Wines from Piedmont

The Vigna Sorì Ginestra cru parcel stands proudly overlooking the rolling hills of Monforte d'Alba – one of the vineyards on which Conterno Fantino bases his entire winemaking art, true to the motto: "Il Barolo è il vino che ha fatto la nostra storia." (Barolo is the wine that made our history). The 2021 vintage, widely celebrated as one of the best of the decade, brought ideal conditions: a balanced ripening climate, cool nights paired with sun-drenched days. Hand-picking was carried out in mid-October – carefully selected, absolutely ripe. The ageing – around 24 months in French oak – was carefully chosen to anchor depth and elegance without masking the typical freshness of this unique Ginestra site.

Monforte d'Alba lies in the southern Barolo region, where the soils become heavier, richer in clay and higher in iron content. Those who grow Nebbiolo here produce a different wine to that made to the north and east – one that is more structured, darker and possesses a density that takes time to develop. In 2009, Chiara Boschis purchased a plot in the MGA Mosconi – the most recent addition to the estate's portfolio, and the one with the most intense character. 1.9 hectares at an altitude of 370 to 400 metres, south-facing. The soils are of Helvetic origin – calcareous clay-marl layers in a characteristic grey to slightly warm pink hue, depending on where calcium carbonate and iron shift the composition. In some places, these layers take on a reddish hue, tinged with iron and interspersed with pebbles. It is a soil that lends substance to the Nebbiolo, demands long ageing and produces a kind of vinous power that does not arise in this way in lighter soils. Chiara Boschis was the first Oenologist to obtain organic certification in Barolo. Today she works alongside her brother Giorgio – and the Mosconi bears the hallmark of both.

Monprà combines equal parts Barbera and Nebbiolo from vines in Monforte d'Alba, some of which are over 50 years old, at an altitude of 300-400 metres, from sites with clayey-limestone marl soils interspersed with sandy veins. Fermentation is temperature-controlled and takes place separately for each grape variety in stainless steel, while malolactic fermentation and 18 months of ageing take place separately in French oak. Only then are the batches blended – a precise, elegant blend that combines the fullness of Barbera with the noblesse of Nebbiolo.

"L'Insieme" is a small but concrete project of eco-solidarity. Just seven winegrowers from the Langhe have come together to support concrete solidarity projects every year with a part of the yield. The members include Elio Altare, Gianfranco Alessandria, Giuliano Corino, Federico Grasso, Giulio e Paolo Morando, Lorenzo Revello and Mauro Veglio. Under the label of the same name (L'Insieme: together, together, together), the wine producers support solidarity projects all over the world with 5.16 euros per bottled wine.

Impressive, very complex aroma of tar, smoke, liquorice, scorched earth, dark fruits and pebbles. With some aeration, dark, rich red fruits, exotic spices and smoked bacon. Very virile, dark and muscular on the palate, with an exciting contrast of austerity and extract sweetness. The opulence and intensity of the flavours and the still monumental tannins give an idea of what a great red with a strong personality is maturing here in the bottle. SUPERIORE.DE

Deep in the south-east of Monforte d'Alba is the historic Mosconi vineyard, whose reputation was already recognised by experts in the 19th century. It is one of the oldest known cru parcels in the Barolo region and was noted in early vineyard maps of the region as being particularly suitable for long-lasting, full-bodied wines. Its steep, south-west facing slopes have always been known for concentrated, powerful Nebbiolo wines. On a subsoil of compact, calcareous marl, criss-crossed by iron-rich veins, the vines are deeply rooted – a terroir that gives the grapes structure, warmth and distinctive flavour. The 2021 vintage showed its best face here: sunny days and cool nights ensured slow, complete ripening, while a dry autumn made hand-picking possible under ideal conditions. The grapes arrived in the cellar in perfect health, where they were vinified with respect for their origin. Around 24 months of ageing in French oak polished the structure without overshadowing the clear fruit character.

You can tell from this white masterpiece that Giulia Negri spent some time in Burgundy, where she gained the tools for her still very young, but stellar career as a winemaker. What's more, this Chardonnay in no way denies the characteristics of the Langhe. The long maturation in small tonneaux on the fine lees and excellent grapes from up to 500 metres above sea level are the recipe for a taut, fresh and incredibly elegant white.

