Wine

A wonderful and completely "unplanned" wine: Paolo actually wanted to plant more Moscato vines in this small 1.5-hectare, sustainably cultivated vineyard when he recognised the quality of the Barbera grapes ripening there in 2016. Without further ado, he decided to vinify a Barbera, which he then aptly named Per Sbaglio - which means "by mistake". We congratulate him on this decision, as just 3,000 bottles are released onto the market every year.

Timorasso is not mainstream, but rather a speciality of Piedmont. With its Derthona, Vite Colte presents a white wine that you rediscover and then prefer to drink again immediately – because it has a different appearance and is captivatingly clear. It has a bright straw yellow colour in the glass, almost fading into gold. Notes of acacia blossom, hawthorn, ripe peach and a hint of honey emerge on the nose – plus a cool shimmer of flint and minerality, which makes everything a little more exciting. On the palate, structure meets juiciness: full-bodied, yet light on the palate thanks to present, fine acidity. There is also a subtle nutty undertone that adds fine depth without becoming dominant. The finish is long, elegant and clears the palate with chalky freshness. SUPERIORE.DE

A real rarity: Ebnerhof is home to the southernmost Grüner-Veltliner vineyards in South Tyrol. What is mainstream in Austria is exclusive in the Isarco Valley – the grape variety has felt at home here for generations, but only a few winegrowers dare to try their hand at it. The Unterthiner family cultivates this Austrian legend on mineral-rich, gravelly soils at an altitude of 500 to 550 metres, where the special soil conditions give the wine its unmistakable signature. After gentle processing, the must ferments at a controlled temperature in stainless steel tanks, after which the wine matures on the fine lees – partly in small wooden barrels –which gives it additional depth.

Calliano, Basso Monferrato. Three hundred metres above the gentle hills of Monferrato lies the single vineyard that gives this wine its name – and its character. Calcareous, clayey soils with veins of sand, an assemblage that is not a matter of course in Piedmont: 60% Barbera, 40% Syrah. Two grape varieties that could hardly be more different – one indigenous and acidic, the other a Rhône traveller with tannin structure and spice. Prunotto ferments the two separately, only allowing them to grow together after malolactic fermentation.

The Trebbiano and Malvasia Bianca grapes for this exceptional white wine come from the Casanova dell'Aia vineyard in Radda in Chianti, the first 0.2-hectare, calcareous and clayey plot that the family bought and planted in the 1980s and then renewed in 2014. It matures on the fine lees mostly in terracotta amphorae and only a small part remains in stainless steel tanks. Total production per vintage: 2,500 bottles.

The name evokes the fields of ancient cereals that once covered the hills of Spoltore before vines took root here. Since 2017, this Trebbiano has borne the name "Oro" on its label – a claim it certainly lives up to. To produce it, the Di Properzio brothers select just three hectares of old vines growing on compact limestone-loam soils near the coast. What sets Spelt Oro apart from conventional Trebbiano is the radical patience involved: After fermentation, the wine rests for four months sur lie in stainless-steel tanks, which are deliberately located outside the winery – exposed to natural temperature fluctuations. It then spends a further year in concrete. It is bottled after fifteen months, unfiltered, unclarified and without any stabilisation.

Capalbio – this is the southernmost end of the Tuscan coast, where the Maremma is wilder and more unspoilt than anywhere else, with views of Monte Argentario and the Burano lagoon. This is where Monteverro is located: a biodynamically farmed estate that Georg and Barbara Weber awoke from its slumber around two decades ago. Vermentino is the white soul of this place – fresh, fruity, light-hearted, with the fine minerality of clay and limestone soil. 100% Vermentino, harvested by hand from 5,555 vines per hectare with a north-south orientation. Whole-cluster pressing, no malolactic fermentation – because this is about freshness, not fullness. Six months on the fine lees in stainless steel tanks. The result is exactly what Monteverro formulates as its goal: "An expression of Italy's joie de vivre."

