wine classics

Bertani and Soave – at first glance, this sounds less obvious than Bertani and Amarone. Yet the estate, founded in Grezzana in 1857, has put down deep roots in the Soave Classica zone. The Sereole vineyard, situated between the municipalities of Soave and Monteforte d'Alpone, is one of the historic Garganega sites in this area, which sets Soave Classico apart from its industrially pressed counterparts from the plains like night and day. 100% Garganega. Aged for four to five months in French oak "tini" – large vessels that lend the wine texture and structure without overpowering it with oaky aromas. Three months in bottle. "The Soave you'd expect." By this, Bertanis means: no experiment, no outlier, but a precise statement of what Garganega is capable of achieving in the Classico region.

Felsina's entry-level wine, made from 100% Sangiovese from the border between Chianti Classico and the Colli Senesi. The estate, acquired by Domenico Poggiali in 1966, is situated in Castelnuovo Berardenga on diverse soils comprising sandstone, marl and limestone. Following temperature-controlled fermentation in stainless steel, the wine is aged for twelve months in medium-sized Slovenian oak barrels. Ruby red with violet hues in the glass. On the nose, fruity aromas of wild berries and blackcurrant, complemented by pleasant spicy notes. On the palate, it is round and supple, with well-structured tannins and a delicate final of red fruits and vanilla. A classic Chianti from the Colli Senesi, perfect for everyday enjoyment with meat dishes. SUPERIORE.DE

Pale straw yellow with greenish reflections, clear and brilliant in the glass. Seductive on the nose with notes of white peach, citrus zest, lime blossom and a hint of almond. Fresh and juicy on the palate, carried by lively, finely balanced acidity and a delicate, creamy texture. The clay-rich soils lend the wine a fine salty trace that harmoniously complements the fruity core. Long, mineral finish with plenty of drinkability. A Lugana that effortlessly combines crisp freshness, elegance and regional authenticity. SUPERIORE.DE

"I'm particularly fond of this wine, which is named after the Border Collie who lived with us for fifteen years. Otto is the youngest wine we have – fresh and ready to drink. It's the sort of wine you should always have in your cellar." Graziano Prà

"Vecchia Modena" has appeared on this label for over a century and misleads anyone who takes it literally. Chiarli is thus paying homage to the historic branding with which the house made its debut in Paris and Brussels around 1900 – it is not an indication of age. In the glass, it displays the opposite of age: a pale salmon-pink colour, as Sorbara produces very little pigment in the grape skins. This is accompanied by notes of redcurrant, wild strawberry, sour cherry and a hint of pomegranate. With 8.5 grams of acidity, the wine possesses a vibrancy one would hardly expect in a red wine; the effervescence remains fine and lingers for a long time. 100% Lambrusco di Sorbara from the Vigneto Sozzigalli vineyard, short maceration, slow 'prise de mousse' in a closed fermentation tank. Served chilled at eight degrees, it is the perfect counterpart to culatello, Parmigiano Reggiano and zampone – dry, juicy and pleasantly tart on the finish. SUPERIORE.DE

The French would call it a "cru". Chiarli simply writes the name of the vineyard on the label: Tenuta Generale Cialdini, around 13 hectares in the pre-Alpine hills of Castelvetro, south of Modena. Loamy soils that give the Grasparossa what it needs: body, colour and tannins. For generations, this is where the Chiarli family has been producing what they consider to be the purest expression of this grape variety. Anyone who knows and loves Sorbara should brace themselves. For the Grasparossa is the exact opposite: dark, full-bodied, firm in tannin, with fruit that is more reminiscent of blackberries and wild berries than strawberries. 36 hours' maceration at a cool temperature, slow "prise de mousse", bottling only once the wine has reached the appropriate level of maturity.

"When We Dance" – sting's 1994 ballad is about a love that makes angels hide their wings. The eponymous Chianti is more down-to-earth, but no less seductive: a classic triad of Sangiovese, Canaiolo and Colorino, as Tuscany has known it for centuries. The biodynamically farmed grapes are harvested by hand and matured in stainless steel for six months – no wood, no distractions, just pure varietal expression.

