Wines from Puglia

Intense violet colour in the glass. The bouquet of smoke, spices with traces of liquorice. Taut on the palate, then opening up and a mouthful of wine with everything the wine lover's heart desires when thinking of Puglia: harmony, fresh fruit and animating acidity, plus fine extract sweetness and well-worked tannins. SUPERIORE.DE

The name Rifugio – refuge – tells of underground hiding places where the inhabitants of Salento once protected themselves from danger. Today, an entire area near Veglie bears this name, where particularly high-quality Primitivo grapes thrive on alluvial, clayey soils with limestone deposits. The traditional Conti Zecca winery, owned by the noble family since the 16th century and one of the icons of Apulia with 320 hectares of vineyards, vinifies this single-varietal Primitivo using tried and tested methods: manual harvesting with selection at the sorting table, gentle destemming and pressing, twelve-day maceration at 25 degrees, alcoholic and malolactic fermentation in stainless steel tanks. Maturation takes place over twelve months in large oak barrels of 30 hectolitres and in resin-sealed concrete tanks, followed by a short period of maturation in the bottle.

What began in 2004 as an anniversary wine for the 50th harvest of Salice Salentino – leone de Castris has been producing this Apulian classic since 1954 – has become a firm tradition due to its resounding success. Since then, a new edition of the "50° Vendemmia" has been released every year. A Riserva that shows how Negroamaro and Malvasia Nera find their powerful yet elegant expression on the red soils of Salento. After selective harvest, the blend of 90% Negroamaro and 10% Malvasia Nera di Lecce undergoes an 8 to 12-day maceration at a controlled temperature of 20 to 22 degrees before the wine matures for twelve months in 30-hectolitre oak barrels. A further six months of bottle ageing round off the process.

Nero di Troia was long the well-kept secret of northern Apulia – used in cuvées, rarely in its pure form. Torrevento changed this in 1993: the Vigna Pedale was the first single-varietal Nero di Troia in the world. Since then, it has been the flagship of the winery – and has left the Gambero Rosso with no choice but to award it the highest rating eight times in a row up to the current 2019 vintage.

In 1993, on the 50th anniversary of the Five Roses, Leone de Castris decided that an anniversary deserved a worthy wine. The Anniversario was born – and has been making history ever since. The Tre Bicchieri of the Gambero Rosso several times, as if it were routine. 80% Negroamaro, 20% Malvasia Nera di Lecce, on clayey-silty soils in Salice Salentino. Hand-picked at the beginning of September, gentle destemming, cold maceration at 7–10°C, gentle must extraction without pressing pressure, controlled fermentation in steel. Simple, precise, without compromise.

Feudi di San Gregorio is an institution in Campania – greco di Tufo, Fiano di Avellino and Taurasi have made the winery from Sorbo Serpico famous. However, the Campanians have also been exploring other terroirs in southern Italy for years: in Apulia, not far from the Ionian Sea, they cultivate Primitivo vineyards, whose grapes produce an uncomplicated, authentic red wine. No big prestige line, but solid craftsmanship from one of the most traditional Primitivo regions in Italy. The vinification follows a straightforward concept: the grapes are carefully selected and fermented in stainless steel at a controlled temperature. The wine matures for several months in steel, without contact with wood, in order to preserve the fruity clarity of the grape variety. The result is an accessible Primitivo without baroque opulence – feudi di San Gregorio focusses on drinking pleasure rather than extract power.

An Aglianico with character and origin: "Cappellaccio" comes from calcareous soils at an altitude of around 300 metres, near the Castello di Federico II - the namesake of the DOC. The 2018 vintage was balanced and allowed for a late, selective harvest. Ageing in barriques and large wooden barrels for 12 months gives the wine structure and maturity. Dense ruby colour with a garnet-red rim in the glass. Black cherry, dried plum, liquorice, balsamic herbs and a hint of tobacco on the nose. Concentrated on the palate, with pithy tannins, dark spice and mineral freshness. A powerful yet surprisingly precise Aglianico from the chalky slopes of northern Murgia - a masculine wine with depth and potential.

