VINOUS

Only one wine ever bears the name of the estate – and there is a reason for this. The Montecucco Rosso Riserva is the centrepiece of production: the wine that most directly expresses the philosophy of the estate. Italian passion meets Swiss precision – is how the Tipa Bertarelli family itself describes its approach. In the glass, this is convincing every year anew. 80% Sangiovese, 10% Ciliegiolo, 10% Cabernet Sauvignon – grapes from vineyards on sandstone, marl and clay at 300 metres. Spontaneous fermentation on natural yeast in temperature-controlled steel tanks, followed by 16 months of ageing: the Sangiovese in 40-hectolitre oak barrels, Ciliegiolo and Cabernet in 500-litre French oak Liters.

In the 1820s, wine merchants knew three Bardolino crus that existed in Switzerland's grand hotels alongside Burgundy and Beaujolais. In 1968, they were lost in the DOC regulations. They have been back since 2021 – and Montebaldo, the northernmost and highest subzone on the foothills of Monte Baldo, is perhaps the most exciting. Guerrieri Rizzardi's response to this rediscovery: 95 per cent Corvina – the highest percentage the winery has ever bottled –supplemented by a touch of Rondinella, vinified completely without wood. This is not a concession to light summer enjoyment. It is a statement about transparency: the grape speaks exclusively here, and the moraine soil of Cavaion gives it a resonance chamber.

Federico II di Svevia, Emperor of the Holy Roman Empire and King of Sicily, had a special affection for the hills around Monte Vulture. Here, in Basilicata, he had castles built that still stand today. And he loved the wines of the Vulture – those deep, mineral reds that came from the lava soils of the extinct volcano. The Terre degli Svevi estate, founded in 1998, honours his legacy with the name of its flagship wine: Re Manfredi – king Manfred, his son, the fearless warrior. 100% Aglianico, grown at 420 metres in Venosa, on volcanic soil rich in calcium, nitrogen and tuff – the mineral foundation on which the character of this wine is built. A continental climate with harsh winters, hot summers and pronounced temperature fluctuations.

Zisola is the Tuscan dream of the Mazzei family in the south of Sicily. The winery's bestseller is made from 100% Nero d'Avola from traditional Alberello vines near Noto, where chalky soils and proximity to the sea balance the natural exuberance of this indigenous grape variety with freshness and elegance. The Marchesi Mazzei, one of Italy's most historic winegrowing families with over 600 years of tradition, have been continuing their Sicilian project since 2003. 24 hectares of vineyards surround the historic bagli of the 50-hectare tenuta with a view of the baroque UNESCO World Heritage Site of Noto. Hand-picked and fermented for 14-16 days at 26-28°C, the wine matures for 10 months in French oak barrels (33% new).

A red wine with character – irresistible in its depth and yet with supple elegance. Noras comes from 90% Cannonau (Grenache) and 10% Carignano and is harvested from old vines rooted in sandy-granitic soils deep in the Sulcis terroir. After late manual harvesting, the must ferments at a controlled 22-24 °C for 12 days in stainless steel tanks, accompanied by regular pumping over to optimise extraction. Malolactic fermentation takes place early and spontaneously, followed by around six months of maturation in used French barriques. Before it is released for sale, Noras matures for a further six months in the bottle – a maturation and ageing process that gives it depth and elegance.

Pietra nera – black stone. This is the name of the introduction to the world of Piaggia, the small winery in Carmignano founded by Mauro Vannucci in the 1970s and now run by his daughter Silvia. Carmignano, the forgotten DOCG at the gates of Florence, where Cabernet has been permitted in blends since the Medici era – centuries before the Super Tuscans were invented. Pietranera shows this tradition in small format: 80% Sangiovese, 20% Cabernet Franc. Fermented with natural yeasts, eighteen to twenty days on the skins, then only three months in used barriques – just enough to smooth the edges, not enough to let the wood taste.

In 1966, Vernaccia di San Gimignano became the first wine in Italy to be awarded DOC status. This was followed by DOCG status in 1993. A long history for a grape variety whose name derives from "vernacolo", meaning "local" or "native to the area": A grape so deeply intertwined with a place that it bears its name. Il Colombaio di Santa Chiara is situated on the San Donato hill, at an altitude of 250 to 360 metres, on sandy soils rich in stones and fossilised marine organisms: a fossilised sea beneath the Tuscan sky. Organically farmed, 5,000 vines per hectare, hand-harvested in the third week of September.

Three Dolcetto parcels in Neive and one wine: Cottà, Basarin and San Cristoforo consist of calcareous marl soils with sandy veins. The grapes are harvested selectively by hand; fermentation takes place spontaneously in stainless steel with a maceration period of around three weeks in order to gain flavour, grip and depth. The wine then rests exclusively in the tank on the fine lees until early bottling – without the use of wood, focussing entirely on precision and drinking flow.

Val di Suga is the only winery in the whole of Montalcino that has vineyards on all three important slopes of the denomination – north-west, south-east, south-west. Three exposures, three soil types, three microclimates. The basic Rosso is the direct expression of this diversity: a cuvée from young vines from all three sites, which unites the breadth of the territory in an accessible, lively wine. Bright ruby red in the glass. The nose reveals fresh red fruit, Morello cherry and a hint of orange peel – lively and precise. Fresh and round on the palate, with bright tannins and a juicy, animating finish. A wine for everyday drinking – but with the origin you can taste. SUPERIORE.DE

La Morra, calcareous sandy soils, north-eastern slopes – this is where the 20 to 40-year-old Dolcetto vines for Elio Altareclassic grow. The Barolo revolutionary, who shook up the Langhe with Burgundian vinification methods in the 1970s, remains true to his Dolcetto: a wine for every day, as the farmers have been drinking it with pasta for generations. Maceration takes just two to three days in rotary fermenters at a controlled temperature, after which the grapes mature for ten months in stainless steel tanks – puristic, without the influence of wood.

