Vinum

There are vintages that you can already feel in the vineyard. 2021 was one of them: April frosts reduced the harvest volumes by up to a third; what remained ripened slowly and completely under a long, hot, dry summer. No rain in September, no rush during the harvest – a luxury that this vintage afforded and that is rare in Montalcino. For Giancarlo Pacenti and his northern vineyards of Pelagrilli, this meant ideal conditions for a Brunello of classic elegance.

The annual production of this boutique winery on Etna is just 9,000 bottles. At an altitude of 950 metres above sea level, the one and a half hectares of vines are divided into eight tiny plots and have been gradually bought up by the well-known Oenologist. The area is planted with Nerello Mascalese bush vines, which have been spared the phylloxera phylloxera and make their way through the lava-covered terraces.

Produced in small quantities, Vallocchio clearly stands out from pure Brunello di Montalcino. Darker, deeper and more mystical, it shows notes of ripe blackberries and plums, complemented by exotic brown spices and a hint of lemon confit. Its texture is like velvet stretching across the palate, black-fruited and ripe, underpinned by minerals and cooling herbal notes. It is youthfully monolithic and dense, revealing its austere tannin core only towards the end, where notes of black tea, liquorice and a hint of cocoa emerge. SUPERIORE.DE

A fruity and graceful Barbaresco. The loamy soils give it a firm backbone and strong tannins.

Anyone who knows the south-east of Montalcino knows: no sea breezes, no proximity to the lake, no soft light. Monte Amiata reigns supreme here – the extinct volcano in the background, which breaks the winds, intensifies the temperature fluctuations between day and night and gives the soil its unmistakable character: Galestro slate, gritty, barren, rich in minerals. Oaks and holm oaks stand between the vines, where elsewhere cypresses or olive trees characterise the landscape. Poggio al Granchio – the "crab hill" – lies at 380 to 450 metres, south-east exposure, the historical heart of the appellation. Val di Suga acquired this vineyard in 1999, thus completing a triangle that no other producer in Montalcino possesses. The grapes are harvested by hand in crates, in micro-zones, and the optical selection is uncompromising. In the cellar: fermentation for ten to fourteen days, followed by intensive post-fermentation maceration at 30 degrees for twenty to twenty-five days – this is where extract, density and colour are created. 2021 was particularly favourable for the Poggio al Granchio. The influence of Monte Amiata mitigated the dryness of the summer, while the long autumn ensured even ripeness.

Wonderful, finesse-rich selection of the estate's best Sangiovese grapes. The nose is impressive with its richness: red fruits, dark flowers, fine tar and vegetal notes, traces of blackberry jam. Full-bodied on the palate with subtle extract sweetness, powerful and juicy at the same time, the well-proportioned tannins come into play very well and glide this red elegantly into a long final. SUPERIORE.DE

Concerto was born in 1981, a time of dynamic change in Italian viticulture. The hitherto untapped potential was recognised and experiments were carried out with new grape varieties and, for the first time, successfully with international grape varieties. It was Marchesa Carla Mazzei who spontaneously chose the name Concerto in 1981 after the first tasting of just fifteen barriques – a symphony had taken place in her glass. As one of the first ten Super Tuscans, this wine made history and revolutionised the Tuscan understanding of wine. From the Scassi vineyard in the western part of Fonterutoli, surrounded by oak forests at an altitude of 350 metres, the Sangiovese comes from mass selections from an experimental vineyard in the 1930s. And the small portion of Cabernet Sauvignon has developed a completely independent character here over four decades, far removed from the international character it develops elsewhere. The 18-month maturation in French barriques then gives the wine its noble structure without overshadowing its original elegance.

Alongside Fragore, Etna-Cru Donnafugata, named after the Contrada Marchesa vineyard of the same name, is Donnafugata's second top wine from the volcano. Its label is adorned with a volcano goddess decorated with flowers and fruit, next to which is the medieval village of Castiglione di Sicilia. The Nerello vines grow on a lava soil rich in minerals, and the location to the north of the volcano ensures temperate summers with strong temperature fluctuations between day and night.