Medium golden yellow. A spicy, intense nose with aromas of roses, lychee and lily blossoms. On the palate, it is full-bodied and round with a rich, creamy texture. Spicy and mineral notes are complemented by fresh acidity, alongside hints of apricot and honeydew melon. Gewürztraminer Stoass finishes harmoniously with a delicately fruity and smooth finish. SUPERIORE.DE

Diego and Alberto Cusumano had a dream that took many years to realise. The family, the third generation of one of Sicily's most important wine houses, searched for years for the right piece of Etna – and found it in Castiglione di Sicilia in 2013. On the northern slope of the volcano, in districts such as Verzella, Feudo di Mezzo, Guardiola and Solicchiata, at an altitude of 800 metres, in black, mineral-rich lava soils. Alta Mora – high and black – is not just a name. It is a description of the place. 100% Nerello Mascalese, hand-picked in October. Mash fermentation lasts twelve days in steel, followed by six months in large 25 hectolitre oak barrels. An accessible entry into the Alta Mora portfolio – and a clear statement: the Nerello Mascalese at these altitudes needs no staging.

Zenato’s world-famous Valpolicella Superiore, produced using the Ripasso method, is a rich wine offering excellent value. It is peppery, with earthy and gravelly notes that give way to black cherries and savoury herbs. It reveals deep, silky textures balanced by lively acidity, whilst ripe red and black fruits resonate beneath a hint of lavender. Zenato’s Ripassa is concentrated and intense, yet conveys elegance, leaving a fresh note of violet sweets on the palate that lingers for a long time. SUPERIORE.DE

Vertigo – vertigo from the heights. Anyone who has ever stood on Livio Felluga’s terrace in Rosazzo will understand the name immediately: the view sweeps over the vineyards to the Karst, as far as Istria, to the walls of ancient Aquileia and far out into the Adriatic Sea. A view that throws you off balance for a moment. And a red wine that does the same. Livio Felluga has blended Schiopettino, the wild, peppery native variety of Friuli, with Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon – three very different characters on the same flysch soil of Eocene origin, the characteristic alternation of marl and sandstone of the Rosazzo hills. Gentle destemming, fermentation with skin contact in stainless steel tanks, ageing in steel and small French oak barrels, followed by bottle ageing.

The name Da-Di is derived from the Chinese and means earth/soil. It not only emphasises the organic cultivation of the vines, but also the subsequent ageing in 13 Tuscan terracotta amphorae. The result is a fascinatingly fresh wine that is a joy to drink from the very first sip.

Lake Garda is white wine territory – lugana, Custoza and Soave dominate the perception. Zenato's Cabernet from the single vineyard Santa Cristina proves that serious red wines can also be produced here. The cuvée of 85% Cabernet Sauvignon and 15% Cabernet Franc combines Bordeaux noblesse with the mild microclimate of the lake. Three weeks of maceration in stainless steel with frequent pumping over extracts colour and structure. The wine then matures for 15–18 months in new and used French oak barriques before being left to rest for a further month in the bottle.

"This wine was born as a challenge. In 2004, when we started making it, ageing it in steel was against the general trend of ageing complex Soave wines in barrique. Today, we are glad that we took this risk." Graziano Prà

Nebbiolo beyond Barolo: Tovasacco comes from the estate's own vineyards around Canale, Priocca and Alba, where the sandy soils of the Roero give the great Piedmontese wine its very own character – less austere, more accessible, but by no means superficial. Manual harvesting leads to a complex selection process: First, the grapes are sorted on a vibrating table and cooled with carbonic acid snow, followed by a second selection of the individual berries after destemming. Mash fermentation takes place over 20 days with délestage and submerged cap, followed by maturation in oak barrels for twelve months.

Straw yellow in colour with a fine, persistent perlage. The nose is a fragrant mix of orange blossom, white peach and lime zest, accompanied by sage and a hint of blossom honey. Delicately sparkling and crystal clear on the palate: juicy stone fruit, fine sweetness and a lively, citric acidity are perfectly balanced. The ageing in pressurised tanks preserves the aromatic purity and ensures lightness and flow. Long, fragrant finish with a delicate minerality – an elegant, typical Moscato d'Asti with a high charm factor. SUPERIORE.DE

