The Wine Advocate

The grapes for the profound Le Vigne come from Baudana in Serralunga d'Alba (for the power), Villero in Castiglione Falletto (for the precision), Vignane in Barolo (for the purity of the flavours) and Merli in Novello (for the fullness of the fruit). It opens wide with aromas of fresh red fruit and a delicate spicy note. Very intense on the palate, remarkably elegant, fine-grained tannins, extremely clear, structured and long. SUPERIORE.DE

Siepi has always been more than just a vineyard – it was a vision waiting to become reality. Owned by the Mazzei family since 1435, this mystical place lies amidst dense oak forests near Castellina in Chianti: ten hectares of pure magic on Alberese soils, which even the ancient Romans knew how to appreciate. Paradoxically, the story of Siepi 2023 begins with one of the most challenging vintages of recent times. A mild winter with scant rainfall, followed by a rainy spring that pushed the Mazzei winemakers to their limits. And yet, or perhaps precisely because of this, a wine emerged that impressively embodies the estate's philosophy: "Great vineyards shine in difficult vintages."

Andrea Franchetti began in the 1990s to position Palazzi as an equal red alongside his flagship Tenuta di Trinoro, with the aim of producing two exceptional wines reminiscent of the left and right banks of Bordeaux.

Those with less patience can open now. Those with foresight should wait. The PS Riserva 2019 is at one of those points where a great Brunello shows what it has in store for the first time – and at the same time makes it clear that not everything has worked out yet. 2019 is considered one of the most substantial vintages in recent Montalcino history: complex, structured, with a concentration resulting from excellent seasonal conditions and perfect tannin maturity. For the one and a half hectares of the oldest parcels in Pelagrilli – whose vines are now over fifty years old – this meant a harvest of rare intensity. Giancarlo's uncompromising selection, optical sorter, double hand-picking, fermentation in steel, 24 months in small French oak barrels: everything serves a single purpose.

After many years of identifying the best Merlot, Cabernet and Petit Verdot parcels within the boundaries of their Bolgheri estate with the support of the famous oenologist Michel Rolland, the Antinori family discovered in the early 2000s that in the midst of this microclimate and terroir there was an even more special small vineyard whose results once again surpassed those of the larger area. It was immediately clear to all involved that this unique character had to be vinified and highlighted separately - this was the birth of today's cult wine Lodovico.

"The dynamic vintage produced rich and structured wines, with each of the grape varieties expressing their particular qualities. We got a classic Ornellaia, combining sunny ripeness with elegance in a wine defined by harmony and proportion." Axel Heinz, Gutsdirektor

For Biondi Santis Riserva, the fruits of the oldest vines of Il Greppo (30 years and older) are used, the wine matures for three years in traditional oak barrels. On the nose, initially fine aromas of wild berries, blue flowers, eucalyptus and lightly grilled smoke. The intensity increases in small steps. With time, the wine is magnificent and focused, with a very direct and impressive presentation of its aromas. The wine leaves a lasting impression in the mouth, thanks to the textural tautness of its tannins and the refreshing crispness of the acidity, finally showing more power, volume and persistence than expected on the long final. Subtle and big! SUPERIORE.DE

After many years of identifying the best Merlot, Cabernet and Petit Verdot parcels within the boundaries of their Bolgheri estate with the support of the famous oenologist Michel Rolland, the Antinori family discovered in the early 2000s that in the midst of this microclimate and terroir there was an even more special micro-vineyard whose results once again surpassed those of the larger area. It was immediately clear to all involved that this unique character had to be vinified and highlighted separately - this was the birth of today's cult wine Lodovico.

Classic Sangiovese interpretation with a wonderful balance of elegance and power. Very firm, dark fruit, fine-grained tannins and a well-dosed acid wire. As it progresses, it opens up with a wealth of aromas of forest fruits, violets and freshly ploughed earth. A magical wine from a great vintage with an already recognisable longevity and great potential. SUPERIORE.DE

Giovanni Neri died in 1986, fifteen years after purchasing Podere Casanova. He had lived out his dream – but not long enough to see what became of it. His son Giacomo, and his grandsons Giovanni and Gianlorenzo, are carrying on his dream. And to mark the fiftieth anniversary of the first vineyard, they dedicated a wine to the founder that bears his name – and embodies his philosophy: the belief that Montalcino was capable of more than the world realised at the time. The vineyard is old and untamed, as the estate itself puts it – vines over fifty years old that have never stopped putting down deep roots.

