The Wine Advocate

Testamatta means something like "crazy in the head" and this name sums it up perfectly. When you know the mad obsession with which Bibi Graetz pursues viticulture on the island of Giglio, you no longer have to wonder about the terrificand highly personalised results that Bibi has been bottling for years. This was preceded by several years of experimentation, research and a lot of hard work until the best of the over 100-year-old Ansonica vines from the rocky Serrone vineyard were finally identified.

1,900 bottles of this 0.8-hectare Cabernet Franc single vineyard "Campo di Tenaglia" (at an altitude of approx. 550 metres, mainly limestone) are sold worldwide in specialist shops and on the menus of the best restaurants. An impenetrable, dark-coloured wine with a bouquet of flint, crushed minerals and some chalk. The texture is rich and opulent, but always supple with a hint of minerality. Campo di Tenaglia is one of the juiciest Cabernet Francs we have ever had in our glass. Wonderful, long final and certainly great Storage potential. SUPERIORE.DE

Just 2,100 bottles of this 1.5-hectare single-vineyard Cabernet Franc "Campo di Magnacosta" (a former riverbed with mainly clay, gravel and crushed stone soil) are sold worldwide in specialised shops and on the menus of the best restaurants. The vines were planted in the mid-1990s and come from the Pomerol region. In terms of aromatic intensity, Magnacosta is probably the most sensual and elegant of the estate's three great Cabernets. It is very straightforward, but somewhat less powerful and intense. It subtly combines black fruit flavours with spicy notes, tar and antique leather. It is already silky and elegant and will certainly become even more refined over the years. SUPERIORE.DE

This is more than a wine – it is the essence of a project born in 1999 with the vision of showing the world the finest that Bolgheri is capable of producing. From five selected vineyard sites between 80 and 220 metres above sea level – argentiera, Ginestre, Ventaglio, Porcarecce and Ceccosodo – a cuvée has emerged that has been a contemporary symbol of Italian winemaking since its debut vintage in 2003. The 2021 vintage is the culmination of an extraordinary era: 48% Merlot is combined with 45% Cabernet Sauvignon and 7% Cabernet Franc to create a Bordeaux-inspired masterpiece that nevertheless breathes an unmistakable Tuscan soul. Sourced from the Tenuta's best plots, where sandy, calcareous and stony soils thrive between Mediterranean scrub and the salty tang of the Tyrrhenian Sea, each grape embodies the unique terroir identity of this privileged location.

Testamatta means something like "crazy in the head" and this name sums it up perfectly. When you know the crazy obsession with which Bibi Graetz pursues viticulture on the island of Giglio, you no longer have to wonder about the terrificand highly personalised results that Bibi has been bottling for years. This was preceded by several years of experimentation, research and a lot of hard work until the best of the over 100-year-old Ansonica vines in the rocky Serrone vineyard were finally identified. harvest is carried out exclusively by hand and each grape is meticulously selected according to quality and ripeness, which then finds its way to the wine cellar on the island. After destemming and gentle pressing under dry ice, the grapes are left to macerate for 48 hours at a low temperature before being transferred unfiltered to 225-litre barriques for fermentation, where the wine then matures for a further 12 months.

Traditionally vinified, its intense ruby red colour, the fruity aroma with spicy and balsamic notes and its gentle start on the palate, which builds furiously, are impressive. The high-class tannin structure rests between the soft components, so that this Brunello from the dream year 2019 simultaneously demonstrates elegance and strength without appearing too modern. SUPERIORE.DE

Grattamacco was the second winery in Bolgheri in 1982 and is still a firm favourite for great, terroir-driven wines with an independent character. The Rosso Superiore comes from high, coastal hillside vineyards with an excellent microclimate and matures for almost two years in French barriques after spontaneous fermentation. The cuvée deliberately does not follow the classic Bordeaux pattern: in addition to Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot, Sangiovese also characterises the wine as an indigenous soul – a sign of identity, not convention.

