Elvio Cogno

When people say "Novello", they mean "Barolo". The Cogno family cultivates around 15 hectares here, 9.5 of which are in the Ravera vineyard, and the fact that there is also one hectare of Moscato at an altitude of 400 metres is one of the estate's charming quirks. The vineyard is called Primo Bacio; with 4,000 vines per hectare trained on wires on sandy soil, the grapes are harvested in September. Gentle pressing, clarification and cool fermentation at 15 degrees using selected yeasts, without malolactic fermentation, result in a wine with an alcohol content of just 5.5% by volume.

The vines for this Dolcetto grow on the Ravera hillside in Novello, on soils rich in limestone, sand and clay with a gentle south-easterly aspect, at an altitude of around 380 metres above sea level. This plot is situated in Elvio Cogno's traditional wine-growing heartland and epitomises local provenance and authenticity. In the glass, Vigna del Mandorlo displays a vibrant ruby red colour. The expressive bouquet ranges from juicy cherry and blackberry to fresh, spicy notes. The combination of freshness, a soft texture and a delicate hint of almond on the finish lends the wine its harmonious elegance and drinking pleasure. On the palate, it impresses with its balanced structure: fruity density, lively acidity and gently structured tannins carry the fruit profile, with hints of bitter almond, right through to final clean final.

The Barbera vines for this wine are rooted in plots around Novello, partly in the renowned Ravera zone, on calcareous and clayey marl soils with good water retention. Deep ruby red in colour with a violet rim. The bouquet opens with ripe cherry, plum and blackcurrant, underpinned by violets, delicate herbal spice and a hint of liquorice. Full-bodied and harmonious on the palate, carried by juicy fruit and lively acidity that counteracts the warmth of the vintage with freshness. The tannins are soft but present and give the wine contour. Ageing for 12 months in large, used wooden barrels and a short period of maturation in the bottle round off the profile: a beautiful Barbera with a balance between fruitiness and elegance that is a true reflection of its origins. Outstanding value. SUPERIORE.DE

Montegrilli is a declaration of love for the Langhe terroir and a deliberate departure from the estate's Barolo style: there are no woody notes; instead, the focus here is on the pure essence of Nebbiolo. The grapes come from a vineyard covering just around 1.4 hectares in the Ravera area near Novello. They ripen on sandy, limestone-rich soil beneath the sun on the south-facing slopes, in a microcosm that ensures immediate, elegant freshness. Following hand-picking, fermentation takes place with indigenous yeasts in stainless steel, followed by eight months' ageing in steel.

A bright, luminous straw-yellow colour with a subtle greenish sheen – this is how this exceptional white wine presents itself in the glass. The grapes are 100% Nascetta, arguably the only indigenous white grape variety of the Langhe, which has been revived in Novello to a level far exceeding expectations – as a true expression of the region’s varietal diversity. The wine is aged in equal parts in stainless-steel tanks and in 15-hl Slavonian oak barrels – perfectly balanced to combine freshness with an enveloping structure.

The vines for this single-vineyard Barbera are rooted at the highest point of the hill in the renowned Ravera and Pasinotti vineyards near Novello. Grown on limestone- and clay-rich soils with a south-southeast aspect at an altitude of 300–400 metres, the wine reflects both elegance and a distinct sense of terroir. In the glass, it displays a radiant ruby red colour with a delicate purple sheen. The nose is deep and refined: notes of ripe wild berries, plum, rose and aromatic herbs unfold, accompanied by the scent of violets and a hint of oriental spices that lend depth. The fresh acidity enlivens the juicy fruit, whilst the fine tannins provide structure. The finish is long and spicy, with a slightly salty, mineral note – typical of the high altitudes of this spectacular Piedmont landscape. 

The Bordini vineyard in Neive, bathed in sunshine and situated on calcareous, slightly sandy soils, has been renowned for generations for producing Nebbiolo wines of natural vigour and refined structure. In the glass, it glows with a rich ruby colour and a subtle garnet sheen. The nose is inviting and multi-layered: juicy plum, ripe strawberry and the warm scent of crushed nutmeg interweave with rose petals, orange peel, a hint of dried herbs and subtle spice. On the palate, the wine reveals its dual nature – generous, red-fleshed fruit paired with the classic Nebbiolo structure that characterises Bordini. Velvety yet distinct tannins provide backbone, whilst the lively acidity balances the rich fruit and lends the full-bodied wine freshness and energy. The finish is long, spicy and threaded with a subtle mineral note – a Barbaresco full of expressiveness that harmoniously combines the essence of the vineyard and the vintage. SUPERIORE.DE

