Wine Enthusiast

It was at the Omino vineyard that Monica Raspi took her first steps as a winemaker after closing her veterinary practice. The vines were planted in the 1990s; they face west, are situated at an altitude of 360 metres and are organically farmed. The soil is poor, consisting of limestone and clay, but primarily Alberese – a limestone dating from the Eocene epoch – and the roots reach deep into the ground. The harvest begins by hand at the end of September; the must remains in contact with the skins for 21 days at 25 degrees. Ageing takes place partly in large oak barrels – 15 months in Slavonian oak – and partly in concrete tanks for 12 months. Just 2,500 bottles are produced, made from 100% Sangiovese.

Cartizze covers just over 100 hectares, and right in the middle of it, between Santo Stefano and San Pietro di Barbozza, lies Villa Sandi's La Rivetta vineyard. The slopes are steep and, in places, difficult to access; the vines are tended by hand, just as one would in a garden. The soil dates from the Miocene period; it is sandy, with calcareous sandstone and clay. Behind the estate stands the Polegato family: the grandfather purchased his first vineyards in the early 1920s. In the late 1970s, his grandsons Mario and Giancarlo acquired a villa in Crocetta del Montello, dating from 1622, which had once hosted Napoleon, and were among the first to export Prosecco abroad. The grapes are harvested in mid-September. The whole grapes are fed into the pneumatic press and gently pressed; the must is racked once. The second fermentation takes place at 15 to 16 degrees and is halted by cooling as soon as the alcohol and sugar levels are correct.

"Querciabella" – beautiful oak. The name suits an estate that has ranked among the defining producers of Chianti Classico since 1974. Sebastiano Cossia Castiglioni was one of the first in the region to convert to organic viticulture – as early as 1988, when the very idea of "organic" winegrowing still raised eyebrows. Today, Querciabella follows a rigorously organic approach, shaped both in the vineyard and in the cellar by a particularly mindful use of natural resources and clear ethical principles. That Daniele Cernilli (Dr. Wine) named the estate "Cantina dell'Anno" in 2024 came as little surprise to anyone familiar with these wines.

1172 – the year in which Volpaia is first mentioned in documents. A small, fortified borgo on a hill north of Radda in Chianti, built as a border fortress between Florence and Siena. Today it is a jewel of peace and beauty and one of the most historic wine villages in Tuscany. Here, where soldiers once stood guard, the Stianti-Mascheroni families now press their grapes within the medieval walls. The bottles mature in the vaults of old churches and almost every cellar contains a tank of organic wine. An entire village dedicated to viticulture. So complete that it becomes poetic again. The Riserva is made from 100% Sangiovese from vineyards between 400 and 600 metres above sea level. One of the highest wineries in the region. Up here, where the air is thin and the nights are cool, Sangiovese develops the elegance and minerality that makes Volpaia so distinctive. Sandstone, clay and sandy-loamy soils with a high proportion of skeleton. Manual harvest in the second half of September, temperature-controlled vinification, then 24 months in French and Slovenian oak barrels.

The estate has dedicated its single-vineyard wine made from Nerello Mascalese to the Musmeci family, particularly Ignazio Musmeci, who tended the vines at Rovittello for many years. Silvia Maestrelli, who sadly passed away far too young, founded Tenuta di Fessina in 2007, building her business around an old vineyard of this variety, which she acquired after lengthy negotiations with the previous owners. The suffix in the name takes us even further back, to the time before the phylloxera plague that once ravaged Europe's vineyards. Vines from that era are grown on their own roots, without the American rootstock onto which vines have been grafted almost everywhere since then, and are regarded as a mark of quality – and not just on Mount Etna.

Some vineyards become the property of a family through strategic acquisition, others through a marriage that unites two Piedmontese families. When Aldo Pola took Luisella from nearby Serracapelli as his wife, this union not only brought two people together, but also the Pola family with the cru that is now one of the most sought-after in the municipality of Neive: Serraboella. Here, on calcareous soils of medium structure, 300 metres above sea level, Nebbiolo thrives in an interpretation that differs from the powerful Bordini – more reserved in its youth, almost shy, but with an elegance that comes to full fruition over the years. What Matteo Pola vinifies from the 30-year-old vines of this single vineyard is a Barbaresco of remarkable harmony – a wine that impresses not with its volume, but with the crystalline precision that characterises great terroirs.