Brunello Giovanni Neri embodies all the outstanding qualities of the grapes and the winemaker's craft. Man and nature come together here with perfect precision and harmony. Its balance is exquisite. Rich notes of cherry and blackberry give way to crushed minerals, liquorice, smoke and subtle hints of cedarwood. The wine unfolds evenly and powerfully on the palate, and its flavour intensity lingers for many minutes. Giovanni Neri Brunello is wonderfully concentrated and rich, yet never too heavy or even too dense. SUPERIORE.DE

The fruit for Tenuta Nuova is harvested from a south and south-east facing slope at 250 to 300 metres above sea level. The soils are loose and mixed with gravel, which allows access to air and moisture.

Giacomo Neri's rather new top Brunello was born with the purchase of a very special vineyard. True to the winery's philosophy of producing wines only from the best terroirs around Montalcino, a small 7-hectare parcel with over 45-year-old vines was acquired a few years ago. This was preceded by over 40 years of friendship with the previous owners, with whom Giacomo's father Giovanni Neri planted the vines and nurtured them over the past decades.

The grapes come from the MGA Rabajà in the municipality of Barbaresco. The soils are calcareous and clayey, with a south/south-west exposure and an altitude of around 235-315 metres above sea level. The average age of the vines is 51 years and they are cultivated according to the Guyot system. SUPERIORE.DE

Tenuta Nuova. The name carries weight: when Giacomo Neri acquired the land around Le Cetine near the Abbazia di Sant'Antimo in southern Montalcino in the early 1990s, no one had ever planted Sangiovese there before. This was no oversight – it was a judgement that Giacomo Neri wanted to overturn. Not out of defiance, but out of conviction: that this terrain, this microclimate, these soils held the potential for a Brunello with a character all of its own. What followed was not a gut feeling, but a methodical approach. Systematic studies of the microclimates, the optimal exposures and the soils – clone selection, rootstock research, planting distances; everything was scrutinised, every decision made. The first result came in 1993. A few years later, the rest of the world was talking about it.

Vittorio Frescobaldi and Robert Mondavi shake hands in 1993. Two worlds, one idea: to create a wine that combines the best of Montalcino – the structure and elegance of Sangiovese – with the rounded depth of Merlot. A combination that had never before been seen in this region. Luce became the first Super Tuscan made from a Sangiovese-Merlot blend from Montalcino. Thirty years later, the 2022 vintage is released as 30° Vendemmia – the thirtieth harvest of a wine that pioneered a new era. The estate is situated in the south-west of Montalcino, in the heart of the Val d'Orcia, which was designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 2004. The estate covers 249 hectares, 88 of which are planted, at altitudes ranging from 280 to 418 metres, with a south to south-west aspect. The soil follows its own logic: slate and sandstone at higher altitudes, perfect for Sangiovese; clay layers deeper down, which give Merlot the power and suppleness it needs.

A deep, glossy red. The bouquet offers an alluring blend of dark cherries, plums, mocha, liquorice, leather and cloves. On the palate, the fruit is very compact and powerful, characterised by deep intensity, dense layers and a velvety texture. Very focused and well-balanced; it will certainly need a few more years to develop fully. Outstanding elegance and length. In short: an absolute beauty! SUPERIORE.DE

There are wines that define a region. Saffredi is one of them. When Elisabetta Geppetti, in 1987 – in her mid-twenties and driven by a vision to bring the sleepy Maremma to world fame – created this wine together with the legendary Giacomo Tachis, nobody could have imagined that a Super Tuscan was being born here, one that would rival Sassicaia and Tignanello. The name is a loving tribute to Fredi, Elisabetta's father-in-law Alfredo Gentili, who sparked her passion for wine and, in the 1980s, planted the five-hectare vineyard from which the grapes for Saffredi are still sourced today. The Saffredi single vineyard near Pereta lies at an altitude of 250 metres, facing south-west for the old vines and south-east for the newer plantings. The soil is the result of millions of years of geological processes: of sandstone origin, rich in calcareous marl and iron minerals, low in organic matter, with clay layers only appearing at a depth of 30 centimetres. On clear days, the view from here sweeps across the hills to the Mediterranean, 25 kilometres away – a proximity to the coast that lends the wine its distinctive freshness and vibrancy.

