Valdonica

"Valdonica found me." laughs Dr. Martin Kerres and you can see that he is quite happy about it, here at his favourite place at 500 meters above sea level, from where you can see over the whole country down to the dazzling sea in which the island Giglio hides in the haze. The doctor and hospital manager from Austria never intended to change jobs and become a winegrower. Actually, he was only looking for a holiday home for himself and his partner, in the warmth, for autumn, when it gets cold and grey in Vienna. And then he stood exactly on this spot of earth with a view and a little later he called 80 hectares of wilderness his own.

And this is exactly one of the peculiarities of Valdonica. It has never been farmed before. The vineyards planted by him and his team are actually "natural". All vineyards are planted in untouched nature, free of pesticides and other chemicals, organically and biologically cultivated, not irrigated and spontaneously fermented in small units in the cellar and matured in wood. Hardly any other winery can say the same.

Regional grape varieties - with a focus on various Sangiovese clones - complemented by Ciliegiolo, Vermentino nero and Massareta, as well as the internationally acclaimed white Vermentino, are grown in vineyards that are now ten years old and reach 500 metres above sea level. The soils are partly volcanic in origin and here typical clay and sandy soils. A rather dry microclimate keeps the berries small, the constant wind from the sea in the south and from the mountains in the north provides the best ventilation, the clear temperature differences between hot days and cool nights promote the fruit. The wines develop wonderful elegance and delicate structure and balance.

Of the 80 hectares of land, originally only 10 hectares were planted with vines and olives to preserve the natural landscape. Last year 3 ha were added - only regional varieties. Another step will come next year. Together with his children, Kerres bought the neighbouring estate with a further seven hectares in order to become more economical, because the yields at this altitude are very low. So you can look forward to more great wines from the House of Valdonica in four to five years. A visit is also worthwhile: guest rooms, suites and a villa in the vineyards can be rented directly at the winery. SUPERIORE.DE