Wines from Veneto

Gaio Valerio Catullo came from Verona. He wrote in Latin, with passion and precision, about love and loss, about the transience and intensity of the moment. Bertani has dedicated this Ripasso to him – not by chance, but because the wine strives to embody the same character: intense, authentic, born of the deepest regional conviction. Catullo follows the historic Ripasso method in its most rigorous form. After the Amarone Classico has been produced, the pomace is put to use once more: the Valpolicella is passed over these residues, ferments a second time, and absorbs colour, tannins and complexity. The ratio is strict: for every bottle of Bertani Amarone Classico, exactly one bottle of Catullo is produced. No more is possible. The Ripasso is therefore inextricably linked to the Amarone.

The family-run Andreola winery in Col San Martino was founded in 1984 by Nazzareno Pola in the heart of the Valdobbiadene wine-growing region. In his honour, a beautiful Prosecco Superiore is produced here every year in small batches, the 2024 vintage has once again received the highest accolade from Gambero Rosso. For Stefano Pola, the "Etichetta del Fondatore" represents the ultimate expression of finesse and olfactory elegance that the Glera grape can offer in the heart of the Prosecco Superiore region – combined with the verticality and juiciness imparted by the soils, without ever losing its lightness and drinkability.

Cavolo Amarone is a selection of the best grapes from all the estate's vineyards. It opens with aromas of raspberry jam, dried cherries dusted with cinnamon and cocoa, and wafting notes of cedar and tobacco. The flavours of tart plums and fresh blackberries combine with bay leaf, chia spice, liquorice root and white pepper. Elegant on the palate, with fine tannins and a lively acidity that gives the wine a good basis for ageing. SUPERIORE.DE

La Grola is the historic vineyard from which the estate takes its name, and where Corvina, Valpolicella's indigenous grape variety, is believed to have originated. Giovanni Allegrini's replanting of the vineyard sparked an agronomic revolution and laid the foundations for the success of this wine-growing region, which today is synonymous with compelling, great red wines from north-eastern Italy. Classified as Valpolicella Classico Superiore DOC since the 2022 vintage, it now marks a new chapter for this iconic wine from the Allegrini estate. The blend of Corvina, Corvinone and Rondinella comes from the limestone terraces of the La Grola hill, facing south-east, and is harvested with consistent selectivity. Following fermentation in stainless steel, the wine is aged in barriques, some new and some used.

The distilled legacy of a legendary wine. The marc of Capo di Stato – cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc and Malbec from the Ferreto soils of Montello – are distilled using the traditional discontinuous method in a water bath. The gentle bagnomaria process in small copper stills preserves the soul of the Bordeaux blend that Charles de Gaulle once considered a great Frenchman.

In the heart of the Colli Berici, where one of Italy’s most mysterious wine-growing regions stretches between Vicenza and Padua, Stefano Inama has been writing an extraordinary chapter in the European Carménère renaissance for three decades. What began in 1991 with an anonymous sip from an unlabelled glass – that legendary ‘love at first taste’ –, has developed into an obsessive passion that has made Inama Europe’s leading Carménère pioneer. Carminium, produced since 2015, is the younger sister of the iconic Oratorio di San Lorenzo and embodies Inama’s vision of a more accessible, yet complex expression of this almost forgotten Bordeaux variety. The history of this wine is inextricably linked to the Oratorio di San Lorenzo – of that small 16th-century chapel, which stands enthroned in the midst of a twelve-hectare Carménère amphitheatre. Here, where monks once lived amidst unspoilt nature, the Carménère vines have, after fifteen years on the vine, reached a level of maturity that allows Inama to vinify the adjacent plots separately. The terroir is characterised by the distinctive red clay soils of the Colli Berici – iron-rich terra rossa on a limestone subsoil, which gives the Carménère that unique balance between power and elegance that remains unattainable elsewhere.

