Wines from Marche

Steep cliffs, gentle slopes of calcareous clay soil, the rough blue of the Adriatic Sea just above the vines ... welcome to the Conero, one of the most renowned terroirs in the Marche region! From the heart of this landscape comes Cùmaro, a passionately cultivated, richly structured Montepulciano that Umani Ronchi has been vinifying as a Riserva since the mid-1980s. In the glass, it presents a dark ruby colour with a purple hue. The bouquet is intense and multi-layered: ripe plum, blackcurrant and cassis intertwine with notes of black pepper, vanilla and fine tobacco – all in a powerful, spicy frame. The palate is characterised by dense concentration while remaining warm and enveloping. Smooth, integrated tannins carry the broodingfruit flavour, which glides into a long, elegant finish – with hints of chocolate and spicy dryness.

The quality of Italian white wines has improved significantly over the last 20 years, and this also applies to Verdicchio. There are still quite a few poor, old-fashioned wines out there, but the good ones can be a real revelation. The region around Matelica in particular has made Verdicchio famous, as it is here – and mostly from the higher-altitude vineyards – that the finest examples of this wine are produced: complex, mineral, fresh and long-lasting.

Garofoli was the first winery in the Marche region to venture the experiment of creating a Metodo Classico exclusively from Montepulciano grapes – a daring innovation that is now considered the jewel in the crown of the winery. Originating from the hills around Castelfidardo, the hand-picked Montepulciano grapes undergo careful vinification according to the classic method. The second fermentation takes place in the bottle, where the spumante matures on the yeasts for between 24 and 30 months – a period of silent transformation that gives it its characteristic creaminess and complexity. This limited production reflects Garofoli's commitment to quality over quantity.

Mirum (the miracle) is a statement of limestone, altitude and time. It is no ordinary Verdicchio, but one of the most charismatic Riserva bottlings in central Italy. Vinified since 1990, it comes from a particularly barren, limestone-rich south-western slope above Matelica, where the vines grow at over 400 metres. The wine is matured exclusively in stainless steel, but with long lees ageing – a decision that combines clarity, texture and ageing potential.

In the glass, Macrina glows with a clear straw-yellow colour and a subtle green sheen. The bouquet exudes enchanting notes of fresh white blossoms and green apple, underpinned by an elegant, lingering freshness. On the palate, the wine displays lively acidity, a juicy fruit structure and a distinctive mineral note that stylishly complements the floral and fruity accents. The transparent, clear ageing in stainless steel emphasises the pure expression of the grape variety and its terroir. A juicy Verdicchio with elegant finesse and a balance that makes it a pleasure to drink. SUPERIORE.DE

Here comes a wine that completely tantalises the senses: Maximo is a sweet wine rarity based on Sauvignon Blanc, harvested at the height of the Villa Bianchi estate – where humidity and dry winds favour the noblest form of Botrytis cinerea. The grapes ripen on the cool Colli del Verdicchio before they are hand-picked several times and transferred to the cellar, where they are pressed particularly gently in a small Vaslin press basket. Spontaneous fermentation takes place at 15 °C for around a month. After static clarification, the wine matures in small stainless steel tanks for around a year.

A new name – and a real one: Garofoli rechristened its classic with the 2023 vintage. Not out of a marketing whim, but out of conviction. Piancarda "Blu" – the blue stands for the Adriatic Sea, which can almost always be seen from Monte Conero. The vineyard is located within the Monte Conero Nature Reserve, on calcareous-clay soils that give Montepulciano the depth that makes this grape variety on the coast of central Italy so unmistakable. 100% Montepulciano. Maceration for 8 to 10 days, followed by 15 months in large wooden barrels and 6 months in the bottle.

A wine that inspires with the utmost precision and emotional depth: Libenter (Latin: with pleasure) is the consistent pinnacle of the red line from Tavignano. The cuvée of Montepulciano, Sangiovese and a discreet proportion of Cabernet Sauvignon develops a remarkable complexity after 14–18 months in small oak barrels, it develops a remarkable complexity. Each vine contributes to the intense structure, each grape to the harmonious whole.

