Wines from Friuli

Cladrecis is an ancient hamlet at an altitude of 314 metres, in the municipality of Prepotto, where brothers Pierpaolo and Luca Sirch embarked on a project to restore old vineyards. The hamlet lies on the very edge of the Friuli Colli Orientali DOC, in the Judrio Valley, right on the Slovenian border – hence the name "Terre di confine" on the label: a wine produced at the intersection of three boundaries – the appellation, the region and the country. The blend of Merlot, Pignolo and Cabernet, a so-called "taglio bordolese", is not a modern invention. As early as 1891, when this area still belonged to Austria, this concept of blending was being explored in Friuli.

Schiopettos Friulano is youthful and unobtrusive, with a lovely bouquet that blends lemon zest with mint and hints of crushed stone. It caresses the palate with an exciting blend of citrusy acidity and salty minerality, whilst a core of tropical melon develops towards the finish. It ends on a more delicate note, yet is long-lasting, with lovely floral notes that linger. The lovely balance and underlying power of this wine will ensure it ages well in the bottle. The best is yet to come. SUPERIORE.DE

Schiopetto has been producing Pinot Grigio since 1968 – long before it became (unfortunately, in some other regions) Italy's best-selling mass-market white wine – and the Rotolo family has never forgotten what it truly excels at: depth, juiciness and mineral vigour. On the Ponca hills of Capriva del Friuli, in marly soils of Eocene origin, the variety finds a terroir that leaves no room for mediocrity. Gentle pressing, brief sulphur-free decanting, fermentation in stainless steel at a controlled temperature – followed by eight months' ageing on the lees. No oak, no detours, everything focused on the Ponca.

Malvasia Istriana is not Malvasia. At least not what most people know by that name. While other varieties of this ancient Greek grape family are often lush and sweetly aromatic, the Istrian variety shows a completely different face: richer, more complex, more mineral and capable of true greatness in Collio Goriziano – and capable of its true greatness in the Collio Goriziano. Schiopetto has been vinifying it as a single variety since 1974: hand-picked at the beginning of September, fermented in steel at 16 degrees for ten to twelve days, matured on the fine lees for nine months. The result needs no explanation, just a large glass.

Pinot Bianco reveals its aristocratic side at the high altitude of Zuc di Volpe. The privileged single vineyard site near Togliano offers ideal conditions for this elegant grape variety: cool nights, calcareous soils and excellent aeration, which enables slow, balanced ripening. Maturation in stainless steel tanks with an extended maturation period on the fine lees preserves the clear fruit and at the same time lends depth and structure. The nose reveals aromas of white peach, pear and a hint of camomile, underpinned by a fine nutty note. Finely crafted and precise on the palate, with a creamy texture, firm minerality and a long, balanced finish.

A Pinot Grigio with ambition, origin and character – far from convention. In the chalky hills of Buttrio, Paolo Meroi presses a white wine from old, deep-rooted vines that convincingly refutes the preconception of simple Pinot Grigio. The wine is matured partly in used wood and partly in stainless steel – precisely dosed to give the variety depth without sacrificing its freshness.

A Pinot Grigio with ambition and from one of the estate's best vineyards. The wine comes from the eponymous Zuc di Volpe hill in Togliano, whose clay and limestone soils, combined with consistent manual harvesting and low yields, provide the basis for this cru-worthy Pinot Grigio. Matured in stainless steel with extended maturation on the fine lees, the wine is light golden yellow in colour with a slightly coppery sheen in the glass – a subtle hint of the natural pigmentation of the grape variety. Yellow pear, some ripe quince, white almonds and a hint of hay flower on the nose. Surprisingly structured on the palate, with mineral tension, good depth and a fine salty vein. A delicate phenolic note on the finish gives the wine grip and length.

Probably the most precise expression of Sauvignon Bianco, which Volpe Pasini vinifies year after year, comes from the privileged single vineyard Zuc di Volpe. At high altitude near Togliano, on marl and calcareous flysch soils, the grape variety achieves a rare balance of aromatic richness, vibrant freshness and elegant texture. 2023 was a challenging but ultimately harmonious vintage: a cool spring and changeable weather until July demanded a great deal of sensitivity, but the stable, mild late summer produced concentrated, expressive grapes with a perfect acid structure. The wine is aged exclusively in stainless steel tanks and matures for several months on the fine lees, which gives it additional depth and balance.

Friuli is white wine country. We know that. What is easy to forget: Schiopetto has also been making red wines since 1968 – and with a consistency that excludes any chance. Rivarossa is the name of a cadastral parcel on the company's own vineyards, whose clayey, loamy soil is fundamentally different from the Ponca hills of the whites. Different soil, different logic, different wine. 90% Merlot and 10% Cabernet Sauvignon – separate vinification of both varieties, fermentation in wooden barrels for ten to fifteen days at 25 degrees, followed by fourteen months of ageing in barriques and Liters oak barrels.

