Wines from Friuli

Four grape varieties, one principle: uncompromising. While other winegrowers compose their cuvées according to formulas, Enzo Pontoni decides anew each year what proportions the vintage requires. Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc and the autochthonous Refosco (Tazzelenghe) – are combined in varying proportions, but always with the same signature. The vinification follows the rhythm of the decades. Merlot provides the dark fruit, Cabernet Sauvignon the structure, Cabernet Franc the vegetal finesse – and Refosco the indomitable acidity that gives the wine its backbone. The components rest for twenty-four months in French barriques before Enzo marries them to create a cuvée that is more than the sum of its parts.

The winery's flagship white wine is called Studio di Bianco and is a blend of 40% Friulano, 35% Sauvignon Blanc and 25% Riesling, aged for 10 months in large barrels. It is an exceptional white wine, certainly one of the best in Italy, with a unique energy and tension that is reflected in a complex bouquet. A cornucopia of floral aromas, stone fruit, peach cake, honey and vanilla cream explode in the glass. The medium-bodied texture of the wine finishes smooth and very defined, revealing a unique complexity and elegance. The total production per vintage is just 1,900 bottles and anyone who has had this wine in their glass at least once in their life should consider themselves lucky. SUPERIORE.DE

Amber-coloured grappa made from the marc of selected grapes from Friuli with an ageing period of eight years in small barrels of various woods. Soft, elegant bouquet, complex, velvety and persistent on the palate. We discover fruity and floral notes, vanilla and almonds, dried fruit and grapes. Serve this fine Riserva at room temperature in balloon-shaped glasses and allow the distillate to rest in the glass for a few minutes to allow the flavours to come into their own in full harmony. No added colourings. SUPERIORE.DE

On 27 November 1984, Benito and Giannola Nonino created something that had never existed before: ÙE, a grape brandy distilled together from the skin, pulp and juice. Not grappa, not brandy – something unique that combines the elegance of one with the character of the other. They had to fight for ministerial authorisation; today, half the distilling world follows their model. This Gran Riserva continues the legacy: exclusively Monovitigno Merlot from Friuli, harvested at optimum ripeness and processed immediately. Fermentation takes place anaerobically in stainless steel, distillation slowly in Benito's specially designed copper steam stills. Then the journey begins in the sherry casks from Jerez de la Frontera – for twelve years under customs seal, without a drop of colouring.

"The wine must be nurtured until it is ready to face the world on its own." Mateja Gravner, Josko's daughter, describes the estate's philosophy more precisely than any technical specification ever could: every wine is a child that is raised until it can embody its own soul and character. For his 2016 Ribolla Gialla, this meant hand harvesting in the Dedno vineyard and Alberello training. After gentle pressing, the grapes are transferred to deeply buried Georgian qvevris, sealed with solid granite lids. There, in the darkness of the earth, spontaneous fermentation begins – without temperature control, without selected yeasts, on the skins for seven months. After the amphora comes six years in large Slavonian botti, followed by half a year of bottle ageing. No fining, no filtration.

The Rosso della Centa is a 100% Merlot that comes from a small vineyard on the south-western slopes of the hills of San Giorgio in Brazzano. Red grapes are grown on this one-hectare plot of land, most of them Merlot. The soil of this marvellous field is typical of the Collio, as it was formed by the fragmentation of the alternating layers of marl and sandstone that form the foundation of the hills. The slopes are very steep, which is why the field was terraced and stabilised with dry stone walls.

Aristocratic! The whole world regards Picolit as "la Regina delle Grappe" due to its character, harmony and the emotions it evokes with every sip. Pure and crystalline, its nose is reminiscent of full honeycombs, acacia flowers, ripe quinces, fresh Moscato and freshly picked figs. In the mouth, the sensations of the nose are confirmed with the additional flavour of bread crust. Very persistent aftertaste. SUPERIORE.DE

It is reported that the hermit Alemanno chose the hill of Rosazzo as his spiritual retreat in the year 800. Around 200 years later, the Augustinians taught the local population the principles of agriculture here. The Pignolo grape variety can also be traced back to this place until the end of the 18th century. Sensitive and low-yielding, it had almost disappeared by the end of the 19th century and was rediscovered and re-cultivated in Rosazzo.

