Wine Enthusiast

Sotto Casa – in the truest sense of the word: the single vineyard of the same name lies directly next to the winery, on stony alluvial soil – the most intimate vineyard on the entire estate and the only one from which Boscarelli combines international grape varieties with Prugnolo Gentile. Cabernet Sauvignon provides structure and a tannic frame, a small proportion of Merlot gives fullness and softness – sangiovese remains the soul. The three varieties are harvested separately, fermented separately – in oak vats with natural yeasts for around 10 days at controlled temperatures. Each cuvée then matures separately in Slavonia and Allier oak between 3 and 30 hectolitres, depending on the varietal character. Blending only takes place at the end of the 28 to 32 months of maturation.

In 1398, Ser Lapo Mazzei wrote a letter in which the word "Chianti" is used in the modern sense of wine for the first time. The oldest document of its kind. The family that wrote this letter is still making wine today – for more than 600 years, now in its seventeenth generation. When a family dynasty of this depth comes to the Maremma in 1997 and decides to grow its most important wine on the sandy soils between Grosseto and Montiano, it is a vote of confidence in a terroir. The philosophy is clearly formulated: Tenuta Belguardo only releases in the best vintages. No compromises. Since the first vintage in 2000, this attitude has defined the positioning of the cru: not quantity, but statement. 85% Cabernet Sauvignon from parcels with the highest proportion of sandstone and skeleton, which demand from the Cabernet a balance between natural power and elegance that would not be achieved on heavier soil. 15% Cabernet Franc is the perfect counterpart: structured, herbal, characterised by freshness even in hot vintages.

Amarone Classico is made from grapes grown in the vineyards of the classic Valpolicella area at the entrance to the Marano Valley. The drying process of the carefully selected grapes takes around 120 days. After fermentation, the wine matures for at least 3 years in wooden barrels.

An archaic red from the volcano – feudo di Mezzo already carries the weight of its origin in its name: the name refers to the central area of the Passopisciaro Valley at an altitude of around 600 metres. The 2018 vintage on the Etna slopes in Passopisciaro was warm and balanced with freshness from the cooling winds. The grapes achieved ripe juiciness with a lively structure – a vintage that allows balance and at the same time shapes character. The cuvée comes from 95% Nerello Mascalese and 5% Nerello Cappuccio from old vines, traditionally trained in Alberello. Deep-rooted vines, volcanic rubble and pumice soil, mineral, permeable, characterised by thermal influences – this is Etna terroir in its purest form.

A name carries weight when it is the programme. Stilèma – derived from "Stile" and the name Mastroberardino – is not a marketing term, but a commitment. It was Antonio Mastroberardino, known as the "archaeologist of vineyards", who began digging in the early 2000s: experimental projects, selection of pre-phylloxeric clones, revision of all protocols in the vineyard and cellar. His goal was not a new style – it was a return to a lost one. The great white wines of Irpinia from the 1970s and 1980s had a density, a texture, a depth that later decades could not match. Stilèma was not intended to preserve this memory, but to translate it into the present.

Lis is a mixed blend of Pinot Grigio, Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc and is one of the house's top wines. It has a wonderfully complex aroma of citrus and passion fruit, yellow apple and an initially barely perceptible flavour lead from the Sauvignon Bianco. All elements of this cuvée are equally and masterfully married on the palate, the mouthfeel is soft and round. This complex and at the same time elegant white wine, with its subtle pressure, whets the appetite for more and inevitably casts a spell over every Friuli fan. SUPERIORE.DE

Our team drinks this after work, our very special insider recommendation for purists: finely balanced and very elegant Prosecco Millesimato Spumante Superiore with a shiny golden colour and green reflections. Floral bouquet, fine perlage and elegant flavours of pear and white fruit, which lend the aristocratic, dry structure a great deal of elegance and length. This is not an everyday occurrence, even in the noble DOCG Conegliano Valdobbiadene! SUPERIORE.DE

Pliocene clays retain moisture. In a dry, hot year like 2020, this is not merely an agricultural detail, but a survival strategy. The clay soils of Poggio Landi, situated 300 to 500 metres above Torrenieri, provided a natural buffer against the summer drought that put large parts of Montalcino under strain that year. The organically farmed vines, with their deeper, more active root systems, played their part. The result is a Brunello full of concentration and character. Herbal and spicy notes on the nose – wild herbs, fennel and oregano – followed by sweet cherry and tamarind. Two weeks of spontaneous fermentation, 38 months in large French oak barrels, and 6 months in bottle.

