Wines from South Tyrol and Trentino

It was the wine journalist Francesco Arrigoni who wrested a promise from Franz Haas. He had seen the beauty of these high-altitude vineyards, surrounded by meadows and woods in the municipality of Aldein, where only wild game roams, and recognised the quality that grew from this one plot: the Pònkler. Arrigoni's request was that it should be bottled separately. A promise the estate kept – even though, at first, it was impossible to know how the wine from the grapes of such a young vineyard would develop.

Pònkler is the house's top wine and at the same time the essence of Franz Haas' decades of experience with the undemanding Pinot Nero grape. The vines, planted in 2007, grow on soils of weathered porphyry in a single vineyard at an altitude of 750 metres. The selection of French clones, which have proven to be particularly suitable for high altitudes, the high density of vines and the low yields guarantee a very high quality of grapes.

Tor di Lupo, the Wolf's Gate – a name that commands respect. Andrian's flagship wine was one of South Tyrol's very first premium Lagrein wines. A true veteran of South Tyrolean quality winegrowing, one might say. Since its early days, the winery has been producing this Riserva from grapes grown in Gries near Bolzano, the traditional home of Lagrein. 

Adjacent to the Kolbenhof there is an extremely steep vineyard, "Leiten" in South Tyrol, which is more south-facing. It descends into the deep gorge of the Hell Valley and is exposed to a very special microclimate. Thanks to the persistent coolness, the grapes ripen slowly and are harvested by hand only in November. They are then overripe and particularly tasty - ideal for the Gewürztraminer Spätlese Rechtenthaler Schloßleiten.

The St. Michael-Eppan winery began crowning selected varietal wines for the first time with the 2015 vintage. Only just over 3,000 bottles of these top selections are sold worldwide each year. In 2019, the choice again fell on a single-varietal Sauvignon Bianco from the best grapes from selected micro-locations. Gentle pressing with 3 days of skin contact, followed by 12 months of fermentation in tonneau and a further 15 months on the fine lees in stainless steel tanks give it a unique depth and finesse. After a further 9 months in the bottle, it is released for sale.

In the 1930s, Konrad Oberhofer was one of the first in South Tyrol to begin vinifying wine separately from a single, precisely defined parcel. No cuvée, no blending of different vineyards – just this one patch of earth, its vines, its character. An idea that hardly anyone understood at the time and which Paolo Foradori, Oberhofer's son-in-law, later elevated to a philosophy for the entire Hofstätter estate decades later. Pirchschrait – a historic part of the Kolbenhof farm in Söll – has been his monument ever since. What distinguishes the Pirchschrait from all other plots of the Kolbenhof is its tranquillity. Exposed to the east-west to north-east, with a slope angle of 35 per cent, it receives the least amount of sunlight of all the Kolbenhof terraces. While the other sites soak up the Mediterranean light, this one retains a cool precision – and that rare combination of long, even ripening and exceptional ageing potential that only shady sites can offer. The soil is a geological sediment from three eras: glacial dolomite, volcanic porphyry and sandstone all in one.

1908 is the year in which the Gries winery was founded. The history of the winery is closely linked to three rivers, but it is the Talvera that has shaped it the most. Bolzano is not called the city of Talvera for nothing. The old floodplains have given the winegrowers very special soils. These alluvial soils on porphyry provide the ideal basis for Lagrein in particular, but also for Cabernet and Merlot. With its good water permeability and mineral deposits, Bolzano's volcanic porphyry has always been one of the keys to wines full of character.

