Wines from Campania

The project aims to highlight the link between the vines, the wines and their territorial origins. The Mastroberardino family wants to recreate the style of winemaking of the indigenous grape varieties of Irpinia (Greco, Fiano and Aglianico) that took place between the late 1950s and early 1970s for the Taurasi and between 1970 and 1980 for the two white wines from Irpinia. It is the unmistakable style (the stilèma) of a family that has interpreted the natural heritage of its territory over generations and that today impressively emphasises the genuine character of the terroir, which by no means can be expressed through high concentration and intensity alone.

Serpico is Feudi di San Gregorio's flagship wine – a grand, monumental Aglianico made from vines over 150 years old in the legendary single vineyard "Dal Re" in Sorbo Serpico. The vineyard is situated on mineral soils of volcanic origin and is cultivated with great care by hand. 2016 was a year of moderate conditions, with a cool spring, a perfect ripening period in late summer and a late, selective harvest in October – ideal conditions for a wine of depth and balance.

Bright, powerful ruby colour, aromas of cherry, redcurrant, cocoa and tar. Juicy, spicy and bright, with firm acidity and taut tannins that give it definition and lift to the flavours. Very fresh and precise, persistent and smooth. It has outstanding potential. If you taste the decades-old wines from Mastroberardino (dating back to 1928), it becomes clear: these wines are monumental, immortal or at least for eternity. SUPERIORE.DE

The Taurasi 2016 from Pietracupa is a lesson in patience and precision – an Aglianico from high vineyards in Irpinia that only reveals its complex spectrum of flavours after years of ripening. The year 2016 brought ideal conditions: a moderate summer, sufficient rainfall and a long, dry autumn, which allowed a late harvest of healthy, perfectly ripe grapes. Deep dark ruby red in the glass with a garnet-red rim. The nose is multi-layered and rich in detail: black cherry, blackberry, ripe plum, dried violets, tobacco, dark chocolate, graphite and fine spice nuances. It is powerful on the palate, with a firm tannin structure, lively acidity and fruit that is carried by fresh energy despite its maturity. Ageing over many months in large wooden barrels gives the wine depth and harmonious integration of flavours. The finish is long, balsamic and characterised by mineral spice – a Taurasi with great nobility that combines the power of Aglianico with cool precision.

I Viaggiatori is a particularly finely woven Aglianico. Its grapes come from almost 200-year-old open-air vineyards with vines that are already over a hundred years old. The Paternopoli area, one of the highest areas of the Taurasi Valley, lies in the green heart of Irpina. The cool, continental climate here allows the Aglianico to ripen very slowly and thus retain its fresh and extremely elegant profile.

Luigi Moio, one of Italy's most renowned professors of oenology, founded Quintodecimo with a clear conviction: every wine should trace its origins back to the vineyard that produced it, in order to express the concept of terroir in its purest form. Whilst the estate's two Taurasi Riserva wines – Vigna Quintodecimo and Vigna Grande Cerzito – each come from a single plot, the Terra d'Eclano takes a different approach: it is crafted from five different vineyards owned by the estate, planted exclusively with Aglianico. The final blend is decided anew each year, depending on what the individual plots have to offer in that particular vintage. These five plots are deliberately varied: south-east, south-west and north-west-facing, some on clay soils, others on volcanic soils. The harvest takes place late, in the second to third ten-day period of October – the Aglianico requires patience to reach its full phenolic ripeness.

The grapes for the rare Naturalis Historia come from a 50-year-old vineyard located 400 metres above sea level with deep, sandy soils of volcanic origin in Mirabella. Deep, sparkling dark red colour. Redcurrant, sweet spices and aromas of dark plums and red cherries on the nose. Perfectly structured on the palate with well-balanced pressure and a full body that is never broad, but fresh, supple and very agile, leading to a harmonious, long-lasting final. An outstanding Aglianico that is already delicious to drink now, but will also age wonderfully. SUPERIORE.DE

Riccardo Dalisi worked with iron, copper and brass – with the humble materials of craftsmanship, to which he lent an archaic, almost sacred dignity through his sensitivity. He received the Compasso d’Oro twice: in 1981 for his coffee pot, and in 2014 for his social commitment. Feudi di San Gregorio owns two of his works. From this enduring connection, an idea emerged: the coloured glass mosaic ‘S.T.’ from 1990 – deep blue, vibrantly colourful, imbued with that effervescent energy that defines Dalisi’s signature style – adorns this bottle. No decorative label. A close dialogue between artist and wine.

There comes a moment in the history of every small winery when it stops having to prove itself – and begins to remember. Clelia Romano started out in Arianello di Lapio in 1994, with just a few hectares and one firm belief: that Fiano, grown on these volcanic calcareous marl soils, at altitudes of between 480 and 620 metres, in the Apennine hills of Irpinia, could be one of Italy's great white wines. The critics proved her right – swiftly and unequivocally. Today, she runs the estate together with her daughter Carmela. The wine, which bears the founder's name, is a testament to both generations.

Between 23 and 29 September 2024, JR roamed seven districts of Naples. Seven days, seven neighbourhoods, 606 portraits. The photographer and street artist JR – born in 1983, known for his monumental black-and-white installations in public spaces around the world – had chosen Italy for the first time for the eighth instalment of his Chronicles series. And with Naples, the city with the most complex, contradictory and yet most beautiful identity in the country. The question he posed: Chi sei, Napoli?

