wine classics

Since the 16th century, the Allegrini family has been one of the driving forces behind Valpolicella. Then, at some point, the desire arose to produce a white wine from Lake Garda. The Tenuta Oasi Mantellina in Pozzolengo – the southern shore of Lake Garda, in the province of Brescia – became their answer. The name reflects what this patch of land is: a natural oasis, rich in biodiversity, swept by the breezes of Lake Garda, on clay-rich moraine soils that give the Turbiana its characteristic minerality. 96% Turbiana, 4% Cortese, hand-harvested in September, gentle pressing, stainless steel, four months on the lees, two months in bottle.

Behind the Castello di Soave, invisible to the tourists enjoying the view of the plain, lies a vineyard that epitomises the opposite of what Soave has been for decades. No mass product, no compromise. Ferra is single-varietal Garganega from volcanic gravel – of a hilltop that has belonged to the Rizzardi family since 1977 and has been bottled as a single vineyard since 2014. What makes this Soave stand out from the standard, pleasing wines: Garganega gets the full stage here. Fermentation in glazed cement tanks preserves the mineral precision, while six months in large foudres give the wine texture, depth and richness that go far beyond what is expected from the appellation.

While the Rive wines from Andreola each bring a single vineyard to the glass, the Dirupo tells a different story: that of the entire denominazione. For this brut, Stefano Pola draws on the privilege of a vineyard network that extends across all 15 municipalities of the Valdobbiadene DOCG – from gentle slopes at 200 metres to extreme steep slopes at 500 metres, on limestone marls, sandstones, conglomerates and deep clay soils. No other wine of the house represents the territory so completely. The choice of grape varieties emphasises this approach: 90% Glera, supplemented by Bianchetta and Perera – two indigenous varieties of the hills, which have long since disappeared from standard Prosecco, but here they quietly contribute to the aromatic depth.

The name says it all: Due lame – two terraces – refers to the extreme altitude range of the vineyards between 420 and 655 metres. These are the highest Sangiovese vineyards in the whole of Tuscany, arroccati on the mineral-rich steps that gave the village of Lamole its name. The ochre-coloured "Macigno Toscano" soils, interspersed with Galestro and Alberese, give the wine its characteristic sharpness and elegance. The winery in the heart of Chianti Classico has been part of the Santa Margherita Group (Herita Wines) since 1993 and vinifies in the historic cellars of a Castello dating back to 1350. The grapes undergo optical selection, ferment in stainless steel with 7-10 days of maceration and mature on the lees until late winter. A short maturation in large oak barrels rounds off the process.

If any wine has made an appellation world-famous, it is this one: Santa Cristina comes from the Vigneto Massoni, Zenato's oldest and most historic vineyard, which is regarded as the greatest site in the entire Lugana region. Here, on the calcareous and clayey moraine soils south of Lake Garda, Trebbiano di Lugana reaches its most elegant expression. The vines at Podere Massoni benefit from an ideal southern exposure: optimal sunshine during the day and cool nights from the lake. After gentle pressing, the must ferments for 15–20 days at a controlled 16–18°C, followed by five months of ageing in stainless steel and further bottle ageing.

Castelnuovo Berardenga marks the southernmost tip of the Chianti Classico, where the gentle hills of the historic centre merge into the austere beauty of the Crete Senesi. Here, on south-facing slopes at an altitude of 280 metres, the Sangiovese finds the warmth that gives it fullness without losing its lively acidity. Poggio Bonelli presses its Chianti Classico as a genuine expression of this grape variety: 90 per cent Sangiovese, supplemented by a small proportion of other red varieties. After temperature-controlled fermentation and ten days of maceration, the wine matures for ten months in French oak barrels.

The three sisters from Fittà: Meri, Valentina and Alessandra Tessari have turned the winery founded by their parents Giovanni and Rosetta in 1982 into one of the most respected addresses in Soave Classico. Suavia is the Germanic origin of "Soave" – the name says it all. While their neighbours from the flatlands have long since bowed to industrial pressure, the sisters cultivate exclusively the autochthonous Garganega and Trebbiano di Soave grape varieties on twelve hectares at an altitude of 300 metres. Their vineyards are located on the volcanic hills of Fittà, on copper-red, black and grey soils full of basalt and other volcanic rock. Here, where 50-year-old vines thrive on mineral-rich subsoil, wines of unmistakable expressiveness are produced.

Christian Bellei has dedicated his life to precision. For generations, the family in Bomporto has been producing excellent sparkling wines with the meticulousness of a watchmaker – everything controlled, everything deliberate, everything calculated. And then: OOPS. Mi è scappata la bollicina. The bubble that crept in uninvited – and then just stayed. 100% Pinot Nero from the alluvial soils of Secchia. What was meant to be a still red wine – or at least that's the story –developed a life of its own in the cellar. The perlage was not corrected. It became a style-forming programme.

Vino Nobile is Montepulciano's answer to Tuscany's big question: What can Sangiovese do if you give it time? At Gracciano, the answer has been the same since the 19th century – and it has not changed. The Tenuta della Seta Ferrari Corbelli Greco family is one of the oldest addresses in the appellation, its vineyards on the Rovisci, Maramai and Toraia crus lie at 300 to 350 metres in south to south-easterly exposure, on clay soils that allow the Prugnolo Gentile to ripen slowly and fully, which is exactly what it needs. 90 per cent Prugnolo Gentile, ten per cent Merlot – a classic Gracciano assemblage. Fermentation with indigenous yeasts, 20 to 25 days of maceration in steel, then 18 months of ageing: 40 per cent in French tonneaux of 3.5 and 5 hectolitres, 60 per cent in large oak barrels from France and Slavonia.

