Amarone della Valpolicella

After the Second World War, Felice Dal Cero moved from Verona to Lugana di Sirmione on Lake Garda, where he began making wine. His son Pietro subsequently built up Ca’ dei Frati into one of Lombardy’s most prestigious estates – and, in 1969, was one of the co-signatories of the first Lugana DOC Disciplinare, the region’s first Denomination of Controlled Origin. When Pietro died in 2012, he left his children – Igino, Gian Franco and Anna Maria – not only a vineyard – but also a legacy. The siblings acquired further vineyards in Pian di Castagnè, in the eastern part of Valpolicella, near the Luxinum vineyard, on calcareous-marly soils with white and red flake-like rocks – —a terroir with a distinctly mineral character. It marked a return to their father’s roots. They therefore dedicated the wine they produce here to him: Pietro dal Cero – the father, to whom they gave back what he himself could never see again.

The Cantina Zýmē was built into a 15th century sandstone grotto – the tunnel where the mattoni were once quarried, which gave Verona's churches and villas their walls. Celestino Gaspari has dedicated his best wine to this place: La Mattonara. The label shows a vine leaf whose veins have been replaced by the lines of a fingerprint. The inscription reads: "massima espressione di identità." The maximum expression of the self. Speaking of wine – and of a person at the same time. La Mattonara is only created in exceptional years.

This is the crowning glory. The Riserva is only produced in historically exceptional years – and even then only from the very best barrels, those that Giuseppe "Bepi" Quintarelli personally selected and that his family continues in his tradition today. The 2015 marks such a moment of perfection. While the regular Amarone is released after seven years of barrel ageing, this Riserva spent over eight years in large Slavonian oak barrels before being bottled at the end of 2023. An additional year of patience for the absolute peak. The cuvée of 55% Corvina and Corvinone, 30% Rondinella and 15% Cabernet Sauvignon, Nebbiolo, Croatina and Sangiovese undergoes the legendary ritual: five months of appassimento until the end of January, deliberate promotion of botrytis, twenty days of maceration, 45 days of slow fermentation with wild yeasts. What follows is a maturity that combines monumentality with elegance. The 2015 presents itself as a warm, sunny vintage with 16.5 percent alcohol and three to four grams of residual sugar per Liters, which lends additional volume and depth to the final.

The winery, founded in Cerè di Negrar in the 1920s, developed its legendary style under Giuseppe "Bepi" Quintarelli from the 1950s onwards. To this day, there are hardly any directions to the estate, nor does it have its own website – as if the family wished to preserve an intimate, almost mystical atmosphere. "Tre Terre" was once a name that Giuseppe Quintarelli used in the 1980s for small batches of Recioto. With this Amarone, the name takes on a new meaning: a deliberate stylistic project by the family, an Amarone entirely different from what one would expect from this estate. Only 1,381 numbered bottles were produced – one of the rarest releases ever to come from Negrar.

Above the Quintarelli family home in Negrar, north of Verona, lies a purpose-built, ventilated loft. Here, on special racks, the carefully selected, flawless grapes dry for four months, whilst the water within them evaporates naturally and the aromas concentrate inexorably. It is a process that cannot be rushed – and one that the Quintarelli family only dares to undertake in exceptional vintages. Corvina and Corvinone form the backbone of the blend, accounting for a good half of the total, complemented by Rondinella and small proportions of other varieties, which vary slightly from vintage to vintage. Pressing takes place traditionally around Christmas time, and the wine ferments to a largely dry finish – unlike many sweeter interpretations of Amarone. It is then aged for seven years in large Slavonian oak barrels, in the cellars that the family dug directly into the hillside beneath their house, surrounded by their own vineyards.

At Quintarelli, the release of magnum bottles also follows a relentless logic: what matures in 1.5 Litersneeds more time. The 2017 Amarone in standard bottles came onto the market in 2024 – after seven years of barrel ageing. The magnum will only be released now, in 2025, one year later, as the wine develops more slowly, more deeply and with greater inner harmony in the large format. The 2017 marks one of those exceptional vintages that Giuseppe "Bepi" Quintarelli's heirs deemed worthy of becoming Amarone. The cuvée of 55% Corvina and Corvinone, 30% Rondinella and 15% Cabernet Sauvignon, Nebbiolo, Croatina and Sangiovese undergoes the legendary ritual: five months of appassimento until the end of January, deliberate promotion of botrytis, 20 days of maceration, 45 days of slow fermentation with wild yeasts, then seven years in large Slavonian oak barrels. This process takes on an additional dimension in the magnum.

