Brunello di Montalcino “Podernovi” DOCG 2021 (BIO) · 6 bottles in OWC

San Polo | Tuscany
Marilisa Allegrini S.r.l. | Via della Torre 23/25 | IT 37022 Fumane

29152621 · 4,5 l · 134,22 €/l · Price (DE) incl. VAT, excl. Shipping1 unit available

There are vineyards that are named after the place where they are located. And there are vineyards that give the place its name in the first place. Podernovi is one such case – the three hectares of Sangiovese that have been growing on this plot for over thirty years are so inextricably linked to the hill that the vineyard and district bear the same name. When San Polo bottled the first single-vineyard Brunello from this vineyard in 2015, it was less a debut than a recognition of what the soil had long known. Podernovi lies at 450 metres above sea level, facing south-east, where the view sweeps across the Val d'Orcia to Monte Amiata. The soils are a kaleidoscope of Tuscan geology: marl and galestro, the slate-like clay that gives the best Sangiovese vineyards in the region their unnerving minerality, interspersed with clay that stores water and supplies the vines even in dry summers. What sets this vineyard apart from others is not just its terroir, but the rigour with which San Polo cultivates it: four to five grapes per vine, no more – 700 to 800 grams per vine, a yield that is reminiscent of Burgundy conditions and forces the Sangiovese to achieve a concentration that it rarely reaches elsewhere.

The vinification respects this intensity: fermentation in conical Slavonian oak barrels, then thirty months of ageing in large, lightly toasted 4,Liters barrels – barrels, which give the wine room to develop without dominating it. A further six months of bottle ageing complete the integration before the wine leaves the estate. In the glass, the 2021 shows a bright ruby red colour that plays into garnet. The nose unfolds in waves: first violets, cyclamen and jasmine, then ripe red plum and redcurrant, finally lavender, hibiscus and a hint of green tea – an aromatic complexity that needs time to fully reveal itself. On the palate, power and finesse combine to form a unity that few Brunellos achieve: silky tannins of exceptional finesse, a lively acidity and depth that speak of terroir, not ambition. The finish is long, characterised by minerals, with an aftertaste of chalk and red fruit. Podernovi is only bottled in vintages that befit its dignity. Not a wine for every year, not a wine for every occasion – but one that proves that Montalcino is more than just an appellation: a mosaic of individual vineyards that deserve to be called by name. SUPERIORE.DE

"Berry flavours flanked by spices and violets flatter the nose; full of character, lively acidity, elegant progression to an appealing final with fruit and spice." Vinum

"The aromas of pink roses, dark cherries, spices and dried flowers are very enticing. Medium to full body with firm, chewy tannins and a long, flavorful finish. Chewy at the end. From organically grown grapes. Lots going on, but needs four or five years to come together." James Suckling

"The certified organic 2021 Brunello di Montalcino Podernovi takes a clear step up in concentration and depth compared to the estate’s village bottling, offering darker fruit and a broader, more expansive presence with both horizontal and vertical tension. Black cherry and sweet blackberry are framed by spice, wet clay and a subtle note of bitter chocolate. Fermentation in conical oak vats followed by 30 months in 40-hectoliter oak vessels adds polish and texture. Despite the more immediately accessible bouquet, the mouthfeel remains fresh and tightly knit, suggesting that at least five additional years of bottle age will help soften the tannins. Only 2,000 bottles were made." Wine Advocate