Wine

Tramin, a small village in the South Tyrolean lowlands – and one of the great namesakes of the wine world. It is here, at the foot of the Dolomites, that Gewürztraminer originated. It is no coincidence that the Cantina Terlan has included this wine in its "Tradition" line: it is part of the region's DNA. The grapes grow at an altitude of 270 to 450 metres, in vineyards between the Alpine north and the Mediterranean south – a location that creates pronounced temperature differences between day and night and gives Gewürztraminer precisely the tension that distinguishes it from its fuller-bodied relatives. Hand-picked, gentle pressing, slow fermentation in steel, 6–7 months on the lees.

The Inghams came to Sicily in pairs. Benjamin first – in 1806, with the instinct of an entrepreneur. Then, in 1819, his uncle Joseph followed: not to inherit, but to help, to build, to expand. Together they created a trading empire that Marsala shipped all over the world with their fleet. Pellegrino remembers them both – "BIP" for Benjamin, "Uncle Joseph" for the uncle who came when he was needed. And the wine? An outsider among the Marsala types – and that's exactly what makes it interesting. 100% Nero d'Avola, from loamy soils in the Trapesi countryside around Mazara del Vallo, harvested in the second decade of September when fully ripe. Cold maceration, then fermentation stopped with an acquavite matured in oak for at least five years – the depth begins here. 24 months of ageing in French Allier oak barrels give the Rubino structure and that velvety texture that makes Nero d'Avola so unmistakable.

In 1987, Castello Romitorio was not yet a winery. Just a castle, an artist and an idea. Sandro Chia bought grapes from his friend and cellar master Franco Martini and had the first wine vinified – even before a single vine of his own had ripened. That was the Romitorio: not a reaction, but an attitude. Today it grows at Tenuta Ghiaccio Forte in Scansano, 25 kilometres from the Tyrrhenian Sea, at an altitude of 170 metres. The soils are of Pliocene origin – galestro, clay, Alberese, interspersed with fossils and shell remains, remnants of a primeval seabed. Petit Verdot and Syrah give the wine its profile: fermentation in steel, ageing in cement and oak.

This rare Riserva comes from the Garofoli family's historic vineyards in Montecarotto – a selection of the purest Verdicchio grapes from the classic hills of the Castelli di Jesi. For five generations, the family has been cultivating the noble Verdicchio grape on these medium-textured loamy soils with sandy and calcareous inclusions. The lowest yields per hectare and the latest possible hand-harvesting guarantee the highest concentration for this top-quality wine.

Is Solinas is the pinnacle of Sardinian authenticity. A cuvee that carries the essence of the island: 90% Cannonau, supported by Carignano and Bovale Sardo, all grown on the limestone and clay-rich terraces of the Sulcis. The grapes ripen under the sun and salty breeze before being processed in a classic yet unobtrusive manner. Fermentation takes place in stainless steel tanks, malolactic fermentation in cement-lined vats, followed by around one year of ageing in French barriques – a balance of freshness, structure and lasting elegance.

With this exceptional Chianti Classico Riserva, the Mazzei family pays tribute to their famous ancestor, Ser Lapo, in whose writings the name "Chianti" is mentioned for the very first time. The upper part of the label features a faithful reproduction of one of his writings (dated 1398) in beautiful calligraphy. "Do not worry about the cost of this wine, even though it was expensive: its quality will more than make up for it."

Volpaia – the foxhole. High above Radda in Chianti, at 450 to 650 metres above sea level, the vineyards of Castello di Volpaia are located on the highest slopes of the appellation. The medieval borgo, first mentioned in a document in 1172, has belonged to the Mascheroni-Stianti family since 1966, who consistently farm organically here. The altitude shapes the character: sandstone soils, cool nights and long ripening periods give the Sangiovese (supplemented by 10% Merlot) a freshness and elegance that would be hard to achieve in warmer locations. Fermented with indigenous yeasts, matured for twelve months in large oak barrels.

Arneis, the once almost forgotten "Barolo bianco", is experiencing a triumphant renaissance at Vietti and this example celebrates it at the highest level. Produced in Santo Stefano Roero from vines around 30 years old on limestone marl, processed cooler and bottled with care – all characterised by fresh clarity and lively elegance. The Arneis is fermented spontaneously in stainless steel without malolactic fermentation or wood in order to bring out its flowery freshness on the fine lees.

