climate and supporting the valuable work of the winegrowers at the cooperative winery. 

Chardonnay is a world grape variety – and that is precisely the problem from time to time. Too often it tastes like a desire to be somewhere else: Burgundy, Napa, some ideal. Terlaner Chardonnay does not have this problem. It tastes like Terlan. The vineyards are located on the characteristic quartz porphyry soils on the slopes of Monte Tschöggl, where volcanic primary rock gives the grapes mineral tension and natural freshness. Hand-picked, gentle pressing, slow fermentation in steel, 5–7 months on the fine lees – no wood to over-mould, no butter to smooth.

Lezér means "light", and that's exactly what it is – in the most delicate sense of the word. A pale ruby red in colour, with red berries and an interesting hint of violet on the nose. On the palate, smoky notes, freshly cut wood and a subtle creaminess. A thoroughly fresh red wine right through to the finish, which is perfect when served slightly chilled during the warmer months and pairs beautifully with simple Mediterranean cuisine. Maturation in a variety of vessels, such as amphorae, concrete tanks and wooden barrels, lends it an extra charm and an unmistakable character. SUPERIORE.DE

Termeno gave the Gewürztraminer its name. Whether the grape variety actually originates from this village in southern South Tyrol is a matter of scientific debate. What is not in dispute, however, is that nowhere else in the world does the Gewürztraminer feel quite so at home as on the slopes around Termeno. Hofstätter, one of the historic estates of the Unterland region, has been rooted here for generations. Joseph is at the heart of this conviction. Fermentation takes place after just a few hours' skin contact, exclusively in steel at a maximum of 16 to 20°C – no oak to overpower the aromatics. The result is intended to be the Gewürztraminer in its purest form: precise and well-defined. The soils around Termeno are marly, light, well-aerated and warm up quickly – a terroir that promotes ripening whilst preserving the aromatics.

Lagrein – South Tyrol's "local hero", as cellar master Rudi Kofler calls it. Originally native to Bolzano, this indigenous grape variety has long since found a home in the Terlano area too. Founded in 1893, the winery – the village’s first cooperative and today one of the most prestigious producers of South Tyrolean white wines – also cultivates this traditional red variety with its characteristic meticulous care. Hand-harvested, destemmed and fermented at a controlled temperature in stainless steel, the wine is then aged for 7–10 months in large wooden barrels. This ageing process gives the Lagrein its velvety texture without overpowering the fruit.

Rivus: the river. The Adige flows through the Unterland from Neumarkt to Auer, that welcoming region of southern South Tyrol where Lagrein thrives on the flat valley slopes like almost nowhere else. It is here that Pfitscher sources the grapes for her more approachable Lagrein – from vineyards at 300 metres, partly from vines that have stood here for a hundred years. Fermentation takes place in concrete vats with continuous stirring of the cap, followed by 10 to 12 months in oak and concrete vats. An approachable Lagrein for drinking now and for every day.

The Goldmuskateller (moscato giallo) is one of South Tyrol's aromatic rarities. At Tiefenbrunner, it thrives at altitudes between 220 and 650 metres, with the best lots coming from the Penon, Hofstatt and Rain vineyards: 400 to 650 metres high, on calcareous dolomite soils that give the wine its fine mineral structure. Vinification takes place exclusively in concrete tanks – a deliberate decision to preserve the varietal flavours unadulterated.

Named after the Moar farm of the same name, which can look back on over 600 years of winegrowing tradition, this Classico embodies the soul of the St. Magdalener region. The vines grow on the south-facing slopes above Bolzano between 200 and 300 metres above sea level, where gravelly porphyry soils give the wine its unmistakable character. The classic cuvée of 85% Vernatsch and 15% Lagrein combines the best of two indigenous worlds: the floral lightness of Vernatsch with the structure-giving depth of Lagrein. After traditional fermentation, the wine matures in large oak barrels.

While the Magred thrives in the Mediterranean south of South Tyrol, the Gennen lies at the opposite end of the winery – in Nals, north of Bolzano, at 330 to 400 metres above sea level. A different world, a different character. No Ora wind, no Mediterranean flair. Instead: a continental climate, warm days, cool nights and a soil that has been washed. Literally. The subsoil is a 150 metre deep cone of debris from the Sirmian and Nals streams – 80% limestone gravel, 20% porphyry gravel, orientated east-southeast. This soil gives the Sauvignon Blanc its tension: striking minerality, salty flavour, aromatic precision. Cellar master Harald Schraffl ferments the clarified must for around three weeks in cool steel tanks and then matures the young wine for seven months on the fine lees – pure, without the influence of wood, focussing on freshness and structure.

Goldmuskateller is one of South Tyrol's oldest grape varieties, which until a few years ago was still regarded as temperamental and demanding. Manincor demonstrates what this "diva" is capable of when given the right sites: Mareit Leiten at 350 metres, with an extremely steep south-facing slope featuring warm gravelly soils and moraine deposits. Added to this are Vogelleiten and Panholzer, with loamy limestone gravel soils – sites where the Muscat's exuberant growth is tamed and perfect ripeness is achieved. The destemmed berries macerate for twelve hours in the press to extract aroma and structure from the skins. Fermentation takes place in wooden barrels and steel tanks, largely spontaneously with wild yeasts. During the five-month ageing on the fine lees, the aroma and flavour become more refined – and the wine develops that balance between fruit and minerality which characterises dry Muscat wines.

