Wines from Friuli

Chardonnay is considered a chameleon among grape varieties – adaptable, malleable, ready for any interpretation. But what happens if it is denied precisely this transformation? When the pomace is processed fresh and soft, fermentation takes place anaerobically in stainless steel, distillation is slow in Benito Nonino's copper steam stills – and then: no wood, no colouring, just rest in neutral steel? The result is crystalline clarity. Bright fruits unfold on the nose – apple, pear, a hint of freshly baked bread. The palate reveals the harmonious softness that characterises Chardonnay when it is given space rather than direction. The finish is gentle and lingering. Served at 12°C in a tulip glass, this grappa reveals the essence of the grape variety – unadulterated and self-confident. SUPERIORE.DE

Brilliant, rich yellow with silver-green reflections. The bouquet has pronounced smoky, mineral notes, full flavours of mango, citrus fruit, sage and asparagus. It shows its true class on the palate: wonderfully complex structure, lots of naturally sweet flavour, refreshing acidity and a juiciness, strength and length that can only be achieved through long contact with the lees and simultaneous agitation. Very convincing, downright captivating! SUPERIORE.DE

Sauvignon Bianco combines the intense flavour of Sauvignon with the heady and rich style of Meroi. Lemon oils and wild herbal tones combine with a hint of ground ginger. It is round in texture, but with a lively acid balance that conveys elegance with green citrus and penetrating spice. The finish is long and colourful, leaving a hint of lime and a residual acidity that keeps the expression fresh. Exciting contrast of savoury and sweet. A large-format Sauvignon Blanc that retains its harmony at all times. SUPERIORE.DE

The Chardonnay grapes for Lis Neris' Metodo Classico come from the historic Jurosa vineyard. After the first fermentation in 500-litre barrels, it matures for at least three years in the bottle on the fine lees and develops the nobility and elegance that immediately excited us. On the nose, notes of yeast, light stone fruit, limestone and minerals. In the mouth it is creamy and elegant, blessed with depth and at the same time great freshness, which one would wish for from many a French counterpart. Dom Jurosa is precise, cool and pleasantly dry in its overall appearance, which also makes it an excellent food companion. SUPERIORE.DE

Grappa Monovitigno Il Prosecco Bianco is the ideal summer grappa: fresh, floral and with a playful flavour. Excellent enjoyment at a serving temperature of 11 degrees and also brilliant for the preparation of many cocktails. SUPERIORE.DE

Sauvignon Blanc is the most expressive of the white grape varieties – unmistakable, self-confident, with an aroma profile that polarises. In wine, it shows its famous "green" notes; in grappa, it reveals a surprisingly different side. Fresh, destemmed pomace from selected growing areas is fermented anaerobically in stainless steel and immediately distilled – slowly, in Benito Nonino's copper steam still, with precise separation of the pre- and post-distillation stages. The result rests in glass balloons until it has found its harmony.

Malvasia Istriana is the most fragrant variety in Friuli – and the least known outside its borders. Gianfranco Gallo cultivated it when hardly anyone believed in it, on one and a half hectares in Mariano del Friuli, which give it everything it needs in terms of yield and ripeness. Dis Cumieris – named after a local topographical term – is Gallo's homage to the variety in its purest form. 100% Malvasia Istriana, on glacial gravel with sand, eight months on the lees, no malolactic. The result is a fragrance that is almost unrivalled in intensity by any other grape variety.

Picolit is not only one of the rarest, but also one of the finest grape varieties in Italy - a diva in the vineyard and a treasure in the glass. Due to its natural trickling, it naturally produces only a few, but highly concentrated berries. Tunella dedicates itself to this delicate, traditional plant with the utmost respect: hand-picking in several passes, natural drying of the berries on the plant until deep into autumn, ageing in small French oak barrels and a lot of patience. 2021 was a year with an ideal late summer that offered perfect conditions for Picolit. The noble rot grapes from the hills of the Colli Orientali yielded a dense, golden must that was fermented slowly and carefully. Maturation in small wooden barrels on the lees lends depth and texture without masking the delicate elegance of the variety.

Friulano was the wine of Friuli long before anyone planted Sauvignon Blanc, Pinot Grigio or Chardonnay in these soils. The autochthonous variety – long called Tocai until a European court judgement took the name away from it – has a distinctiveness that no other grape variety in this region can replicate: almond-bitter on the finish, floral on the attack, with a velvety texture and an unagitated stillness. Dolée comes from the vineyard of the same name in Mariano del Friuli – two hectares of sandy gravel with reddish silt, exposed to the east-west. Short cold maceration, fermentation at 16–19 °C, nine months on the lees in steel, natural clarification.

Flors di Uis means "flowers of the grape" in Friulian – and the name is as precise as a promise. Gianfranco Gallo conceived this wine as a tribute to the diversity of flavours of the Isonzo Valley: not a portrait of a single variety, but an ensemble of three equal voices. 58% Malvasia Istriana, 27% Rhine Riesling, 15% Friulano – all varieties fermented separately, then assembled over eight months on the yeasts in steel. The Malvasia provides the floral fragrance and tropical richness, the Riesling the cutting minerality and freshness, the Friulano the binding character and the delicately almond-bitter finish. No wood to come between the varieties.

