Wines from Marche

Bisci not only produces excellent Verdicchio, but also very appealing Rosso, which is now made from 100% Merlot. With the best value wine in the Marche winery's range, it has achieved a great success: Fascinating aromas of red berries, precious wood and herbs, with a subtle, smoky component in the background. Precise and taut on the palate, with a wonderful primary fruity core, framed by liquorice and a dried bouquet of Mediterranean herbs. A warm red for the unusual days of the week. SUPERIORE.DE

Italy connoisseur and wine critic Ian D'Agata writes about the grape variety in his book "Native Wine Grapes of Italy": "Verdicchio is arguably Italy's greatest indigenous white grape variety. This statement may come as a surprise to those who have only tasted neutral or watery Verdicchio wines, sometimes even bottled in incredible amphora-shaped bottles."

In Palaeolithic times, the Matelica valley was a salt lake. Today, enclosed between Apennine peaks and cut off from the Adriatic, a Verdicchio grows here that carries this mineral history in every fibre. La Monacesca, founded in 1966 by Casimiro Cifola and now run by his son Aldo, has made this origin its programme. Seventeen hectares on clayey soils, four hundred metres high, facing north-south. The grapes are harvested by hand, gently pressed, fermented in stainless steel and matured for a long time on the fine lees – only then does the wine go into the bottle. No wood, no distractions, just time.

The single vineyard Monteprandone is the centrepiece of the winery – a south-west facing, organically cultivated plot on calcareous clay soil, which produces the most structured grapes on the estate year after year. Montepulciano and Sangiovese are selected here with great care and matured classically in large wooden barrels and barriques. The result is a Rosso Piceno Superiore with depth, nobility and a clear signature of origin.

The name says it all: the vineyard is located on an elongated, plateau-like ridge in the historic Classico region of the Castelli di Jesi – a ridge reminiscent of a podium. It is therefore no coincidence that Garofoli harvests its best Verdicchio cuvée right here. 100% Verdicchio from the vineyard that the estate has cultivated as its flagship for decades – and with which Carlo Garofoli was one of the first to prove that Verdicchio can and should age. The vinification remains true to the wine: steel, precision, long ageing on the lees, which gives the podium the fullness and texture that clearly distinguishes it from the fresh entry-level wine. No wood, no distractions – just Verdicchio in its most concentrated form.

In the hills between Macerata and Ancona, Bisci's red wines are made from the modest 1.5 hectares of Sangiovese and Merlot that have complemented the portfolio of the legendary Verdicchio specialists since the very beginning. The Villa Castiglioni 2019 combines 80% Sangiovese with 20% Merlot in a sophisticated cuvée that expresses the warm terroir of the Marche region. After manual harvesting, the wine is macerated for 15 days in stainless steel tanks at a controlled temperature with daily pumping over, followed by twelve months of ageing partly in oak barrels and partly in steel.

This rare Riserva comes from the historic vineyards of the Garofoli family in Montecarotto – a selection of the purest Verdicchio grapes from the classic hills of the Castelli di Jesi. The family has been cultivating the noble Verdicchio grape on these medium loamy soils with sandy and calcareous inclusions for five generations. The lowest yields per hectare and the latest possible hand-picking guarantee the highest concentration for this top wine.

The name comes from the Middle Ages: the "grosso agontano" was one of the most important silver coins in Italy, minted by the Maritime Republic of Ancona in the 13th century. A coin for trade routes, for trust, for value. Garofoli did not choose this name by chance – it sets the standard for their most important red wine. It only appears in the best years. Then, when the harvest in the Piancarda vineyard – within the Monte Conero nature reserve, on calcareous clay soil – the quality that justifies the DOCG classification. 100% Montepulciano, hand-picked, 10 to 15 days of maceration for maximum depth of colour and tannin structure, followed by malolactic fermentation. Maturation: 18 months in barriques, then more than 12 months in the bottle.

An expression of old vineyard depth and finesse: Vecchie Vigne comes from vines over 40 years old on clayey soils at altitudes of 250-300 metres above sea level. The result is a white wine that makes balance, structure and terroir tangible. Pale straw yellow in colour with crystalline purity. The bouquet is intense but nuanced, with aromas of almond blossom, white flowers, meadow herbs, lemon and peach, supported by lively minerality and a delicate hint of aniseed. On the palate, the wine impresses with elegant acidity, animating and firm at the same time. The mineral tension ends in a long, salty-fresh final – with structure, depth and plenty of substance. Vecchie Vigne is more than just a pleasure to drink: it is a kind of reference for the ageing potential of Verdicchio. A white wine that carries origin, history and personality in every sip. SUPERIORE.DE

A wine with history, personality and depth of character: Centovie is the centrepiece of a long-term project at the organically farmed Tenuta Centovie near Roseto degli Abruzzi. The 35 hectares of vineyards on the southern slope near Montipagano, with a view of the Gran Sasso, produce elegant Montepulciano, among other things – equipped with traditional training systems (pergola in long tendone and short cordon training) and an optimal microclimate.