The wines of La Badia have a clear style: clean and traditionally vinified, they are always a great pleasure. Intense ruby red, the bouquet has a burst of red-coloured fruit, pipe tobacco, cedar wood and sweet spices. The full-bodied flavour of Roberto Stucchi is wonderfully smooth, the acidity well balanced and the finish clean and long-lasting. SUPERIORE.DE

Suvereto, south of Bolgheri – where the Tuscan Maremma lies between the Tyrrhenian Sea and the metalliferous hills of the Colline Metallifere, the Frascolla family continues the legacy of Rita Tua and Virgilio Bisti. They began in 1984 with a modest ten hectares, and today Tua Rita is one of the most respected addresses in the region. The Palazzetto epitomises the philosophy of the house, even in the entry-level segment: top quality without pretence. Sangiovese forms the backbone of this cuvée, with Cabernet Sauvignon providing structure and small proportions of Merlot and Syrah. The grapes come from various plots on the estate and are vinified according to organic principles. Short maceration, maturation in stainless steel tanks – deliberately without wood in order to preserve the clear fruit and vibrancy of the grape varieties.

The Cantina della Volta is located on a section of the Naviglio di Bomporto canal – the place where river trains used to have to turn round before continuing towards Modena. La Volta means the turn, the hairpin bend. Not an inappropriate name for a frizzante that also goes its own way. 100% Lambrusco di Sorbara from the alluvial soils of the Secchia river, hand-picked in 15-kilogramme crates, cold maceration, first fermentation in steel tanks. What follows is the decisive step: the second fermentation in the bottle – bottle-fermented like a Méthode Classico, then the yeast carefully removed, crown cork. The same artisanal effort that Christian Bellei shows in his great sparkling wines – for a frizzante that should simply be a pleasure to drink.

Silìneo – a neologism born from the fusion of "sinuoso" (supple) and "lineo" (linear). The name epitomises what this wine is all about: elegance, suppleness, balance and harmony. It is the most classic wine from Fattoria del Cerro and has been the most successful for years. Silìneo is made from 90 per cent Sangiovese (locally called Prugnolo Gentile) and ten per cent Merlot and Colorino, from vineyards in Acquaviva di Montepulciano on soils of marine Pliocene origin with clay and silt between 250 and 400 metres above sea level. After manual harvesting, fermentation takes place with maceration at 24 to 28°C with daily overflow and délestage. The wine then matures for seven months in tonneaux, followed by eleven months in large Slavonian oak barrels.

Soave once had an image problem. For decades, the name was synonymous with mass-produced white wine from the plain – pleasant, neutral, forgettable. The hills of the Classico zone, volcanic and interspersed with basalt rock, tell a completely different story. Giuseppe Inama recognised this in the 1960s; his son Stefano carried the story forward, and today his sons Matteo and Alessio are fully committed to it: old vines rather than high yields, Garganega as a simple expression of the terroir rather than a means of increasing volume. And their Vin Soave is at the heart of this philosophy – accounting for half of total production, from 30-year-old vines on basalt-volcanic soil in Soave and Monteforte d’Alpone. Hand-harvested, short maceration, stainless steel.

Probably the most famous Lugana from the southern shore of Lake Garda – i Frati is the flagship of the estate. Made from 100% Turbiana from calcareous moraine soils, it combines regional typicity with fine modern precision. Brilliant straw yellow in the glass with greenish reflections. Fresh citrus fruit, white peaches, pears and a hint of almond blossom on the nose, complemented by delicate herbal notes. Clear and juicy on the palate, with lively, well-integrated acidity, fine flavour and a subtle mineral vein that lends freshness and depth in equal measure. The final is long, elegant and characterised by citrus fruit. A timeless classic that brings the terroir of the Lugana region perfectly into the glass – stylish, stimulating to drink and with assured ageing potential. SUPERIORE.DE

Non Confunditur – "not to be confused with": the family motto on the Argiano coat of arms also encapsulates the ethos of this wine. Founded in 1580, the estate is one of the founding members of the Brunello Consortium and has been cultivating its 60 hectares organically since 2018. The NC blends Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Sangiovese from the estate's younger vines – a "Junior Super Tuscan", as cellar master Bernardino Sani calls it. Vinification in stainless steel and used barriques preserves the fruit's freshness.

