Wines from South Tyrol and Trentino

In the hallowed halls of Casòn Hirschprunn, where history and innovation meet in the vaults of the 13th century, a red wine is created that epitomises the future of South Tyrolean viticulture. Here, in the middle of the 30 hectares of biodynamic vineyards between 230 and 360 metres above sea level, Alois Lageder ventured a visionary experiment in the 1980s: the cultivation of Tannat, an exotic grape variety from south-west France that proved to be exceptionally suitable for the Alpine future in the face of climate change. "Negli ultimi anni, ci siamo appassionati sempre di più al Tannat" – the Lageder family confesses their growing passion for this exceptional variety, which is immediately recognisable in the vineyard thanks to its characteristic red leaf stalks. What began as an experimental curiosity developed into a philosophy: not to celebrate the typicality of individual grape varieties, but to let the unique terroir of a vineyard speak for itself – a guiding principle based on the great châteaux of the Bordelais.

Moscato Rosa is one of the aromatic treasures of South Tyrol – an autochthonous grape variety of beguiling elegance and extreme sensitivity. The vines grow at an altitude of 250 to 300 metres in locations exposed to the wind, where constant air movement disperses the moisture. This wind is essential for survival: even the slightest botrytis infestation would destroy the diverse aromatic components and weaken the colour intensity. The soils of porphyry, sand, clay and limestone facing south-south-west provide the perfect foundation for this rarity. Vinification follows the principles of red wine production, but with a shorter maceration period to avoid aggressive tannins. As soon as the desired characteristics are achieved, fermentation is interrupted by cooling – a precise moment that requires a sure instinct. The young wine remains in stainless steel until bottling, where it retains its aromatic freshness.

Countess Sophie Goëss-Enzenberg, who runs the estate together with her husband Michael, gave this Chardonnay her name. A wine that combines elegance with determination, finesse with power. Half the grapes come from one of two contrasting worlds: Terlan Lieben Aich at 300 metres, facing west, where loamy sandy soil on volcanic porphyry nourishes Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc. And Kaltern Mazzon – Manincor's steepest vineyard, the 'Leiten' with gradients of up to 100 per cent. Here, Chardonnay and Viognier are rooted at altitudes of between 350 and 400 metres in calcareous loess-loam, facing south-west towards the light. Two soils, two microclimates, one vision. The destemmed berries macerate for four hours in the press – longer than for the Eichhorn, shorter than for the Sauvignons. Finesse is the guiding principle; the pressing process is slow and meticulous. Spontaneous fermentation with wild yeasts takes place in wooden barrels of various sizes, followed by nine months' ageing on the fine lees. Here, the aroma and structure develop into the density that characterises Sophie.

Lezér means "light", and that's exactly what it is – in the most delicate sense of the word. A pale ruby red in colour, with red berries and an interesting hint of violet on the nose. On the palate, smoky notes, freshly cut wood and a subtle creaminess. A thoroughly fresh red wine right through to the finish, which is perfect when served slightly chilled during the warmer months and pairs beautifully with simple Mediterranean cuisine. Maturation in a variety of vessels, such as amphorae, concrete tanks and wooden barrels, lends it an extra charm and an unmistakable character. SUPERIORE.DE

At the Wangger estate in Leitach, where moraine debris and sandy alluvial soil characterise the south-eastern slopes at altitudes of between 260 and 300 metres, Lagrein grows in soil that forges resilience through strength. Here, in the classic growing region near Bolzano, where this indigenous variety has found its fullest expression for generations, Hans Terzer hand-selects the grapes that hold the potential to age for more than a decade. Twelve months in barriques, followed by blending – only when the wine's true structure is revealed. A further six months in large oak casks to perfect the harmony.

Juvelo is Andrian's crowning glory. A wine that only comes into being when nature plays its part. December in South Tyrol – whilst others have long since brought in their harvest, a few Gewürztraminer vines here are still waiting for the perfect moment. The grapes remain on the vine until they show clear signs of noble rot. Botrytis cinerea, the "noble rot", perforates the skin of the berries and allows the water to evaporate. What remains is pure concentration. The harvest are harvest by hand, selected berry by berry. There's no rush. The grapes are gently pressed, then fermentation begins in small oak barrels. This is followed by 11 months' ageing in barriques – the time this wine needs to develop its complexity.