Barolo Ginestra Ciabot Mentin DOCG 2019 comes from one of Monforte's most prestigious parcels with a south-south-easterly exposure at an altitude of around 400 metres. The old Nebbiolo vines are deeply rooted in calcareous marl with veins of clay and sand, which gives the wine intensity and finesse. The 2019 vintage is considered one of the most classic of the last decade: long, balanced vegetation, mild summer heat and cool September nights produced grapes of rare aromatic precision. After being harvested by hand, the grapes were carefully vinified and matured in French oak for around 30 months.

Albe! ... the poetic name of this Barolo refers to the sky at sunrise, as experienced from the estate's various terroirs: Coste di Vergne, Fossati and La Volta. These high-altitude vineyards each produce slightly different dawns, which is symbolically reflected in the harmony of the cuvée. The grapes come from young but mature Nebbiolo vines and combine the nuances of each plot into a fluid, elegant expression. The grapes were carefully hand-harvested; each plot was vinified separately and only blended into the cuvée in the spring before bottling. Ageing takes place over approximately 36 months in large Slavonian oak barrels (40–75 hl) with annual racking – a process that fosters depth and harmony.

Albe! ... the poetic name of this Barolo refers to the sky at sunrise, as experienced by the various terroirs of the estate: Coste di Vergne, Fossati and La Volta. These high-altitude sites each produce slightly different dawns, which is symbolically reflected in the harmony of the cuvée. The grapes come from young but ripe Nebbiolo vines and combine the nuances of each parcel to create a flowing, elegant expression. The 2021 vintage is characterised by freshness and balance: Long vegetation phase at ideal temperatures, accompanied by cool nights that preserve intense fruit with lively acidity. The grapes were carefully harvested by hand, each parcel was vinified separately and only combined into a cuvée in the spring before bottling. The wine is matured for around 36 months in large Slavonian oak barrels (40–75 hl) with annual racking – a maturation that allows depth and harmony.

Currá: 2.8 hectares in the municipality of Neive, exposed to the south-south-west, where 55 to 75-year-old Nebbiolo vines sink their roots deep into pure limestone soil. This cru has always been synonymous with Barbareschi wines of exceptional structure and long ageing potential, wines that open up more slowly than their siblings and defy time with powerful, persistent tannins. The average yield is a modest 40 hectolitres per hectare – a deliberate self-restriction that guarantees concentration and expression in every berry. Currá combines the tannic power of a classic Barbaresco with the charming elegance that Neive brings to its wines, creating a wine of remarkable complexity. Andrea Sottimano treats the grapes from this vineyard with the same respectful care as all his cru wines: After meticulous hand-picking and selection, alcoholic fermentation takes place spontaneously with native yeasts. Maceration lasts up to three months, during which the cap of marc is regularly punctured in open stainless steel vats – this intensive extraction gives the Currá its characteristic tannin-emphasised structure. After transfer to wood, malolactic fermentation takes place slowly and naturally in barriques from the Burgundy cooperage François Frères, with around 15 per cent new wood being used. The wine matures in the barrel for 24 months before being bottled unfiltered and unfined and then left to rest in the bottle for another year to reach its full expressive potential.

This is a beautiful creation from a vintage that has presented some challenges to winemakers elsewhere in Italy and here in Piedmont. Barbaresco Bernadot with Treiso fruit shows a graceful, mid-weight approach to the 2014 vintage with red and purple fruits that are crisp and fresh. The bouquet is a sounding board for cassis, sour cherry, camphor ash, crushed stone and powdered licorice. Bernadot shows a firm texture and a lingering, silky intensity, while being refreshingly natural and weightless; an utterly captivating wine. SUPERIORE.DE

There are moments in wine history when terroir, vintage and human mastery come together to create something extraordinary. The Barolo Bricco Boschis 2021 is one such moment – born from one of the most celebrated vintages in recent history and from a vineyard that has belonged exclusively to the Cavallotto family for almost a century. 2021 was the year that reminded Barolo lovers of the classic virtues of the great vintages: elegance instead of power, finesse instead of opulence, freshness instead of overripe sweetness.