The Pianodario vineyard is situated at an average altitude of 775 metres above sea level, between the hamlet of Montelaguardia and Randazzo. It comprises approximately 8 hectares of vineyards. The soils are of volcanic origin and date back up to 40,000 years.

Tasca became involved with Mount Etna at an early stage, and the latest result of this long-standing experience is four new single-vineyard wines from the Tascante estate: Contrada Rampante, Pianodario, Sciaranuova and Sciaranuova Vigna Vecchia (V.V.). The wines are delicate and brooding, and despite their power, acidity and firm tannins, they are very elegant, full of finesse and light on the palate. Each of the four plots lends the wine a slightly different style and character – determined by the altitude, soil composition and morphology of the historic lava flows. High annual rainfall ensures the soil has ample water reserves, and the temperature fluctuations between day and night enhance the diversity of the grapes' aromas and, ultimately, their ageing potential.

On the nose, ripe plum, baking spice, menthol and new leather. On the elegantly structured, delicious palate, notes of ground pepper and liquorice accentuate a core of juicy black cherry and crushed raspberry, supported by a backbone of taut, refined tannins. The fresh acidity keeps it beautifully balanced. Racy and seductive. SUPERIORE.DE

Michele Satta is one of Italy's greatest ambassadors for the Viognier grape, which he has almost single-handedly brought to this part of the Tuscan coast. His Viognier is sophisticated and seductive, making it the object of desire for wine lovers all over the world. Its inimitable bouquet of apricot and peach exudes an almost cheerful floweriness. Maturation in a combination of cement, oak and amphorae gives this expressive, flavoursome white wine a beautiful note. A dense white wine that spreads softly across the palate with a lovely salty freshness and a long, delicious finish. From the 2024 vintage, it is a 100% Bianco from the Bolgheri DOC. SUPERIORE.DE

A tribute to Luigi, Valeria's father, without whose support the life project of Valeria Viganò and Luca Orsini in Panzano would never have been realised. Aluigi embodies the highest level of the art of Sangiovese from Le Cinciole – only 4,000 bottles are produced annually from the single vineyard "Campo ai Peri". This Gran Selezione comes from organically cultivated vineyards at an altitude of 440 metres, where south-west-facing vines are rooted in the characteristic Galestro soil over sandstone. The traditionally dense planting of 9,000 vines per hectare and the cool, high-altitude climate give the wine its characteristic elegance and complexity. Vinification follows the original principles of the estate: hand-picking and careful selection of the grapes, spontaneous fermentation with wild yeasts in cement tanks for four weeks. After malolactic fermentation, the wine matures for 24 months in French oak barrels of 25 hectolitres, followed by a further year in concrete and twelve months of bottle ageing.

The road to Sant'Angelo in Colle leads to the south-west side of the Montalcino hill. Here lies the Tenuta Il Poggione – one of the oldest and most reliable houses in the appellation. Lavinio Franceschi, a Florentine landowner, bought the estate at the end of the 19th century after, it is said, hearing about the beauty of these hills from a shepherd. He was one of the first to market Brunello under this name and one of the founders of the consortium. Today, the fourth generation – leopoldo and Livia Franceschi – run the estate with 140 hectares of vines, the oldest vines up to 60 years old and a philosophy that has not fundamentally changed in a century.

Petit Verdot is a grape variety that the world is wary of. In Bordeaux, it is used to add flavour – a few per cent, hardly more. As a stand-alone, pure variety, taking centre stage: hardly anyone dares to do that. Tua Rita took the plunge for the first time in 2017. 60% Petit Verdot from young vineyards on heavily clay-rich soils of the Colline Metallifere, 40% Merlot from 35-year-old vines. "Esuberante e maturo", as the winery itself puts it. A duet of exuberance and maturity. The Petit Verdot comes from vineyards planted in 2011 – young, but in a location that needs no introduction: iron-rich clay, mineral depth, sea breezes from the Piombino Channel. The Merlot comes from the old plots that have defined the estate's reputation for decades. Hand-harvested, fermented in wooden tanks, then aged for 18 months in French and American oak barriques – the wood acting as a dialogue, not a monologue.