For two decades, the white indigenous cuvée Biancosesto has been synonymous with one of the most original and stylistically distinctive interpretations of the Friulian white wine tradition – a poetic blend of Friulano and Ribolla Gialla, sourced from old vineyards around the historic village of Sesto al Reghena. The calcareous marl soils (Ponca) and the cool microclimate of the Colli Orientali ensure that this classic white wine displays complexity and finesse year after year.

This mature Refosco dal Peduncolo Rosso comes from the single vineyard "Zuc di Volpe" – a prime example of the ripening potential and aristocratic depth of this autochthonous variety. 2013 was a classic vintage: a cool spring, a moderate summer and a dry autumn allowed a late harvest of perfectly ripe grapes with a distinctive tannic structure and lively freshness. The wine was matured in large wooden barrels and barriques and then allowed to rest in the bottle for many years. Today it displays a multi-layered bouquet of dark cherry, blackberry, graphite, undergrowth and liquorice. Powerful and focused on the palate, with ripe tannins, savoury spice and a characteristic balsamic freshness that characterises the long finish. A hint of dark chocolate and a touch of iron add depth.

A rare Riesling from Friuli that does not seek grand gestures, but impresses with its precision and subtle tension. The grapes come from higher-lying plots with calcareous flysch soil, which favours the mineral expression. Pale yellow in the glass with a greenish tinge. The bouquet opens with fine notes of lime, white peach, some grapefruit and a hint of flint. Slender, straightforward and powerful on the palate, with animating acidity and a pleasantly tart, citrus-accentuated finish. A northern Italian Riesling with character that consciously sets itself apart from German or Alsatian models – fine, dry and mineral in character. Good ageing potential. SUPERIORE.DE

Prunella Mandorlata is a beautifully amber-coloured, light and delicate liqueur made from bitter almonds. Exceptionally rich in flavour and aroma. Made according to Antonio Nonino's old original recipe. SUPERIORE.DE

In the far north-east of Italy, where the Julian Alps meet the Adriatic Sea, one man once wrote wine history. Livio Felluga, affectionately known as "il contadino" by Luigi Veronelli, is considered the patriarch of Friulian wine culture. His family was already producing Refosco and Malvasia in Istria – when he came to Friuli at the end of the 1930s, he brought this heritage with him. The Refosco dal Peduncolo Rosso, named after its characteristic red stems, is rooted in the flysch soils of the Colli Orientali, the interplay of marl and limestone that has produced the best red wines here for thousands of years. Twelve months in barriques give the wine depth without masking its origin.

On the gently rolling slopes of Monte Quarin, in the heart of the Collio Goriziano, lies the small domain of the Raccaro family. Since 1928, they have been cultivating their seven hectares with the quiet perseverance that characterises true craftsmanship. Dario Raccaro is recognised by connoisseurs as one of the "great silents" of the Collio – his wines have a powerful essentiality that lingers on. His Collio Bianco combines Friulano, Ribolla Gialla and Malvasia Istriana to create a cuvée that speaks unmistakably of the terroir of the Ponca soils. Gentle pressing, temperature-controlled fermentation at 18 degrees, six months of maturation in stainless steel – a vinification that favours clarity.

An outstanding red wine with origin and personality: "Vicorosso" combines 80% Merlot with 20% Refosco dal Peduncolo Rosso - a cuvée that embodies international elegance and regional expression in equal measure. The grapes come from old, slow-growing vines on the typical Ponca soils between Prepotto and Buttrio. After selective hand-picking, the wine matured for around 15 months in French barriques before harmonising for a few months in the bottle. Dense ruby red in the glass with violet reflections. The rich bouquet of black cherry, blackberry and plum is finely underpinned by violets, liquorice, tobacco leaf and graphite. The palate combines juicy fruit, fine-grained tannins and lively acidity in great balance, supported by a hint of salty minerality on the finish. The wine has a precise, compact and stimulating effect at the same time - an (almost) modern Friulian red wine with depth. SUPERIORE.DE

Some of the Malvasia vines at Raccaro are among the oldest on the estate – up to fifty years old, planted on the gentle hills at the foot of Monte Quarin, rooted in the "Ponca" soil typical of the Collio region, a stony, mineral-rich flysch soil. When these vines were planted, Malvasia was still considered a little-appreciated variety outside the Collio and the Trieste area – an early, forward-thinking decision in favour of a grape variety that has since become one of the region’s hallmarks. The grapes are gently processed in a membrane press, the must is cold-settled, followed by fermentation at a controlled temperature of 18 to 19°C in stainless steel tanks. The wine is then left to rest on its fine lees for six months before being bottled.

