Gambero-Rosso

Leonia is named after a woman who was a century ahead of her time in Tuscany: Leonia, Lamberto Frescobaldi's great-great-grandmother, planted French grape varieties in Pomino in the 19th century and pressed them in Italy's first gravity-fed cellar – a pioneering feat that was honoured with a gold medal in Paris in 1878. Today, her name stands for the estate's first Metodo Classico, made from Chardonnay and Pinot Nero. The grapes come from the high-altitude vineyards of Pomino, reaching up to around 700 metres above sea level. Harvested by hand, gently pressed and cold-settled for twelve hours, the must ferments in stainless steel tanks, with part of it in wood, before the classic bottle fermentation – involving a long period of ageing on the lees, riddling and disgorging – completes the wine.

The first vines were planted in 1952 on the ridge that today gives the wine its name. Poggio Lombrone – the hill overlooking the Ombrone Valley. Seventy years later, some of these vines are still standing. Their yield is low, their concentration exceptional. Whoever says cru means exactly that. The vineyard lies at 300 metres, the soils are tufaceous clays and calcareous marl slate – maremma terroir in its wildest and most concentrated form. Long fermentation in open wooden conical fermenters with manual punching down, complete malolactic fermentation, then 18 months in 30-hectolitre oak barrels, followed by at least 24 months in the bottle.

There are grape varieties that have to wait decades for a visionary to recognise their true potential. Trebbiano d'Abruzzo was one such forgotten variety until Gianni Masciarelli started a revolution in 1981 that changed the face of Abruzzo viticulture forever. He was the first producer in the region to introduce the Guyot training system and French barriques, driven by a philosophy he called "innovazione continua" – continuous innovation in the service of tradition. Today, the vineyards surrounding the historic Castello di Semivicoli combine the fruits of this vision with the poetry of a place that has itself experienced a rebirth. Here, between Gran Sasso and Majella at an altitude of 380 metres, two very special Trebbiano vineyards take root: one with vines over forty years old that still embody the original vigour of the variety, and a younger one that Gianni planted at the end of the 1990s using the modern Guyot system – a symbiosis of grown wisdom and innovative spirit.

High up on the southern slopes of Mount Etna, where the Contrada Manzuedda in Biancavilla rises towards the sky at an altitude of 900 metres, lies an extraordinary vineyard, as old as the dreams that gave rise to it. Here, between the eternal snow of the peaks and the flames of the volcano, where the first Carricante vines took root in the volcanic soil in 1950, A' Puddara, "the hen", is born. This is what the Sicilians call the Pleiades in their dialect – those seven sisters in the night sky who, in summer, shine from the sea above the volcanic peak. Silvia Maestrelli, Fessina's visionary pioneer who sadly passed away far too soon, dedicated this wine to the starry skies of her Sicilian nights – a fitting tribute to this island of dreams and fire.

La Grola is the eponymous, historic vineyard where Corvina, the indigenous grape of Valpolicella, is believed to have originated. The replanting of the vineyard by Giovanni Allegrini triggered an agronomic revolution and laid the foundations for the success of this wine-growing region, which today stands for convincing, great red wines from north-east Italy. With the 2022 vintage, La Grola returns to its origins: declared Valpolicella Classico Superiore DOC for the first time, it marks a new phase for this iconic wine from Allegrini. The cuvée of Corvina, Corvinone and Rondinella comes from the limestone terraces of the La Grola hill, exposed to the south-east and consistently selectively harvested. After fermentation in stainless steel, the wine is matured in barriques, some new, some used.

Don Antonio is not only a great and powerful wine, it is also a monument. Dedicated to the father of the Morgante family, this Nero d'Avola embodies the quintessence of the passion with which vines have been cultivated in the hills of Grotte for generations. The grapes come from old vines and the best altitudes of up to 500 metres, where day-night temperature fluctuations, limestone soils and the sea breeze favour a Mediterranean but wonderfully developed profile. After temperature-controlled fermentation, the wine is aged for twelve months in French barriques, followed by a further maturation phase in the bottle.