Silvio Jermann was one of the first in Friuli to combine international grape varieties with local ones and to vinify them with Burgundian precision. This blend of Sauvignon, Chardonnay, Ribolla Gialla, Malvasia Istriana and Picolit comes from top-class vineyards near Farra d'Isonzo and Dolegna del Collio, on marl and sandstone soils with a perfect microclimate. 

"Calvari" Refosco is Paolo Meroi's masterpiece - a wine that explores the potential of the autochthonous Refosco dal Peduncolo Rosso to its limits and is only produced 2-3 times per decade. The grapes come from ancient, tiny, low-yielding vines in a tiny, south-west-facing plot above Buttrio. The barren Ponca soil, strict selection and uncompromising manual labour make this wine a true rarity. The 2020 vintage, characterised by a harmonious vegetation cycle with a balanced sun and rainfall profile, produced perfectly ripe, concentrated berries with exceptional aromatic tension. After manual harvesting and gentle mash fermentation, "Calvari" matured for 24 months in French barriques before maturing for a further two years in the bottle.

Vintage Tunina is predominantly made from Sauvignon and Chardonnay. There are also small amounts of Ribolla Gialla, Malvasia Istriana and Picolit. Bright golden yellow in colour, the intense, very elegant bouquet shows notes of honey and meadow flowers. Dry, soft, very fruity flavour with excellent persistence, fine spiciness and full body. SUPERIORE.DE

On 27 November 1984, Benito and Giannola Nonino created something that had never existed before: ÙE, a grape brandy distilled together from the skin, pulp and juice. Not grappa, not brandy – something unique that combines the elegance of one with the character of the other. They had to fight for ministerial authorisation; today, half the distilling world follows their model. This Gran Riserva continues the legacy: exclusively Monovitigno Merlot from Friuli, harvested at optimum ripeness and processed immediately. Fermentation takes place anaerobically in stainless steel, distillation slowly in Benito's specially designed copper steam stills. Then the journey begins in the sherry casks from Jerez de la Frontera – for twelve years under customs seal, without a drop of colouring.

The 2021 "L'Arcione" vintage is currently somewhat younger, but already has a promising structure. The cuvée of Merlot and Refosco dal Peduncolo Rosso comes from selected vineyards in the Colli Orientali, characterised by mineral marl rock and careful hand-picking. The wine is matured separately in barriques as usual, followed by ageing in large wooden barrels. In 2021, a balanced climate with cool nights and a warm ripening phase ensured precision and freshness.

2020 was a challenging year in Collio, characterised by a warm spring, extreme weather at times and a hot, dry summer. The harvest required precision and patience - and that is exactly what the "M" has in its blood. The estate's top-quality Friulano comes from old vines in the best locations around Capriva, which combine low yields with an intense concentration of flavours. The vinification process is purist as usual: slow fermentation in stainless steel, long contact with the lees and plenty of time for internal clarification.

In the vast universe of Italian wine, we can name only a few red wines that inspire as much fascination, even awe, as those of Josko Gravner. And so Rosso Breg should not be missing from our list of Italy's greatest red wines. Today's 2009 fermented for more than a year on its skins in wooden barrels, then in underground amphorae, after which it matured for five years in barrel and five more in bottle before being released. And yet it is the youngest red wine ever released from Josko's cellar!

Even if you consider yourself a Josko Gravner disciple, there is a good chance that you have never tasted or seen his epic red wine. Rujno is Josko Gravner's rarest and most age-worthy red wine: unlike the pure Rosso, Rujno matures twice as long and is only produced in exceptional vintages in vanishingly small quantities. It comes from a single old vineyard on the edge of Slovenia and consists mainly of Merlot with a dash of Cabernet, which matured for 84 months in the barrel and a further 84 months in the bottle before leaving the cellar. In total, over 15 years passed before it was released onto the market.