The velvety accessibility of Merlot in wine is translated into unrivalled roundness in grappa. The Noninos select only fresh, soft vinacce from Friuli for this – the grapes are destemmed and processed immediately before undesirable secondary fermentation can set in. Fermentation takes place in temperature-controlled stainless steel tanks in the absence of air. The family then distils the wine slowly and discontinuously in their copper steam stills so that only the core reaches the bottle. After six to twelve months of resting in stainless steel, the distillate retains its crystalline clarity.

The Vieris vineyard covers 9.4 hectares with predominantly French clones, planted at the highest density: 0.7 kilograms yield per vine. On the same glacial gravel soils in the Isonzo Valley, with the same Bora coolness and the same Adriatic light – but with a yield that forces the wine to search deeper. Gianfranco Gallo deliberately vinifies the Vieris for a creamier texture: less focussed on varietal character, more on terroir. Short cold maceration, controlled fermentation, nine months in large wooden barrels on the lees, natural clarification, no malolactic.

The world of Sauvignon Blanc knows two great voices: the Loire Valley and Marlborough. Gianfranco Gallo has added a third – the Isonzo Valley. Not because he wanted to, but because the Piere vineyard decided so. 11.5 hectares in Mariano del Friuli at 34 metres, predominantly Italian clones with loose grapes on deep, gravelly-sandy soils with conglomerate components. The bora brings coolness, the Adriatic Sea brings ripeness, the Isonzo brings minerals. Short cold maceration, fermentation at 16–19 °C, eight months on the yeasts, no malolactic fermentation, ten months in the bottle.

In 1973, Benito and Giannola Nonino revolutionised the world of grappa: for the first time, pomace was distilled in a single variety – a concept that is now standard as Monovitigno. Moscato epitomises this principle in its most aromatic form. Fresh, soft vinacce of the Moscato grape from selected growing regions ferment in temperature-controlled stainless steel tanks in the absence of air. The discontinuous distillation in copper steam stills takes place with separation of the first and last run-off – only the centrepiece reaches the bottle. Maturation in stainless steel preserves the freshness and clarity typical of the variety.

Dark ruby with purple reflections. In the appealing bouquet finely spiced underlaid ripe fruit, delicate blackberry, cassis and dried herbs. Fresh, elegant and very complex on the palate, with mineral and chalky nuances. As it progresses, silky tannins and a subtle, sweet fruit, very well structured and with a cherry-like finish. Blumeri is undisputedly the winery's red flagship and gets better with each year of bottle ageing. SUPERIORE.DE

Pinot Grigio can be many things. With Dessimis, it is one thing above all else: itself. Gianfranco Gallo realised early on that this grape variety only reveals its full character if it is given the maceration time it deserves – and if the result is not pressed immediately. Dessimis is produced from two separate plots covering nine hectares in Mariano del Friuli, on shallow, gravelly soils with inclusions of iron and aluminium oxide, which give the soil its characteristic reddish hue and the wine its mineral structure. Extended contact with the skins – not an 'orange wine', but a deliberate extraction of colour, aroma and texture. This is followed by nine months' ageing on the lees in stainless steel, with no oak and no intervention. Further months in the bottle.

Livio Felluga's new cru wines are the result of massalselection. For this purpose, selected vines are reproduced in particularly favourable locations in order to renew vineyards with particularly high-quality vines and to further improve the quality of individual varietal wines.

Gianfranco Gallo has a saying he always repeats: "Wine needs time to reveal its true character." This is not modesty – it is an attitude that shapes his entire winery. Since 1992, all Vie di Romans wines have only been released onto the market two years after the harvest. The Chardonnay that bears his name is the most personal expression of this conviction. The vineyard is situated in Mariano del Friuli on glacial gravel soils deposited by the Isonzo over millennia – rich in gravel, highly mineral and well-aerated. The Bora winds from the east create marked temperature fluctuations between day and night, combining Mediterranean ripeness with Alpine freshness in a rare harmony. Late harvest to achieve maximum aromatic ripeness. Control over oxidation from the very start. Fermentation at a controlled temperature, nine months' ageing on the lees in barriques, followed by bottle ageing.

A great Friulano from small plots: Paolo Meroi vinifies his single-varietal white wine from vines over 40 years old on barren flysch soils around Buttrio and Rosazzo – a terroir that provides depth and precision. The wine is matured traditionally in barriques with long lees contact, which gives the wine structure and subtle maturity. Brilliant straw yellow in the glass with golden reflections. The nose is complex and finely interwoven: ripe pear, white peach, candied citrus fruit, lime blossom and a hint of herbal honey. Delicate hints of hazelnut, beeswax and wet stone in the background. Powerful, silky and elegantly textured on the palate. The acidity is well integrated and the salty minerality characterises the long, powerful finish. A Friulano of a special calibre – dense, complex and with an unmistakable character of origin. Paolo Merois' signature is palpable: authentic, precise, fully committed to Friuli. SUPERIORE.DE