A monument of wine! Brilliant dark ruby colour. Fresh, silky, elegant - and majestic. Blackberry jam, violets, bittersweet chocolate, plus crushed rock and minerality. An opulent wine with fabulously polished tannins and considerable ageing potential. SUPERIORE.DE

At the time, Marco Dal Forno initially held back his Amarone from the 2016 vintage – he released the 2017 vintage earlier because 2016 was not yet ready. At Dal Forno Romano, the wine determines the schedule. This is all the more true for the large formats: they are released three years after the 0.75-litre bottle – i.e. another three years later than an already later release. What this means for 2016 can be felt in the glass. Created under conditions that demand everything in the Val d'Illasi: three months of appassimento in the well-ventilated drying rooms of the Lodoletta, controlled fermentation in steel tanks with computer-controlled pump-overs, new barriques made from French and American wood, then the large format that requires hours of aeration – that needs hours of aeration before it begins to open.

In 1958, Bertani produced his first Amarone. The category was virtually non-existent, and "Amarone" is a new term for an age-old practice, yet most producers were still unsure whether this dry Appassimento wine had a future. Bertani, however, had no doubts at the time. Since then, the estate has been one of the leading voices behind a wine that is now considered one of the world's longest-lived reds. The key is patience. Corvina and Rondinella from the Tenuta Novare in Arbizzano di Negrar – vineyards dedicated exclusively to Amarone grapes – hand-harvested from the second week of September.

Giovanni Allegrini used to describe his vineyard in a way that no Oenologist would ever use: "The morning sun, dispelling the shadows of the night, awakens nature and gently caresses the grapes." He was proud of this slope – “The wild mountain” – because its eastern exposure ensures that the first light of day hits the grapes before the heat arrives. A consistent ripening, subtle and patient, like everything that aims to be truly good. Fieramonte is the estate’s highest and most demanding vineyard. Corvina Veronese provides the structure and red fruit. Corvinone the body. Rondinella the freshness. And Oseleta – one of the rarest, oldest Veronese grape varieties – almost forgotten, preserved by Allegrini – adds a dark, tannic complexity that no other wine from the appellation possesses to the same degree.

The Cantina Zýmē was built into a 15th century sandstone grotto – the tunnel where the mattoni were once quarried, which gave Verona's churches and villas their walls. Celestino Gaspari has dedicated his best wine to this place: La Mattonara. The label shows a vine leaf whose veins have been replaced by the lines of a fingerprint. The inscription reads: "massima espressione di identità." The maximum expression of the self. Speaking of wine – and of a person at the same time. La Mattonara is only created in exceptional years.

At the time, Marco Dal Forno initially held back his Amarone from the 2016 vintage – he released the 2017 vintage earlier because 2016 was not yet ready. At Dal Forno Romano, the wine determines the schedule. This is all the more true for the large formats: they are released three years after the 0.75-litre bottle – i.e. another three years later than an already later release. What this means for 2016 can be felt in the glass. Created under conditions that demand everything in the Val d'Illasi: three months of appassimento in the well-ventilated drying rooms of the Lodoletta, controlled fermentation in steel tanks with computer-controlled pump-overs, new barriques made from French and American wood, then the large format that requires hours of aeration – that needs hours of aeration before it begins to open.

A monument of wine! Brilliant dark ruby colour. Fresh, silky, elegant - and majestic. Blackberry jam, violets, bittersweet chocolate, plus crushed rock and minerality. An opulent wine with fabulously polished tannins and considerable ageing potential. SUPERIORE.DE

A monument of wine! Brilliant dark ruby colour. Fresh, silky, elegant - and majestic. Blackberry jam, violets, bittersweet chocolate, plus crushed rock and minerality. An opulent wine with fabulously polished tannins and considerable ageing potential. SUPERIORE.DE