40 years Brunello di Montalcino by Casanova di Neri: Intense bouquet of sour cherry with nuances of chocolate, spices, liquorice and herbs. Energetic and highly vital on the palate. Wonderfully layered and seamlessly integrated dark fruit flavours open up with each sip, paired with a subtle vein of salt. Its tannins are like velvet and silk, the long, sweeping finish reveals that Sangiovese excellence we love so much at Casanova di Neri! SUPERIORE.DE

A lake next to the vineyard – this is not a metaphor, this is geography. Vigna del Lago is located in the north-west of Montalcino, at 280 metres above sea level, and the small lake that gives the vineyard its name softens the otherwise continental climate of this exposure: harsh winters, very hot summers, pronounced day-night temperature fluctuations. The soil is clay – heavy, watery and cool. A combination that forces the Sangiovese Grosso to take deep root, mature slowly and develop elegance rather than mass. The vine material is the densest in the entire Val di Suga portfolio: 7,500 vines per hectare – a figure reminiscent of the planting densities in Burgundy. Double spur cordon, careful foliage management, yield reduction through thinning out. Hand-picking into crates takes place exclusively in the early hours of the morning. In the cellar: fermentation for eight to twelve days, maceration for a further two to three weeks. Maturation in 40-hectolitre Slavonian oak barrels for 24 months, then concrete, then bottle. No barrique, no wood pressure – pure site. 2021 was a lucky vintage for Vigna del Lago. The late frost in April reduced the harvest – and concentrated the best. No extreme summer, no stress.

Historically, the vineyards of Castello di Fonterutoli are located in the areas of three neighbouring municipalities of Chianti Classico: Castellina in Chianti, Castelnuovo Berardenga and Radda in Chianti. With the 2017 vintage, the Mazzei family vinified all three large vineyards separately as Chianti Classico Gran Selezione for the first time in order to recognise the diversity of the terroir: Castello di Fonterutoli, Vicoregio 36 and Badiòla.

It was Domizio Cavazza, director of the Royal School of Viticulture in Alba, who gave Barbaresco its name and its claim to fame in 1894. A wine that was to stand up to the more powerful Barolo – finer, accessible earlier, but no less complex. More than a century later, the roles are clearly divided: Barbaresco stands for the elegant side of Nebbiolo, for finesse instead of power, for fragrance instead of darkness. Prunotto has found his answer to this appellation in a single vineyard: Bric Turot. Five hectares at around 200 metres, with an exposure from south-west to south-east, which gives the hill the shape of a natural amphitheatre. The soil – tortonian limestone and marl with veins of sand, rich in magnesium and manganese – is the same foundation on which Gajas Sorì Tildin stands just a few metres away. Not bad terrain then.

Historically, the vineyards of Castello di Fonterutoli are located in the areas of three neighbouring municipalities of Chianti Classico: Castellina in Chianti, Castelnuovo Berardenga and Radda in Chianti. With the 2017 vintage, the Mazzei family vinified all three large vineyards separately as Chianti Classico Gran Selezione for the first time in order to recognise the diversity of the terroir: Castello di Fonterutoli, Vicoregio 36 and Badiòla.

From the vineyards near the historic villa, where the woods reach the sea, comes a visionary interpretation of Vermentino – a wine that allows the inexhaustible possibilities of this ancient grape variety to shine in a completely new light. Scenario embodies five years of research at Tenuta Argentiera, a meticulous study of the evolutionary potential of Vermentino that culminated in various vinification and ageing experiments between 2020 and 2022. The grapes for this exceptional Bolgheri Bianco ripen high up at 260 metres above sea level, in small plots close to the protective forests where maritime breezes meet centuries-old pine trees. Only 8,000 bottles are produced annually from this carefully curated Vermentino in its purest form – a precious witness to that unique microclimate between the sea and the Mediterranean scrub.

Historically, the vineyards of Castello di Fonterutoli are located in the areas of three neighbouring municipalities of Chianti Classico: Castellina in Chianti, Castelnuovo Berardenga and Radda in Chianti. With the 2017 vintage, the Mazzei family vinified all three large vineyards separately as Chianti Classico Gran Selezione for the first time in order to recognise the diversity of the terroir: Castello di Fonterutoli, Vicoregio 36 and Badiòla.