Macrina shines in the glass in a clear straw yellow colour with a subtle green hue. The bouquet exudes enchanting notes of fresh white flowers and green apple, carried by an elegant, persistent freshness. On the palate, the wine displays lively acidity, a juicy fruit structure and a distinctive mineral note that stylishly accompanies the floral and fruity accents. The transparent, clear ageing in stainless steel emphasises the pure varietal and origin presence. A juicy Verdicchio with elegant finesse and a drinkable balance. SUPERIORE.DE

The name Plenio (derived from the Latin plenus) stands for fullness and expression, and this is precisely what characterises every facet of this Riserva. The grapes come from higher-lying plots near Cupramontana, in the historic centre of the appellation. Calcareous clay soils, cool nights and selective hand-picking create the basis for a Verdicchio with depth and Storage potential. Fermentation is followed by partly reductive, partly oxidative ageing in stainless steel and large wood, followed by extended storage on fine lees and final maturation in the bottle.

This exceptional creation is in the highest spheres of the art of sparkling wine: a Pas Dosé made from 100% Verdicchio – a rarity that only sees the light of day in the best vintages and in limited editions. Originating from the classic hills of the Castelli di Jesi, the noble Verdicchio grape undergoes one of the longest ageing processes in Italian sparkling wine production: it rests on its lees for no less than 60 months. Without liqueur d'expédition after disgorgement, the Spumante presents itself in its uncompromising authenticity – a bold act of purity that brings out the elegant clarity and natural saltiness of Verdicchio unfiltered.

Pelago is a tribute to the harmonious combination of classic Marche flavours with international influences. The cuvée of Montepulciano, Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot brings together the best of the region in a finely structured red wine. The grapes are harvested by hand and placed in stainless steel tanks for controlled fermentation before the wine matures for 14 months in Liters barriques and then develops for a further twelve months in the bottle.

Since 1871, the name Garofoli has embodied the spirit of the Marche's wine culture – a history spanning five generations, with roots in the holy city of Loreto, where Antonio Garofoli once refreshed weary pilgrims with local wine. What began as a modest tavern developed under his son Gioacchino into one of Italy's most venerable wine houses, which is now being steered into the future by the brothers Carlo and Gianfranco, together with their children Gianluca, Caterina and Beatrice. Podium originates from the classic hills of the Castelli di Jesi, that historic heartland of Verdicchio, where medium-textured loamy soils, interspersed with sandy and calcareous deposits, form a mosaic that lends the Verdicchio grape its unmistakable minerality. The wine undergoes a long ageing process without any use of wood.

The Montepulciano vines for this powerful and terroir-rich Montepulciano grow on the Campo San Giorgio vineyard at an altitude of about 150 m on deep, chalky clay soils. The wine is unfiltered and unfined and matures for 12 months in small and large wooden barrels. The label represents the historic design of the Rosso Conero of the 1970s and the impressive result is the calling card of a long family tradition and expertise in viticulture.

It was in December 1998 when a customer knocked on Giuseppe Bisci's door and asked for "vino d'annata" – a young wine, ready to drink straight away. Yet Bisci, as a matter of principle, only sold his Verdicchio after at least two years' ageing. Giuseppe turned the customer away, but the encounter stayed with him. The high-altitude calcareous clay soils of Matelica, where the Apennines rise majestically into the sky, did not produce simple everyday wines – they were capable of so much more! The continental climate, with sun-drenched days and freezing mountain nights, gave the Verdicchio an intensity, minerality and a backbone of acidity that allowed for decades of ageing – something almost unheard of in Italian white wine. That very same day, Giuseppe turned to his cellar master, Aroldo Bellelli: "Let's make a wine for the next person who asks for a young wine – so that we can tell him: "We make Riserva, and that won't be released for another seven years!""