There are wines that change a grape variety forever. Granato is one of them. The legendary Teroldego, which has been convincing the wine world since 1987 that red wines of international calibre can be produced from Italy's alpine heights. Its name is both programme and poetry: Granato – the pomegranate, the ancient Mediterranean fruit that, like the vine, came to Italy thousands of years ago and whose ruby-coloured seeds remind Elisabetta Foradori of the essence of perfect grapes. In the historic Noval, Regin and Pedot vineyards of Campo Rotaliano, where Teroldego vines over seventy years old sink their roots deep into the Dolomite soil, a wine of monumental proportions is created. Here, on the alluvial sediments of prehistoric times, these ancient vines have grown in complexity decade after decade. Elisabetta's biodynamic philosophy reaches its purest form with these Methuselah vines: Not to intervene, but to guide nature to its peak.

"Mature wines can be compared to a person who impresses not through strength, but through the wisdom of age. These wines have a tremendous personality, a very special charisma." (Alois Lageder)

A castle ruin towers above the entrance to the village of Terlan. First mentioned in records in 1206. Much has changed since then – the languages, the borders, the owners. What has remained are the porphyry rock, the northern foehn wind and the determination to produce wine here that does justice to the village. Nova Domus – New House. Founded in 1893 by 24 winegrowers, with the simple aim of achieving more together than they could alone.

Pinot Noir, which originates from France, has been cultivated in South Tyrol since 1850. The best sites, low yields, meticulous care and perfectionism in the cellar guarantee a fine, extremely sensual Pinot Noir with considerable ageing potential. In his constant search for perfection, cellar master Hans Terzer presents the fourth edition of the Pinot Noir Riserva "The Wine Collection" this year.

Gant stands for greatness. This Merlot Riserva has been the flagship of Andrian for years. A wine that shows what this international grape variety can achieve at high altitudes in South Tyrol. While Merlot is often too lush elsewhere, here, between 250 and 300 metres above the Adige Valley, it finds its elegant side. The sites are perfectly chosen: Medium-heavy, sandy loam soil ensures good drainage and prevents the Merlot from becoming too fat. The cooler microclimate slows down the ripening process, preserves the acidity and ensures finer tannins. Exactly what this grape variety needs to develop character rather than just vigour. The vinification follows classic rules: Mash fermentation in stainless steel with gentle movement of the mash. After alcoholic fermentation, the wine is transferred to barriques for malolactic fermentation and further ageing. The wood integrates elegantly, providing structure without dominating. Time and patience are two of the secrets of Gant.

Ten years. Appius celebrates its first decade with the 2020 – and what a decade it has been. When Hans Terzer first bottled his dream wine in 2010, he had already been harbouring the idea for a long time. During his vineyard inspections, he had noticed that certain low-yielding old vines in the historic vineyards of Eppan produced a quality that demanded its own framework. Something beyond the celebrated Sanct Valentin line. Originally, the wine was to be called "Oans" – piedmontese for "one" –but the name was taken. So it became Appius: the Roman name for Eppan, derived from Appianum, the "estate of Appius".

Ten years. Appius celebrates its first decade with the 2020 – and what a decade it has been. When Hans Terzer first bottled his dream wine in 2010, he had already been harbouring the idea for a long time. During his vineyard inspections, he had noticed that certain low-yielding old vines in the historic vineyards of Eppan produced a quality that demanded its own framework. Something beyond the celebrated Sanct Valentin line. Originally, the wine was to be called "Oans" – piedmontese for "one" –but the name was taken. So it became Appius: the Roman name for Eppan, derived from Appianum, the "estate of Appius".

The exposed location of the estate on the Fennberg at around 1,000 m above sea level, with late autumn morning dew and high humidity, provides the ideal conditions for the development of noble rot (botrytis cinerea), which naturally leads to an additional concentration of grape sugar. The raisin-like dried grapes are harvested from mid to late December. After gentle pressing of the grapes, alcoholic fermentation takes place in small steel tanks, where the young wine rests on the fine yeast for around six months. The bottled wine matures in the cellar for another five years.

"Unlike anything you know: this single-varietal Sauvignon Blanc is wild and unspoilt. A special experience for wine lovers." Michael Graf Goëss-Enzenberg, Weingut Manincor

With the Pinot Nero Riserva Vigna Das Langefeld, the Pfitscher family has undoubtedly created an elegant top wine that perfectly reflects the identity of the terroir.