Primitivo can be many things – jammy and overloaded, or as here: clear, elegant, with depth. The Counts Zecca vinify this wine from old vines on their Tenuta in the south-west of Salento, where calcareous soils and constant sea breezes keep the grapes healthy and concentrated. Ageing in wooden barrels and cement tanks gives the wine time to mature without bending it. Deep ruby red in the glass with garnet reflections. The bouquet surprises with smoky spice notes, a hint of tobacco and candied fruit – a far cry from the one-dimensional fruit bomb you might expect. The palate reveals a fine texture: mineral notes, silky tannins and an extract sweetness that provides structure rather than masking it. Primitivo for people who want to know what this grape variety is really capable of. SUPERIORE.DE

Deep, dark ruby red with a garnet red centre. The aroma is warm and complex: black cherry, dried plums, a pinch of tobacco and balsamic notes, underpinned by a hint of liquorice and toast. Powerful and well-structured on the palate, with dense tannins and a ripe, almost velvety texture. The ageing in barriques adds depth without overpowering the fruit. Negroamaro in this Riserva form shows its full potential: independent, complex and with elegant maturity. An authentic representative of the DOC Leverano, characterised by the warm climate of Salento and the craftsmanship of Conti Zecca. SUPERIORE.DE

Gregory Perrucci has given Primitivo di Manduria back its dignity. When he founded the Felline winery in 1992, Primitivo was still a mass-produced commodity for tanker exports – cheap blended wine without prestige. Perrucci recognised the potential of the grape variety and began to systematically investigate the terroirs around Manduria. With his Accademia dei Racemi, founded in 1996, he became a pioneer in the valorisation of indigenous Apulian varieties. Today, Felline is considered a reference for Primitivo di Manduria – thanks to its work on different types of soil (terra rossa, white earth, black earth, sand) and its uncompromising focus on quality. This basic Primitivo comes from different plots of the 120 hectares of vineyards, which are organically farmed. Hand-picked, vinified separately according to soil type, matured for six months in French barriques – a classic interpretation of the variety.

The grapes for Ettamiano are harvested when slightly overripe, a trick that the famous winegrowers' co-operative likes to use with great flair. The variety should show as much of its origin as possible, which is why they rely on short maturation and only use French barriques that have been used several times. Intense ruby red colour with violet reflections. At first sip, Ettamiano is a Primitivo that is characterised by its pleasantness, but at no time does it pander. The glass reveals hints of ripe but lively fruit, spicy notes of cinnamon, then cocoa and liquorice. The flavour is consistent and persistent, supported by a fresh and spicy note that keeps you coming back for more. Long finish. SUPERIORE.DE

Giravolta – a name with a history. This was the name of the racehorse that once galloped across the Pozzopalo stud farm and always turned round abruptly in front of the old tuff quarry. This "U-turn" gave the wine its name, but it is the terra bianca, the white earth, that characterises it. While the basic Primitivo comes from the Terra Rossa, the Giravolta grows on calcareous, white soil, created by the breaking up of limestone. The tuffy, stony composition ensures rapid water drainage, but the porous stones also store moisture for the roots.

Triusco comes from the estate's oldest plots in the classic DOC zone around Manduria. The Primitivo vines are deeply rooted in red sand/clay soil on a limestone base – ideal conditions for density and aromatic ripeness. After temperature-controlled fermentation, the wine matures for six months in barriques and a further four months in stainless steel. Dark ruby red in the glass with a violet tinge. Aromas of ripe blackberry, black cherry, some plum, cinnamon and tobacco. Soft, dense and spicy on the palate, with rich fruit, supple tannins and a warm, lingering final. An expressive Primitivo with structure, elegance and depth. SUPERIORE.DE

The Negroamaro grapes for the extremely delicate Calafuria come from vineyards that stretch along the Adriatic coast in Salento. The region boasts a long tradition of producing rosé wines from Negroamaro, a grape variety that best expresses its potential near the sea. Pale pink in colour, the bouquet has fruity citrus notes of grapefruit and orange blossom with hints of jasmine. Pleasantly fresh on the palate with excellent aromatic persistence and a delicate flavour. SUPERIORE.DE

Verdeca is a grape variety that hardly anyone knows – and that is no coincidence. For centuries, it was used as the base material for vermouth, was rarely vinified as a single variety and was considered too unspectacular for its own bottle. Yet its history is an ancient one: Greek in origin, it probably arrived in Apulia with the first settlers and became native to the sandy limestone soils of Salento. Masseria Li Veli has given it a stage with the Askos project – and the wine critics have responded. Askos Verdeca is the only Apulian white wine ever to be honoured by Gambero Rosso with its Tre Bicchieri.