In 2019, UNESCO declared the Prosecco hills between Conegliano and Valdobbiadene a World Heritage Site. Not because of the wine – but because of the landscape that produces it: steep moraine slopes, stepped in terraces, calcareous soil with marl and clay, lapped by a breeze from the Adriatic Sea. Villa Sandi cultivates over eighty hectares of its own land in this World Heritage area – and for decades has been one of the addresses that have secured Prosecco's reputation as a serious sparkling wine. 100% Glera, hand-picked, pneumatic pressing. Fermentation at a controlled 15–16 °C according to the Charmat method – gentle, flavour-preserving, typical of the region. The Millesimato is a promise of quality: The grapes from one vintage are so good that they do not need to be blended across vintages – they stand on their own every year.

Away with the clichés, bring on the surprises! Even the Paltrinieris' most famous Lambrusco will delight any connoisseur. Radice is produced using the Pét Nat method (Metodo Ancestrale) and therefore undergoes a second fermentation on its own lees after bottling. This naturally cloudy, dry frizzante captivates right from the bouquet with notes of rhubarb, a fresh citrus note and a hint of bread. Its lingering, delicate effervescence and drinkycharacter make it a spirited companion to hearty, spicy antipasti, light meat dishes or simply a lively celebration amidst nature and cheerful company. SUPERIORE.DE

A single-vineyard Soave as it should be: pure Garganega from vines over thirty years old on volcanic soils in Colognola ai Colli. The Castagnedi brothers press the whole grapes under nitrogen and use dry ice to preserve the aromas even before fermentation – a technique that demands precision and rewards character. Six months on the fine lees give the wine depth without taking away its freshness.

Since the 16th century, the Allegrini family has been one of the driving forces behind Valpolicella. Then, at some point, the desire arose to produce a white wine from Lake Garda. The Tenuta Oasi Mantellina in Pozzolengo – on the southern shore of Lake Garda, in the province of Brescia – became their answer. The name reflects what this patch of land is: a natural oasis, rich in biodiversity, swept by the breezes of Lake Garda, set on clay-rich moraine soils that give the Turbiana its characteristic minerality. 96% Turbiana (Trebbiano di Lugana), 4% Cortese, hand-harvested in September, gentle pressing, stainless steel, four months on the fine lees, two months in bottle.

Behind the Castello di Soave, invisible to the tourists enjoying the view of the plain, lies a vineyard that epitomises the opposite of what Soave has been for decades. No mass product, no compromise. Ferra is single-varietal Garganega from volcanic gravel – of a hilltop that has belonged to the Rizzardi family since 1977 and has been bottled as a single vineyard since 2014. What makes this Soave stand out from the standard, pleasing wines: Garganega gets the full stage here. Fermentation in glazed cement tanks preserves the mineral precision, while six months in large foudres give the wine texture, depth and richness that go far beyond what is expected from the appellation.

Whilst Andreola's Rive wines each bring a single vineyard to the glass, the Dirupo tells a different story: that of the entire Denominazione. For this Brut, Stefano Pola draws on the privilege of a network of vineyards stretching across all 15 municipalities of the Valdobbiadene DOCG – from gentle slopes at 200 metres to the extremely steep slopes at 500 metres, on calcareous marl, sandstone, conglomerates and deep clay soils. No other wine from the estate reflects the territory so fully. The choice of grape varieties underlines this approach: 90% Glera, complemented by Bianchetta and Perera – two indigenous varieties of the hills that have long since disappeared from standard Prosecco and which, as quiet contributors here, enrich the aromatic depth.

Nipozzano Riserva is the most famous wine from the Frescobaldi estate of the same name in Chianti Rufina, high above the Arno Valley to the north-east of Florence. Sangiovese, blended with selected partner grape varieties, is destemmed and fermented spontaneously in temperature-controlled stainless steel tanks; malolactic fermentation also takes place in steel. At the end of the year, the wine is transferred to barriques for several months, after which it continues to mature in the bottle.

The name says it all: "Due lame" – two terraces – refers to the extreme range in altitude of the vineyards, which stretch from 420 to 655 metres. These are the highest-altitude Sangiovese vineyards in the whole of Tuscany, perched on the mineral-rich terraces that gave the village of Lamole its name. The soils, composed of ochre-coloured "Macigno Toscano" interspersed with galestro and alberese, lend the wine its characteristic sharpness and elegance. The estate, situated in the heart of Chianti Classico, has been part of the Santa Margherita Group (Herita Wines) since 1993 and vinifies its wines in the historic cellars of a castle dating from 1350. The grapes undergo visual sorting, ferment in stainless steel with 7–10 days' contact with the skins, and mature on the lees until late winter. A brief ageing period in large oak barrels rounds off the wine.