A radiant ruby-coloured eye-catcher – underneath is the Barolo Arborina 2020, one of the most important wines from the house of Elio Altare. The grapes come from the single vineyard Arborina, a south to south-east facing amphitheatre in the hills of La Morra, whose calcareous and clayey soil is marked by elemental minerality. The 2020 vintage certainly presented a challenge: Periods of heat and rapid ripening demanded the utmost attention when working in the vineyard. Nevertheless, a concentrated, elegant result was achieved. The grape harvest followed with ideal timing, guided by finesse and a feel for the critical moment. The wine was aged for around 24 months in 30% new and 70% used French barriques before being left to mature in the bottle.

The grapes for the profound Le Vigne come from Baudana in Serralunga d'Alba (for the power), Villero in Castiglione Falletto (for the precision), Vignane in Barolo (for the purity of the flavours) and Merli in Novello (for the fullness of the fruit). It opens wide with aromas of fresh red fruit and a delicate spicy note. Very intense on the palate, remarkably elegant, fine-grained tannins, extremely clear, structured and long. SUPERIORE.DE

Bussia is the beating heart of Aldo Conterno – those five hectares in Bussia Soprana from which it all began. When Aldo bought Cascina Favot in 1969 and parted company with his brother Giovanni, he did so not out of rebellion, but out of conviction: He wanted to make Barolo friendlier, more accessible, without betraying its soul. Shorter macerations, pumping over instead of submerged pomace cap – these techniques quickly threw him into the "modernist" camp. But because he never gave up the large Slavonian oak barrels, his wines lack the barrique lustre that characterises many modern Barolo. The Barolo Bussia is the classic base cuvée – a blend from various parcels of Bussia, from vines at least 20 years old. Vinification follows the Conterno philosophy: manual harvest in mid-October, temperature-controlled fermentation in stainless steel tanks with indigenous yeasts, two to three weeks of maceration depending on the vintage. The wine is then aged for 26 months in large Slavonian oak barrels of 25 to 75 hectolitres, which are replaced every 15 to 18 years. This is followed by a further year of bottle ageing – for a total of three years before the wine leaves the winery.

The extremely complex Barbera d'Asti La Crena comes from vines up to 90 years old in the heart of the Nizza Monferrato region and smells of ripe red fruits, hay and pastries. The full-bodied, warm taste lingers long with plenty of dark fruit, well-proportioned acidity and fine cocoa tones. SUPERIORE.DE

Pajana - the most modern wine in the entire Clerico range - presents itself as a closed, compact wine with great potential. Rich ruby colour with a slight garnet rim. Compact nose, with rich notes of blackberry, dark cherries and a hint of cinchona bark in the background. Literally explodes on the palate, lots of ripe, present fruit, then opens up with lots of fine-meshed tannins, savoury depth, full-bodied pressure. SUPERIORE.DE

"Pio di lei", for the ladies. A name that pays homage to the strong women of the Pio Cesare family. When Pio Boffa planted the first Chardonnay vines in 1981, it was a revolutionary act in the Langhe. Here, in the realm of Nebbiolo, where Barolo and Barbaresco have reigned supreme for centuries, growing a French white wine bordered on heresy. But Pio had a vision: to create a white wine that possessed the body, complexity and ageing potential of the great reds. The first vintage was released in 1985. Today, almost four decades later, his daughter Federica is carrying on the legacy and proving that the women of this family are not merely the namesakes, but the architects.

Wine Solidarity. The term was coined by Elio Altare and six of his colleagues from the Langhe themselves in 1997, when they turned an idea into a structure that continues to function to this day. The seven founders – Altare, Giovanni Corino, Federico Grasso, the Revello brothers and Mauro Veglio from La Morra, Gianfranco Alessandria from Monforte d’Alba, and La Morandina from Castiglione Tinella – formed a pact: each would produce their own wine under the shared name L’Insieme, up to 5,000 bottles per year. And each would pay 5 euros per bottle produced into the shared fund. Not per bottle sold – per bottle produced.

Barolo Pajana comes from a parcel in the Ginestra vineyard, planted in two phases, first in 1971 and then in 1991, which is 350 metres above sea level and has looser sandy soils compared to the higher parts of the vineyard (which delimits the Ciabot Mentin). These conditions result in additional richness and a velvety texture. Pajana is guided by a deep sense of elegance and finesse. Its aromas show a gentle succession of cassis, blackcurrants, blood oranges, spices, camphor ash and smoke. The length of the wine is what particularly excites us: you can taste the characteristics of the Nebbiolo over many minutes. SUPERIORE.DE