Cartizze is the smallest and most prestigious area within Valdobbiadene – a hilltop covering barely more than a hundred hectares, regarded as the Grand Cru of Prosecco. The aspect and soil composition of this vineyard, centred around the hamlet of Santo Stefano, have always guaranteed a level of excellence unmatched by any other part of the appellation. 100% Glera, gently pressed and fermented as a single variety under controlled temperatures. The wine is fermented in an autoclave – natural fermentation over around fifty days at 12 to 13°C, significantly longer than is usual in the standard Charmat method. This patience gives the wine its depth and complexity. The "Dry" style, sweeter than Extra Brut or Brut, is not a stylistic whim here, but a tradition: this is how Cartizze has always been made.

La Grola is the eponymous, historic vineyard where Corvina, the indigenous grape of Valpolicella, is believed to have originated. The replanting of the vineyard by Giovanni Allegrini triggered an agronomic revolution and laid the foundations for the success of this wine-growing region, which today stands for convincing, great red wines from north-east Italy. With the 2022 vintage, La Grola returns to its origins: declared Valpolicella Classico Superiore DOC for the first time, it marks a new phase for this iconic wine from Allegrini. The cuvée of Corvina, Corvinone and Rondinella comes from the limestone terraces of the La Grola hill, exposed to the south-east and consistently selectively harvested. After fermentation in stainless steel, the wine is matured in barriques, some new, some used.

Amarone Selezione Antonio Castagnedi delivers high quality every year at a fantastic price. If you've ever had the chance to stand in one of those old, hand-built brick drying sheds – three storeys high, filled with hot steam, with leaves tied in bundles, stacked high and higher still – you'll know exactly what this wine smells like. It is an extraordinary scent. It smells of steam-soaked red clay bricks, of tobacco leaves – green, yellow, gold, copper-coloured and brown – and of earth, spices, dust and kiln smoke. It is the scent of a good Amarone.

The grapes for this high-calibre Valpolicella Classico Superiore come from the rather barren, calcareous and terraced vineyards of Tenuta Novare above the Ognisanti church. Wines of greater complexity, perfect structure and higher concentration are produced here than in most other vineyards in Valpolicella. Sparkling ruby-garnet colour. Fragrant nose with wonderful overtones of sour cherry, dried flowers and white pepper. Perfectly balanced on the palate with firm tannins and wonderful spice and depth of fruit thanks to the ageing in wood. A superior, winning wine from the heart of the Valpolicella region. SUPERIORE.DE

Bright silver-grey with a persistent, finesse-rich perlage. A wonderful nose of white flowers and light-coloured fruit. Full, broad and creamy elegance on the palate, supported by a delicate interplay of sweetness and acidity. A very expressive and sensual Prosecco Superiore from the top Cartizze vineyard. SUPERIORE.DE

La Fabriseria comes across as an elegant, medium-bodied Amarone. Its intensity, tannin structure and density are hard to beat in this price range. Very juicy on the palate, full-bodied and soft, with notes of cherries, cardamom and cloves. And always with the elegant seriousness of the Tedeschi family's great flagship of the same name. SUPERIORE.DE

Celestino Gaspari stood next to Giuseppe Quintarelli – in that cellar in San Pietro in Cariano, which is a place of pilgrimage for many wine lovers. He learnt the language of the Appassimento, the patience of the large barrels, time as an instrument. Anyone who knows this will be surprised when they look at the Metodo Classico label: dancing bubbles, delicate and light, like the exact opposite of what Zýmē is known for. That is the intention.

Two details are enough to pinpoint the origin of this Amarone: marl beneath the vines – that is, clay and limestone with a high rock content – and slopes facing between south-west and south-east, as indicated by the name, which refers to the azimuth, 180. The vines are situated on the hills of Mezzane and Tregnago and are on average 20 years old. The Tedeschi family, who have had roots in the area since 1630, favour hillside plots because they believe that poor soils produce more complex and structured wines. The grapes are dried for four months under controlled humidity conditions, followed by fermentation lasting 40 to 60 days at 15 degrees, which leaves just 3 grams of residual sugar. The wine matures for up to three years in Slavonian oak, after which it rests in the bottle for at least half a year.