Maternigo means "mother's land" and is also the name of one of the Tedeschi family's vineyards. The vineyards cover around 33 hectares in two municipalities, Tregnago and Mezzane di Sotto. The new Cru-Amarone Riserva Maternigo is only produced in the best years and its grapes come exclusively from the Barila vineyard. This single vineyard was selected after careful zoning and characterisation of the soil, which is characterised by very low vigour and consequently produces grapes rich in structure.

In 2021, the Montalcino DOCG produced a vintage of rare clarity. Cooler nights, marked temperature fluctuations, a slow and steady ripening process lasting well into October – these are the conditions that allow Sangiovese Grosso to reveal what lies beyond the fruit: minerality, structure, and the subtle geological layers of a vineyard that has been producing wine since the Middle Ages. Pieve Santa Restituta vinifies according to this philosophy: each of the plots – Sugarille, Rennina, Santo Pietro, Castagno, Pian dei Cerri and Torrenieri in the north-east of the appellation – is harvested, fermented and macerated separately. Only after individual ageing in oak for 24 months is the final blend for the vintage determined through extensive blind tastings. Six months in concrete tanks before bottling.

Black as the night – is how Andrea Franchetti himself described this wine when it was first vinified separately in 2014. Campo di Camagi is the extreme pole in Trinoro's Cabernet Franc trilogy: where Magnacosta floats and Tenaglia stretches, Camagi condenses. One and a half hectares at an altitude of 550 metres, a flat, stony soil of crushed quartz and limestone – hardly any humus, hardly any depth. The vines, which are over 27 years old, fight for every centimetre, their roots penetrating the hard layer and completely filling the limited space. This struggle for space, this competition in the soil, manifests itself in the wine: concentration, density, heaviness. Twelve months in steel tanks, eight months in barriques, a further twelve months in concrete – a vinification that gives the wine time to organise its power without taming it.

Where the sun sets – right where the light last touches the steep hillside plot before sinking behind the contours of the Val d'Orcia – lies Campo di Tenaglia. This vineyard covers just eight-tenths of a hectare at an altitude of 500 metres, yet what grows here on rugged limestone and coarse, sandy soil possesses an intensity that stands out even amongst Trinoro's crus. The soil extends to a depth of over two metres; the roots of the Cabernet Franc vines, which are over 25 years old, reach down into the mineral, skeletal layers – and lend the wine its powerful character. Tenaglia embodies tension.

Strong ruby red. Opulent aromas of dark berries, mint, spices, forest floor and undergrowth. In the balanced, powerful drink very clear, juicy and tight. Spreads comfortably with notes of plum, raspberry compote and chocolate. This great Amarone captivates from the first sip - its long, silky finish leaves nothing to be desired. SUPERIORE.DE

Franchetti Rosso is Passopisciaro's flagship wine and a stunningly perfect wine. The grapes come from 1000-metre-high northern Etna vineyard sites, where the soils are ash and pumice. Franchetti is a ripe, exotic wine that envelops the palate with dark fruit. Refined tannins support the fruit, while an intense inner sweetness adds elegance and finesse. A thoroughly outstanding drop. SUPERIORE.DE

Le Macioche Riserva 2019 has the same slender and bright appearance as the Annata and the fine aromas of wild berries and cassis associated with Sangiovese. Racy and supple, it sweeps across the palate with a silky texture and shows tart wild berries and sour citrus fruit, all accompanied by lively acidity. The finish is long, with an earthy aftertaste. A very successful Riserva from a wonderful year, which has been interpreted very convincingly in this wine. SUPERIORE.DE

In 2011, Campo di Magnacosta was the first of three single-varietal Cabernet Franc crus created by Andrea Franchetti, who recognised that his vines – over 20 years old and with deep-reaching root systems – were capable of precisely reflecting the distinctive character of each individual terroir. This 1.5-hectare plot lies on the valley floor at an altitude of 400 metres, where an old stream disappeared beneath the surface and carved its way into the hillside – magna costa, the 'eating hillside' – leaving behind river sediments of gravel and silt. The vines were planted over two decades ago using cuttings from a vineyard in Pomerol, where Cabernet Franc has been grown for three centuries. This deep, well-drained soil gives the Magnacosta a character that differs fundamentally from its two siblings: the wine seems to burst with energy, is complex and relatively light in colour, yet deep and straightforward with an airy, fresh character.