Like a precious legacy, this wine is steeped in the history of the Serristori patrician family, who acquired the Donoratico estate in 1512 and built the magnificent villa in 1660. From the shadow of these historic walls springs a wine that embodies the soul of the Tuscan Maremma – where the salty murmur of the Tyrrhenian Sea meets the warm hills of Bolgheri. In the vineyards of Argentiera – the estate within the Bolgheri DOC that lies closest to the coast and is also the highest in elevation – the grapes ripen amidst Mediterranean scrub and the endless blue of the archipelago. Here, on just twelve hectares of the Villa Donoratico vineyard, Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot take root in sandy and rocky soils, whilst the subsoil is permeated by marine flysch rock – a geological memory of seas long past.

There are stories that only the terroir can tell – and Roccato is one of them. What began in 1988 as a visionary experiment, an equal marriage of Sangiovese and Cabernet Sauvignon, developed into a legend of the Tuscan Renaissance. In 2015, Sergio Zingarelli took the decisive step. Based on decades of experience that the terroir speaks louder than the grape, the new Roccato was created: a single-varietal Cabernet Sauvignon from the "Poggio alle Pecchie" vineyard planted in 1996. A paradox of nature – a Bordeaux grape variety that actually breathes Tuscan soul.

The 48th edition of a wine that began in 1976 as a Franciacorta Pinot and has been continuously refined ever since. Since 2017, each bottling has borne its edition number – a commitment to transparency and to the uniqueness of each blend. The current blend combines 88% from the 2023 vintage with 10% reserve wines from 2022 and 2% from 2021, lending the wine both freshness and depth. The cuvée is sourced from 240 certified organic vineyards in Franciacorta: 80.5% Chardonnay for elegance and structure, 18% Pinot Nero for body and hints of red fruit, and 1.5% Pinot Bianco for aromatic finesse. Each grape passes through the estate's own washing and drying system before being gently processed. The base wines mature for seven months in temperature-controlled stainless-steel tanks; secondary fermentation takes place in the bottle, followed by 25 months' ageing on the lees.

Only one wine at a time bears the estate's name – and there is a reason for this. The Montecucco Rosso Riserva is the centrepiece of the estate's production: the wine that most directly expresses the estate's philosophy. Italian passion meets Swiss precision – that is how the Tipa Bertarelli family themselves describe their approach. In the glass, it impresses anew every year. 80% Sangiovese, 10% Ciliegiolo, 10% Cabernet Sauvignon – grapes from vineyards on sandstone, marl and clay at an altitude of 300 metres. Spontaneous fermentation on natural yeasts in temperature-controlled stainless-steel tanks, followed by 16 months' ageing: the Sangiovese in 40-hectolitre oak barrels, the Ciliegiolo and Cabernet inLiters French oakLiters.

Feudi's Riserva Piano di Montevergine is only vinified in outstanding years. The wine has a very impressive concentration and great richness in every vintage. Dark and brooding on first impression, it slowly awakens in the glass with a captivating blend of menthol, mint and exotic spices that evolves with a lively note of cinnamon-dusted redcurrant. This velvety-smooth and elegant wine appears heavy at first, but is quickly enlivened by a core of vibrant acidity and zesty citrus notes that embellish the tart black fruits. The tannins on the finish are sweet and chalky, while notes of wild red plum and blood orange keep the tasterer coming back for more. SUPERIORE.DE

This Riserva is only made available each year in very small quantities to hand-picked specialist retailers and top restaurants. Brilliant ruby red colour. Fine raspberry and floral notes dominate the spicy nose. Very juicy on the palate, tannins and acidity are well integrated. Riecines Riserva has length and suppleness right through to the long fruity finish. The elegance and fine melting texture are impressive. Once again, this is Sangiovese at the top level that Riecine is known for! SUPERIORE.DE

