Wines from South Tyrol and Trentino

"You should take that much time. Time and attention for the best of our Merlot and Cabernet Franc. Perfect harmony that is only achieved after 10 years of ageing in the bottle. Dense to the tips of your hair." Michael Graf Goëss-Enzenberg, Weingut Manincor

"The best of the best - you don't drink this wine every day. It needs attention, time to mature and likes to play the leading role: as the crowning glory of a festive table or even as a proud solitaire." Michael Graf Goëss-Enzenberg, Weingut Manincor

The name says it all – and rarely has a wine deserved its name so consistently. Quartz: a mineral that was formed in fire, has survived for millions of years and is still visible today in Terlan's soils as a fine speckle in the volcanic porphyry rock. 55 to 60 per cent quartz content, slightly acidic pH value, skeleton-rich sandy-loamy structure without carbonate – a soil that allows water to pass through, rations nutrients and puts the vine under controlled stress. This micro-stress is not a deficiency. It is intentional. It forces the plant to produce terroir-specific polyphenols, which give the wine the savoury tension for which Terlan is internationally renowned.

Beneath the village of Terlan, on the slopes of the Adige Valley, lies a geological mystery: a subvolcanic rock formation whose composition and character differ from anything else known in the world of wine. The porphyry forms the foundation – volcanic, millions of years old, interspersed with fine quartz inclusions. The soils that result are sandy-loamy, slightly acidic, free of lime and low in nutrients. Highly permeable, they naturally limit yields. A soil that puts the vines under stress – and thereby forces them to reach deeper, to become more concentrated and more mineral. Since 1893, 143 members of the Cantina Terlan have been cultivating these slopes. What they produce here is unique in the world of wine: white wines that stand the test of decades, whose longevity is reminiscent of the Grands Crus of the Côte d’Or. Cellar master Rudi Kofler named the ‘Quarz’ after the rock to which he owes everything. ‘As delicate as the fine quartz inclusions in Terlan porphyry – that is our Sauvignon.” Delicate texture. Depth. A salty finish.

At the foot of the hills below Söll, the hamlet of Tramin, lies the Steinraffler – a single, precisely defined vineyard that gives the Lagrein exactly what it needs: sandy, gravelly moraine soils with limestone deposits and volcanic deposits. Dry, airy, heat-conducting. Ideal for a grape variety that requires concentration. The speciality of the microclimate: the exchange between the cool mountain winds from the Alps and the warm Ora, the wind from Lake Garda, which blows up from the south every day. This tension – coolness and warmth in the rhythm of the day – is the invisible winemaker of the Steinraffler. The Vigna label, which Hofstätter was the first house in Alto Adige to put on a label, stands for a single parcel, a single voice. The Steinraffler is the highest expression of Lagrein in the portfolio. 15 months in small oak barriques, then 7 months in large barrels – the wood provides structure and depth without overpowering the typical varietal fruit. Then at least twelve months in the bottle before the wine leaves the winery.

This is more than just a sparkling wine. It is the vinified legacy of a visionary. In 1902, Giulio Ferrari dreamt of Italian sparkling wines that could rival the French greats in his small cellar in Via Belenzani. In 1980, the Lunelli family dedicated the house's most precious label to him – the Giulio Ferrari Riserva del Fondatore. 100% Chardonnay. No compromise, no cuvée, just the purest essence of the white king grape variety of Trentino. The grapes come exclusively from the highest sites of the Lunelli family vineyards, where the mountains frame Trento and where drastic day-night temperature fluctuations guarantee the acidity that makes world-class sparkling wines possible in the first place. So subtle and nuanced that there is really no doubt that "Giulio" is the most elegant label in the Italian sparkling wine world.

At the end of the 19th century, Ludwig Barth, a university professor with a love of wine, built the estate of the same name in Mazon and planted the Pinot Noir grape there for the first time, with success, as it turned out. The year 2016 was very good for Pinot Noir and for the Roccolo vineyard at Ansitz Barthenau on the Mazon plateau. Particularly rich grapes from vines that are more than 70 years old and tend to grow on the traditional pergola were to be reserved for a new top wine. They were harvested separately, pressed separately and matured in small oak barrels and are only made into the single-vineyard wine "Roccolo" in the best vintages.