Elvio Cogno produced his first vintage in 1964 from the Brunate vineyard near Marcarini, initially on a voluntary basis and later as a partner in the estate; the wine is still regarded as legendary in Barolo to this day. In 1990, he fulfilled his own dream and bought an estate in Novello, in the heart of Ravera. The manor house, which gives the wine its name, also serves as the estate's headquarters. Cogno died in 2016; his daughter Nadia and son-in-law Valter Fissore have taken over the business, and with 9.5 hectares, the estate is one of the most significant producers in the area. Three hectares of Nebbiolo grow here on calcareous clay, at an altitude of 380 metres and on a south-facing slope; the vines are 23 years old on average. Fermentation takes place in stainless-steel tanks using wild yeasts; the wine is then left on the skins for 30 days with the cap submerged, matures for 24 months in large Slavonian oak barrels and spends a further six months in the bottle.

A rare and very limited-production wine that is more than just a Barbera: it is a living monument. The vines come from a tiny plot in the hamlet of Berri near La Morra, which was planted before the phylloxera epidemic (prefilossera) and survived it – ungrafted, without rootstock, a rare treasure that is now almost unique in Italy. The sandy-limestone soils and the southerly aspect give these grapes an intensity and clarity that is unmatched by any younger vineyard.

Barolo Ravera comes from a single vineyard with vines that are almost 50 years old. In the glass, it impresses with a strong, aromatic opening flavour. Bright, precise and finely chiselled, the Ravera captures everything good that the vintage has to offer. Cherry, sweet mint, candy and expressive floral notes are given an extra kick of inner sweetness by Ravera's natural energy. There is so much to look forward to as the wine develops over the next few years! SUPERIORE.DE

The Ravera vineyard on the Novello side, where steep hills descend from a castle perched on a beautiful panorama, is one of the best cru sites in the Barolo DOCG. From this vantage point, you can see Novello and the Elvio Cogno winery, which is located halfway up the slope. Valter Fissore's Ravera from the great 2021 vintage benefits from this special location and shows terrific versatility and depth every year.

Bricco Pernice, usually harvested slightly earlier, is a warm, south-facing plot in the prestigious Ravera vineyard at an altitude of 320 metres. Cognos Barolo offers the depth, richness and concentration that characterise this vineyard and the vintage. Blood orange, mint, sweet red cherry, star anise and a range of spicy notes lend it an impressive aromatic and flavour complexity. On the palate, it is medium-bodied, refined and expressive, with plenty to offer. Best of all, despite its potential, it is ready to drink after just a few years' bottle ageing. It is a graceful wine: polished, nuanced, elegant and impeccably balanced. SUPERIORE.DE

2019 is considered one of the vintage highlights of the last decade in Barolo: cool nights, sunny days and a long vegetation period led to perfectly balanced ripeness. In Bricco Pernice, this meant maximum aromatic clarity and structural depth. The high, south-westerly exposure in the Ravera cru site ensures an interplay of warmth and freshness, while the calcareous marl soils promote a taut, vertical style.

Barolo Ravera Vigna Elena Riserva DOCG 2018 is a monument to precision craftsmanship and at the same time a rare one-off: it comes from a pure planting of the historic Nebbiolo variety Nebbiolo Rosé – an independent, genetically distinct variety that almost disappeared from the Barolo vineyards over the course of the 20th century. Elvio Cogno and his family have consciously preserved this rare grape variety in the Vigna Elena monopoly position. The parcel is located in the upper Ravera zone near Novello, on poor, calcareous and clayey soils with optimal south-west exposure. The result is low yields, late-ripening grapes and a distinctive style: lighter colour, beguiling floral depth, fine, almost silky tannins and enormous aromatic precision.

Vigna Elena is a Ravera parcel of 1 hectare in size. Just 5,000 bottles of Cogno's famous Riserva come from here every year. The Vigna Elena 2019 has just the right balance between fruit and wood, which is often a real challenge in this category. The rather bright bouquet has red fruits and nuances of truffle, ash, dried citrus peel and pressed flowers. Elegant, brooding and powerful, as only a great Barolo can be, Vigna Elena possesses a wealth of nuances and dimensions from the very first sip. Exotic spice and orange peel notes, followed later by ripe raspberries, mocha and autumn leaves. The Vigna Elena 2019 is an absolute delight. SUPERIORE.DE

After decades at Marcarini, Elvio Cogno bought his own estate in Novello in 1990, in the heart of Ravera. A year later, the family planted a new vineyard, and in the same year he became a grandfather. The vines were named after the little girl: Elena, daughter of Nadia and Valter Fissore. To this day, the label features a chick that Elena drew herself when she was three years old. It would be hard to fit any more of her personal touch onto a bottle. Only the Nebbiolo clone "Rosé" was planted, chosen for its vibrant garnet-red colour and intense floral aromas.