There are vineyards named after the place where they are situated. And there are vineyards that give the place its name in the first place. Podernovi is one such example – the three hectares of Sangiovese that have been growing on this plot for over thirty years are so inextricably linked to the hill that the vineyard and the district share the same name. When San Polo bottled the first single-vineyard Brunello from this vineyard in 2015, it was less a debut than a recognition of what the soil had long known. Podernovi lies at 450 metres, facing south-east, where the view sweeps across the Val d'Orcia towards Monte Amiata. The soils are a kaleidoscope of Tuscan geology: marl and galestro – that schistose clay which lends the region’s finest Sangiovese sites their distinctive minerality – interspersed with loam that stores water and nourishes the vines even during dry summers. What sets this vineyard apart from others is not only its terroir, but the rigour with which San Polo tends it: Four to five bunches per vine, no more – 700 to 800 grams per vine, a yield reminiscent of Burgundian standards, forcing the Sangiovese to achieve a concentration it rarely attains elsewhere.

Rich, concentrated Bordeaux-style red with the unmistakable signature of top oenological consultant Stéphane Derenoncourt. Multi-layered black fruit on the nose, plus rock, liquorice, camphor and graphite. Impressively supple on the palate, the fruit is always juicy and centred, wonderful and almost perfect in structure, polish, elegance and length. SUPERIORE.DE

In the quiet of 2019, Paolo De Marchi's decades-long vision of Cabernet Sauvignon as an authentic terroir expression of the Tuscan soul came to fruition. After more than forty years of tireless viticultural revolution, the maestro proved once again that international grape varieties do not become commonplace wines on the Galestro and Alberese soils of Isole e Olena, but express their new home in every drop. Only 10,000 0.75-litre bottles and 240 magnums were produced from the south-west-facing vineyards at altitudes between 350 and 400 metres. The 2019 benefits from an almost ideal vintage: mild winters, balanced rainfall in spring and a classically dry Tuscan summer produced grapes of exceptional concentration and elegance. 24 months in French barriques, forty per cent of them new, followed by three years of bottle ageing – this patience creates a wine of impressive complexity.

In 1977, a 34-year-old manager from Bergamo came to the Tuscan coast. Pier Mario Meletti Cavallari had had enough of balance sheets and meetings – the wine journalist Luigi Veronelli had persuaded him that his place was among the vines, not in offices. What he found: a piece of land without electricity, without running water, overgrown and forgotten. Only the name reminded him of a distant past: Grattamacco – the slag heaps of the Etruscans, who smelted iron here two and a half thousand years ago. Five years later, in 1982, Meletti Cavallari bottled his first wine – as a simple Vino da Tavola, three years before Ornellaia even existed.

There are places in this world that seem destined by a higher power to produce the extraordinary. The Oratorio di San Lorenzo is one such place – a small valley nestled in the rolling hills of the Colli Berici, where monks have lived in silent contemplation for centuries and where Stefano Inama has now completed his life's work. Here, in the shadow of a small 16th century chapel dedicated to St Laurence, only the very best vintages produce a wine that is more than any other: Oratorio di San Lorenzo – inama's red masterpiece and perhaps the purest expression of Carménère outside Chile. The story of this wine is one of vision and passion. When Stefano Inama decided to add red wines to his white empire in the late 1990s, chance led him to a sip from a nameless glass – that legendary moment of "love at first taste" that changed his life. The wine came from Carménère grapes, the almost forgotten Bordeaux variety that had been brought to the iron-rich red soils of the Colli Berici by French emigrants in the mid-19th century. Stefano immediately recognised the potential of this grape variety on this special terroir and acquired the twelve-hectare valley around the Oratorio in two tranches – an investment in the future that proved to be brilliant.

In 1994, an unusually large number of Bolgheri figures gathered at once beneath the holm oak at Grattamacco: among them were Michele Satta, Piero and Lodovico Antinori, as well as the host, Piermario Meletti Cavallari. A photograph captures the gathering. Meletti Cavallari, a wine connoisseur and close friend of Veronelli, had taken over the estate in 1977. He had the orchards cleared and planted vines in white, barren soil that was difficult to work: Vermentino, a rarity in the area at the time, along with Sangiovese and Bordeaux varieties. The first vintage was released in 1982; in 1994, shortly after the rules for the appellation were introduced, Grattamacco became the first estate to bottle a Bolgheri Rosso. It has been owned by Claudio Tipa since 2002 and is now part of the ColleMassari group.