Under the name Askos, Li Veli summarises a project in which long-forgotten, indigenous grape varieties are rediscovered and cultivated on the ideal terroir selected for them. The red Susumaniello grape is said to originate from the nearby Dalmatian coast and is one of the most exciting grape varieties in Puglia today, even though it is rarely vinified as a single variety.

For over three decades, this Salice Salentino Riserva has been the undisputed flagship of Cantine Due Palme – and a wine that proves year after year that greatness and a co-operative structure need not be a contradiction in terms. The Tre Bicchieri of the Gambero Rosso? For Selvarossa, this has long been a subscription. No other Apulian red wine has won this top award so consistently, and at a price-pleasure ratio that even cuvées four times more expensive regularly fail to achieve. The story of Selvarossa begins shortly after the turn of the millennium, when Angelo Maci – fourth generation of an old winemaking family and founder of Due Palme – realised his vision of uncompromising quality production. What began in 1989 with fifteen members now unites over a thousand winegrowers who together cultivate 2,500 hectares of vineyards in the provinces of Brindisi, Lecce and Taranto. The name Selvarossa – "red forest" – refers to the characteristic red-coloured, clayey soils around Cellino San Marco, rich in minerals, graphite and iron oxides, which give the terroir its unmistakable character.

A name that doubles as a programme: the de Corato family and the Coratina olive variety not only share the same syllables, but also their homeland – the hills near Andria, where the Murgia slopes gently down to the Adriatic Sea. Here, in the shadow of Frederick II's legendary Castel del Monte, the family has been cultivating centuries-old olive groves since the 19th century. The Coratina is considered one of the most powerful varieties in Italy: rich in phenols, intense, with that distinctive bitter note that connoisseurs are looking for. Harvested by hand, cold-pressed on the day of harvest and matured for three months in glazed concrete tanks.

When the Antinori family founded their Apulian branch Tormaresca in 1998, they set an example: Southern Italy could deliver more than quantity. Torcicoda became proof of this vision – the first wine from Apulia to make it into the Wine Spectator Top 100. Its name refers to the historic grooming tool for horse manes, but also to the lush, twisting growth of the Primitivo vines, which were once called the "vine of three harvests".

An Aglianico from the south of Apulia – unusual in its origin, convincing in its expression. Dark wild berries, black cherry, a little dark chocolate and a hint of tar on the nose, accompanied by spicy nuances and Mediterranean herbs. Structured and powerful on the palate, with firm tannins, well-integrated acidity and a fine mineral vein. The ageing in barriques rounds off the texture without smoothing out the originality. Terra shows how much character Aglianico can also develop outside of its classic homeland: an independent, exciting wine with depth and regional character. SUPERIORE.DE

A Zinfandel with an Italian soul: Terra Nera Primitivo comes from organically farmed plots around Manduria, where old vines are rooted in red soil with limestone veins – a terroir that allows Primitivo (internationally: Zinfandel) to develop to its full potential. Rich purple in the glass with a garnet-red centre. The bouquet is dark, dense and multi-layered: blackcurrant, dried figs, dark chocolate, tobacco leaf, clove and a hint of graphite. Full-bodied on the palate, but not overloaded, with ripe fruit, balanced acidity and finely polished tannins. The use of wood remains discreet, the structure firm and the finish remarkably clear. An expressive, organically produced Primitivo from 60 to 70-year-old vines that skilfully combines power and precision! SUPERIORE.DE

The name reveals the concept: Cinquanta – fifty – stands for the fifty-fifty split between Primitivo and Negroamaro, the two leading grape varieties of Salento. With this cuvée, Cantine San Marzano, founded in 1962 as a winegrowers' cooperative and now one of the largest producers in Apulia with over 1,200 members, has created a wine with an immediate impact. The grapes come from vines of different ages on the iron oxide-rich terra rossa soils of the province of Taranto. After the harvest, maceration takes place at a controlled temperature, followed by twelve months of ageing in wooden barrels.

Il Falcone is a famous Riserva from the heart of the DOCG Castel del Monte, named after the famous hunting falcon of Emperor Frederick II. The Nero di Troia and Montepulciano grape varieties come from the best hillside vineyards at an altitude of 250 to 300 metres. After around 14 months of ageing in large wooden barrels and barriques, it presents a dark ruby colour with garnet-red reflections in the glass. Ripe blackberry, black cherry, tobacco leaf, some leather and balsamic herbs on the nose. Powerful yet finely balanced on the palate, with robust tannins, mineral tension and a spicy, long final. A serious, historic wine with elegance, structure and clear provenance. SUPERIORE.DE