Etna is one of Italy's most fascinating wine regions and Andrea Franchetti is probably the most fanatical producer in this area. Added to this are eighty-year-old indigenous Nerello Mascalese vines. The single vineyard Contrada Porcaria has a thoroughly masculine personality. Darkly scented with ripe fruit and menthol, the palate is predominantly spice and mineral with many other facets. The course and the final are rich, dense and very convincing. SUPERIORE.DE

Guidalberto bears the name of a man who shaped the Bolgheri landscape forever in the early 19th century: Guidalberto della Gherardesca, the visionary agricultural pioneer who created the famous cypress avenue – the Viale dei Cipressi – was created. What was initially intended as a practical demarcation between different areas of cultivation became the iconic silhouette of an entire region. 2023 marks a turning point for this exceptional wine. For the first time, Tenuta San Guido is positioning its Guidalberto separately from the legendary Sassicaia – a deliberate move to demonstrate that this is not a "second wine", but an independent interpretation of the Bolgheri terroir. As Priscilla Incisa della Rocchetta puts it: "You can't compare them. They are completely different worlds." The 2023 vintage is a synthesis of 55 per cent Cabernet Sauvignon and 45 per cent Merlot. While the Cabernet Sauvignon provides structure and depth, the Merlot brings the silky texture and accessible sweetness that makes Guidalberto so distinctive. Fifteen months in French and American barriques give the wine its characteristic balance between strength and elegance.

Historically, the vineyards of Castello di Fonterutoli are located in the areas of three neighbouring municipalities of Chianti Classico: Castellina in Chianti, Castelnuovo Berardenga and Radda in Chianti. With the 2017 vintage, the Mazzei family vinified all three large vineyards separately as Chianti Classico Gran Selezione for the first time in order to recognise the diversity of the terroir: Castello di Fonterutoli, Vicoregio 36 and Badiòla.

Ruby garnet colour, fine violet note and many spices in the bouquet. Dense and compact with taut tannin and sweet fruit melt. Given time, this already very elegant red (age of the vines: 100 years, production: 4,000 bottles) is at the beginning of a long, promising development. SUPERIORE.DE

Characterful distillate made from the pomace of Torcolato dessert wine with a rich flavour of berries and fruit, wonderfully round and fresh in the mouth, with fine acidity and a slightly peppery bitter note. An extremely successful grappa! SUPERIORE.DE

20-year-old Ilatraia: opulent nose of red berries, pleasant smoky notes and fine herbal spices. Opulent and round on the palate, the fine tannins give the wine a delicate but firm structure and the necessary seriousness through to the long, soft finish. The well-integrated wood and the fruit of the Cabernet grape find an exciting symbiosis here in a very harmonious way with the rather strict and taut Petit Verdot style. SUPERIORE.DE

In Valdarno di Sopra, where Tuscan hills meet the foothills of the Apennines and time itself seems to pause, one of the most fascinating love stories in wine is born. Carnasciale is more than just a wine – it is the legacy of a vision that began in Berlin in 1963, when Bettina Schnabel and Wolf Rogosky met. Their love led them via New York to Mercatale Valdarno, where they bought an abandoned estate in 1972 and realised a dream: to create the most unique wine in the world. The secret lies in Caberlot, an enigmatic grape variety that agronomist Remigio Bordini discovered in the late 1960s in an overgrown vineyard near Padua – a natural cross between Cabernet Franc and Merlot that is not cultivated anywhere else in the world. When a devastating frost destroyed the olive trees in 1985, Wolf Rogosky saw his chance: in their place, he planted the first Caberlot vineyard with a revolutionary 10,000 vines per hectare. Superstitiously, he buried a bottle of Sassicaia under the first vine – a ritual that was to point the way to future success.

Contrada Rampante grows on the highest vineyard of Passopisciaro. The soils have a higher sand content and the harvest takes place later here. On the nose, dark red cherries, flowers, mint and liquorice. Rampante is an elegant, energetic and dynamic red with clear fruit and silky tannins. SUPERIORE.DE

Pianrosso: the red field. The name tells of iron-rich soils that give the Sangiovese that mineral depth that no cellar in the world can imitate. 11.7 hectares on the south-eastern edge of Montalcino, between 240 and 360 metres above sea level, where ancient marine material meets Galestro slate. Giuseppe Bianchini had the vineyard replanted in the 1980s, knowing that the heart of the winery lies dormant here. Pianrosso is only bottled in superior years, a strict selection of the best grapes, a whole year longer in Slavonian vats than the classic Brunello. 36 months in large wood, then further rest in the bottle. The result is not a wine for quick enjoyment, but a document of patience. In 2021, Montalcino produced one of those vintages that you never forget: bright September days, cool nights, perfect phenolic ripeness.