Feudo di Mezzo is one of the most prestigious contrade on the northern slope of Mount Etna, a place where viticulture and volcanic rock have had a symbiotic relationship for centuries. At an altitude of around 600 metres, old Nerello Mascalese vines take root here in porous, ferrous ash, interspersed with lava boulders and basalt veins – a soil that gives the wine finesse, tension and depth. Alta Mora is Cusumano's ambitious project on Etna, and Feudo di Mezzo epitomises this vision: single-varietal, rigorously selected, with maximum focus on origin and character. The 2019 vintage on Mount Etna was characterised by elegance: a cool spring followed by a long, dry summer with cool nights. The grapes ripened slowly and harmoniously, with fine phenolic ripeness and a balanced acidity structure. After manual harvesting, fermentation took place with gentle maceration, followed by 12 months of maturation in French tonneaux and a long period of rest in the bottle.

Rosso del Conte was Sicily's first answer to the question of whether the island could produce wines of international standing and longevity. Conte Giuseppe posed this question in 1970 – and the answer has been contained in every bottle produced on the high hills of Tenuta Regaleali ever since. The grapes – Nero d'Avola, Perricone and a small proportion of other varieties grown on the estate – ripen at an altitude of 480 metres, facing south-southeast, on loamy-sandy, slightly calcareous soil, trained using the Alberello system. Hand-harvested, traditionally fermented in stainless steel at a controlled temperature, 20 days on the skins, 18 months in new French barriques.

Milo is the only municipality on the entire slopes of Mount Etna whose white wines are permitted to bear the suffix "superiore". This distinction was enshrined in the DOC regulations in 1968 – and reflects the microclimate of this eastern flank: twice the rainfall compared to the north-facing slopes, an easterly aspect towards the Ionian Sea, cooling sea breezes, and volcanic soils composed of ash and Ripiddu lapilli. In the mists of the summer nights that Marco de Grazia describes in his writings on Milo, the Carricante ripens here to a level of precision it achieves nowhere else on the volcano.

The name alone reveals the poetry of this vintage sparkling wine. For decades, Perlé has been considered the essence of Ferrari's art, born from a meticulous selection of the best Chardonnay grapes from the Trentino mountains. The grapes for this Millesimato come from altitudes between 300 and 600 metres. Here, where the vines are bathed in mountain sunshine throughout the day but rest at night in the cool mountain air, the Chardonnay develops the mineral depth and aromatic complexity that makes Perlé so unmistakable. The Lunelli family only selects the very best batches – the grapes that most purely reflect the terroir. Perlé matures for almost five years on the fine yeasts – an exceptionally patient maturation period that gives the sparkling wine its characteristic creaminess and delicate yeast notes that harmonise perfectly with the fruity elegance of the Chardonnay.

The grapes for the Cortazo are grown in the hot Brenntal vineyard in Kurtatsch, which is ideal for ensuring the Cabernet Sauvignon reaches the required level of ripeness. A deep ruby red colour. A harmonious bouquet of violets and wild berries. On the palate, it is full-bodied and complex, with a lovely core of fruit and subtle extract sweetness, velvety tannins and a long finish. Excellent Storage potential. SUPERIORE.DE

Before individual vineyards became a currency, Barolo was an idea. An idea that combined different soils, different slopes, different communities into one whole – and created a complexity that no single vineyard could achieve on its own. Davide Rosso sticks to this idea. His Barolo DOCG combines grapes from three municipalities in equal parts: Serralunga d'Alba with its hard limestone marls and uncompromising tannin structure, Castiglione Falletto with somewhat lighter, sandy soils and a natural aromatic suppleness, and the commune of Barolo itself, whose Tortonian soils lend the Nebbiolo a floral, accessible side.

