Wines from Piedmont

An authentic expression of Piedmont: this pure Nebbiolo comes from young vines (from both the Tortona and Serravallo terroirs) at higher altitudes around Barolo, Novello and Sinio. Produced in a completely natural style and following traditional vinification methods, it reflects the purity of the grape variety in its purest form. Ageing in stainless steel, with a minimal proportion in neutral oak, emphasises this pure fruit and its origin without any masking.

Between the legendary Bricco Boschis and Monprivato crus lies a small parcel of just 2.25 hectares that epitomises Cavallotto's answer to the question: What does Barolo excellence taste like in Dolcetto format? The Vigna Scot, with its east-north-east exposure, benefits from the same chalky, clayey geology that gives the great Baroli their structure. The grapes undergo traditional vinification with indigenous yeasts and short 3-4 day maceration, followed by six months in 50-hectolitre Slavonian oak barrels and a further six months in concrete tanks. This double maturation creates the characteristic texture: structured but smooth.

Juice and power is the headline for this incredibly dense and fleshy Dolcetto, which already announces what awaits the senses with its rich ruby-purple colour. Lots of dark, sweet cherry, plus tobacco, leather and incense pour out of the glass and then hit the palate in concentrated form, embedded in a wonderful, silky, lush texture. Lavender, violets and white pepper can be found in the long, incredibly juicy finish. Roberto Voerzio proves once again here how you can make a fantastic, great wine from the Dolcetto grape, even away from the great Barolo wines in his repertoire, by reducing yields and being uncompromising! SUPERIORE.DE

Alto Piemonte is a real hidden gem. Nestled between Biella and the foothills of Monte Rosa lies Lessona – a small DOC region that was once just as famous as Barolo, but then fell into near-oblivion for decades as the textile industry emptied the hills and the vineyards were left to run wild. Paolo De Marchi, who had made his mark on Chianti Classico in Tuscany with Isole & Olena, returned to his family's homeland in 1999 with his son Luca and began what some simply call a 'rebuilding' – but which is, in reality, a long and determined struggle to revive a forgotten wine region.

In 1987, there were still 0.5 hectares of Timorasso in the whole of Piedmont. The grape variety, once widespread in the hills south-east of Turin, had almost disappeared due to phylloxera, structural change and lack of interest. Walter Massa rescued it – and brought it back into the dialogue. Giorgio Rivetti from La Spinetta, whose eye for exceptional terroirs has made his company great, recognised the potential and planted in Montemarzino, Montegioco and Monleale. Derthona – the ancient Roman name for Tortona, the capital of these hills – became the name of the wine. 100% Timorasso, south-west and south-east facing vineyards, organic cultivation. Destemming, gentle pressing, fermentation in temperature-controlled small stainless steel tanks. Then seven months on the fine lees – no malolactic fermentation, the acidity remains naturally lively. Four months in the bottle before release.

Light, bright straw yellow with a subtle greenish shimmer – is how this exceptional white wine appears in the glass. The grapes come 100% from Nascetta, probably the only autochthonous white wine variety in the Langhe, which has been revitalised in Novello far beyond eye level – as a true expression of the diversity of regional grape varieties. The wine is matured in equal parts in stainless steel tanks and Slavonian 15-litre oak barrels – precisely balanced to combine freshness with an enveloping structure.

"A quei tempi era sempre festa" – back then there was always a party. Thus begins Cesare Pavese's novel "La bella estate", written in 1940 and awarded the Premio Strega in 1950, a tale about those fleeting summers of youth when anything seems possible. It is no coincidence that Vite Colte named its Moscato Passito after this work: the Barolo cooperative has dedicated several of its wines to Piedmontese Liters– "La Luna e i Falò", also a Pavese title, adorns their award-winning Barbera d'Asti. It is a nod to their homeland, to the landscape of hills and mist that Pavese described so unmistakably.

While the Dolcetto is the uncomplicated everyday companion, the Barbera d'Alba from Elio Altare shows a different facet: fuller-bodied, warmer and with more structure. The 10 to 30-year-old vines are rooted in calcareous sandy soils in La Morra, mainly in eastern and north-eastern locations. The grapes macerate for three to four days in rotary fermenters at a controlled temperature, followed by a five-month maturation period in used French barriques – subtle enough not to overpower the fruit, present enough for complexity.

Dolcetto – is often dismissed as an uncomplicated everyday wine. Not so with Elena and Luca. For them, Dolcetto is the perfect introductory tool for young wine drinkers, their first encounter with the Langhe, so to speak. That's why they vinify it with the same dedication as their Nebbioli: the grapes come from three small vineyards in San Sebastiano (Monforte d'Alba), vines that are on average 40 years old in an area of exceptional biodiversity. Ten days of simple wild yeast fermentation with minimal pumping over, followed by spontaneous malolactic fermentation in the spring. Short barrel ageing, bottling in summer – the result is a Dolcetto that combines tradition and modernity.

