Wines from Veneto

107 hectares. That's all. Across the entire Valdobbiadene Denominazione, which stretches across 15 municipalities and thousands of hectares of steep slopes, there is exactly one hill that has been demarcated by its own regulations since 1969 – a golden pentagon, as the locals call it, whose plots measure on average barely two tenths of a hectare. Cartizze is the grand cru of Veneto. Andreola sources his grapes from the "Cartizze Alto" sub-region – the limestone-rich ridge of the hill, where marl and sandstone alternate, the soils are flat and rich in minerals, and the perfect south-facing aspect balances the "Alta Collina" climate. Temperatures remain mild and stable – cooler than in the valley floor, warmer than the exposed steep slopes surrounding it. It is precisely this balance that produces a Glera of exceptional ripeness and aromatic complexity. The grapes come from long-standing contract growers who have been supplying Andreola for generations – because Cartizze is not a vineyard you can simply buy. If you’re lucky, you might cultivate a fraction of it.

Gaio Valerio Catullo came from Verona. He wrote in Latin, with passion and precision, about love and loss, about the transience and intensity of the moment. Bertani has dedicated this Ripasso to him – not by chance, but because the wine strives to embody the same character: intense, authentic, born of the deepest regional conviction. Catullo follows the historic Ripasso method in its most rigorous form. After the Amarone Classico has been produced, the pomace is put to use once more: the Valpolicella is passed over these residues, ferments a second time, and absorbs colour, tannins and complexity. The ratio is strict: for every bottle of Bertani Amarone Classico, exactly one bottle of Catullo is produced. No more is possible. The Ripasso is therefore inextricably linked to the Amarone.

When Roberto Anselmi talks about his sweet wines, his eyes light up in a different way. Here, the rebel suddenly becomes a traditionalist – for I Capitelli embodies the centuries-old Venetian art of crafting golden nectar from dried grapes. Yet whilst others seek at least DOC status for their Recioto di Soave, Roberto once again breaks all the rules: his Passito is simply a "Vino Bianco" – a table wine. The most radical form of protest.

The family-run Andreola winery in Col San Martino was founded in 1984 by Nazzareno Pola in the heart of the Valdobbiadene wine-growing region. In his honour, a beautiful Prosecco Superiore is produced here every year in small batches, the 2024 vintage has once again received the highest accolade from Gambero Rosso. For Stefano Pola, the "Etichetta del Fondatore" represents the ultimate expression of finesse and olfactory elegance that the Glera grape can offer in the heart of the Prosecco Superiore region – combined with the verticality and juiciness imparted by the soils, without ever losing its lightness and drinkability.

Cavolo Amarone is a selection of the best grapes from all the estate's vineyards. It opens with aromas of raspberry jam, dried cherries dusted with cinnamon and cocoa, and wafting notes of cedar and tobacco. The flavours of tart plums and fresh blackberries combine with bay leaf, chia spice, liquorice root and white pepper. Elegant on the palate, with fine tannins and a lively acidity that gives the wine a good basis for ageing. SUPERIORE.DE

The distilled legacy of a legendary wine. The marc of Capo di Stato – cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc and Malbec from the Ferreto soils of Montello – are distilled using the traditional discontinuous method in a water bath. The gentle bagnomaria process in small copper stills preserves the soul of the Bordeaux blend that Charles de Gaulle once considered a great Frenchman.

In the heart of the Colli Berici, where one of Italy’s most mysterious wine-growing regions stretches between Vicenza and Padua, Stefano Inama has been writing an extraordinary chapter in the European Carménère renaissance for three decades. What began in 1991 with an anonymous sip from an unlabelled glass – that legendary ‘love at first taste’ –, has developed into an obsessive passion that has made Inama Europe’s leading Carménère pioneer. Carminium, produced since 2015, is the younger sister of the iconic Oratorio di San Lorenzo and embodies Inama’s vision of a more accessible, yet complex expression of this almost forgotten Bordeaux variety. The history of this wine is inextricably linked to the Oratorio di San Lorenzo – of that small 16th-century chapel, which stands enthroned in the midst of a twelve-hectare Carménère amphitheatre. Here, where monks once lived amidst unspoilt nature, the Carménère vines have, after fifteen years on the vine, reached a level of maturity that allows Inama to vinify the adjacent plots separately. The terroir is characterised by the distinctive red clay soils of the Colli Berici – iron-rich terra rossa on a limestone subsoil, which gives the Carménère that unique balance between power and elegance that remains unattainable elsewhere.

Cartizze is the smallest and most prestigious area within Valdobbiadene – a hilltop covering barely more than a hundred hectares, regarded as the Grand Cru of Prosecco. The aspect and soil composition of this vineyard, centred around the hamlet of Santo Stefano, have always guaranteed a level of excellence unmatched by any other part of the appellation. 100% Glera, gently pressed and fermented as a single variety under controlled temperatures. The wine is fermented in an autoclave – natural fermentation over around fifty days at 12 to 13°C, significantly longer than is usual in the standard Charmat method. This patience gives the wine its depth and complexity. The "Dry" style, sweeter than Extra Brut or Brut, is not a stylistic whim here, but a tradition: this is how Cartizze has always been made.

La Grola is the eponymous, historic vineyard where Corvina, the indigenous grape of Valpolicella, is believed to have originated. The replanting of the vineyard by Giovanni Allegrini triggered an agronomic revolution and laid the foundations for the success of this wine-growing region, which today stands for convincing, great red wines from north-east Italy. With the 2022 vintage, La Grola returns to its origins: declared Valpolicella Classico Superiore DOC for the first time, it marks a new phase for this iconic wine from Allegrini. The cuvée of Corvina, Corvinone and Rondinella comes from the limestone terraces of the La Grola hill, exposed to the south-east and consistently selectively harvested. After fermentation in stainless steel, the wine is matured in barriques, some new, some used.

