“Grattamacco 40 anni” Rosso Bolgheri Superiore DOC 2022 (BIO) · 6 bottles in OWC

Grattamacco | Tuscany
Collemassari S.p.A. s.a. | Via Di Porta Pinciana 6 | IT 00187 Roma

09772422 · 4,5 l · 134,22 €/l · Price (DE) incl. VAT, excl. Shipping2 units available

In 1977, a 34-year-old manager from Bergamo came to the Tuscan coast. Pier Mario Meletti Cavallari had had enough of balance sheets and meetings – the wine journalist Luigi Veronelli had persuaded him that his place was among the vines, not in offices. What he found: a piece of land without electricity, without running water, overgrown and forgotten. Only the name reminded him of a distant past: Grattamacco – the slag heaps of the Etruscans, who smelted iron here two and a half thousand years ago. Five years later, in 1982, Meletti Cavallari bottled his first wine – as a simple Vino da Tavola, three years before Ornellaia even existed.

Today, forty vintages later, the 2022 is both a monument and a meditation. The cuvée of Cabernet Sauvignon (65%), Merlot (20%) and Sangiovese (15%) still bears the fingerprint of the founder: Sangiovese in a Bolgheri blend – only a few dare to do this today. The grapes grow on white clays and calcareous flysch, at altitudes between 100 and 200 metres, where the forests shield the sea and the days are long. Spontaneous fermentation in open wooden vats, manual pigeage, no temperature control – a vinification that requires patience. 18 months in French barriques, then extended bottle ageing.

What remains is a wine of salty precision and Mediterranean depth: blackcurrant, cedar wood, rosemary, a hint of tobacco. Tannins like silk, a final that doesn't want to end. Certified organic since 1997 – long before it became fashionable. Forty years after the first vintage, Grattamacco shows what pioneering spirit means: not following, but leading. SUPERIORE.DE

"Elegant, bright ruby colour with a brightening core. Subtle expression on the nose, shy, fine precious wood, cold smoke, light forest berry flavours, undergrowth, with a slight aftertaste of liquorice. Plenty of juice and crisp fruit on the palate, subtle resinous-earthy tones, but shows some rough tannins in the background, still needs a lot of patience." Falstaff

"Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Sangiovese captivate with a bouquet of blackcurrants, Mediterranean scrub and coffee; with its powdery tannins and acidity, it is extremely well-balanced on the palate, with a precise, fruity and spicy finish." Vinum

"This 2022, the winery's 40th anniversary vintage, starts with minty red and black berry flavours. Fleshy, savoury and savoury, it has a very fresh and vertical profile, but is a little dry on the finish at this stage. Floral nuances mingle with pepper and herbs, while the tangy red forest berries are carried by silky and integrated tannins. Taut and energetic." Decanter

"The 2022 Bolgheri Superiore Grattamacco commemorates the 40th anniversary of the winery (1982–2022) with a special label. Rich and generous, the wine offers a creamy texture with remarkable depth and concentration. While the hot 2022 vintage adds an extra note of sweetness and ripeness, the balance remains stable thanks to the wine's structure and the naturally thicker-skinned fruit of the season, which leads to a more powerful tannin profile." Wine Advocate

"A dark and complex wine that does not lack grace. On the nose, it shows restrained cassis, kiwis, aniseed, oak bark, cloves and a slight hint of foliage. Full-bodied, dense on the palate, with fine-grained tannins and crisp, lush acidity. Long, balanced, flavoursome and slightly tart finish. Pleasing for a kind of elegant lightness." James Suckling