Brunello di Montalcino “Podernovi” DOCG 2021 (BIO) · 6 bottles in OWC

San Polo | Tuscany
Marilisa Allegrini S.r.l. | Via della Torre 23/25 | IT 37022 Fumane

29152621 · 4,5 l · 134,22 €/l · Price (DE) incl. VAT, excl. Shipping1 unit available

There are vineyards named after the place where they are situated. And there are vineyards that give the place its name in the first place. Podernovi is one such example – the three hectares of Sangiovese that have been growing on this plot for over thirty years are so inextricably linked to the hill that the vineyard and the district share the same name. When San Polo bottled the first single-vineyard Brunello from this vineyard in 2015, it was less a debut than a recognition of what the soil had long known. Podernovi lies at 450 metres, facing south-east, where the view sweeps across the Val d'Orcia towards Monte Amiata. The soils are a kaleidoscope of Tuscan geology: marl and galestro – that schistose clay which lends the region’s finest Sangiovese sites their distinctive minerality – interspersed with loam that stores water and nourishes the vines even during dry summers. What sets this vineyard apart from others is not only its terroir, but the rigour with which San Polo tends it: Four to five bunches per vine, no more – 700 to 800 grams per vine, a yield reminiscent of Burgundian standards, forcing the Sangiovese to achieve a concentration it rarely attains elsewhere.

The winemaking process respects this intensity: fermentation takes place in conical Slavonian oak casks, followed by thirty months' ageing in large, lightly toasted 4,Liters – vessels that allow the wine room to develop without overpowering it. A further six months of bottle ageing completes the integration before the wine leaves the estate. In the glass, the 2021 vintage displays a luminous ruby red with garnet highlights. The nose unfolds in waves: first violets, cyclamen and jasmine, then ripe red plums and redcurrants, and finally lavender, hibiscus and a hint of green tea – an aromatic complexity that takes time to reveal itself fully. On the palate, power and finesse combine to form a harmony that few Brunellos achieve: silky tannins of exceptional finesse, lively acidity and a depth that speaks of the terroir, not of ambition. The finish is long and mineral-driven, with a lingering note of chalk and red fruits. Podernovi is bottled only in vintages that live up to its stature. Not a wine for every year, not a wine for every occasion – but one that proves that Montalcino is more than just an appellation: a mosaic of individual vineyards that deserve to be named. SUPERIORE.DE

"Berry aromas, complemented by spices and violets, delight the nose; a wine full of character, with lively acidity, flowing elegantly towards an appealing final with fruit and spice." Vinum

"A powerful, sparkling ruby colour with a slight garnet sheen. A very intense and open nose, revealing warm, ripe fruit – particularly cherry and blackberry – paired with well-integrated oak spice. On the palate, it has a rich attack with slightly earthy notes, revealing firm, dense tannins; it needs time." Falstaff

"The aromas of pink roses, dark cherries, spices and dried flowers are very enticing. Medium to full-bodied with firm, chewy tannins and a long, flavourful finish. A powerful finish. Made from organically grown grapes. It has a lot to offer, but still needs four or five years to develop." James Suckling

"The certified organic Brunello di Montalcino Podernovi 2021 is significantly more concentrated and broodingthan the estate's village wine. It offers darker fruit and a broader, more expansive presence with both horizontal and vertical tension. Black cherry and sweet blackberry are framed by spices, damp clay and a subtle hint of dark chocolate. Fermentation in conical oak vats, followed by 30 months' ageing in 40-hectolitre oak barrels, lends the wine brilliance and texture. Despite the immediately accessible bouquet, the mouthfeel remains fresh and tightly structured, suggesting that at least a further five years' bottle ageing will help to soften the tannins. Only 2,000 bottles were produced." Wine Advocate

"Ripe cherry, plum, black currant, iron and underbrush aromas and flavors are expressive and intense in this red. Earth, tomato leaf and juniper notes take over on the finish, along with powdery tannins." Wine Spectator