wine classics

Vino Nobile is Montepulciano's answer to Tuscany's big question: What can Sangiovese do if you give it time? At Gracciano, the answer has been the same since the 19th century – and it has not changed. The Tenuta della Seta Ferrari Corbelli Greco family is one of the oldest addresses in the appellation, its vineyards on the Rovisci, Maramai and Toraia crus lie at 300 to 350 metres in south to south-easterly exposure, on clay soils that allow the Prugnolo Gentile to ripen slowly and fully, which is exactly what it needs. 90 per cent Prugnolo Gentile, ten per cent Merlot – a classic Gracciano assemblage. Fermentation with indigenous yeasts, 20 to 25 days of maceration in steel, then 18 months of ageing: 40 per cent in French tonneaux of 3.5 and 5 hectolitres, 60 per cent in large oak barrels from France and Slavonia.

Christian Bellei has dedicated his life to precision. For generations, the family in Bomporto has been producing excellent sparkling wines with the meticulousness of a watchmaker – everything controlled, everything deliberate, everything calculated. And then: OOPS. Mi è scappata la bollicina. The bubble that crept in uninvited – and then just stayed. 100% Pinot Nero from the alluvial soils of Secchia. What was meant to be a still red wine – or at least that's the story –developed a life of its own in the cellar. The perlage was not corrected. It became a style-forming programme.

Wonderfully "different" and complex Soave from vines over 20 years old. Sparkling light yellow colour with green reflections. A restrained, reductive bouquet of bitter almond, flint, white and yellow fruit jam, dried fruit and biscuits. The palate is dry, warm and soft, yet fresh, spicy and slightly astringent, with a full, balanced body. With increasing aeration, it reveals its great complexity. SUPERIORE.DE

Rustico is Nino Franco's bestseller. Brilliant silver-green colour. Fresh aroma of apple, white flowers and cut grass, with a tart coolness and well nuanced fruit on the palate and a delicate melting texture. A stylish and very sociable all-rounder at a high level! SUPERIORE.DE

The 120 in the name stands for the days: exactly 120 days of maturation on the fine yeast particles after the second fermentation in the autoclave. This is unusual in the Charmat process – a patience that is more familiar from the Metodo Classico, but which is deliberately applied to Prosecco here. The name La Rivetta refers to Villa Sandi's most famous address: its own vineyard in Cartizze, the Grand Cru of Valdobbiadene. The 120 does not come from Cartizze – but from the surrounding hills of San Pietro di Barbozza, on morainic soils with calcareous sandstone and clay. 100% Glera, hand-picked, maximum yield 120 quintals per hectare. Gentle whole bunch pressing, controlled fermentation at 15–16 °C – then the aforementioned 120 days.

In the divine valley – the translation of Dievole – has been cultivating vines since 1090, twelve kilometres north of Siena. Since the takeover by Alejandro Bulgheroni in 2013 and organic certification in 2017, the traditional estate has experienced an impressive renaissance. The classic blend of Sangiovese, Canaiolo and Colorino matures for 13 months in large, unroasted French oak barrels, which gives the wine its characteristic elegance.

Some wines are documents. The "26° Primo" is both – wine and document at the same time. The name commemorates the 26th year that Azienda Agricola Andreola was founded: 2009, when Nazzareno Pola handed over the winery to his son Stefano and the denomination simultaneously made the leap to DOCG. A wine as a baton – between generations, between an ancient winemaking tradition and its modern aspirations. The grapes come from the oldest core estate of the winery: around four hectares of steep slopes in Col San Martino, the place in the southernmost part of the chain of hills between Vidor and Vittorio Veneto, where Andreola has been rooted since its foundation. The vineyards lie at an altitude of 300 to 500 metres – partly on calcareous conglomerate soils, partly on calcareous marl, interspersed with centuries-old Glera vines and small proportions of indigenous varieties such as Bianchetta, Perera and Verdiso. The slopes are so steep that all the work has to be done by hand. Viticoltura eroica – heroic winemaking – is not a marketing term here, but a daily reality.