In the 12th century, a man named Ugolforte led the rebellion of the citizens of Montalcino against the superior power of Siena. A bandit for some, a freedom fighter for others – his name has survived the centuries in the stories told in the hills. Today it is on the label of a Brunello that carries this indomitable spirit. Tenuta San Giorgio is located in Castelnuovo dell'Abate, in the south-east of Montalcino, just a few kilometres from the thousand-year-old Abbey of Sant'Antimo. Founded in 1982 – in the same year that Grattamacco bottled its first vintage – the winery joined the ColleMassari group of the Tipa-Bertarelli family in 2016. Since then, it has shared the terroir with the legendary Poggio di Sotto: the same slopes, the same winds, the same philosophy. 28 hectares of Sangiovese on south-eastern slopes between 300 and 450 metres, embedded in 110 hectares of forest, which protects biodiversity and shapes the microclimate. The soils read like a geological poem: clay, galestro, tuff, red earth, white biancane, the proud Calanchi – and Monte Amiata, the extinct volcano, watches over everything.

Anadûron – this is the Celtic name for Naturns. Translated, it means "settlement on the marsh". A strange name for a village that lies on dry primary rock, criss-crossed by porphyry, granite and slate, on steep south-facing slopes between 600 and 900 metres. Not a trace of the swamp. Instead, thousands of years of geology speak through every glass of this wine. Franz Pratzner has created Anadûron as a tribute to Naturns and the entire Adige Valley – a selection of the estate's best Riesling parcels, which differs from regular Riesling not only in the selection, but in every step of the vinification process. Grapes of hand-picked quality, spontaneous fermentation in French tonneaux – not in large acacia wood barrels – followed by twelve months of ageing in tonneaux, five months in steel and finally 31 months in the bottle. Around four years from harvestto glass. No other wine from the estate is given more time.

It was 1991 when Michele Satta planted his first Syrah vine in Bolgheri – an act of rebellion in a still young appellation that was just beginning to find its identity. The visionary winemaker from Varese followed a clear conviction: The Syrah should maximise the aromatic complexity of the Mediterranean terroir and at the same time express his personal identification with the great wines of the Rhône. Thirty years later, this exotic wine has matured into one of Bolgheri's most fascinating single-vineyard wines.

Salcheto's sparkling garnet-red Vino Nobile delights us with its fragrant aroma of dried plum and a hint of cinnamon and clove. Lots of present fruit on the palate, with a fine, sweet melting flavour and a long finish. An authentic and pleasantly elegant organic wine from the heart of the Montepulciano region that is ready to drink when young. SUPERIORE.DE

1997 saw the birth of Bradisismo, named after the geological event that led to the formation of the Colli Berici. It is a successful symbiosis of the intense, concentrated flavour of ripe Cabernet cherries and the lively, spicy notes of Carménère. With its bouquet of small dark berries, spices, pepper and chocolate, it is a wonderfully inexpensive alternative to the great Bordeaux blends or Supertuscans. On the palate, it has a velvety texture, with a mix of dark fruits, cherries, floral notes and fine tannins that glide seamlessly over the palate. Deep, long finish and very good ageing potential. SUPERIORE.DE

The A in the name of Boggina stands for the natural wine aged for around 6 months in 400-600 Liters terracotta amphorae, which is bottled in a run of just 5,000 bottles without the addition of sulphites. Light, bright garnet red in colour. The bouquet is ethereal, very delicate and nuanced, with a very precise interpretation of the fragrance of the Sangiovese grape. Medium-bodied on the palate, with an exceptionally beautiful structure and authentic Sangiovese fruit with a salty vein. The finish is highly drinkable, with silky tannins and beguiling length. A masterpiece of beauty and elegance. SUPERIORE.DE