Wine

When Franco Pola bottled the first bottle of his Barbaresco Bordini in 1970, he not only wrote the beginning of a family story, but also symbolised the connection between man and vineyard that lasts for generations. The vineyard bears the same name as the street on which the winery stands – via Bordini 15 – and this geographical coincidence harbours a deeper truth: here, where the winery building looks directly onto the south-east-facing slope, family and terroir are inextricably interwoven. On sandy limestone/clay soil, 280 metres above sea level, Nebbiolo vines 50 to 60 years old take root – one hectare of which is even over 70 years old and ungrafted, a living link to the time when Franco's father Secondo still ran the farm as a farm.

With Cifra, star oenologist Luca D'Attoma has vinified a wonderfully agile and elegant Cabernet Franc. Dark ruby purple in colour, with a deep aroma and notes of blackberries and liquorice. Rich fruit on the palate with firm tannins and a mineral final. A delight from the Tuscan coast from biodynamic (Demeter) cultivation. SUPERIORE.DE

Franz and Bernadette Pratzner planted their first Riesling grapes more than 30 years ago. The small parcel yields just 1,500 bottles per year. The primary rock soil, the dry warmth during the day and the cool nights provide excellent conditions for the Vinschgau Riesling to thrive on the steep south-facing slopes between 550 and 900 metres.

Querciabella's Riserva, with an annual production of 10,000 bottles, is a selection of the best lots. It blends fruit from Greve, where the vineyards lie between 350 and 550 metres above sea level, with grapes from the stony high altitudes of Radda and the chalky soils of Gaiole. Tantalising aromas of spring flowers, cranberries and potting soil are accompanied by vanilla and smoke. On the palate, it is polished and pure, with a delicious, tangy acidity and sinewy tannins. As every year, one of the most refined wines of the appellation. SUPERIORE.DE

This smooth and exceptionally polished Valtellina Superiore comes from Sassella, one of the most famous villages in the Valtellina appellation on the north bank of the River Adda. Bright ruby red in colour. Camphor, wild roses, wild berries and hints of graphite and vanilla are the main characters in this fragrant red wine. Straightforward and elegantly structured, it reveals red cherry, pomegranate and liquorice on the palate, accompanied by present but fine tannins. The lively acidity provides the necessary drive, including further ageing potential. SUPERIORE.DE

Pale copper colour with amber and salmon hues, the result of prolonged maceration on the skins of the Pinot Grigio grapes (Ramato). Straightforward, precise nose of white stone fruit, sweet spices and vanilla. Clearly structured and forward on the palate with tart berry fruit, light cherries, wild mint and a hint of bitter almond. A salty nuance on the finish, light-footed, almost weightless and very animating. SUPERIORE.DE

Livio Felluga's new cru wines are the result of massalselection. For this purpose, selected vines are reproduced in particularly favourable locations in order to renew vineyards with particularly high-quality vines and to further improve the quality of individual varietal wines.

Mason. This is what Manincor calls the Mazzon vineyard to avoid confusion with the larger vineyard of the same name above Neumarkt. Four hectares of Pinot Nero are rooted here on a south-facing high plateau between 400 and 450 metres above sea level, spoilt by the sun and constantly exposed to the wind. This breeze is crucial: the narrow-berried Pinot grapes tend to store moisture between the berries – without air circulation, there is a risk of rot. The soil is sandy loam, interspersed with a variety of rocks: dolomite, porphyry, gneiss and granite, from particles the size of a grain of rice to stones the size of a fist. Each parcel is vinified separately. Mash fermentation takes place spontaneously in open wooden vats with wild yeasts. Maceration lasts two weeks and the cap is gently punched down once a day. The 16-month maturation in barriques (20% new wood) on the fine lees refines the flavours and structure without overpowering the fruit.