Rami is an attractive and at the same time very individual blend of Grecanico and Inzolia. Bright golden yellow in colour with a slight, typical cloudiness of an orange wine and an initially restrained, reductive bouquet, with some aeration then sweetly scented with apricots, dried flowers and orange peel. This intellectual white needs time and a certain amount of experience with natural wines - with the necessary amount of oxygen, it is highly appetising and elegant on the palate. SUPERIORE.DE

Anyone familiar with the nine vineyard reserves of the Produttori del Barbaresco will know that this co-operative's entry is no concession. Langhe Nebbiolo is made from young vines that are spread across the entire appellation – the same soils, the same families, the same care. What sets it apart from its big brothers is not intention, but time. After two years of prolonged drought, the 2024 vintage began with a refreshingly wet winter that replenished the water reserves in the soil. Spring came early and mild; bud break began around 20 March. What followed was an even, well-tempered growing season – ideal for a Nebbiolo that can be drunk earlier but still has something to say. Vinification in concrete vats at 28 degrees, 20 days of maceration with pumping over twice a day, followed by five months in large oak barrels – this is not a compromise, but a concept.

Sodale presents Merlot in its clearest and most charming form: This single-varietal representative grows on calcareous hillsides around Montefiascone – where fresh evening air promotes sophistication and elegance. The 2022 vintage is characterised by optimally ripe harvest, while the cool nights have allowed the vines to retain balance and a fine acid structure. Brilliant ruby red in the glass with a light violet rim. The bouquet seduces with aromas of blackcurrant, ripe plum, dark cherry and a hint of floral violet notes, accompanied by delicate hints of herbs. Juicy and harmonious on the palate with velvety tannins, lingering fruit sweetness and a lively texture. The subtle acidity lends freshness and encourages drinking, while the elegant, spicy finish whets the appetite for more. Not an opulent statement, but a stylish Merlot with balance, flow and character. Authentic, charming and typically Cotarella. SUPERIORE.DE

There are wineries that you don't find through advertising, but through word of mouth from people who know exactly what they are talking about. Sesta di Sopra is one of them. Ettore Spina was a banker in Turin for more than forty years before he bought an abandoned farmstead south of Montalcino in the 1980s and replanted it – not out of calculation, but out of conviction. Today, he and his family cultivate 2.5 hectares of Sangiovese at an altitude of 350 metres near Castelnuovo dell'Abate: calcareous marl, biodynamic cultivation, hand-picking and an annual production that fits into a single large barrel. Ian d'Agata has no hesitation in calling this vineyard one of the best Montalcinos in the world.

Pinot Grigio from South Tyrol – this is in a different league to many of the pleasing mass-produced wines from the Veneto. At Tiefenbrunner, the grapes come from selected hillside vineyards south of Margreid and in Kurtatsch, at an altitude of 220 to 400 metres, facing south to south-east. Calcareous soils and the typical South Tyrolean interplay of warm days and cool Alpine nights give the wine its characterful minerality. Ageing in large wooden barrels on the fine lees gives this Pinot Gris its special texture – round and elegant at the same time, with a creamy finish without masking the fruit.

In school philosophy, A quo denotes the starting point of an argument – the place from which everything else begins. Fabio Chiarelotto has dedicated a wine to this Latin thought. And what he meant was: Montepeloso begins here. The Swiss national with a Tuscan mother bought the estate in Suvereto, near Bolgheri – one of the hottest wine-growing regions in Tuscany. What others drown in heat, he wanted to translate into elegance. He replanted, pruned, worked biodynamically and bet that it was possible to make wines that glow instead of sweat on these limestone-rich, fossilised clay and silex soils. 2024 shows that he was right. The blend of Sangiovese, Cabernet Sauvignon, Malvasia Nera and other varieties is fermented in steel, then matured for twelve months in used barriques – no wood to cover the fruit, just one that polishes delicately. Bottled unfiltered.

A red wine full of character from the southern shore of Lake Garda, made from Marzemino, Sangiovese and a hint of Cabernet Sauvignon. The vines grow on clayey and calcareous moraine soil, which gives the wine structure and minerality. Deep ruby red colour with a purple core in the glass. The bouquet opens with ripe wild berries, sour cherry and plum, as well as notes of violet, black pepper and a hint of liquorice. Powerful yet supple on the palate, with juicy fruit, well-integrated tannins and fine spice. A fresh, supporting acidity provides balance and flow. An expressive red wine with a regional accent that shines with both strong meat dishes and mature cheese. SUPERIORE.DE

The French grape variety has felt at home in the southern Eisack Valley since the end of the 19th century. At the Ebnerhof, Sauvignon grows on barren, stone-rich gravel and marl soil – it is precisely this sparseness that makes the difference. The Unterthiner family works with consistent yield regulation, manual defoliation and thinning out in order to obtain concentrated grape material. In the cellar, they rely on temperature-controlled fermentation in stainless steel tanks to preserve the freshness typical of the variety.