Amarone Selezione Antonio Castagnedi delivers high quality at a fantastic price every year. If you've ever had the opportunity to stand in old, hand-fired brick drying sheds, three storeys high, filled with hot steam, leaves tied in bundles, stacked up and up and up, you'll know what this wine smells like. It is an extraordinary odour. It smells of steam-soaked red clay bricks, of tobacco leaves, green, yellow, gold, copper-coloured, brown and of earth, spices, dust and oven smoke. It is the smell of a good Amarone.

The grapes for this high-calibre Valpolicella Classico Superiore come from the rather barren, calcareous and terraced vineyards of Tenuta Novare above the Ognisanti church. Wines of greater complexity, perfect structure and higher concentration are produced here than in most other vineyards in Valpolicella. Sparkling ruby-garnet colour. Fragrant nose with wonderful overtones of sour cherry, dried flowers and white pepper. Perfectly balanced on the palate with firm tannins and wonderful spice and depth of fruit thanks to the ageing in wood. A superior, winning wine from the heart of the Valpolicella region. SUPERIORE.DE

Bright silver-grey with a persistent, finesse-rich perlage. A wonderful nose of white flowers and light-coloured fruit. Full, broad and creamy elegance on the palate, supported by a delicate interplay of sweetness and acidity. A very expressive and sensual Prosecco Superiore from the top Cartizze vineyard. SUPERIORE.DE

La Fabriseria comes across as an elegant, medium-bodied Amarone. Its intensity, tannin structure and density are hard to beat in this price range. Very juicy on the palate, full-bodied and soft, with notes of cherries, cardamom and cloves. And always with the elegant seriousness of the Tedeschi family's great flagship of the same name. SUPERIORE.DE

Celestino Gaspari stood next to Giuseppe Quintarelli – in that cellar in San Pietro in Cariano, which is a place of pilgrimage for many wine lovers. He learnt the language of the Appassimento, the patience of the large barrels, time as an instrument. Anyone who knows this will be surprised when they look at the Metodo Classico label: dancing bubbles, delicate and light, like the exact opposite of what Zýmē is known for. That is the intention.

Five years of patience transform strength into velvet. This Riserva matures for sixty months in the same French barriques that previously housed the Capo di Stato – a double legacy of wine and wood. Where the young grappa is crystal clear, the Riserva is a deep amber colour with copper reflections. The nose reveals what only long ageing can give: cocoa, leather, liquorice, cherry and blackcurrant. Silky softness and elegance on the palate, with a clean final in which the oak confirms the fruit rather than masking it. At 45% vol. it is a gentler drinker than its younger sister. The label bears Zancanaro's equivalent: "...et pour Monsieur la Bombe" – once created for President de Gaulle. The perfect accompaniment to a mild cigar or dark chocolate of the finest quality. SUPERIORE.DE

The same triad – calcarole, Pojega, Rovereti – and yet a completely different wine. Where the 2019 offered warmth and richness, the 2021 is more about precision and classic contours. The April frost noticeably reduced yields, but what followed was a gift: a summer in which temperatures never exceeded the critical 33-degree threshold for Corvina. The vines ripened steadily, without heat stress, with cool nights that preserved acidity and flavour. The subsequent appassimento in the historic drying rooms of Pojega took place under ideal conditions – dry, cool and even. The winemakers of Valpolicella simply call 2021 "l'annata perfetta".

In the 6th century AD, Cassiodorus, minister to Theoderic, King of the Ostrogoths, wrote to the treasurer of Venetia requesting a supply of a special wine for the royal table: the Acinaticum. He described it as "of such a regal colour that one might believe purple itself had its origin in it" – a wine "so dense that it is meant to be eaten rather than drunk". This forerunner of today's Recioto was already the result of the appassimento technique that continues to characterise Valpolicella to this day. The Tedeschi family, rooted in Valpolicella since 1630, preserves this heritage at Capitel Fontana.

Dark ruby red in colour. The bouquet is a furious indication of what this opulent long-distance runner is capable of: full-flavoured heart cherry fruit, blue flowers, damp forest soil, elegant spice and a well-dosed use of wood alternate impressively. The attack is just as complex and multi-layered, followed by beguiling wild berries, precisely polished tannins and an extraordinarily elegant long final. Wow, this is pure fruit! SUPERIORE.DE

Between stone and altitude. The name already reveals where this wine gets its soul from: from the highest parcels of the Tenuta Costalunga in Sant'Ambrogio di Valpolicella, where the ground gives way to bare rock at 300 to 350 metres. Cresasso – a word that describes precisely this encounter in the local dialect: where earth meets stone, where the Corvina must put down its deepest roots in the barren, calcareous moraine soil with its high proportion of skeleton and chalky white inclusions. Sergio Zenato's vision was to create a wine that celebrates Corvina Veronese in its purest form – without the accompaniment of Rondinella or Corvinone, without the appassimento technique of Amarone. Instead, a slight over-ripening on the vine, hand-picked in the second half of October, when the grapes have reached their maximum concentration. Vinification follows the rhythm of the fruit: 15 days of maceration at 25-26°C, then 24 months of ageing in French tonneaux, followed by at least a further year of bottle ageing. Time as an ally, not an adversary.

Amarone Classico is made from grapes grown in the vineyards of the classic Valpolicella area at the entrance to the Marano Valley. The drying process of the carefully selected grapes takes around 120 days. After fermentation, the wine matures for at least 3 years in wooden barrels.