In 1928, Giuseppe Raccaro left the Natisone valleys and settled on the slopes of Monte Quarin near Cormòns, close to the church of Santa Maria. In the 1970s, his son Marco began producing wine with a focus on quality, but it was not until 1986 that Dario Raccaro consistently reoriented the entire family business towards wine production and abandoned less profitable crops. Today, Dario, together with his wife Dalila and their sons Luca and Paolo, runs the winery as the fourth generation – seven hectares, all on Monte Quarin, one of the most prestigious sites in the entire Collio region. Alongside the better-known Friulano vineyards, Dario Raccaro has for years tended a small, private vineyard of single-varietal Pinot Grigio, trained using the Guyot system. Since the 2022 vintage, this has yielded just 2,000 bottles a year – a deliberate reduction in production in the interests of quality. The wine is aged for six months in stainless steel.

Raccaro's philosophy on white wine knows no compromise: stainless steel, and only stainless steel. No barrique ever comes into contact with these wines – a conscious decision that allows the grape variety itself to take centre stage, rather than being overpowered by oak aromas. Nowhere is this approach more evident than in the Vigna del Rolat, the single vineyard plot over fifty years old that gives the wine its name. The vineyard is situated in the Monte Quarin area, in the municipality of Cormòns, in the heart of the Collio Goriziano, at an altitude of 90 metres, facing north-south, on Ponca – the white clay and marl soil characteristic of the region. A light Bora wind, gentle sunshine and the right distance from the sea create a unique microclimate here for this indigenous variety. Guyot training, 5,000 vines per hectare, hand-harvested in the second ten-day period of September. The grapes are gently processed in a membrane press; the must is cold-settled, followed by temperature-controlled fermentation in stainless-steel tanks. After bottling, the wine rests briefly in the bottle – wood is not used at any stage.

Natural distillate matured in barriques and small wooden barrels from selected soft vintage marc from Friuli. Distillation with separation of the first and last run in exclusive copper steam stills.

The Pecorari family's passion for single-varietal wines is best represented by the Pinot Grigio Gris, which is matured for 11 months on the fine lees with bâtonnage. This Pinot Grigio fermented in oak offers an exciting and complex bouquet of white peach, citrus, flint, crushed oyster shells, white rose petals and notes of acacia honey. The well-proportioned acidity, the fresh flavour and the wonderful depth and tension make it easy to see that the Pinot Grigio at Lis Neris occupies an absolutely special position every year. SUPERIORE.DE"Firm, somewhat nutty, planty to herbaceous and hints of mushroomy aromas of yellow fruit with slightly smoky and vanilla wood notes and nuances reminiscent of mussel shells. Polished, firm fruit with melting and some light wood notes, fine acidity, has a grip of ripe tannin, good substance and persistence, certain depth, salty minerality, tobacco, butter and hints of crab meat in the background, very good, animating finish with bite." Wein-Plus"Bright straw yellow colour. Fine reduction on the nose, subtle flint, precious wood and stone fruit. Full-bodied and radiant on the palate, with great juiciness and salinity, powerful, savoury, lingers for a long time, great Pinot Grigio!" Falstaff"It is fresh and mineral with notes of white peaches, flowers and stones. Crisp and juicy with a medium body and a polished, mineral backbone. Tasty finish." James Suckling"The 2021 Pinot Grigio Gris tantalises the senses with an opulent blend of vanilla pods, sweet spices and whole butter complementing ripe apples and pears. It is pleasantly round and silky in flavour, with a core of juicy acidity that balances it out and ripe fruit that plays around it. The balance on the inside is fantastic. The 2021 rejuvenates with a saline mineral note and sour citrus, leaving a youthful inner tension. The oak will need to be integrated a little over the coming years, but I expect that with a little patience an absolutely stunning interpretation will develop." Vinous

Ciampagnis is a name, not an adjective. It refers to a single vineyard – nine hectares, brought to maturity by Gianfranco Gallo over decades, on those finely layered soils of sand, silt and gravel that give Chardonnay in the Isonzo Valley a tropical generosity that one would not expect at this latitude. What Burgundy achieves with depth and limestone, Ciampagnis achieves with richness and mineral lustre. Vinified according to the same principle as all the other whites of the house: anaerobic destemming, short cold maceration, fermentation at a controlled temperature, approx. seven months maturation on the yeasts in stainless steel. No malolactic fermentation – freshness as a principle.