Gigliola Giannetti was born on the Argiano wine estate, the daughter of an employee in the wine cellar. She grew up among barrels and vines, the smell of fermenting must was the scent of her childhood. At 19, she joined Franco Biondi Santi, and later Giulio Gambelli encouraged her to make wine herself. In 1993, the time had come: first parcel, first child – daughter Viola. Three years later came two more hectares and daughter Sofia. Today, three women stand together in the cellar and three generations of Montalcino in one line. Le Potazzine is one of the highest vineyards in the appellation: 450 to 530 metres, where the harvest begins up to three weeks later than in the valley. What used to be considered a disadvantage is now worth its weight in gold – the grapes ripen slowly, retain their acidity and develop finesse instead of mere vigour. Vinification is uncompromisingly traditional: spontaneous fermentation, 30 to 45 days of maceration, no temperature control. The wine then rests for 42 months in large Slavonian oak barrels – six months longer than is even required for a Riserva. So every Brunello from Le Potazzine is actually a Riserva. Why don't they call it that? Modesty, or perhaps quiet pride.

Le Lucére is not a wine for coincidences. The plot – almost 2.5 hectares, east-facing, Galestro and slate, vines that have been rooted in this soil for more than a quarter of a century – only becomes a single-vineyard bottling under certain conditions. 2018 was such a year, although the world of Brunello experts initially reacted cautiously. Wrongly so. The eastern exposure of San Filippo is a quiet privilege for cooler years: no blazing afternoon sunshine that burns the fruit and hardens the tannins. Instead – morning light, slow ripening, precision. The vines did not suffer. They concentrated. Caciorgna vinified in steel, fermented in concrete, put the wine first in barrique and tonneau, then in large 20 to 30 hectolitre barrels. More than three years of ageing, one year in the bottle. The wine needed the time.

Thomas Bär was dreaming out loud. He spoke openly about the fact that he regarded wines such as Solaia from Antinori or Le Pin from Pomerol as a benchmark – not out of arrogance, but out of conviction: That the Pietraforte soils of the Conca d'Oro at 450 to 500 metres in Panzano have the terroir to bear something extraordinary. The Balisca was his most personal answer to this question. 100% Cabernet Sauvignon, exclusively from the estate's own Panzano vineyards – a decision that is still unusual in the Chianti Classico zone. 1,200 bottles.

Chardonnay Vigna San Francesco is luxurious and rich as it moves along the lines of sophistication: ginger spice, crushed oyster shells, Italian buttercream and citrus fruits make up its seductive bouquet. On the palate, it conveys a sense of opulence but also harmony, combining a silky, medium-bodied texture with mineral fruits and pretty floral nuances. An interplay of sweet and sour that lasts until the final, while savoury green citrus fruits and a hint of Granny Smith apple slowly fade away. A wonderful Sicilian Chardonnay that perfectly combines the sophistication of the international grape variety with the charm of the Mediterranean climate. SUPERIORE.DE

This is more than a wine – it is the essence of a project born in 1999 with the vision of showing the world the finest that Bolgheri is capable of producing. From five selected vineyard sites between 80 and 220 metres above sea level – argentiera, Ginestre, Ventaglio, Porcarecce and Ceccosodo – a cuvée is created that has been a contemporary symbol of Italian winemaking since its debut vintage in 2003. Sourced from the best plots of the Tenuta, where sandy, calcareous and stony soils thrive between Mediterranean scrub and the salty breeze of the Tyrrhenian Sea, each grape embodies the unique terroir identity of this privileged location.