The Aleatico grape variety is of Greek origin and is mainly used in Tuscany and central Italy for the production of dessert wines. The grapes were harvested late and processed gently to guarantee maximum flavour concentration and typical sweet wine charm. The wine was matured in stainless steel tanks to preserve freshness and pure fruit. In the glass, the wine has a dense ruby colour with a light violet hue. On the nose, it seduces with candied raspberry, blackcurrant, a delicate rose petal fragrance, sweet fig and a hint of dark chocolate. Soft and supple on the palate, with elegant sweetness and a rich mouthfeel. The lively acidity balances the sweetness perfectly, the finish is long, inviting and pleasantly savoury. An intense, charming wine for conscious moments of pleasure – on its own, with cheese variations or with dark chocolate. Total production: 2,000 bottles. SUPERIORE.DE

A modern Maremma-Rosso with a maritime influence: "Tirrenico" combines Cabernet Sauvignon with Merlot, Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot – all internationally influenced grape varieties that find their very own expression here on the Tuscan coast. Despite the warm vintage, the 2022 is balanced and clearly structured. Dark ruby in the glass with violet reflections. Ripe blackcurrant, plum, some graphite, herbal spice and a hint of eucalyptus on the nose. Juicy on the palate, with present, ripe fruit, fine-grained tannins and a fresh, mineral finish. The ageing in barriques adds depth without dominating. A powerful yet elegant red with a Tuscan soul and international stature. SUPERIORE.DE

Rocca Rubia is an archetypal Carignano del Sulcis: powerful, Mediterranean and, at the same time, astonishingly elegant. The grapes come from old vines, some of which are ungrafted, growing in the sandy, coastal vineyards of the lower Sulcis region in south-western Sardinia. Fermentation took place under temperature control in stainless steel tanks, followed by ageing for around 10 months in French oak barriques, resulting in a successful balance between oak influence and fruit expression.

Riesling (Riesing renano, not Riesling italico) is regarded as the soul of Northern Europe – moselle, Rhine, Alsace. The fact that it finds a completely unique voice in the hills of Trentino is down to two men who started out in Faedo in 1975, and two soils that could hardly be more different. In Cembra, Maso Besleri, Località Val Bona, the vines grow on volcanic porphyry – —dark, grainy, rich in rounded pebbles. The slopes have a gradient of up to 50 per cent: heroic in every respect, Guyot training, 6,000 vines per hectare. In Faedo, Località Palai, the soil is the exact opposite: limestone and dolomite of marine origin, sedimentary, light in colour and providing structure.

700 metres. That is the altitude at which one of Pojer e Sandri’s two Pinot Noir vineyards is situated – in Palai, south-facing, on local limestone soil, swept by the Ora del Garda. For Pinot Nero in Trentino, this is exceptionally high. Long, cool nights, marked temperature fluctuations, and a slow ripening process that gives the grape variety exactly the time it needs to develop elegance and freshness. The second vineyard is in Faedo itself, in Località Rocol, at 300 metres – lower, warmer, and more full-bodied. Together, these two sites produce a Pinot Nero that fully embodies Faedo. Since 2002, the winery has been using a proprietary, patented process: Iperriduzione – the entire processing of the grapes takes place without oxygen, exclusively in stainless steel tanks. No external intervention – the grape’s natural protective compounds do the work. Fresh, clear, consistent.

Pliny the Elder wrote about it. Virgil, Martial and Horace raised it in verse. The Falernian was the wine of ancient Rome – produced in the Ager Falernum, that fertile triangle between Monte Massico, the river Savone and the slopes of the extinct Roccamonfina volcano. No other wine-growing region in Italy can look back on such a clearly documented wine-growing history. Lawyer Francesco Paolo Avallone – fascinated by the old texts – searched for the original grape varieties in the 1960s. He found them: a few Falanghina biotipo Falerna vines, survivors of the phylloxera devastation of the 19th century, direct descendants of the ancient cultivated vines. What he started, his children and grandchildren continue. The winery has carried the Ager Falernum in its name ever since.

Here is one of the finest expressions of the white Carricante grape variety, aged on the fine lees for six months. Alta Mora Bianco comes from vineyards on the northern slopes of Mount Etna, where Carricante vines thrive at altitudes of 600 to 900 metres – directly on volcanic rock rich in minerals and ash. The cool altitude, combined with intense sunshine and significant day-night temperature variations, imbues this wine with an unmistakable freshness, structure and salty tension. The wine is aged exclusively in stainless steel to ensure that the purity of the grape variety and the terroir is conveyed unadulterated in the glass.