Named after Cassian, the son of Count Michael Goëss-Enzenberg, who was born in 1996, the same year that Manincor opened its own winery. A name that stands for new beginnings, for the future, for the next generation. The cuvée combines six international grape varieties from the estate's best red wine sites: Manincor, Seehof and Panholzerhof, between 250 and 280 metres above sea level. Exposed to the south-east with a view of the lake, the vines are rooted in strong sandy loam soils interspersed with limestone gravel and glacial rock deposits – these plots are among the warmest sites in South Tyrol. Each grape variety is vinified separately. Mash fermentation takes place spontaneously in wooden vats with wild yeasts. Maceration lasts between 10 and 20 days – depending on the variety and the desired tannin structure. Finesse and elegance are the top priorities, not strength for strength's sake. The 16-month maturation in barriques (one third new wood) refines the structure without dominating the fruit. Blending only takes place shortly before bottling – the art of composition, in which character and individuality merge with solemnity and elegance.

The grapes for this elegant Nebbiolo come from the Ravera di Monforte vineyard, a small, calcareous and clayey plot on the south-eastern slope above the village of Monforte d'Alba. It shares its name with the famous Novello cru, but is independent and characterised by stony soils that give the roots depth and minerality. Bright garnet red with a ruby-coloured core. The bouquet opens with clear, youthful fruit: sour cherry, redcurrant and a hint of raspberry, underpinned by violets, dried herbs and a subtle hint of cinnamon. On the palate, the wine is taut and fresh, with precise acidity, ripe tannins and an animating, slightly savoury length. An authentic Nebbiolo from the Langhe that clearly shows its origin and signature in the glass. SUPERIORE.DE

Montalcino is a hill. To be more precise: a single large cone of limestone, marl, slate and sand that rises above the Val d'Orcia – exposed to the north, south-east and south-west, characterised by three completely different climates. Most of the producers in the appellation have access to one of these slopes. Val di Suga has all three. Vigna del Lago in the north-west, Poggio al Granchio in the south-east, Vigna Spuntali in the south-west. Three soils, three microclimates, three characters – and a single winery that unites them all under one roof. The basic Brunello is the result of this unique position: a cuvée from all three sites that does not aim for simplification, but for synthesis. Fermentation takes eight to twelve days at a controlled temperature, with maceration lasting a further two to three weeks. Maturation in traditional 50-hectolitre Slavonian oak barrels for 24 months, followed by six months in concrete and then the bottle. The 2021 vintage brought a late frost in April – the harvest was reduced, the quality concentrated. A dry summer without extreme heat, a long, even autumn. The Consorzio and a jury of eight Masters of Wine agreed on three words to characterise the vintage: fragrant, precise, vertical.

Straw yellow with greenish reflections. An exciting bouquet of white flowers, roses and a hint of acacia honey. Spicy and taut on the palate, with a very aristocratic perlage, flavours of bread crust, yeast and a hint of liquorice. One of the few outstanding Metodo Classico from the Veneto made from 100% Pinot Nero. Very great class! SUPERIORE.DE

When French noble vines were planted in the Tuscan soil of Felsina's Podere Molinuzzo in 1998, a visionary experiment of extraordinary boldness began. Pinot Nero in Tuscany? A seemingly impossible endeavour in a region dominated by Sangiovese. But Giuseppe Mazzocolin and Franco Bernabei, who had already initiated the Sangiovese revolution with the legendary Fontalloro, once again dared to do the impossible: to cultivate the Burgundian king grape variety under the Tuscan sun. The vineyard, which covers just 2.5 hectares, is strategically located on the border between Felsina and Castello di Farnetella, on soils of sand and clay with a significant stony and calcareous component. This geological peculiarity, combined with the cooler microzone of Podere Molinuzzo, creates ideal conditions for a grape variety that elsewhere in Italy only thrives in the foothills of the Alps.

When Luciano and Luca Sandrone first set eyes on the concave hill of Valmaggiore in the 1990s, it was love at first sight. It wasn't just history that moved them – in the 19th century, the Nebbiolo grapes from this vineyard dictated the price for the entire area – but above all the unique combination of sandy soils and the microclimate of this natural amphitheatre. In Vezza d'Alba, on the left bank of the Tanaro in the Roero, lies this south-facing single vineyard with extremely steep slopes, where soft sandy soils give the Nebbiolo the finesse and elegance for which the Roero region is famous.