It was in December 1998 when a customer knocked on Giuseppe Bisci's door and asked for "vino d'annata" – young wine, ready to drink straight away. Yet Bisci, as a rule, only sold his Verdicchio after at least two years' ageing. Giuseppe turned the customer away, but the encounter stayed with him. The high-altitude calcareous clay soils of Matelica, where the Apennines rise majestically into the sky, did not produce simple, everyday wines – they were capable of so much more! The continental climate, with sun-drenched days and freezing mountain nights, gave the Verdicchio an intensity, minerality and backbone of acidity that allowed for decades of ageing – something almost unheard of in Italian white wine. That very same day, Giuseppe turned to his cellar master, Aroldo Bellelli: "Let's make a wine for the next person who asks for a young wine – so that we can tell them: we make Riserva, and it's only released after seven years!"

There are wines that seek their time. And there are wines to which time confides its secrets. Historical Vecchie Vigne is one of those rare gems that only reveal their true colours after more than five years of ageing – a tribute by the Bernetti family to Verdicchio and at the same time a radical statement: that even non-aromatic white grape varieties can be among the very best if they are given the time they deserve. In Montecarotto, where the hills of the Verdicchio Classico find their noblest expression, there is a small plot at 310 metres above sea level, isolated in the middle of the historic Vecchie Vigne. Vines over fifty years old are rooted here in brooding, fresh, loamy soils that provide Verdicchio with the minerality and substance that only old vines can give. Eastern exposure, perfect balance between growth and yield – these vines were planted in the early seventies and today produce grapes of a concentration and ripeness that are harvested by hand at the end of September, beginning of October, berry by berry intact.

Macrina shines in the glass in a clear straw yellow colour with a subtle green hue. The bouquet exudes enchanting notes of fresh white flowers and green apple, carried by an elegant, persistent freshness. On the palate, the wine displays lively acidity, a juicy fruit structure and a distinctive mineral note that stylishly accompanies the floral and fruity accents. The transparent, clear ageing in stainless steel emphasises the pure varietal and origin presence. A juicy Verdicchio with elegant finesse and a drinkable balance. SUPERIORE.DE

A monument from Montepulciano – and yet not a stylistic muscleman: Kurni is the expression of an uncompromising philosophy that aims for density, balance and expression rather than volume. The vines are deeply rooted in the clay-limestone soils of the southern Marche region, are meticulously tended and produce minimal yields. The hand-picked grapes undergo a long maceration period before the wine matures for 18 months in new French barriques.

Pelago is a tribute to the harmonious combination of classic Marche flavours with international influences. The cuvée of Montepulciano, Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot brings together the best of the region in a finely structured red wine. The grapes are harvested by hand and placed in stainless steel tanks for controlled fermentation before the wine matures for 14 months in Liters barriques and then develops for a further twelve months in the bottle.

A monument from Montepulciano – and yet not a stylistic muscleman: Kurni is the expression of an uncompromising philosophy that aims for density, balance and expression rather than volume. The vines are deeply rooted in the clay-limestone soils of the southern Marche region, are meticulously tended and produce minimal yields. The hand-picked grapes undergo a long maceration period before the wine matures for 18 months in new French barriques.

There are wines that tell stories. And then there are wines that are a story themselves. Kupra belongs to the second category. Its roots go deeper than the hundred-year-old Alberello vines from which it is made – they go back to Sardinian shepherds who travelled from Maremma across Lake Trasimeno to Apulia on their transhumance, bringing with them a grape variety they called "su burdu": the bastard, the foundling, the one who does not belong. Marco Casolanetti discovered this almost forgotten plot of land in the early 2000s, right next to his Montepulciano vines near Cupra Marittima – and immediately recognised that something special lay dormant here.

The Montepulciano vines for this powerful and terroir-rich Montepulciano grow on the Campo San Giorgio vineyard at an altitude of about 150 m on deep, chalky clay soils. The wine is unfiltered and unfined and matures for 12 months in small and large wooden barrels. The label represents the historic design of the Rosso Conero of the 1970s and the impressive result is the calling card of a long family tradition and expertise in viticulture.