Affina Riserva Ciliegio is a limited selection aged for ten years in small cherry wood barrels of various origins. This unique combination of flavours is presented in a teardrop-shaped blown bottle with a cherry wood stopper and in a beautifully crafted cherry wood box with a plexiglass cover.

Affina Riserva Rovere is a limited selection aged for eight years in small oak barrels of different origins. This unique combination of flavours is presented in a teardrop-shaped blown bottle with an oak stopper and in a beautifully crafted oak box with a plexiglass cover.

Affina Riserva Acacia is a limited selection aged for eight years in small barrels made of acacia wood of various origins. This unique combination of flavours is presented in a teardrop-shaped blown bottle with an acacia wood stopper and in a beautifully crafted acacia wood box with a plexiglass cover.

At the end of the 19th century, Ludwig Barth, a university professor with a love of wine, built the estate of the same name in Mazon and planted the Pinot Noir grape there for the first time, with success, as it turned out. The year 2016 was very good for Pinot Noir and for the Roccolo vineyard at Ansitz Barthenau on the Mazon plateau. Particularly rich grapes from vines that are more than 70 years old and tend on the traditional pergola were to be reserved for a new top wine. They were harvested separately, pressed separately and matured in small oak barrels and are only made into the single-vineyard wine "Roccolo" in the best vintages.

Troy is no ordinary Chardonnay. Rather, it is the archetype of a Chardonnay, as Wolfgang Klotz, managing director of probably the most successful winegrowers' cooperative in South Tyrol, sees it. The grapes come from two selected vineyards in Söll, near Tramin. Not only does a Mediterranean climate prevail there, but also quite cold fall winds at night determine the vegetation. Both factors ensure optimal development of the plants and fruits. The berries are handpicked piece by piece and it is therefore clear to every wine connoisseur that this is an absolutely prestigious project of the cooperative. It is therefore not surprising that only 3,000 bottles of this vintage are sold in selected specialist shops and top restaurants.

Oberkerschbaum – the upper cherry orchard. The name encapsulates the everyday nature of mountain life: a farmstead named after the trees that lined its perimeter. What sets this plot apart from the ordinary, however, is its location. The vineyard is situated in Pochi di Salorno, in the Buchholz UGA, on the southernmost border of South Tyrol – where the province meets Trentino. At an altitude of 770 to 800 metres, facing south-west, on purely volcanic porphyry without any limestone content. No other Vigna vineyard belonging to the estate lies at such a high altitude; none has such consistently volcanic geology. The Sauvignon Bianco thrives here under extreme yet precise conditions: an exceptional amount of sunshine, amplified by the altitude; cool nights that slow down ripening and preserve freshness; and soil that transfers the volcano's minerality directly into the grapes. The "Vigna" classification, first introduced for Alto Adige by Paolo Foradori, denotes a plot that is in a class of its own. The "Riserva" designation of the 2023 vintage confirms the extended ageing process.

The rarity wine symbolises Terlan's longevity: "A speciality of the Cantina Terlan are the rarities, special bottlings of mature white wines that have been stored for at least ten years on the fine lees in steel pressure tanks. The youthful freshness that characterises this Pinot Blanc despite its mature age is particularly impressive, making it perfect for longer ageing in the bottle. Terlan has the terroir to produce great white wines and skilfully demonstrates this with these rarities." Rudi Kofler, Kellermeister

Troy is no ordinary Chardonnay. Rather, it is the archetype of a Chardonnay, as Wolfgang Klotz, managing director of what is probably the most successful winegrowers' cooperative in South Tyrol, sees it. The grapes come from two selected vineyards in Söll, near Tramin. The climate there is not only Mediterranean, but the vegetation is also characterised by rather cold downdraughts at night. Both factors guarantee optimal development of the plants and fruit. The berries are hand-picked one by one, so it is clear to any wine connoisseur that this is an absolutely prestigious project for the co-operative. It is therefore not surprising that only 3,000 bottles of this grape variety are sold in selected specialist shops and top restaurants.