Kretzer – it sounds rougher than the wine actually is. This old South Tyrolean word for rosé, once derived from the tart freshness of unripe berries, has a completely different character today: fruity, lively, with the unmistakable temperament of Lagrein. For Lagrein is South Tyrol in its purest form – an indigenous grape variety that has been at home between Bolzano and Terlano for centuries. As a rosé, it reveals a side that the full-bodied red does not always show: lightness, freshness and approachability. The grapes grow at altitudes of 250 to 280 metres in the flat, sun-drenched vineyards around Terlan. Hand-harvested, gently pressed as whole bunches, slow fermentation in stainless steel – 6 to 7 months on the fine lees.

The name reveals the origin: pepis made up of the classic Sauvignon vineyards Penon and Pinzon, which are located in the municipalities of Kurtatsch and Montan on opposite sides of the valley. A clever move – while one side receives its full ration of sunshine in the morning, the other is only spoilt in the afternoon. The result: grapes from 250 to 550 metres above sea level that ripen on calcareous, loamy, gravelly soils and benefit from extreme day-night fluctuations. Fermentation takes place in stainless steel tanks at a cool 19°C.

The name Glarea is of Romansh origin and means ‘gravel’. The grapes for this mineral-driven and very harmonious Chardonnay grow at an altitude of around 250 metres on the lower part of the Höllenbach debris cone, in soils rich in limestone and gravel. Thanks to the low hillside location and proximity to the valley floor, a distinct microclimate develops here, characterised by considerable temperature fluctuations. During the day, the Glarea vineyards enjoy very warm temperatures, which are replaced – particularly in the late night and early morning hours – by cool air masses, lending the wine a lovely crispness and freshness.

Pinot Grigio is sometimes mass-produced in northern Italy. Millions of bottles, pale style, interchangeable. And then there is the Cantina Terlan, alongside a few other serious winegrowers. At 270 to 350 metres, on the gently sloping porphyry slopes around Terlan, the Ruländer – as its old, more appropriate name – tells a different story. Hand-picked, gentle pressing, slow fermentation in steel, 5-7 months on the fine lees: a vinification that gives the grape variety room to show itself.

South Tyrol's now second most important red grape variety finds its perfect stage on the sun-drenched slopes of Andriano between 300 and 450 metres above sea level. Here, where calcareous clay soils meet dolomite rock, the Burgundian aristocrat unfolds its full alpine finesse. The unique microclimate of this altitude gives the thin-skinned berries their characteristic elegance and aromatic depth. The hand-picked grapes are gently destemmed and fermented at a controlled temperature to preserve the delicate flavours. A six-month refinement in stainless steel tanks on the fine lees gives this Pinot Nero additional texture and complexity.

The name Lepus – Latin for 'hare' – refers to the heraldic animal of the Haas family, who have been based in the picturesque village of Montagna, south of Bolzano, since 1880. What began as a small family business developed under Franz Haas into one of South Tyrol's most visionary wineries, causing a stir with its striking artist-designed labels by Riccardo Schweizer and its consistent use of screw caps. Lepus embodies the classic elegance of South Tyrolean white wine: made from 100% Pinot Bianco, the grapes come from vineyards in three different sites at altitudes of between 400 and 800 metres around Montagna, facing south and south-west on geologically diverse soils – ranging from loose sandy soils to dense, weathered porphyry. Vinification takes place 80% in temperature-controlled stainless-steel tanks and 20% in small oak barriques, followed by several months of ageing on the lees.

The Gump Hof is situated at the foot of the Schlern, the iconic Dolomite massif to the east of Bolzano, which, with its flat summit, dominates the entire surrounding area. First mentioned in records in 1546 and owned by the Prackwieser family for over 200 years, Markus took over the estate from his father in 2000 – following wine study trips to the Wachau, Burgundy and the Loire Valley, which shaped his approach. The name Mediaevum says it all: the Middle Ages, from the Latin, and thus a commitment to a landscape and a history of viticulture that began long before modern South Tyrol. The vineyards are situated at altitudes of 400 to 500 metres, on calcareous moraines overlying compact quartz porphyry, with a slope gradient of 45 to 55 per cent. Gentle pressing, stainless steel, 8 months on the fine lees.

Medium golden yellow. A spicy, intense nose with aromas of roses, lychee and lily blossoms. On the palate, it is full-bodied and round with a rich, creamy texture. Spicy and mineral notes are complemented by fresh acidity, alongside hints of apricot and honeydew melon. Gewürztraminer Stoass finishes harmoniously with a delicately fruity and smooth finish. SUPERIORE.DE

Riesling (Riesing renano, not Riesling italico) is regarded as the soul of Northern Europe – moselle, Rhine, Alsace. The fact that it finds a completely unique voice in the hills of Trentino is down to two men who started out in Faedo in 1975, and two soils that could hardly be more different. In Cembra, Maso Besleri, Località Val Bona, the vines grow on volcanic porphyry – —dark, grainy, rich in rounded pebbles. The slopes have a gradient of up to 50 per cent: heroic in every respect, Guyot training, 6,000 vines per hectare. In Faedo, Località Palai, the soil is the exact opposite: limestone and dolomite of marine origin, sedimentary, light in colour and providing structure.

700 metres. That is the altitude at which one of Pojer e Sandri’s two Pinot Noir vineyards is situated – in Palai, south-facing, on local limestone soil, swept by the Ora del Garda. For Pinot Nero in Trentino, this is exceptionally high. Long, cool nights, marked temperature fluctuations, and a slow ripening process that gives the grape variety exactly the time it needs to develop elegance and freshness. The second vineyard is in Faedo itself, in Località Rocol, at 300 metres – lower, warmer, and more full-bodied. Together, these two sites produce a Pinot Nero that fully embodies Faedo. Since 2002, the winery has been using a proprietary, patented process: Iperriduzione – the entire processing of the grapes takes place without oxygen, exclusively in stainless steel tanks. No external intervention – the grape’s natural protective compounds do the work. Fresh, clear, consistent.