This is one of the most interesting and expressive wines to come out of the Vittoria area of Sicily. The Frappato is tangy and sharp, linear and direct. And it reveals more depth and nuances than you would expect in this price range. Normally, a good Frappato always has an authentic and transparent expression. This unmasked openness is also present here, but there is also an almost accidental hint of balsamic herbs and bitter almonds, which lend it further tension and personality. It's a good thing that Titta Cilia and Giusto Occhipinti leave nothing to chance, and so this finesse-rich Frappato is rightly one of the region's most distinctive wines every year. SUPERIORE.DE

The name comes from the Middle Ages: the "grosso agontano" was one of the most important silver coins in Italy, minted by the Maritime Republic of Ancona in the 13th century. A coin for trade routes, for trust, for value. Garofoli did not choose this name by chance – it sets the standard for their most important red wine. It only appears in the best years. Then, when the harvest in the Piancarda vineyard – within the Monte Conero nature reserve, on calcareous clay soil – the quality that justifies the DOCG classification. 100% Montepulciano, hand-picked, 10 to 15 days of maceration for maximum depth of colour and tannin structure, followed by malolactic fermentation. Maturation: 18 months in barriques, then more than 12 months in the bottle.

Pinot Grigio has been at home in the Isonzo for 140 years now; with the necessary sensitivity, it develops a great deal of elegance and structure and can almost be called autochthonous here. It is not surprising that Alvaro Pecorari has taken this grape variety to his heart. A finesse-rich white with a floral bouquet and a fine peach note. On the palate, multi-layered and quite complex, the 8-month yeast storage gives it depth, length and a good ageing potential. SUPERIORE.DE

Timorasso – once almost forgotten, today one of the most exciting white wines in Piedmont. Piccolo Derthona is Walter Massa's introduction to this fascinating grape variety, but there is no question of a simple base. The wine comes from the hillside vineyards around Monleale, where clay and limestone on ancient sea beds create a microclimate that favours cool fruit and mineral tension. The wine is traditionally matured in stainless steel, with long maturation on the fine lees – for structure, clarity and character.

In 1872, Bettino Ricasoli wrote down his famous formula – the blueprint of what Chianti Classico should be: Sangiovese as the heart, structure as the backbone, terroir as the argument. The fact that his descendants have named this wine after him is not nostalgia. It is a commitment. Brolio Bettino is a single-varietal Sangiovese – and that is intentional. No blending, no corrective. The grapes grow on five geological formations: Sandstone, Galestro, Alberese, marine sediments and old river terraces – a terroir mosaic that combines depth and complexity in one glass. Fermentation in small stainless steel tanks, 18 months of ageing in large barrels: classic, without compromise. The 2022 vintage was capricious – mild winter, dry spring, a hailstorm in July, but it ended on a mild note.

Since the 2017 vintage, the word ‘Prosecco’ has no longer appeared on any bottle of Col Vetoraz. A deliberate decision – and a political one. According to the winery, the word is being misused, with the real risk of trivialising and erasing the centuries-old history and distinct character of the hills of Valdobbiadene and Conegliano. Since then, only “Valdobbiadene DOCG” – the sole, true territorial identity. The winery is situated at an altitude of just under 400 metres, at the highest point of the famous Cartizze hill in Santo Stefano di Valdobbiadene. The Miotto family has had roots here since 1838; Francesco Miotto, together with agronomist Paolo De Bortoli and Oenologist Loris Dall’Acqua, founded the current Col Vetoraz in 1993.

White postcard from the Langhe: gentle hills, morning breezes – and Arneis in its purest form. Arveja comes from selected, higher-lying parcels around Alba; the harvest is cool and selective, and the ageing is deliberately focussed on freshness and clarity. Pale straw yellow in the glass with a greenish tinge. Open bouquet of white flowers, green apple skin, juicy pear with a hint of citrus zest, underneath a fine, stony-mineral tone. Straightforward, juicy on the palate, with lively acidity and a delicate creaminess in the flow. The fruit remains cool and precise, with a small almondy accent for a Piedmontese wink. The final is long and salty-fresh. An uncomplicated, elegant Arneis with a confident drinking pleasure – perfect as an aperitif, with antipasti, vitello tonnato or simply with a good piece of grilled trout. SUPERIORE.DE