Wonderfully "different" and complex Soave from vines over 20 years old. Sparkling light yellow colour with green reflections. A restrained, reductive bouquet of bitter almond, flint, white and yellow fruit jam, dried fruit and biscuits. The palate is dry, warm and soft, yet fresh, spicy and slightly astringent, with a full, balanced body. With increasing aeration, it reveals its great complexity. SUPERIORE.DE

The hills between Valdobbiadene and Conegliano have been on the UNESCO World Heritage List since 2019 – as a cultural landscape where viticulture and the landscape have formed an inseparable whole for centuries. Steep slopes, terraces, manual labour, and a complexity of soils that makes industrial cultivation methods simply impossible. It is here, in the central hills of the classic zone, that Nino Franco sources the grapes for his most important wine. The estate was founded in 1919 by Primo Franco. His grandson – also named Primo Franco – , now runs it in the third generation with the same conviction: Prosecco from here is not an industrial drink, but the expression of an exceptional terroir. The Rustico is their calling card. 100% Glera, carefully selected, fermented using the Charmat method, with a delicacy of effervescence and freshness that demonstrates what distinguishes Valdobbiadene Superiore from ordinary Prosecco IGT.

The Valdobbiadene Prosecco Superiore Bosco di Gica Brut is tangy and taut with sharp flavours of lemon, green apple and crisp white peach. The wine is delicate and bright with sharp, tiny bubbles that build beautifully to create lovely foam and lively effervescence. This is one of the most edgy and straightforward of Franco Adami's great sparkling wines. SUPERIORE.DE

The 120 in the name stands for the days: exactly 120 days of maturation on the fine yeast particles after the second fermentation in the autoclave. This is unusual in the Charmat process – a patience that is more familiar from the Metodo Classico, but which is deliberately applied to Prosecco here. The name La Rivetta refers to Villa Sandi's most famous address: its own vineyard in Cartizze, the Grand Cru of Valdobbiadene. The 120 does not come from Cartizze – but from the surrounding hills of San Pietro di Barbozza, on morainic soils with calcareous sandstone and clay. 100% Glera, hand-picked, maximum yield 120 quintals per hectare. Gentle whole bunch pressing, controlled fermentation at 15–16 °C – then the aforementioned 120 days.

A genuine Lambrusco cru from the 15-hectare Vigna del Cristo vineyard, which underwent a second fermentation using the Charmat method for three months in a pressure tank. Salmon pink in colour. Aromas of pink grapefruit and subtle hints of raspberries. On the palate, it is bold, fresh, lively and bone-dry – —perfect for fans of zero dosage. Very fine bubbles that linger for a long time. A long finish with delicately tart fruit. Ideal as an aperitif, with mussels, oysters and cold fish starters. SUPERIORE.DE

Of the 43 classified Rive sites in the Valdobbiadene area, San Pietro di Barbozza is considered one of the most demanding. The hills of morainic origin, steep, difficult to access, with calcareous soils of loam and clay – they lie in the direct neighbourhood of Cartizze, the appellation's most famous Grand Cru. Not a bad neighbour. The demanding manual harvest is carried out exclusively from the highest, sunniest plots – deliberately selected for concentration and flavour. Only the best grapes from each vintage qualify for the limited Rive bottling. Gentle whole-cluster pressing, fermentation at a controlled temperature, second fermentation using the Charmat method – with a residual sugar content of less than 6 g/l = extra brut.

Some wines are documents. The "26° Primo" is both – wine and document at the same time. The name commemorates the 26th founding year of the Azienda Agricola Andreola: 2009, when Nazzareno Pola handed over the winery to his son Stefano and the denomination simultaneously made the leap to DOCG. A wine as a baton – between generations, between an ancient winemaking tradition and its modern aspirations. The grapes come from the oldest core estate of the winery: around four hectares of steep slopes in Col San Martino, the place in the southernmost part of the chain of hills between Vidor and Vittorio Veneto, where Andreola has been rooted since its foundation. The vineyards lie at an altitude of 300 to 500 metres – partly on calcareous conglomerate soils, partly on calcareous marl, interspersed with centuries-old Glera vines and small proportions of indigenous varieties such as Bianchetta, Perera and Verdiso. The slopes are so steep that all the work has to be done by hand. Viticoltura eroica – heroic winemaking – is not a marketing term here, but a daily reality.

Soligo and Col San Martino share the same geological origin – the same system of steep ridges between Vidor and Vittorio Veneto, the same limestone conglomerate rocks, the same heroic steepness of 300 to 500 metres. And yet the Más de Fer is a different wine. The difference lies in the soil. The plots on Col de Fer and San Gallo – around five hectares on a single contiguous slope, exposed to the south-east – grow exclusively on pure limestone conglomerate, without the marl inclusions that give Col San Martino its aromatic intensity. The thinnest soils, roots directly in the rock, constant light stress – but the result is not less, but different: fine elegance instead of power, verticality instead of breadth, a purity of expression that Andreola deliberately responds to with the extra dry dosage. The 14 g/l residual sugar is not a concession to the mass taste – they are the exact balance that this finesse needs.

San Pietro di Barbozza is no unknown name within the appellation. Anyone familiar with the hills knows that this is also where Cartizze is found. This legendary 107-hectare slope, the grand cru of the entire Valdobbiadene region, borders directly on the municipality of San Pietro di Barbozza – the same steep limestone cliffs, the same heroic hillside, the same ‘Biancone’ – that fine-grained limestone which has been breaking out of the mountain for millennia, imbuing the soils of this area with a sharp minerality. Andreola only began cultivating this plot for harvest 2024 harvest – just two hectares, facing east to west, with slopes of up to 80%. The soils become thinner with increasing altitude, until the roots reach directly into the limestone. No buffer, no storage – just rock and freshness.