NA for Nals, MA for Margreid. A tribute to two outstanding vineyards where something special can be felt, seen and felt and which have inspired cellar master Harald Schraffl to create something equally special from their grapes. A wine and the essence that expresses the essence of the small parcels in its purest form, whose typicity tells the story of the South Tyrol of tomorrow, a timeless wine with recognition value in an international context.

In 1974, a decision was made that nobody really understood at the time. Herbert Tiefenbrunner had the grapes from the Fennberg – a high plateau at 1,000 metres above sea level in the municipality of Margreid – a single-vineyard wine. Müller-Thurgau. At a time when single vineyard sites for white grape varieties were virtually unheard of in Italy. At an altitude where hardly anyone expected great wine. Named after Field Marshal Joseph von Fenner zu Fennberg, the Austrian officer who once owned this high plateau. Fifty years later, Feldmarschall is one of Italy's most iconic white wines.

A long, snowy winter. An unusually cool spring. When the 2021 growing season finally began, it was two weeks behind the average. A year that demanded patience, sensitivity and foresight – qualities that Hans Terzer has honed to perfection over more than 45 years as cellar master. The result of this challenging vintage is an Appius of rare verticality: a wine of the mountains, of light, of the alpine air. The twelfth edition of the cult wine collection shifts the balance: 73% Chardonnay dominates more strongly than ever before, flanked by Pinot Grigio, Pinot Bianco and a reduced proportion of Sauvignon. The vines – aged between 25 and 40 years, growing on the limestone gravel and moraine soils of Eppan's finest vineyards – yielded grapes of crystalline precision. Each variety was fermented separately in barriques and tonneaux, followed by twelve months' ageing in wood, and finally a further three years on the fine lees in steel tanks.

Dreams sometimes have a very precise address. The Pfitscher family's is: Glen, above Montan, 500 metres above sea level, west-facing, clay and limestone underfoot. In 1984, when Klaus was – then 24 years old – planted this west-facing slope with Burgundian Pinot Noir clones, he knew what he was doing. Not as a calculation, but out of conviction: Something great would be created here one day. Three decades later, the time was ripe. In 2013, the family decided to vinify the parcel separately and give it a name – one that sounds like a promise: "Das Langefeld".

A long, snowy winter. An unusually cool spring. When the 2021 growing season finally began, it was two weeks behind the average. A year that demanded patience, sensitivity and foresight – qualities that Hans Terzer has honed to perfection over more than 45 years as cellar master. The result of this challenging vintage is an Appius of rare verticality: a wine of the mountains, of light, of the alpine air. The twelfth edition of the cult wine collection shifts the balance: 73% Chardonnay dominates more strongly than ever before, flanked by Pinot Grigio, Pinot Bianco and a reduced proportion of Sauvignon. The vines – aged between 25 and 40 years, growing on the limestone gravel and moraine soils of Eppan's finest vineyards – yielded grapes of crystalline precision. Each variety was fermented separately in barriques and tonneaux, followed by twelve months' ageing in wood, and finally a further three years on the fine lees in steel tanks.

South Tyrol's Chardonnay legend writes another chapter. Since 1994, the Löwengang has characterised the perception of Alpine white wine excellence like no other. The historic estate above Margreids holds a secret: Chardonnay vines, whose roots reach up to five decades deep into the South Tyrolean soil, thrive on barren limestone soils between 230 and 330 metres. The warm microclimate with its nightly drops in temperature produces grapes of concentrated minerality. The Lageder family gives this terroir free rein. Organic farming without compromise, spontaneous fermentation in hand-picked barriques from the Tronçais and Vosges forests. One third new wood lends structure, while eleven months on the lees give the wine its silky texture. A further twelve months of ageing in the cellar bring the final harmony.