The rarity wine symbolises Terlan's longevity: "A speciality of the Cantina Terlan are the rarities, special bottlings of mature white wines that have been stored for at least ten years on the fine lees in steel pressure tanks. The youthful freshness that characterises this Pinot Blanc despite its mature age is particularly impressive, making it perfect for longer ageing in the bottle. Terlan has the terroir to produce great white wines and skilfully demonstrates this with these rarities." Rudi Kofler, Kellermeister

There is one date worth remembering: 1967. In that year, former cellar master Sebastian Stocker placed the first white wines in pressure tanks that were actually intended for sparkling wine. There was no market for South Tyrolean sparkling wine, but there was an idea: what would happen if a white wine were left to age not for months, but for years – decades – on its fine lees? Stocker wanted to find out. His successors have refined the answer. Rudi Kofler, cellar master since 2002, has elevated it to a philosophy. The Rarity is the result of this patience. Outstanding vintages are first aged for twelve to fifteen months in large wooden barrels – then they are transferred to small 2,Liters, where they rest undisturbed on their fine lees: ten years, fifteen years, sometimes longer. Until Kofler decides that the time is right.

Sauvignon Bianco Rachtl comes from a small micro-location of just 0.4 hectares. It gets its fine flint and graphite nose from the porphyry soils near Unteraicha in the municipality of Völs. Very subtle on the palate with fine saline acidity, fresh fruit and a long-lasting finish. If you can call one of the 2,000 bottles of this vintage your own, you can count yourself lucky! SUPERIORE.DE

San Leonardo is the flagship of the winery of the same name and one of the best red wines in Trentino every year. Opulent bouquet with nuances of dark fruit such as blackberry and sour cherry. Delicate spice, leather and tobacco notes give it a terrific complexity, which is then extended on the palate by a harmonious interplay of dark berries and plums, all flanked by clearly contoured tannins. A masterful red with a strong personality that will reach its true greatness after a few more years of bottle ageing and live up to its reputation. SUPERIORE.DE

The "Vigna" classification guarantees and designates the origin of a single-vineyard wine in South Tyrol. The Pinot Bianco from the single vineyard San Michele from the Barthenau winery has a strong personality that fully unfolds after an additional year of ageing in the bottle. It has a rich bouquet of green apple and banana, a full-bodied flavour with plenty of fruit, a medium, finely balanced acidity and a long mineral finish. SUPERIORE.DE

San Leonardo is the flagship wine of the winery of the same name and, year after year, one of the finest red wines in northern Italy. It boasts an opulent bouquet with hints of dark fruits such as blackberry and sour cherry. Delicate hints of spice, leather and tobacco lend it a terrific complexity, which is then enhanced on the palate by a harmonious interplay of dark berries and plums, all flanked by clearly defined tannins. A masterful, characterful red that, after a few more years of bottle ageing, rises to its true greatness and lives up to its reputation. SUPERIORE.DE

Tor di Lupo, the Wolf's Gate – a name that inspires respect. The flagship of Andrian was one of the very first premium Lagrein in South Tyrol. You could say that it is a primeval rock of South Tyrolean quality winegrowing. Since the early days, the winery has produced this Riserva from grapes from Gries near Bolzano, the classic home of Lagrein.

The Carménère grape, which is hardly ever found in Italy and is normally found in the Médoc, is reinterpreted in a masterly way at Tenuta San Leonardo. Deep, dark ruby red, with a broad-shouldered bouquet of dark fruit and very harmonious spice. The barely noticeable acidity makes it round on the palate, silky smooth and extremely long and elegant. With this single-varietal red, too, the winery impressively demonstrates its lone class in the region. SUPERIORE.DE