Wines from Veneto

Bright, sparkling silver-grey with a persistent perlage. The nose is fragrant with white roses, juicy pears and white peach. Juicy on the palate, radiant and with a great fruity sweetness, it opens up with presence and balance, pleasantly dosed in all its facets. SUPERIORE.DE

Lugana as a sparkling wine? The idea sounds unusual, but Sergio Zenato has been pursuing it since the winery was founded in the 1960s. He recognised early on that Trebbiano di Lugana, with its fine acidity and aromatic purity, was ideal for traditional bottle fermentation. Hand-picked in mid-September, gentle whole-cluster pressing, fermentation with natural yeasts at 16°C in stainless steel. This is followed by the decisive step: the second fermentation in the bottle according to the Metodo Classico – the same method used in Champagne. The Spumante sur lie matures for a full 24 months before remuage and dégorgement release the fine flavours.

St. John's Eve on 24 June is traditionally the day in Italy when the still unripe walnuts are harvested for Christmas. This time represents the ideal balsamic ripeness of the fruits, which are carefully selected, harvested by hand and then conscientiously prepared. This is followed by an infusion of cinnamon, lemon peel, cloves and sugar, followed by a further maceration period to extract the aromas from the botanicals. Only at the end of a further maturing does this fine nocino achieve the right balance from its various substances. SUPERIORE.DE

From one of the region's most famous winegrowers, this sparkling wine from a single vineyard shows the serious side of Valdobbiadene. A single vineyard from the year 2000, located directly in front of the winery and therefore close to the village. San Floriano opens with delicate scents of white spring flowers and white stone fruit. The elegant, unobtrusive palate draws all the attention to itself and offers creamy white peach, ripe green apple and a hint of citrus - and all this together with an extremely refined perlage. Delicious! SUPERIORE.DE

Monte Carbonare comes from red volcanic iron soils with plenty of black basalt in the centre. Six hectares of 60-70 year old vines in cooler sites, which continue to rise to the crème de la crème of the top sites as the climate warms. A richer wine than the younger Classico, but without the same cheeky vitality. While the Classico is an unbeatable everyday wine, the Monte Carbonare is a complex wine that demands food and a little more contemplation. Mirabelle plum, apricot pit, a hint of dried mango and plenty of smoky, sharp mineral grip, with dutiful freshness that brings wonderful length. SUPERIORE.DE

Distilled from the pomace of the legendary Venegazzù della Casa – the Bordeaux blend that has been making history here on the Montello since the 1950s. Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc and Malbec provide the aromatic basis for this classic Grappa Bianca. Distillation is carried out using the traditional discontinuous method in a water bath (bagnomaria), in which small copper stills gently extract the fine flavours of the grape skins – a process that takes time but guarantees elegance.

When Nino Franco discovered the Col del Vent vineyard in 2014, it was like a step back in time for him. He realised that the tiny plot above Valdobbiadene was home to 100-year-old vines of Glera biotypes that had long since been replaced by modern clonal selections in the region and were in an excellent state of health. The following year, with the help of Marco Simonit, a master of pruning (consultant to Yquem, Latour and Roederer), he produced the first wine from this vineyard. He called it Nodi (knot) in reference to the gnarled trunks of the old vines.

Tenuta Sansonina is located in the south of Lake Garda, not far from Sirmione – where the lake sends its breath over the hills and the soil tells the story of what the last ice age left behind: Deep, clayey chalk-silt mixture that stores water, buffers heat and gives the Turbiana grape that unnerving minerality that sets Lugana apart from everything else. Thirteen hectares, organically farmed, with vines that are around sixty years old – vines that know how deep to dig. 100 per cent Trebbiano di Lugana, harvested by hand and carefully selected before the grapes reach the winery. The must is first cold-fermented statically, then fermented for around ten to twelve days in stainless steel at a controlled temperature. Six months of ageing in steel tanks, one month in the bottle: no wood, no interference, just the wine and its terroir.