Of the 43 classified Rive sites in the Valdobbiadene area, San Pietro di Barbozza is considered one of the most demanding. The hills of morainic origin, steep, difficult to access, with calcareous soils of loam and clay – they lie in the direct neighbourhood of Cartizze, the appellation's most famous Grand Cru. Not a bad neighbour. The demanding manual harvest is carried out exclusively from the highest, sunniest plots – deliberately selected for concentration and flavour. Only the best grapes from each vintage qualify for the limited Rive bottling. Gentle whole-cluster pressing, fermentation at a controlled temperature, second fermentation using the Charmat method – with a residual sugar content of less than 6 g/l = extra brut.

Soligo and Col San Martino share the same geological origin – the same system of steep ridges between Vidor and Vittorio Veneto, the same limestone conglomerate rocks, the same heroic steepness of 300 to 500 metres. And yet the Más de Fer is a different wine. The difference lies in the soil. The plots on Col de Fer and San Gallo – around five hectares on a single contiguous slope, exposed to the south-east – grow exclusively on pure limestone conglomerate, without the marl inclusions that give Col San Martino its aromatic intensity. The thinnest soils, roots directly in the rock, constant light stress – but the result is not less, but different: fine elegance instead of power, verticality instead of breadth, a purity of expression that Andreola deliberately responds to with the extra dry dosage. The 14 g/l residual sugar is not a concession to the mass taste – they are the exact balance that this finesse needs.

A Chianti Classico that is created when centuries-old tradition meets contemporary winemaking: organically farmed since the 1980s, the vineyards of Monti-in-Chianti and Vitignano (located slightly below) strive for expression and balance from clay-loam and limestone soils. The vines (90% Sangiovese supplemented by some Colorino, Canaiolo and Ciliegiolo) are rooted at altitudes between 250 metres and 330 metres above sea level.

San Pietro di Barbozza is not an unknown name in the Denominazione. Anyone who knows the hills knows that Cartizze is also located here. This legendary 107-hectare slope, the grand cru of the entire Valdobbiadene, borders directly on the municipality of San Pietro di Barbozza – the same steep limestone cliffs, the same heroic slope, the same "Biancone", the fine-grained limestone that has been erupting from the mountain for thousands of years and charges the soils of this zone with sharp minerality. Andreola only began cultivating this parcel for the 2024 harvest – just two hectares, exposed from east to west, with slopes of up to 80%. The soils become thinner with increasing altitude until the roots reach directly into the Biancone. No buffer, no reservoir – only rock and freshness.

When a princess decided to bottle wine in 1958, she didn't do it just like that, but with ambition. Eleonora Ruspoli Berlingieri, who brought the historic Lilliano estate near Castellina in Chianti into family ownership back in 1920, was the first to recognise the oenological potential of this location. At her side: Giulio Gambelli, legendary Sangiovese guru and one of the great interpreters of Tuscan wines. Today, the brothers Giulio and Pietro Ruspoli carry on the legacy – the family still resides in the historic Palazzo Ruspoli in the heart of Rome. The Chianti Classico, which is named after them, comes from around 40 hectares of vineyards on calcareous, stony Alberese soils, which delay the ripening of the grapes at an altitude of around 300 metres and thus preserve acidity and aromatic freshness. The organically farmed vineyards produce a cuvée of 90 per cent Sangiovese, supplemented by five per cent each of Colorino and Merlot – a classic blend that complies with the DOCG statute and emphasises the typicality of the zone.

In May, when the iris – tuscan "giaggiolo" – the vineyards of Lamole are bathed in violet light, the soul of this wine is revealed. The name Maggiolo was born from the fusion of flower and month: a Chianti Classico that expresses the sunny generosity of the altitudes between 420 and 655 metres in liquid form. Unlike the purist Duelame, Maggiolo is a blend of 80% Sangiovese with 10% each of Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot. After visual berry selection, the grapes ferment separately in stainless steel. The Sangiovese matures for 18 months in large oak barrels, the international varieties in barriques – a marriage that combines structure and suppleness.