The grapes for the Carluccio "Carlo" Negri – named after the winery's key pioneer – come from vineyards in the Valtellina DOC and DOCG areas, situated on the slopes of the Rhaetian Alps along the right bank of the River Adda. Sfursat, for which the region is world-renowned, is produced through the natural drying of the grapes, aided by the cool, dry winds from the mountains. During this process, in the "fruttaio" (the drying shed), they lose almost 30% of their weight. The result is therefore a unique Nebbiolo: rich and intense, with the typical mineral and fresh character of Alpine wines.

The grapes for this high-calibre Valpolicella Classico Superiore come from the rather barren, calcareous and terraced vineyards of Tenuta Novare above the Ognisanti church. Wines of greater complexity, perfect structure and higher concentration are produced here than in most other vineyards in Valpolicella. Sparkling ruby-garnet colour. Fragrant nose with wonderful overtones of sour cherry, dried flowers and white pepper. Perfectly balanced on the palate with firm tannins and wonderful spice and depth of fruit thanks to the ageing in wood. A superior, winning wine from the heart of the Valpolicella region. SUPERIORE.DE

As early as 1716, Grand Duke Cosimo III included Valdarno di Sopra in his edict, alongside Chianti Classico, Carmignano and Pomino; the appellation itself was not established until 2011. Il Borro lies on the right bank of the Arno between Florence and Arezzo, and it is here that the Sangiovese matures in an ancient form of ageing: clay amphorae. The vines are organically cultivated on the estate, and the grapes are harvested by hand into 10-kilo crates. Fermentation takes place in the amphorae, where the cap of pomace is stirred by hand five to six times a day; the wine remains on the skins for eleven months. It is then aged for twelve months in the bottle. In the 2021 vintage, rain at the end of August ensured full ripeness, following a mild winter, a cool spring and an average summer.

An uncompromisingly natural Franciacorta: Essence Nature dispenses entirely with dosage and thus presents itself with clear purity, dry tension and precise fruit. The base consists mainly of Chardonnay, supplemented by Pinot Nero from carefully selected, moraine-rich vineyards. Pale straw yellow in the glass with a continuously fine perlage. Yellow citrus fruit, green apple, white acacia and a delicate hint of brioche are present on the nose. On the palate, this Dosaggio Zero is dry, lively and structured - with lively acidity, mineral freshness and a clear texture. The long finish remains focussed, with a delicate hint of bitter almond. A very puristic Franciacorta, fine and distinctive with just 1.90 g/l residual sugar - one of our absolute favourites! SUPERIORE.DE

In 1991, the personal and professional relationship between Gianni Masciarelli and his wife, Marina Cvetic, gave rise to the range that still bears their name today. The Montepulciano d'Abruzzo Riserva is their best-selling wine, available in 55 countries, and has played a key role in strengthening the reputation of this grape variety worldwide – today it is regarded as one of its most recognisable and distinctive expressions. The grapes come from four distinct vineyard sites around San Martino sulla Marrucina, at an altitude of 400 metres: Colle di Paolo, Fonte Filippo, Schiavone and Colle Rosina, on medium-textured clay soil, trained using the Guyot system, with vines aged between 15 and 30 years.

Tramin gave Gewürztraminer its name – and the world has since associated it with lush rose flavours, lychee and a body that likes to be heavy. Martin Foradori-Hofstätter thinks differently. With Vigna Castel Rechtenthal, he shows what this variety can do when the location is right and the winemaker does not stand in its way. The vineyard plot is located on a gravelly hill above Rechtenthal Castle, at the foot of Monte Roen – the highest peak in Tramin at 2,116 metres. The soil is an alluvial cone of dolomite gravel: permeable, cool and mineralised. The Höllentalbach stream intensifies the already fresh downdraughts that blow down from the mountain and significantly lower the temperatures at night. No other Gewürztraminer Tramin grows under such conditions.

The world-famous Nussbaumer Gewürztraminer has been a true benchmark for years and is also a wine that impresses with its ageing potential. A bright yellow colour with greenish highlights. Perfectly typical of the variety – complex and deep, yet also lively and fresh with lovely nuances. The bouquet offers a wide range of aromas, from rose blossom to smoke and oriental spices. On the palate, it flows with silky smoothness, velvety and spicy, with a long finish – magnificent! SUPERIORE.DE

The vineyard is called Racciano. Armando Castagno, Italy's leading Vernaccia expert, has carried out thorough research: the name can be traced back to "Fundus Rasianus" – land of the Rasini, a people of Etruscan origin. 2.5 hectares, east-facing, planted exclusively with Vernaccia. The Racciano plot is the sole source of L'Albereta – gran Riserva, the highest expression permitted by the Vernaccia di San Gimignano DOCG. The brothers Giampiero and Stefano, together with their father Mario, who still oversees the work in the vineyard today, have nevertheless decided to treat this wine differently from all the others there. And there aren't many of them.