Anyone who knows Amarone knows it from the history of Recioto. According to tradition, Italy's most famous red wine was created by chance: a Recioto that was fermented too long in the barrel – until none of the sweetness remained. What began as a mistake became a legend. But the Recioto itself, the older of the two, was almost forgotten. Wrongly so. In Valpolicella Classico, the upper, wide-open wings of the grape panicles are called "Recie" – ears. It is these wings that hang the highest, are most exposed to the sun and ripen the most. They are carefully selected for the Recioto and harvested by hand – at the end of September, when the season has reached its peak in the hills of Marano di Valpolicella on calcareous Eocene soils between 200 and 350 metres.

An unusual cuvée in the still: Riva Vecia combines Cabernet and Glera marc (the Prosecco grape), the soul of the two wine worlds of Loredan Gasparini, in a single distillate. Where other grappas are single-varietal, Venegazzù takes the assemblage route, as with the famous Capo di Stato. Distillation is carried out using the traditional discontinuous method in a water bath, the gentle bagnomaria process in small copper stills.

In 1898, great-grandfather Titta mounted a still on a handcart and travelled from house to house to distil pomace. Four generations later, Jacopo Poli runs the family empire in Schiavon near Bassano del Grappa – with five discontinuous stills, including the original copper stills from 1956. Bomb follows a traditional recipe from Bassano: fresh egg yolks, fresh milk, sugar and the symbol of the region, grappa – grappa. The result is a "cream bomb" of beguiling density.

Palazzotto is the name of the two hectares of vineyard where only Cabernet Sauvignon is grown. Fausto Maculan vinifies a fine wine from these grapes. A spicy start in the glass: cedar wood and ground ginger give way to dusty roses and redcurrants. It's elegant yet refined, with creamy textures lifted by vibrant acidity, while a wave of mineral-tinged wild berries lightly wash over the palate. Leaves a tart note of citrus and raspberry and subtle, grippy tannins that frame the wine without slowing its momentum. Although already showing very well now, this beautifully balanced version of Palazzotto should improve even more with medium-term cellaring. SUPERIORE.DE

The name says it all: "torcolare" – to twist, to braid. In Breganze, it was once a tradition to braid the Vespaiola grapes into plaits after the harvest and hang them under the cellar ceiling so that the air could circulate between the berries. An exercise in patience that takes months and ends with liquid gold. Fausto Maculan did not invent this wine – he saved it. When he took over the winery in the 1970s, Torcolato was an oxidised, syrupy relic. Fausto turned it into a modern sweet wine of international calibre: precise, fresh, lively. Today, 10–15% of the grapes are still woven and hung as Rosolo using the old method, the rest are dried in modern crates. After four months, the berries have lost almost 70% of their weight. Slow fermentation in steel tanks for around a month, followed by a year in French barriques.

Brigaldara's Recioto presents itself beautifully with a warm aroma spectrum of preserved cherries, roses, herbs and traces of honey. It shows its true class on the palate: wonderfully balanced with its interplay of fruit and acidity and never dominant sweetness, it presents distinctive notes of small dark berries, creamy spicy flavours and dark chocolate right through to a never-ending, warming finish. A classic meditation wine! SUPERIORE.DE

Strong, bright straw yellow colour. Characterful, youthful and rich bouquet of dried nectarines, peach, yellow apple, mint and a fresh hint of almonds. The depth of its texture is in perfect contrast to the savoury acids, minerals and notes of sour apples, but a feeling of balanced ripeness always remains. The finish is long and structured and seems to melt slowly on the palate, leaving savoury spices and a fine tannin behind. It already has a lot to offer today, but should mature a little more in the bottle for more structure and elegance. A wonderfully exciting interpretation of Garganega from a small single vineyard in the Carbonare region. SUPERIORE.DE

Before there was Soave, there was this wine. In the fifth century, the Roman senator Cassiodorus praised a sweet wine made from dried grapes at the court of the Ostrogoth king Theodoric – acinaticum, the original form of what is now called Recioto di Soave. Fifteen hundred years later, in 1998, it became the first Venetian wine with DOCG status. And yet very few people know it. The story has been reversed: Amarone, which originated in the 1930s as a "runaway" Recioto – a barrel that accidentally fermented through –became a world star. Recioto, its ancestor, remained in the shadows. Guerrieri Rizzardi's version comes from old pergola vines in Costeggiola, planted between 1960 and 1998 on volcanic gravel. Only a third of the harvest is deemed worthy of drying in fruttaio for three to five months – a selection within the selection.