ÙE La Riserva dei Cent'anni is a blend of grape distillates from different grape varieties aged for over fourteen years in barriques. The aroma is soft, lively and full-bodied with a slight hint of spices (saffron, cinnamon, curry, nutmeg) and hints of dried fruit. Warm, soft, round, persistent and velvety on the palate.

This unique Monovitigno Riserva matured for 18 years in barrique no. 419 made of Nevers oak. Intense amber colour, intense aroma of bitter almonds and sultanas. Fruity, full and round in the mouth, the olfactory impressions are confirmed.

Three years after the Sherry Cask Gran Riserva, a second decision was made – and it was different. On 15 January 2004, Benito Nonino chose not the sweet heritage of Andalusia, but the austere elegance of French oak: Barrique No. 3994 from the forest of Nevers, that forest in Burgundy whose wood has been moulding the greatest cognacs and barolos for centuries. Where the sherry cask brings sweetness and fruit to the distillate, the Nevers (single cask) adds structure and depth. The wood is denser, the pores finer, the dialogue between grappa and cask is different – less embrace, more dialogue at eye level. They conducted this dialogue for twenty years, under the seal and constant surveillance of the customs authorities, while the world outside kept turning. On 21 March 2024 – the first day of spring – the seal was broken. The barrel released only 256 Liters, enough for exactly 365 numbered bottles. One bottle for each day of the year in which the maturation ended.

Unique in terms of innovation and research. Contrary to the Liters, which tends to advise aging more neutral distillates in barriques, this way the elegant fruity and floral characteristics of the Cabernet grapes are maintained. This unique Monovitigno Riserva matured for 18 years in barrique no. 60 made of Nevers oak. Intense amber in colour, it has a bouquet of apricot, apple and light jam that combines with almond, dried fruit and chocolate. Engaging and spicy in the mouth, the olfactory impressions are confirmed.

In 2021, the Nonino family presented the Nonino Riserva Aged 20 Years grappa matured under customs seal. There are 664 numbered bottles.

In 2022, the Nonino family presented the ÙE Cru Schioppettino "18 anni" Monovitigno Riserva, matured for 18 years under customs seal in Nevers oak barrel no. 405. There are 460 numbered 0.70 litre bottles.

Livio Felluga has three wines that bear witness to the estate – wines that are not only among the best in his portfolio, but also part of Friuli’s history: Terre Alte, Picolit and the Sossò. The word comes from the Friulian language and refers to the slow, deliberate sipping – the opposite of drinking. A hint as to how this wine is intended to be enjoyed. Sossò brings together three characters from old vines in Rosazzo: Merlot provides the fullness and the smooth integration. Refosco dal Peduncolo Rosso – — named after its red stalk, documented in writing in Friuli as early as 1390, then the favourite drink of Livia, wife of Augustus – brings darkness, tannin and the wild side of this landscape. And Pignolo, the ‘pine cone’ – one of Italy’s rarest grape varieties, saved from extinction in the 1970s, with compact, pine-cone-shaped grapes and a naturally high tannin content – lends a complexity and longevity that no other vine in this region can match. Matured in small French oak barrels. Then bottle ageing in climate-controlled rooms.

Since the 2016 vintage, Livio Felluga's top wine Sossò has been maturing in the bottle for an extra year before being released for sale. This Riserva is a beautiful, rich and comforting red wine that is dense on the palate, imparting pretty cherry and dark fruit flavours with plenty of spice and tobacco. The extremely articulate flavour shoulders a convincing tannin portion and yet steers into an intensely fruity final with terrificlength. The wine simply glides forward with its unique feel and a dynamism that is slow and long-lasting. SUPERIORE.DE