Ben Ryé – Donnafugata's great, naturally sweet and world-famous white wine. The grape harvest begins in mid-August, and the grapes are left to dry naturally for 20 to 30 days. In September, the later-ripening grapes are harvested and processed whilst still fresh. The hand-picked, raisin-like berries are added to the must in several stages during fermentation. Pale orange-yellow in colour. Overwhelming aromas of apricot, peach and orange peel. On the palate, creamy notes of passion fruit and peach with impressive elegance and length. For us, one of Italy's finest sweet wines every year! SUPERIORE.DE

When Brigitte and Bruno Widmer bought the abandoned Brancaia estate near Castellina in Chianti in 1981, nobody could have guessed that this would become one of the defining wineries of modern Tuscany. The very first vintage in 1983 took first place in a blind tasting – the beginning of a success story that daughter Barbara Widmer is continuing today as a qualified Oenologist. The entire winery has been certified organic since 2019, a consistent development of the philosophy that has always applied here: no compromises. The Riserva combines the best Sangiovese lots from both Chianti Classico estates – brancaia in Castellina and Poppi in Radda – supplemented by twenty per cent Merlot. The sites between 230 and 400 metres above sea level bring together different soil structures: Clay in Castellina, sandy loam with a stony skeleton in Radda.

In the mysterious Etruscan caves under the hill of Decugnano, a sparkling wine matures at a constant 13° Celsius, which is only produced in extremely limited quantities. Claudio Barbi produced this Metodo Classico in 1978 as the first bottle fermenter in Umbria. At that time, it was still made from Procanico and Verdello grapes. Over the years, it has developed into something even more special by using Chardonnay and Pinot Noir and extending the ageing period on the lees to 4 years. The entire production process is artisanal: riddling and disgorging are still done manually and are carried out with noticeable care and passion.

The name Deimassi comes from the large stone blocks that make up the terrace wall that supports the vineyard. These were dug out of the ground during the preparatory work for the planting in 2008. The large stones and the friable clay still mark this small parcel of land, originally intended for the production of Brunello di Montalcino, the results of which are now being marketed without the longer ageing period prescribed for Brunello.

Sangioveto, made from 100% organic Sangiovese, is grown in cool vineyards at altitudes of between 260 and 370 metres, facing south-west. In the past, Sangiovese was known as "Sangioveto" or "San Zoveto". It represents a refined expression of this particular part of the appellation and a very faithful interpretation of the Tuscan grape. Radiant ruby red in colour, the Sangiovese's broad aromatic spectrum ranges from lovely vanilla notes to hints of raspberries and blackberries. Dense and creamy-smooth on the palate, it offers a harmonious blend of tannins, spice and power, with a precisely balanced acidity. It leaves a lasting and impressive finish. SUPERIORE.DE

Gianfranco Gallo has a saying he always repeats: "Wine needs time to reveal its true character." This is not modesty – it is an attitude that shapes his entire winery. Since 1992, all Vie di Romans wines have only been released onto the market two years after the harvest. The Chardonnay that bears his name is the most personal expression of this conviction. The vineyard is situated in Mariano del Friuli on glacial gravel soils deposited by the Isonzo over millennia – rich in gravel, highly mineral and well-aerated. The Bora winds from the east create marked temperature fluctuations between day and night, combining Mediterranean ripeness with Alpine freshness in a rare harmony. Late harvest to achieve maximum aromatic ripeness. Control over oxidation from the very start. Fermentation at a controlled temperature, nine months' ageing on the lees in barriques, followed by bottle ageing.

Rubatsch is a vineyard in Terlan at 250 metres, on a south-western slope with sandy soil on weathered porphyry rock. Two thirds of the Lagrein vines for this wine are rooted here, while the remaining third comes from the Seehof vineyard in Caldaro, where the soil is loamier and heavier. Two soils, two characters, one indigenous grape variety that belongs to South Tyrol like the Dolomites belong to the horizon.