wine classics

No winery has characterised Lugana like Zenato. When Sergio Zenato started out in San Benedetto di Lugana in 1960, the appellation was a sleepy corner on the southern shore of Lake Garda. Today, the family winery owns 70 hectares of the best vineyards – a tenth of the entire DOC. The Trebbiano di Lugana grape variety, also known as Turbiana, is rooted here on clayey moraine soils between Peschiera and Desenzano. DNA analyses suggest a relationship with Verdicchio – a debate that is causing a stir among ampelographers. One thing is certain: The 30-year-old vines produce grapes of remarkable complexity. Hand-picked at the end of September, gently pressed, fermented at 16–18°C in stainless steel.

Cleto Chiarli travelled to Paris in 1900. In his luggage: bottles of his Lambrusco, fermented using the old method – fermentation in the bottle, no intervention, no dosage. The jury of the World Exhibition awarded him the "Mention Honourable". A century later, the Wine Spectator voted Fondatore one of the top 100 wines in the world. The secret is the process. While the market favours Charmat, Chiarli 1860 sticks to the Metodo Ancestrale for del Fondatore, with the second fermentation taking place in the bottle. This is followed by six months of maturation on the lees. No dosage. The result is a Lambrusco that can be traced back through the vintages – and which shows what this wine sounded like long before anyone had the idea of making it sweet.

This Sangiovese expression full of character, which bears the authentic face of Chianti Classico, comes from the privileged vineyards around Castellina in Chianti. The Zingarelli family, who have been dedicated to this exceptional terroir for five decades, rely on hand-picked grapes, predominantly Sangiovese with a subtle proportion of Merlot, for their classic wine. Lively ruby red in the glass with a youthful brilliance. The intense bouquet develops ripe aromas of raspberries and wild strawberries, accompanied by notes of violets and an elegant spiciness with subtle nuances of wood. On the palate, the wine is balanced, structured and warm, with a silky body and fine, never intrusive tannins. The lively freshness harmonises perfectly with the fruity concentration and leads to a lingering aromatic finish. A Chianti Classico that masterfully combines tradition and modernity and expresses the typicality of its origin with youthful purity. SUPERIORE.DE

Pale straw yellow with greenish reflections, clear and brilliant in the glass. Seductive on the nose with notes of white peach, citrus zest, lime blossom and a hint of almond. Fresh and juicy on the palate, carried by lively, finely balanced acidity and a delicate, creamy texture. The clay-rich soils lend the wine a fine salty trace that harmoniously complements the fruity core. Long, mineral finish with plenty of drinkability. A Lugana that effortlessly combines crisp freshness, elegance and regional authenticity. SUPERIORE.DE

Felsina's entry-level wine made from 100% Sangiovese from the border between Chianti Classico and the Colli Senesi. The vineyard, acquired by Domenico Poggiali in 1966, is located in Castelnuovo Berardenga on diverse soils of sandstone, marl and limestone. After temperature-controlled fermentation in stainless steel, the wine matures for twelve months in medium-sized Slovenian oak barrels. Ruby red in colour with violet hues in the glass. Fruity aromas of wild berries and berry bush on the nose, complemented by pleasant spicy notes. Round and supple on the palate with well-structured tannins and a delicate final of red fruit and vanilla. A classic Chianti from the Colli Senesi, perfect for everyday enjoyment with meat dishes. SUPERIORE.DE

Lambrusco has an image problem. Not because it is bad – but because the wrong version of it has travelled the world for decades: sweet, arbitrary, free with pizza. However, anyone who knows that Lambrusco di Sorbara DOC is one of the most fascinating red wine appellations in Italy – aromatic, light-footed, with an acidity structure that makes Bordeaux look old –who opens this bottle with completely different expectations. 100% Lambrusco di Sorbara from the Vigneto Sozzigalli, 100 hectares of its own vineyards, carefully selected. Short maceration, slow pinch de mousse in a closed fermentation tank using the Charmat method. No compromise at the wrong end.

"When We Dance" – sting's 1994 ballad is about a love that makes angels hide their wings. The eponymous Chianti is more down-to-earth, but no less seductive: a classic triad of Sangiovese, Canaiolo and Colorino, as Tuscany has known it for centuries. The biodynamically farmed grapes are harvested by hand and matured in stainless steel for six months – no wood, no distractions, just pure varietal expression.

The wines of La Badia have a clear style: clean and traditionally vinified, they are always a great pleasure. Intense ruby red, the bouquet has a burst of red-coloured fruit, pipe tobacco, cedar wood and sweet spices. The full-bodied flavour of Roberto Stucchi is wonderfully smooth, the acidity well balanced and the finish clean and long-lasting. SUPERIORE.DE

Suvereto, south of Bolgheri – where the Tuscan Maremma lies between the Tyrrhenian Sea and the metalliferous hills of the Colline Metallifere, the Frascolla family continues the legacy of Rita Tua and Virgilio Bisti. They began in 1984 with a modest ten hectares, and today Tua Rita is one of the most respected addresses in the region. The Palazzetto epitomises the philosophy of the house, even in the entry-level segment: top quality without pretence. Sangiovese forms the backbone of this cuvée, with Cabernet Sauvignon providing structure and small proportions of Merlot and Syrah. The grapes come from various plots on the estate and are vinified according to organic principles. Short maceration, maturation in stainless steel tanks – deliberately without wood in order to preserve the clear fruit and vibrancy of the grape varieties.

