Vinibuoni

"Fruit that bears richly" ... the meaning of the name. Sciala evokes images of golden grapes in the warm light of the Gallura autumn. Here, millennia-old memories and modern precision come together to create a Vermentino that is considered the style-defining work (not only) of Surrau. The 2024 vintage in Gallura was strong in character and balanced at the same time – characterised by plenty of warmth from the sun, yet plenty of cooling sea air and the exposed altitude ensured concentrated fruit and aromatic elegance. In combination with a late, selective harvest, this beautiful vintage marks a highly lively expression between strength and finesse.

Anyone who knows Amarone knows it from the history of Recioto. According to tradition, Italy's most famous red wine was created by chance: a Recioto that was fermented too long in the barrel – until none of the sweetness remained. What began as a mistake became a legend. But the Recioto itself, the older of the two, was almost forgotten. Wrongly so. In Valpolicella Classico, the upper, wide-open wings of the grape panicles are called "Recie" – ears. It is these wings that hang the highest, are most exposed to the sun and ripen the most. They are carefully selected for the Recioto and harvested by hand – at the end of September, when the season has reached its peak in the hills of Marano di Valpolicella on calcareous Eocene soils between 200 and 350 metres.

In the gentle hills between Gran Sasso and Majella, where the silhouettes of Abruzzo stand out against the sky, a palazzo baronale has been enthroned since the 17th century, telling a very special love story. Castello di Semivicoli – once the summer residence of Sicilian nobles, later a military hospital, then a derelict ruin – was purchased by Gianni Masciarelli as a gift for his wife and, after years of restoration work, was transformed into one of the most beautiful wine resorts in Abruzzo. The Pecorino vines that now surround the historic building are rooted at an altitude of 380 metres in the calcareous soils of the Provincia Chieti, which have always been prized for their mineral complexity. Here, where the maritime influences of the Adriatic meet the continental mountain climate, white wines of characteristic freshness and distinct territoriality are produced.

62 years after the cooperative was founded in 1962 – this explains the name of this Riserva, which surpasses the Sessantanni in terms of ageing time and quality. The grapes come from the oldest plots of the cooperative, bush vines in Alberello training on the characteristic red clay soils of Salento. The grapes are harvested by hand, followed by prolonged maceration to maximise extraction. Then aged for 18 months in small oak barrels – six months longer than the Sessantanni –followed by further ageing in the bottle before release.

The name Plenio (derived from the Latin plenus) stands for fullness and expression, and this is precisely what characterises every facet of this Riserva. The grapes come from higher-lying plots near Cupramontana, in the historic centre of the appellation. Calcareous clay soils, cool nights and selective hand-picking create the basis for a Verdicchio with depth and Storage potential. Fermentation is followed by partly reductive, partly oxidative ageing in stainless steel and large wood, followed by extended storage on fine lees and final maturation in the bottle.

Steep cliffs, gentle slopes of calcareous clay soil, the rough blue of the Adriatic Sea just above the vines ... welcome to the Conero, one of the most renowned terroirs in the Marche region! From the heart of this landscape comes Cùmaro, a passionately cultivated, richly structured Montepulciano that Umani Ronchi has been vinifying as a Riserva since the mid-1980s. In the glass, it presents a dark ruby colour with a purple hue. The bouquet is intense and multi-layered: ripe plum, blackcurrant and cassis intertwine with notes of black pepper, vanilla and fine tobacco – all in a powerful, spicy frame. The palate is characterised by dense concentration while remaining warm and enveloping. Smooth, integrated tannins carry the broodingfruit flavour, which glides into a long, elegant finish – with hints of chocolate and spicy dryness.

Riserva does not simply mean more time in Gracciano. It means different soil. The Maramai and Podere Rovisci crus provide the grape material for this wine – and Rovisci is the core of the whole: heavy clay content, brooding, water-retaining, with a ripening dynamic that elicits the densest, most concentrated side of the Prugnolo Gentile. Vines, some of which have been planted since 1970. 300 to 350 metres, south to south-east exposure, 30 hectolitres per hectare – consistently limited yields. Only in the best vintages does the della Seta Ferrari Corbelli Greco family decide to bottle a Riserva. 2021 was such a year. Prugnolo Gentile 90%, Merlot 10%. Fermentation with indigenous yeasts, 20 to 25 days of maceration in steel. Then aged for 24 months: the first twelve in French tonneaux of 3.5 and 5 hectolitres, the second twelve in large Slavonian oak barrels. Subsequent maturation in the bottle for at least six months.

Brigaldara's Recioto presents itself beautifully with a warm aroma spectrum of preserved cherries, roses, herbs and traces of honey. It shows its true class on the palate: wonderfully balanced with its interplay of fruit and acidity and never dominant sweetness, it presents distinctive notes of small dark berries, creamy spicy flavours and dark chocolate right through to a never-ending, warming finish. A classic meditation wine! SUPERIORE.DE

The Turmhof Castle Winery in Entiklar near Kurtatsch is one of the most traditional family businesses in South Tyrol. Christof and Sabine Tiefenbrunner are now the fifth generation to run the winery – with vineyards that range from 220 to over 1,000 metres above sea level and offer the ideal location for every variety. This Gewürztraminer combines grapes from two characterful sites between 220 and 350 metres: Entiklar/Margreider Leiten with limestone gravel soils from moraine deposits facing south to south-east and Brenntal/Frauenriegel, where red, sandy loam soil faces east. This combination gives the wine both aromatic depth and mineral freshness.