Steep cliffs, gentle slopes of calcareous clay soil, the rough blue of the Adriatic Sea just above the vines ... welcome to the Conero, one of the most renowned terroirs in the Marche region! From the heart of this landscape comes Cùmaro, a passionately cultivated, richly structured Montepulciano that Umani Ronchi has been vinifying as a Riserva since the mid-1980s. In the glass, it presents a dark ruby colour with a purple hue. The bouquet is intense and multi-layered: ripe plum, blackcurrant and cassis intertwine with notes of black pepper, vanilla and fine tobacco – all in a powerful, spicy frame. The palate is characterised by dense concentration while remaining warm and enveloping. Smooth, integrated tannins carry the broodingfruit flavour, which glides into a long, elegant finish – with hints of chocolate and spicy dryness.

The quality of Italian white wines has risen sharply in the last 20 years, and this also applies to Verdicchio. There are still quite a few bad old-fashioned wines, but the good ones can be a revelation. The region around Matelica in particular has made Verdicchio famous, as the best representatives of its type come from here - and mostly from the higher vineyards: complex, mineral, fresh and long-lasting.

Garofoli was the first winery in the Marche region to venture the experiment of creating a Metodo Classico exclusively from Montepulciano grapes – a daring innovation that is now considered the jewel in the crown of the winery. Originating from the hills around Castelfidardo, the hand-picked Montepulciano grapes undergo careful vinification according to the classic method. The second fermentation takes place in the bottle, where the spumante matures on the yeasts for between 24 and 30 months – a period of silent transformation that gives it its characteristic creaminess and complexity. This limited production reflects Garofoli's commitment to quality over quantity.

Mirum (the miracle) is a statement of limestone, altitude and time. It is no ordinary Verdicchio, but one of the most charismatic Riserva bottlings in central Italy. Vinified since 1990, it comes from a particularly barren, limestone-rich south-western slope above Matelica, where the vines grow at over 400 metres. The wine is matured exclusively in stainless steel, but with long lees ageing – a decision that combines clarity, texture and ageing potential.

Macrina shines in the glass in a clear straw yellow colour with a subtle green hue. The bouquet exudes enchanting notes of fresh white flowers and green apple, carried by an elegant, persistent freshness. On the palate, the wine displays lively acidity, a juicy fruit structure and a distinctive mineral note that stylishly accompanies the floral and fruity accents. The transparent, clear ageing in stainless steel emphasises the pure varietal and origin presence. A juicy Verdicchio with elegant finesse and a drinkable balance. SUPERIORE.DE

Here comes a wine that completely tantalises the senses: Maximo is a sweet wine rarity based on Sauvignon Blanc, harvested at the height of the Villa Bianchi estate – where humidity and dry winds favour the noblest form of Botrytis cinerea. The grapes ripen on the cool Colli del Verdicchio before they are hand-picked several times and transferred to the cellar, where they are pressed particularly gently in a small Vaslin press basket. Spontaneous fermentation takes place at 15 °C for around a month. After static clarification, the wine matures in small stainless steel tanks for around a year.

A new name – and a real one: Garofoli rechristened its classic with the 2023 vintage. Not out of a marketing whim, but out of conviction. Piancarda "Blu" – the blue stands for the Adriatic Sea, which can almost always be seen from Monte Conero. The vineyard is located within the Monte Conero Nature Reserve, on calcareous-clay soils that give Montepulciano the depth that makes this grape variety on the coast of central Italy so unmistakable. 100% Montepulciano. Maceration for 8 to 10 days, followed by 15 months in large wooden barrels and 6 months in the bottle.

A wine that inspires with the utmost precision and emotional depth: Libenter (Latin: with pleasure) is the consistent pinnacle of the red line from Tavignano. The cuvée of Montepulciano, Sangiovese and a discreet proportion of Cabernet Sauvignon develops a remarkable complexity after 14–18 months in small oak barrels, it develops a remarkable complexity. Each vine contributes to the intense structure, each grape to the harmonious whole.