Il Bacialé – in dialect "matchmaker" – brings together grape varieties that normally rarely meet: Barbera, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc. The grapes come from selected plots in the heart of Monferrato, whose gentle hills give the vines warmth and depth. After fermentation, the wine matures in wood, which gives it structure, finesse and good ageing potential. A successful liaison that marries tradition and international class in a pleasing way.

The vines of this single-vineyard Barbera are rooted at the highest point of the hill in the renowned Ravera and Pasinotti vineyards near Novello. Grown on soils rich in limestone and clay with a south-south-easterly exposure at an altitude of 300-400 metres, the wine reflects both elegance and a clear origin. The wine matures for around 12 months in large Slavonian wooden barrels, which give it depth without masking the freshness of the fruit.

2023 marks a quiet turning point in Castiglione Falletto: Eugenio Palumbo, at Vietti's side since 2011 and assistant to Luca Currado for many years, now has sole responsibility as cellar master – and the Perbacco is perhaps his most eloquent statement. This Langhe Nebbiolo brings together grapes from up to fifteen Barolo Cru vineyards and selected Barbaresco parcels in a single glass. Each parcel is vinified separately, matured for two years in oak, then Palumbo selects the lots for the assemblage – the rest matures further to become Barolo Castiglione.

Light ruby red with purple reflections. Red cherry, wild strawberry and pomegranate on the nose, with a hint of rosehip, violets and fine herbal spice. Silky and taut at the same time on the palate: slender, juicy fruit, precise acidity, very fine-grained tannins with a delicate grip. Nothing superfluous, everything in line – transparent, fresh, elegant. The finish is long, carried by minerality and a hint of bitter almond, yet always cool in appearance, clear and delicate in expression. A Pinot Nero that emphasises finesse and impresses with subtle class – ideal slightly chilled with poularde, veal or mushrooms. SUPERIORE.DE

Like an almost forgotten side branch of the great trunk of Piedmont, Freisa quietly tells stories of depth, character and identity. This long-established grape variety, closely related to the more famous Nebbiolo, produces wines full of structure, tannin and cool, dark fruit – and it is precisely this fascinating balance that we encounter here in its great version: dry, powerful and with an unmistakable profile. Freisa is not thought of as a marginal curiosity, but always as an independent voice – with the flavour, dignity and substance of a great, but with a temperament all of its own: deep, enigmatic and charismatic.

The Barbera grape belongs to Piedmont like the fog in October and tartufo in November. A natural companion of everyday life – the grape variety that has set the table on the hills of the Langhe for centuries. Ceretto has dedicated its own vineyard to this conviction: "La Piana", a flat valley on the edge of Alba on the Tenuta Monsordo Bernardina, traditionally known as one of the best addresses for Barbera in the municipality. The name is precise. 100% Barbera, organically farmed, harvested by hand and selected in the vineyard. Vinification follows the same principle as the vineyard itself: Only steel, controlled temperatures, no wood seasoning to overlay. Barbera does not need this – it has its own language, and it is expressive enough.

The grapes for Vignota come from five selected vineyards in Monforte d'Alba, whose calcareous marl soils with loamy and sandy inclusions give the Barbera grapes expression and depth. Bright ruby red colour with a purple hue. Aromas of ripe cherry, blackberry and plum, underpinned by violets, herbs and a hint of liquorice. Juicy and balanced on the palate, with present, well-integrated acidity and soft, fine-grained tannins. After fermentation, the wine matures for several months in used French barriques, which gives it additional harmony and fine spicy notes. An exciting and very serious Barbera with a regional profile and good structure. SUPERIORE.DE

βιαηκΩ is an exceptionally precise white wine made from Erbaluce grapes from the Boca micro-region; it is so rare and sought-after that it is allocated each year. Aged in large oak and acacia barrels, this wonderfully fresh and distinctive white wine has reached its peak with this vintage. It is well-structured, with good length, a floral, rich bouquet and plenty of charm. The fresh acidity on the finish makes the wine lively and long-lasting. Aromas of wild Alpine herbs and pears, with a hint of exotic fruits, are framed by a creamy texture and lead into a lingering final. SUPERIORE.DE

La Spinetta began in 1977 with Moscato. Today, Giorgio Rivetti is one of the most renowned Nebbiolo interpreters of Piedmont wine – more than 30 Tre Bicchieri awards speak for themselves. The Langhe Nebbiolo is the most accessible entry into this universe. The grapes come mainly from the Starderi vineyard in Neive, the cru from which La Spinetta produces one of its most important Barbareschi wines – complemented by selected parcels from Valeirano, Gallina and Campè. No other terroir, no other winemaker. Just a different age of the vines and a more accessible vinification: 14 to 15 days of maceration in steel, malolactic fermentation in used French barriques, then bottle ageing. Certified organic.