Cartizze covers just over 100 hectares, and right in the middle of it, between Santo Stefano and San Pietro di Barbozza, lies Villa Sandi's La Rivetta vineyard. The slopes are steep and, in places, difficult to access; the vines are tended by hand, just as one would in a garden. The soil dates from the Miocene period; it is sandy, with calcareous sandstone and clay. Behind the estate stands the Polegato family: the grandfather purchased his first vineyards in the early 1920s. In the late 1970s, his grandsons Mario and Giancarlo acquired a villa in Crocetta del Montello, dating from 1622, which had once hosted Napoleon, and were among the first to export Prosecco abroad. The grapes are harvested in mid-September. The whole grapes are fed into the pneumatic press and gently pressed; the must is racked once. The second fermentation takes place at 15 to 16 degrees and is halted by cooling as soon as the alcohol and sugar levels are correct.

The same triad – calcarole, Pojega, Rovereti – and yet a completely different wine. Where the 2019 offered warmth and richness, the 2021 is more about precision and classic contours. The April frost noticeably reduced yields, but what followed was a gift: a summer in which temperatures never exceeded the critical 33-degree threshold for Corvina. The vines ripened steadily, without heat stress, with cool nights that preserved acidity and flavour. The subsequent appassimento in the historic drying rooms of Pojega took place under ideal conditions – dry, cool and even. The winemakers of Valpolicella simply call 2021 "l'annata perfetta".

In the 6th century AD, Cassiodorus, minister to Theoderic, King of the Ostrogoths, wrote to the treasurer of Venetia requesting a supply of a special wine for the royal table: the Acinaticum. He described it as "of such a regal colour that one might believe purple itself had its origin in it" – a wine "so dense that it is meant to be eaten rather than drunk". This forerunner of today's Recioto was already the result of the appassimento technique that continues to characterise Valpolicella to this day. The Tedeschi family, rooted in Valpolicella since 1630, preserves this heritage at Capitel Fontana.

Dark ruby red in colour. The bouquet is a furious indication of what this opulent long-distance runner is capable of: full-flavoured heart cherry fruit, blue flowers, damp forest soil, elegant spice and a well-dosed use of wood alternate impressively. The attack is just as complex and multi-layered, followed by beguiling wild berries, precisely polished tannins and an extraordinarily elegant long final. Wow, this is pure fruit! SUPERIORE.DE

Amarone Classico is made from grapes grown in the vineyards of the classic Valpolicella area at the entrance to the Marano Valley. The drying process of the carefully selected grapes takes around 120 days. After fermentation, the wine matures for at least 3 years in wooden barrels.

In the Valley of the Gods (Valpantena), Bertani has been writing perhaps the purest Amarone story in Italy since 1857. This northernmost subzone of Valpolicella is considered their secret cru, where marl-limestone on the eastern slope and clay-limestone on the western slope of the hills create a unique terroir. Here, far from the tourist trails, Corvina Veronese and Rondinella thrive on 15 to 20-year-old vines. After being harvested by hand in September, the grapes are left to rest for four months in the historic drying rooms of the Grezzana winery until the winter pressing begins. 30 months of ageing in Slavonian oak barrels and barriques give this Amarone its characteristic finesse – less opulent than the classics from Negrar, but more mineral and flavoursome.

At the beginning of the 20th century, Caterina Zardini lost her husband. What remained were ten children, a hundred hectares of land in the heart of Valpolicella Classica and a winery that her husband Carlo Campagnola had built up with passion – he had won the prize for the best Recioto in the region in 1907. Caterina could have handed over the estate. But she didn't. She took over the work and continued to run the winery with all her children, laying the foundations for five generations of a wine family that is still rooted in Marano di Valpolicella today. This Amarone bears her name, a tribute.