The Cantina della Volta is located on a section of the Naviglio di Bomporto canal – the place where river trains used to have to turn round before continuing towards Modena. La Volta means the turn, the hairpin bend. Not an inappropriate name for a frizzante that also goes its own way. 100% Lambrusco di Sorbara from the alluvial soils of the Secchia river, hand-picked in 15-kilogramme crates, cold maceration, first fermentation in steel tanks. What follows is the decisive step: the second fermentation in the bottle – bottle-fermented like a Méthode Classico, then the yeast carefully removed, crown cork. The same artisanal effort that Christian Bellei shows in his great sparkling wines – for a frizzante that should simply be a pleasure to drink.

"I am particularly attached to this wine, which is named after the border collie that lived with us for fifteen years. Otto is the youngest wine we have, fresh and ready to drink. A wine you should always have in your cellar." Graziano Prà

Federico Giuntini-Antinori runs the area's most traditional estate, whose family tree can be traced back to the 15th century. Rufina is the northernmost district in Chianti, where the vineyards grow around the Villa di Selvapiana and in the vineyards of San Martino a Quona, Pian de' Marroni and Cerbognole. Mainly Sangiovese with small additions of Canaiolo, Colorino and Malvasia Nera are harvested between the end of September and the beginning of October, partly by hand. Spontaneous fermentation takes place in steel tanks at 28-30°C with a 25-day maceration period. Maturation lasts 12 months in 25-litre French oak barrels and concrete vats.

Silìneo – a neologism born from the fusion of "sinuoso" (supple) and "lineo" (linear). The name epitomises what this wine is all about: elegance, suppleness, balance and harmony. It is the most classic wine from Fattoria del Cerro and has been the most successful for years. Silìneo is made from 90 per cent Sangiovese (locally called Prugnolo Gentile) and ten per cent Merlot and Colorino, from vineyards in Acquaviva di Montepulciano on soils of marine Pliocene origin with clay and silt between 250 and 400 metres above sea level. After manual harvesting, fermentation takes place with maceration at 24 to 28°C with daily overflow and délestage. The wine then matures for seven months in tonneaux, followed by eleven months in large Slavonian oak barrels.

Probably the most famous Lugana from the southern shore of Lake Garda – i Frati is the flagship of the estate. Made from 100% Turbiana from calcareous moraine soils, it combines regional typicity with fine modern precision. Brilliant straw yellow in the glass with greenish reflections. Fresh citrus fruit, white peaches, pears and a hint of almond blossom on the nose, complemented by delicate herbal notes. Clear and juicy on the palate, with lively, well-integrated acidity, fine flavour and a subtle mineral vein that lends freshness and depth in equal measure. The final is long, elegant and characterised by citrus fruit. A timeless classic that brings the terroir of the Lugana region perfectly into the glass – stylish, stimulating to drink and with assured ageing potential. SUPERIORE.DE

The classic from the heart of Chianti Classico: Brolio combines the excellent drinkability of a young Chianti Classico with a complex, complete structure. The vineyards grow on the historic Castello di Brolio between 280 and 480 metres above sea level on five representative soil types – from sandstone to galestro and marine sediments. Intense ruby red colour. Fresh, floral nose with notes of chinotto, violets and mimosa, leading to fruity nuances of black cherries and sweet mint. Velvety and complex on the palate with great harmony, elegant structure and a long, mineral final. A textbook Chianti Classico from a historic terroir. SUPERIORE.DE

Non Confunditur – "not to be confused": The family motto on the Argiano coat of arms is also the programme for this wine. Founded in 1580, the winery is one of the founding members of the Brunello consortium and has been cultivating its 60 hectares organically since 2018. The NC combines Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Sangiovese from the estate's younger vines – a "Junior Super Tuscan", as cellar master Bernardino Sani calls it. Vinification in stainless steel and used barriques preserves the freshness of the fruit.

In 2019, UNESCO declared the Prosecco hills between Conegliano and Valdobbiadene a World Heritage Site. Not because of the wine – but because of the landscape that produces it: steep moraine slopes, stepped in terraces, calcareous soil with marl and clay, lapped by a breeze from the Adriatic Sea. Villa Sandi cultivates over eighty hectares of its own land in this World Heritage area – and for decades has been one of the addresses that have secured Prosecco's reputation as a serious sparkling wine. 100% Glera, hand-picked, pneumatic pressing. Fermentation at a controlled 15–16 °C according to the Charmat method – gentle, flavour-preserving, typical of the region. The Millesimato is a promise of quality: The grapes from one vintage are so good that they do not need to be blended across vintages – they stand on their own every year.

Away with the clichés, bring on the surprises! Even the Paltrinieris’ most famous Lambrusco will delight any connoisseur. Radice is produced using the Pét Nat method (Metodo Ancestrale) and therefore undergoes a second fermentation on its own lees after bottling. This naturally cloudy, dry frizzante captivates right from the bouquet with notes of rhubarb, a fresh citrus note and a hint of bread. Its lingering, delicate effervescence and drinkycharacter make it a spirited companion to hearty, spicy antipasti, light meat dishes, or simply a lively celebration amidst nature and cheerful company. SUPERIORE.DE

A single-vineyard Soave as it should be: pure Garganega from vines over thirty years old on volcanic soils in Colognola ai Colli. The Castagnedi brothers press the whole grapes under nitrogen and use dry ice to preserve the aromas even before fermentation – a technique that demands precision and rewards character. Six months on the fine lees give the wine depth without taking away its freshness.