Livio Felluga's Friulano is very fresh and tropical, with nuances of sour melon, young mango and white smoke forming its attractive bouquet. It impresses with a lively acidity that balances the silky texture and ripe fruit, and with a spicy herbal note that gives it unexpected depth. Perfumed and fresh to the final, leaving a pleasant mouthfeel, with hints of bitter almond but also a gentle streak of residual tension. Very nice. SUPERIORE.DE

A Traminer with cool elegance and moderate flavour - far removed from the baroque and broad opulence of many representatives of this variety. The grapes come from selected vineyards in the Venezie region with calcareous, well-drained soils. The 2021 vintage brought balanced proportions between ripeness and acidity - good conditions for an aromatic white wine with finesse and potential. Ageing in stainless steel tanks preserves the clarity and expression of the grape variety.

The name means "motherland" – and the Tedeschi family has indeed found a special spot of land with the 84-hectare vineyard between Tregnago and Mezzane di Sotto, which they acquired in 2006. Extensive soil mapping identified real crus here, including the Impervio vineyard – named after its impassable steep slope at an altitude of 400 metres. White and yellow limestone marl of moraine origin characterise the terroir and give the wine its characteristic freshness. Corvina (40%), Corvinone (30%) and Rondinella (30%) are harvested overripe in mid to late October and fermented as whole bunches – a conscious decision for structure and depth of flavour. After 20 days of maceration, the wine matures for 18 months in Slavonian oak and a further six months in the bottle.

A wine of origin and rarity value – ferentano is a pure white wine made from the old Roscetto vine, cultivated around Montefiascone on Lake Bolsena. The very thick berry skins store intense flavours, while the controlled ageing (including barrique) combines purity and depth. Medium straw yellow in the glass with golden reflections. Exotic notes of banana, pineapple and ripe peach on the nose, combined with vegetal accents and a hint of vanilla. Rich and soft on the palate, with plenty of substance, balancing acidity and a long, red fruit finish – perfectly animating and without sweetness. An inimitable white wine with a surprising fullness and elegant structure – a Roscetto that is authentic through and through! SUPERIORE.DE

Mirum (the miracle) is a statement of limestone, altitude and time. It is no ordinary Verdicchio, but one of the most charismatic Riserva bottlings in central Italy. Vinified since 1990, it comes from a particularly barren, limestone-rich south-western slope above Matelica, where the vines grow at over 400 metres. The wine is matured exclusively in stainless steel, but with long lees ageing – a decision that combines clarity, texture and ageing potential.

South Tyrol's Gewürztraminer has some top-class competition here: this unique white wine is made from one hundred per cent Albana grapes, 20% of which is only harvested as a late harvest after botrytis infestation in November. Only 2,800 bottles are sold.

When Giuseppe Russo talks about his rosato, his eyes light up with the same intensity as the powder-pink glow that settles over the Contrada San Lorenzo in the early days of October. Here, where eighty-year-old Nerello Mascalese vines are rooted in volcanic soil at an altitude of 700 metres, one of Italy's most elegant rosés is created – born from the perfect balance between timing and technique. The magic begins with the early manual harvest, when the grapes have that crystalline freshness that only the cool Etna nights can give. Giuseppe uses a traditional vertical press in which the whole grapes are gently pressed for five hours – long enough to extract the delicate colour, short enough to preserve the mineral elegance. No maceration on the skins, no artificial intervention: just the natural connection between grape and volcanic terroir. After spontaneous fermentation with indigenous yeasts, the wine matures for six months in stainless steel, where it develops its characteristic finesse.

Taurasi, undisputedly the great red of the south, rightly referred to as the "Barolo of the south", shows all its power and nobility in Feudi di San Gregorio's interpretation. The pure Aglianico comes from vineyards at altitudes of up to 700 metres, on volcanic soils with basalt, clay and tuff. The result is a brooding, long-lasting red wine with character of origin and high standards.

Produced in just 6,000 bottles per vintage, Godenza from the vineyard of the same name undergoes spontaneous fermentation with indigenous yeasts, followed by temperature-controlled maceration in stainless steel tanks. After malolactic fermentation, it then matures for 12 months in cement vats and at least 9 months in the bottle. Made from 100% Sangiovese grapes, it is characterised by its complex and open bouquet with aromas of small red berries and spices. On the palate, it is firm and clear with a wonderful balance between acidity and ripe flavours and has a very respectable, slightly salty and spicy finish. SUPERIORE.DE

In Roman-medieval times, they called this sweet wine monument Acinatium – from the Latin "acinus", the grape berry. A name that encapsulates the essence of this extraordinary wine: made only from the very best and ripest individual Garganega berries, a selection of such precision that it borders on obsession. For the Tessari sisters, this rare Recioto is more than just a wine. It is the centrepiece of their family history, the wine of holidays and family gatherings, the first drop you would give a child to taste, if it were allowed and appropriate ...

The grapes come mainly from the historic Russeghine vineyard above the town of Ranzo Borgo. The character of the Pigato here is of particular depth and minerality, which is due to the exceptional terroir and the long maturation on the fine lees. Bright straw yellow in colour with light green reflections. Fragrant nose of herbs, yellow fruit and traces of pine resin. Full and long-lasting flavour with beautiful spiciness and aromas of citrus and almond, then again this beguiling, deep minerality at the end. SUPERIORE.DE