Doran is no accident. This wine demonstrates what happens when French Chardonnay clones meet South Tyrolean limestone soils. The Andrian Winery takes exactly the time this Riserva needs: twelve months in tonneaux, 30% of which are new French oak barrels. This is the Burgundian school in its purest form. The grapes come from the highest vineyards around Andrian, at altitudes of between 350 and 450 metres. There, the calcareous loam soil is interspersed with white dolomite rock. The microclimate makes all the difference: cooler temperatures than elsewhere, a longer ripening period, and higher acidity. Perfect for a Chardonnay with ambition. Cellar master Rudi Kofler opts for full fermentation in wood. Regular bâtonnage ensures that the oak integrates elegantly, without ever becoming overpowering. Following malolactic fermentation, the wine matures for a further three months in stainless steel – to achieve the final balance between opulence and freshness.

Phileo is the Greek word for love, for affection, for sincerity in a relationship. Franz Pratzner did not choose this name by chance. He derived it from Filomena – his mother, the woman who shaped, moulded and lived the Falkenstein estate for decades. A wine as homage – it could hardly be more personal. The Phileo vines are planted on the Falkenstein vineyard itself, at 650 metres, south-facing, on a soil of gneiss, granite and slate – one of the most mineral-rich soils in the entire Vinschgau Sonnenberg. 9,000 vines per hectare, Guyot training, one kilogramme per vine. Maximum density, minimum quantity. What the vines achieve in this barren landscape is brought to the glass through malolactic fermentation and the targeted, restrained use of wood – creamy, structured, with a long ageing potential.

High above Bolzano stands the legendary Mockhof – a single vineyard that offers Sauvignon Bianco the perfect conditions in which to develop its full potential. Situated at an altitude of 500 metres on steep porphyry slopes, the vines benefit from extreme daytime temperatures and cool nights, which allow for an exceptionally slow ripening process. This exposed site is one of the latest-harvesting areas in South Tyrol – a factor that lends the Mock its characteristic aromatic complexity. Cellar master Stephan Filippi vinifies this single-vineyard wine with the utmost care: gentle pressing, temperature-controlled fermentation and ageing exclusively in stainless steel preserve the intensity typical of the grape variety.

Named after the ancient Roman wine festivals, Passito Vinalia is a sweet dessert wine that goes particularly well with South Tyrolean apple strudel. The strictly selected grapes, which are air-dried after the harvest, come from the sun-drenched vineyards on the slopes of Bolzano at 300 to 400 metres above sea level. They are gently pressed around 4 months after the harvest and then fermented in used French barriques.

The name "retus" comes from "Rhaetia" or "Raetia", the name of the Roman province. In Celtic, "reit" refers to a mountain village. Bright straw green colour. Wild herbs, orange peel, green fruit and spices on the nose. Round and broad on the attack, then more straightforward and restrained in the centre, with a sufficiently salty edge and harmonious acidity to buffer the subtle fruit sweetness. The finish is long with flint and stone notes. Great Sauvignon Bianco with a refreshingly alpine character. SUPERIORE.DE

This rare premium Gin comes from Lake Garda, its name is derived from Luccio, a widespread pike species there. Originally only produced for a bartender friend from the region, the demand increased to such an extent that it was decided to increase the production volume sensitively.

Mathias is one of the top wines. Together with the Pinot Nero Riserva Matan and the Cortazo red wine cuvée, it forms the top tier of Pfitscher’s quality pyramid. A white wine that offers the most complete picture of the vineyard of the same name and the family’s philosophy. The soils on which it grows are unique: grey porphyry and sandy-limestone rock dust. Two geological worlds in a single vineyard: the volcanic depth of the porphyry and the mineral-driven precision of the Alpine limestone. As James Suckling once put it, this captures the essence: "Wild herbs, gentian root, flint, white currant – with a literally breathtaking mineral freshness on final." A Sauvignon that doesn’t scream of fruit, but speaks of its terroir.