Bright ruby colour with a purple shimmer. The bouquet is fresh and youthful: red cherries, crisp plums, a hint of cranberry and subtle floral nuances. Straightforward on the palate, with clear fruit, present, animating acidity and a fine spicy finish. Thanks to its maturation in stainless steel, it is particularly appealing to drink and shows the unadorned, fruit-emphasised character of the grape variety. A juicy and serious Barbera that clearly expresses its origins and is great fun even when young. SUPERIORE.DE

In a privileged plot south of the legendary Bricco Boschis lies the Cavallottos' insider tip: Vigna Cuculo. Here, where normally only Nebbiolo should grow, the brothers Giuseppe and Alfio have achieved an oenological miracle – a Barbera cru that combines its Piedmontese soul with the aristocratic elegance of its great Barolo neighbours. The name "Cuculo" – the cuckoo – could not be more poetic for this wine, which asserts itself like a stranger in royal territory while developing its very own identity. The plot benefits from the unique microclimate of Bricco Boschis, that geological treasure where different soils meet in a symphony of limestone, marl and sand layers. This soil complexity gives the Barbera grape a minerality and structure that goes far beyond what is normally expected from this grape variety. West-south-west exposure and the chalky-clayey soils create ideal conditions for a wine of exceptional depth.

Rubatsch is a vineyard in Terlan at 250 metres, on a south-western slope with sandy soil on weathered porphyry rock. Two thirds of the Lagrein vines for this wine are rooted here, while the remaining third comes from the Seehof vineyard in Caldaro, where the soil is loamier and heavier. Two soils, two characters, one indigenous grape variety that belongs to South Tyrol like the Dolomites belong to the horizon.

Just like the famous I Sistri, the "Collezione Privata" is a single-varietal Chardonnay. Since the early 1980s, the former LitersGiovanni Mazzocolin had sourced some of his Chardonnay vines from Burgundy and so a micro-location was cultivated here until the 2000s, from whose grapes the carefully vinified "I Sistri Collezione Privata" originates. Bright, intense straw yellow colour with golden reflections. Delicately reductive nose of spices, peach and exotic fruits with restrained hints of vanilla. Creamy and full-bodied on the palate, the ideally balanced acidity gives it structure and the fresh juice combined with a mineral-salty note carries this complex white wine into an exciting and spicy finish of quince and orange. The clearly recognisable Burgundian style of this great Chardonnay will continue to develop as it matures in the bottle, not least due to the subtle barrique ageing. Very attractive at an even more attractive price! SUPERIORE.DE

There are vintages that make history – and 2023 will be one such milestone for Valdicava. In a decision that prioritises pure perfection over commercial success, Vincenzo Abbruzzese made a choice that only a true purist can make: Not a single drop of the 2023 vintage will leave the estate as Brunello di Montalcino. Instead, the entire precious harvest from the legendary Montosoli vineyards will be channelled into a Rosso di Montalcino of historic significance. What would normally be considered "declassification" becomes a deliberate art form here. All the grapes from the famous vineyards, those that would normally be reserved for the celebrated Brunello and even the mythical Madonna del Piano Riserva, come together to create a Rosso that pushes the boundaries of its category.

Siccagno is Arianna Occhipinti's personal monologue about Nero d'Avola – not a loud one, but a concentrated, quiet and deep-breathing one. The name comes from the Sicilian term for dry farming (sicco) and aptly describes the origin of this wine: deep-rooted vines in calcareous soils near Vittoria, not irrigated, consciously entrusted to nature. 2021 was a year with clear light, good aeration and a vegetative cycle without extreme heat or stress – perfect conditions for a subtly structured vintage. The grapes are harvested by hand, fermented spontaneously with natural yeasts and macerated on the skins for around 30 days. The wine is matured for 24 months in large Slavonian oak barrels – no haste, no fining, no filtering. Just patience and trust in what the soil tells us.