The hills between Valdobbiadene and Conegliano have been on the UNESCO World Heritage List since 2019 – as a cultural landscape where viticulture and the landscape have formed an inseparable whole for centuries. Steep slopes, terraces, manual labour, and a complexity of soils that makes industrial cultivation methods simply impossible. It is here, in the central hills of the classic zone, that Nino Franco sources the grapes for his most important wine. The estate was founded in 1919 by Primo Franco. His grandson – also named Primo Franco – , now runs it in the third generation with the same conviction: Prosecco from here is not an industrial drink, but the expression of an exceptional terroir. The Rustico is their calling card. 100% Glera, carefully selected, fermented using the Charmat method, with a delicacy of effervescence and freshness that demonstrates what distinguishes Valdobbiadene Superiore from ordinary Prosecco IGT.

An Aglianico with a strong character from the renowned Campi Taurasini sub-zone, vinified by Clelia Romano on the small, high-altitude Colli di Lapio vineyard. The vines grow on calcareous, volcanic soils around Lapio at an altitude of 450 to 550 metres – ideal conditions for structure, depth and freshness. The wine is first matured in stainless steel tanks, then in barriques for several months and finally in the bottle.

The name evokes a landscape. "Pearl of the Forest" – those ancient strips of macchia between the vineyards and the Tyrrhenian Sea, from whose herbs, pine trees and wildflowers the wind carries a daily bath of aromas into the vines. Tua Rita has been producing Vermentino since 1992 – the estate's very first vintage. Not an experiment, not a trend, but a firm commitment. 100% Vermentino from the mineral-rich soils of the Colline Metallifere. The vines are grown without topping – their shoots are allowed to spread out as a natural canopy over the grapes, protecting the bunches from heat stress and preserving the aromas. Fermentation and ageing take place in stainless steel: no wood to interfere between the grape variety and the terroir. "The trick is maintaining the acidity," says Stefano Frascolla.

Pojega is a historic vineyard next to the famous Pojega garden, which was purchased by the Rizzardi family in the 17th century. This single-vineyard Valpolicella skilfully combines the fruitiness and aromatic richness of the traditional grape, enhanced by the Ripasso method, with a well-proportioned body and exceptional finesse. Great value with an almost magnetic attraction! SUPERIORE.DE

Originating from the Piani range of hills in Ferrere/Treiso (west-facing, 250–350 metres), this Barbera combines old vines (planted in 1965/2005) and meticulous vineyard work to create a clear, characterful style. Around 15-20 days of maceration in stainless steel, followed by around 8-9 months of ageing in oak (part in barrique, the rest in large wood), then a few months of rest in the bottle.

In 2001, Michele and Massimo Bernetti of Umani Ronchi stood on Centovie Hill near Roseto degli Abruzzi. Before them lay the estate, behind it the Gran Sasso, and below it the Adriatic Sea. They bought the 35 hectares and immediately began farming organically – not as a certified commitment, but because the terroir demanded it: sunny and windy, with self-regulating soil requiring no intervention. They produced the estate"s first wine as a Pecorino. From the best plots of the vineyard, hand-harvested in early September with particular attention to acidity, on deep, clay-sandy limestone soil with alluvial skeleton. Fermented in steel, then 12 months in concrete tanks, followed by 5 months in bottle.

The name says it all: Meczan is the local dialect form of Mazzon – the high plateau to the east of the Adige Valley, at an altitude of 350 to 460 metres, with north-facing slopes and soils of limestone gravel and clay. What Paolo Foradori began to prove in the 1960s and Martin Foradori Hofstätter continues to develop today is now undisputed: Mazzon is Italy's most important location for Pinot Nero. The Meczan is the entry into this world. Some of the grapes are fermented without destemming to give the Pinot more structure and aromatic depth. Ten days on the skins, vinified exclusively in stainless steel.

Rosso di Montalcino exists because a count wanted it. When the Marone Cinzano family took over the estate in 1973, almost exclusively Brunello was bottled in Montalcino – the rest went into bulk. Count Alberto saw this "second wine" as more than a by-product and campaigned for the creation of an independent DOC. Rosso di Montalcino has had his name since 1983 – and Col d'Orcia played a decisive role in this. It comes from the south-facing vineyards of the estate at 250 metres, overlooking the Orcia River, which gave the estate its name. Biodynamically cultivated, calcareous soils, Sangiovese Grosso: the classic Montalcino foundation. In the cellar: temperature-controlled fermentation in shallow steel tanks for gentle extraction, then 10 to 12 months in large Slavonian oak barrels and cement tanks.

Valpolicella Superiore Case Vecie is made mainly from Corvina and Corvinone grapes. It takes its name from the vineyard of the same name in Grezzana, where the ripening of the grapes is subject to strong temperature fluctuations between day and night: a climatic peculiarity that gives the wine a special spiciness on the nose and a completely unique polyphenol profile. Bright ruby red in colour with notes of cherries, vanilla and spices. Beautiful fruit and acidity on the palate, wonderfully balanced body. Juicy and long. SUPERIORE.DE