Anyone looking for the hardest terroir in the Barolo zone will inevitably end up in Serralunga d'Alba. The whitish limestone marl soils of the Helvetian formation – compacted, rich in minerals, barren – give the Nebbiolo here a rigour that is not found elsewhere in the Langhe. No flattery, no quick opening. Instead: structure, depth, staying power. The Rosso family has been cultivating these soils for over a century. For the Barolo del Comune, Davide Rosso draws from four parcels that cover the entire breadth of the municipality: Costa Bella in the northern part, south-facing; Broglio, sandy and east-facing in the heart of Serralunga; Sorano, clay-rich, also east-facing; and Meriame, limestone-rich, a more recent acquisition. No single site dominates, the goal is a wine that represents Serralunga as a whole, not just one facet. Hand-picked in mid-October, spontaneous fermentation in concrete tanks for 25 days with daily pumping over and a délestage at half-time. Maturation in 50-hectolitre French oak barrels for 18 to 36 months, depending on the origin of the grapes. Bottled without filtration.

Donnafugata's "Dolce & Gabbana" Limited Edition represents the collaboration between two iconic brands that are recognised beyond the country's borders as ambassadors of Sicilian culture and Italian excellence. The joint commitment of these two companies to elegance, craftsmanship and creativity brilliantly reinterprets this historic cuvée of the winery. To mark the occasion, Tancredi has been given an exclusive Dolce & Gabbana label since the 2018 vintage, with an aesthetic that pays homage to both Italy's baroque-aristocratic tradition and the revolutionary values that emerged in Sicily after the country's unification. This noble Sicilian is made mainly from Nero d'Avola and Cabernet Sauvignon, the latter enriching the aroma spectrum with a subtle minty facet. In addition, the bouquet is refined by sweet mineral graphite, tones of liquorice, cocoa, sour cherries and blueberries. The excellent, broad and enveloping flavour structure is confirmed in the final of considerable length. SUPERIORE.DE

Sotto Casa – in the truest sense of the word: the single vineyard of the same name lies directly next to the winery, on stony alluvial soil – the most intimate vineyard on the entire estate and the only one from which Boscarelli combines international grape varieties with Prugnolo Gentile. Cabernet Sauvignon provides structure and a tannic frame, a small proportion of Merlot gives fullness and softness – sangiovese remains the soul. The three varieties are harvested separately, fermented separately – in oak vats with natural yeasts for around 10 days at controlled temperatures. Each cuvée then matures separately in Slavonia and Allier oak between 3 and 30 hectolitres, depending on the varietal character. Blending only takes place at the end of the 28 to 32 months of maturation.

In 1398, Ser Lapo Mazzei wrote a letter in which the word "Chianti" was used for the first time in the modern sense of wine. It is the oldest document of its kind. The family who wrote this letter still makes wine today – they have been doing so for more than 600 years, now in their seventeenth generation. When a family dynasty with such a long history arrived in the Maremma in 1997 and decided to produce its flagship wine on the sandy soils between Grosseto and Montiano, it was a testament to their faith in that terroir. The philosophy is clearly articulated: Tenuta Belguardo is released only in the finest vintages. No compromises. Since the first vintage in 2000, this approach has defined the positioning of the cru: not quantity, but character. 85% Cabernet Sauvignon from plots with the highest proportion of sandstone and skeletal material, which demand of the Cabernet that balance between natural power and elegance that would not emerge in this way on heavier soil. 15% Cabernet Franc acts as the perfect counterpoint: structuring, herbaceous, and characterised by freshness even in hot vintages.

Amarone Classico is made from grapes grown in the vineyards of the classic Valpolicella area at the entrance to the Marano Valley. The drying process of the carefully selected grapes takes around 120 days. After fermentation, the wine matures for at least 3 years in wooden barrels.

A name carries weight when it is the programme. Stilèma – derived from "Stile" and the name Mastroberardino – is not a marketing term, but a commitment. It was Antonio Mastroberardino, known as the "archaeologist of vineyards", who began digging in the early 2000s: experimental projects, selection of pre-phylloxeric clones, revision of all protocols in the vineyard and cellar. His goal was not a new style – it was a return to a lost one. The great white wines of Irpinia from the 1970s and 1980s had a density, a texture, a depth that later decades could not match. Stilèma was not intended to preserve this memory, but to translate it into the present.