It all began with friendship and a spirit of experimentation: in the mid-1980s, when a group of wine lovers led by the photographer Silvia Imparato began their first experiments at the family vineyard in the Campania hinterland. One of these friends was Riccardo Cotarella, now one of Italy's most famous Oenologist. In 1991, the first bottle of a wine was produced that would soon go down in history as the "Sassicaia of the South" – a title bestowed upon it by Robert Parker in 1995 and one that still resonates today. The vineyard is situated in the Monti Picentini Regional Park near San Cipriano Picentino, just a few kilometres from Salerno. The five hectares of vineyards lie at an altitude of 100 metres in the shadow of a medieval castle, surrounded by oak, chestnut and citrus groves. The medium-textured soils with a high proportion of coarse material, the south-west-facing aspect and the shelter provided by the Picentini Mountains create a microclimate where Mediterranean mildness meets cool nights.

What begins with a seductive bouquet of delicate plums and a hint of mint gains volume and depth as grilled sage and rum-soaked blackcurrants mingle with sweet tobacco and allspice. Its texture is silky and fleshy, accompanied by a nervous acidity, while ripe black cherries and a hint of cranberry sauce create a sweet and sour tension on the palate. The concentration is astonishing, yet the energy remains incredibly high, even if the grippy tannins increase towards the end. Notes of sour citrus fruits, savoury herbs and tart wild berries linger incredibly long in the structured yet remarkably fresh final. Only around 3,000 bottles of this cru are produced and it is a real must-have for all Aglianico lovers! SUPERIORE.DE

Radici (the roots) is the epitome of Taurasi and has been a stylistic benchmark for Aglianico from Irpinia since its introduction in 1986. The grapes come from high-altitude, south to south-west-facing vineyards around Montemarano, whose clay and limestone soils of volcanic origin provide depth, structure and longevity. 2018 was a year in Irpinia with a cool spring, warm summer and a long, dry ripening period until the late harvest in November – a classic progression that favoured elegant tannins and precise fruit. Dense ruby red in the glass with a garnet-red rim. The nose reveals Aglianico in all its complexity: black cherry, plum, violet, sweet tobacco, liquorice, dark chocolate and a fine note of tar and graphite.

There are houses that ask themselves a single question. Not: What else can we do? But rather: How well can we do one thing? Galardi, at the foot of the extinct Roccamonfina volcano in northern Campania, has been producing exactly one wine since 1994. Just one. Year after year. The location is exceptional: south-west exposure at 500 metres, volcanic soil of silt, clay and rock, rich in mineral salts from two eras of volcanic activity – leucite lava and basalt, superimposed and weathered over hundreds of thousands of years. Chestnut woods, olive groves, underground springs that never dry up, even in dry years. The sea breezes from the Gulf of Gaeta provide natural climate control. 80% Aglianico, 20% Piedirosso – the legitimate natives of this region. Fermentation with skin contact for 20 days, pumping over twice daily, malolactic fermentation in steel, twelve months ageing in French barriques (40% new, 60% second and third passage), then a further twelve months in bottle.

Feudi di San Gregorio's DUBL project was born in 2004 out of an awareness of the great richness of the indigenous vines of the Irpinia region and the desire to open up new horizons for them: as Metodo Classico Spumante or by means of the famous Méthode Champenoise. A consultant was quickly found for this - none other than Anselme Selosse, who is known for his champagnes and his flair for the specialities of the vines and vineyards.

2022 was the year of the drought. Not the first, not the last – but one that told its own story at Roccamonfina. Week after week without rain, soils as yellow as straw under the sun. And yet: the springs in the volcanic rock never dried up. The soil that Galardi works holds water deep beneath the stones, invisible and inexhaustible. Allegra Selvaggi, who runs the estate today, described this vintage with Monet – not the motif, but the air around it. The multicoloured landscape despite the drought. The beauty that arises when a terroir is stronger than the weather.

Pàtrimo is no ordinary southern Italian. Vinified purely from Merlot, this exceptional wine comes from ancient, ungrafted vines that Feudi di San Gregorio once discovered at high altitudes in Irpinia – a viticultural rarity and the foundation of one of Italy's most iconic red wines. Deep dark ruby colour with a violet rim in the glass. The bouquet shows Merlot in an unusual, Mediterranean way: Black cherry, ripe plum, liquorice and rosemary, underpinned by mocha, tobacco leaf, vanilla and graphite. Structured and opulent on the palate, but never overloaded: velvety tannins, extract-rich fruit, dark spice and a hint of balsamic freshness that balances the richness. The long ageing in new French barriques lends the wine noblesse without putting it in uniform.

Almost a decade lies between the harvest of this wine and its release. This is no exception for a Taurasi Riserva, but rather the rule: 24 months in barriques, at least a further 30 months in the bottle before release, and then several more years in the cellar until the wine is truly ready. The 2017 vintage has had this time. It comes from the Piano di Montevergine, the most iconic vineyard of the Feudi di San Gregorio estate – an area where vines have always grown amongst hazelnut and olive trees, as has characterised Irpinia’s agriculture for generations. Taurasi, a DOCG since 1993, is regarded as Campania's most serious red wine appellation, grown on volcanic soils in the shadow of the Montevergine massif. One hundred% Aglianico, a grape variety that requires precisely this long ageing period to integrate its tannic structure.

The project aims to highlight the link between the vines, the wines and their territorial origins. The Mastroberardino family wants to recreate the style of winemaking of the indigenous grape varieties of Irpinia (Greco, Fiano and Aglianico) that took place between the late 1950s and early 1970s for the Taurasi and between 1970 and 1980 for the two white wines from Irpinia. It is the unmistakable style (the stilèma) of a family that has interpreted the natural heritage of its territory over generations and that today impressively emphasises the genuine character of the terroir, which by no means can be expressed through high concentration and intensity alone.