Tenuta San Leonardo is a name synonymous with red wine. For generations, the Guerrieri Gonzaga family in Avio, in southern Trentino, has been producing a Bordeaux blend that connoisseurs mention in the same breath as Italy's finest wines. Far fewer people are aware that the estate also produces white wine (and rosé) – and does so with the same precision. Vette di San Leonardo takes its name from the peaks that frame the vineyards. "Vette" – peaks, summits – is the image San Leonardo has chosen for this Sauvignon Blanc: high-altitude, crisp, unmistakable. The grapes come from Roveré della Luna, a village on the border between Trentino and Alto Adige, which ranks among the finest Sauvignon Blanc sites in northern Italy. With the Dolomites as a backdrop, cool nights and a long ripening process on the vine. Hand-harvested in September. Exclusively stainless steel, no oak. Five months sur lie on the fine lees – for texture and depth without external ageing.

Fayé – is the old dialect name for Faedo. The place that is the focus of everything here bears its oldest name in this wine. And the wine embodies the place: on the labels, in the terroir, in the choice of grape varieties blended here. 50% Cabernet Sauvignon sets the framework: structure, dark fruit, longevity. Cabernet Franc, Merlot and Lagrein fill it out – and that is the crucial point. For Lagrein is no international guest. It is indigenous, at home exclusively in Trentino-South Tyrol, and it gives Fayé an identity that no pure Bordeaux cuvée could ever have. A red wine that is rooted in the international scene yet remains deeply rooted in its local terroir.

Pinot Bianco was first introduced to South Tyrol as early as 1850 – and the Schulthaus vineyard, situated above Castel Moos in Appiano Monte, is probably the most historic Pinot Bianco site in the entire municipality. The Schulthauser has been bottled as a wine in its own right since 1982 – and since then it has become one of the best-known expressions of this grape variety in South Tyrol. The vineyards are situated at altitudes of 540 to 620 metres, facing south-east, on limestone gravel soils with a slight clay content – high enough for the evening downdrafts from the Mendel Mountains to exert their cooling effect every day. Hand-harvested at the end of September. In the cellar: 85% fermented in stainless steel, 15% in large wooden casks with malolactic fermentation. In February, the wines are blended to create a wine that combines creamy smoothness and pronounced acidity in a rare harmony.

The great Bordeaux estates have shown the way: a so-called "second wine" is not simply a wine that didn't make the grade. It offers a different perspective. Younger vines, different plots, shorter ageing – resulting in a wine that is meant to be drunk sooner, has a fresher character and reveals a different facet of the same terroir. Tenuta San Leonardo introduced this concept to the Dolomites in 2005.

Pinot Nero has always been regarded as a challenge for any winemaker. It is a grape variety that places the highest demands on soil, climate and the winemaker's expertise. This noble Burgundian grape has been cultivated in South Tyrol since 1850, where, under the name Blauburgunder, it has become the region's most important red wine. For the Sanct Valentin Pinot Nero, which has been part of the winery's prestige range since 1995, only the finest and oldest vineyards in Eppan and the surrounding area are selected – plots situated between 400 and 550 metres above sea level on moraine deposits and calcareous gravel. Minimal yields and meticulous care in the vineyard form the foundation for a wine of exceptional finesse. The grapes are harvested by hand from late September to early October. Following a three-day cold maceration, fermentation begins in stainless-steel tanks, followed by gentle pressing. Malolactic fermentation and subsequent ageing take place in barriques and tonneaux. After around twelve months, the wine is blended, before undergoing a further six months of ageing in large wooden casks – a combination that blends structure with Burgundian elegance.

At an altitude of 1,030 metres, where apple trees still stood thirty years ago, one of Italy's most remarkable Pinot Noirs now grows. Peter Zemmer took the plunge a good decade ago: He planted Burgundy vines on the south-facing slopes at the Koflhof in Aldein – an experiment at an altitude that is exceptional even by South Tyrolean standards. The first vintages remained unpublished; in 2016, hail struck. But since 2017, Vigna Kofl has demonstrated what is possible when porphyry soils meet dolomite carbonate and the daily "Ora" breeze from the south provides that cool tension that Pinot Noir so loves. The vinification follows the rhythm of the vineyard: seven days' fermentation at a controlled temperature, gentle extraction through pumping over, followed by two careful rackings without a centrifuge – a time-consuming process reserved for fine wines. Twelve months in French barriques, a further six in stainless steel, and finally half a year's bottle ageing.