In Col San Martino, almost every second family bears the name Merotto. To distinguish the family from Graziano Merotto, they were given a nickname – and this nickname now appears on the label of its oldest brut sparkling wine. Bareta: a gesture of belonging, from the dialect directly into the glass. 100% Glera, exclusively from vineyards in Col San Martino, on yellowish-bluish marl with grey sandstone, 200 to 400 metres, south to south-east exposure, double-bend training. Gentle pressing, single-varietal fermentation at controlled temperature, second fermentation 50 to 60 days in autoclaves at 12–13 °C. Residual sugar < 8 g/litre – the dry end of the brut spectrum. Graziano calls Bareta the brut representation of his stylistic conviction.

Vines have been known in Col San Martino for over two thousand years. The Merotto family does not say this as an advertising message – it is simply what characterises the history of this small village. Graziano Merotto has developed his parents' winery into one of the most stylistically independent addresses in Valdobbiadene: no compromise on location, no compromise on care, no compromise on style. Colbelo is Merotto's oldest and most famous wine – the same character, the same standards for decades. 100% Glera from vineyards at 300 metres, south-facing, yellowish-bluish marl and sandstone, Sylvoz training. Vines from 15 to 18 years old. Hand-picked at the end of September, gentle pressing, single-varietal fermentation at a controlled temperature, second fermentation for 40 days in autoclaves at 12–13 °C. Residual sugar 16 g/litre – extra dry, which is the most obvious (and classic) choice for this grape variety and terroir.

Rive di Rolle lies in the shelter of the Trevigian Prealps – warmer than the more open sites of the Denominazione, with higher average annual temperatures and deep, fine-grained clay-marl soils that retain moisture and ensure a consistent water balance for the vines even in dry years. The result is a Glera that matures differently than elsewhere: more opulent, more fruit-driven, with an aromatic spectrum that goes far beyond the floral notes of the limestone vineyards. The Vigna Ochera is the most perfect representative of this terroir logic in the Andreola portfolio.

Refrontolo lies on the eastern edge of the denominazione – quieter, warmer, a half tone lower than the steep slopes of the core zone. The Col del Forno vineyard is a natural amphitheatre of around four hectares at 250 metres, nestled between forests and terraced slopes. Andreola acquired the plot in 2016 – and the wine was one of the most convincing of the entire Rive line right from the start. What distinguishes Refrontolo from Col San Martino is not quality, but character. The clayey, marly soils with karst formations dating back to before the last ice age reliably retain moisture – providing a stable water supply for the vines even in dry years. Temperatures are slightly higher than in the west of the denomination and ripening begins earlier. The result is not intense floral wines, but Glera with ripe fruit: hawthorn, wisteria, apple, peach and yellow citrus fruits – a warmer, more complex spectrum of flavours.

The sparkling classic from Italy's leading Prosecco winery is now certified organic. Radiant in the glass, with the scent of white flowers and fruit, extremely fine and elegant in flavour. Clean, delicate finish. SUPERIORE.DE

Graziano Merotto has named wines after parcels of land, after decades of experience, and also after himself. This one, however, he named after his daughter. La Primavera di Barbara – barbara's spring. What at first sounds like a gesture of affection is also a precise description of the wine: bright, blooming, with a vibrancy that can only be found in the best season.

The first alcoholic fermentation of the must takes place in steel tanks on the fine lees at a controlled temperature and after a waiting period of at least six months, the wine is bottled. The bottles remain at a constant temperature of 12°C so that the wine can undergo its second fermentation and mature on its own yeasts, which remain at the bottom of the bottle as a light sediment (note: it is not filtered!).