The Wine Advocate

On the classic bouquet, ripe cherry, tobacco and some damp earth. On the palate, first the pure Sangiovese feeling: beautiful small red berries, wild cherry, lively acidity. Then an impenetrable mesh of red and black fruits, which together with a fine web of tannins and minerals reveal more and more of themselves. Compressed and with each sip more open and present, the beautifully diversified taste components present themselves until they then lead into an aristocratically long and fresh finish with a hint of liquorice. SUPERIORE.DE

A name carries weight when it is the programme. Stilèma – derived from "Stile" and the name Mastroberardino – is not a marketing term, but a commitment. It was Antonio Mastroberardino, known as the "archaeologist of vineyards", who began digging in the early 2000s: experimental projects, selection of pre-phylloxeric clones, revision of all protocols in the vineyard and cellar. His goal was not a new style – it was a return to a lost one. The great white wines of Irpinia from the 1970s and 1980s had a density, a texture, a depth that later decades could not match. Stilèma was not intended to preserve this memory, but to translate it into the present.

In the upper areas of the historic Contrada Rovittello – at an altitude of around 700 metres, on volcanic rock with a high basalt content – the old Nerello Mascalese vines of Il Musmeci take root. Some of them are even over 100 years old, their roots penetrating deep into the barren, mineral-rich soil. The north-eastern flank of Mount Etna provides a cool microclimate with a strong contrast between day and night – decisive for the aromatic precision. The name Il Musmeci is a tribute to the former owner of the parcel, Cav. Santi Musmeci, whose respect for terroir and tradition became the legacy of this wine.

With the exception of 2016 and 2019, the last eight years in the region around Montalcino have been characterised by warm and dry conditions. For this reason, Il Poggione has started to prioritise irrigation for emergencies (which is becoming more and more of a necessity in the south-west of Montalcino) and is looking for a better balance in the higher vineyards. This is not the only reason why Il Poggione is one of the top producers every year, with an extremely fair value.

Lodano Rosso is a blend of Petit Verdot and Merlot that is seamlessly integrated with its dark fruits, blackberries and plums, which are nicely rounded off by smoke and tobacco from French oak and a smaller proportion of American oak. The Merlot comes from the winery's famous old vines, and the contemporary concentration and richness of the Lodano can be found in this wine as well as in the winery's entire portfolio. The dark fruits and spices speak in a deep baritone that calls for a juicy grilled steak, it also offers excellent value! SUPERIORE.DE

The top wine Cavalli Rosso comes from loose marl soils at an altitude of 400 metres facing south. It reveals a dark and lush fruit profile with intense blackberry, sour cherry, plum and graphite flavours. On the palate, it has a high primary intensity and medium weight, finishing with a very crisp acidity. It is polished and deep, balanced and supple with plenty of fruity power, weight and length. SUPERIORE.DE

Piandorino, the "entry-level wine" from Pian dell'Orino, represents its noble origins with great class. Light, bright ruby red in colour, with a beautiful bouquet of dark cherry, fresh plum, peppery notes and delicate vanilla tones. Juicy fruit on the palate, accompanied by a flattering woody note, finely balanced tannins and good length. This wine is fine and beautifully delicate on the finish. The grapes for Piandorino come from the estate's younger Brunello vines and around 3,000 bottles are produced each year. SUPERIORE.DE

When we discovered this winery by chance at the beginning of the 2000s, we were immediately impressed by the modesty and purism of the Biliorsi winemaking family. This is still the case today, they remain true to themselves and their philosophy and in good years, they produce just 10,000 bottles of a "slightly different" Brunello in the cellar.

Monprà combines equal parts Barbera and Nebbiolo from vines in Monforte d'Alba, some of which are over 50 years old, at an altitude of 300-400 metres, from sites with clayey-limestone marl soils interspersed with sandy veins. Fermentation is temperature-controlled and takes place separately for each grape variety in stainless steel, while malolactic fermentation and 18 months of ageing take place separately in French oak. Only then are the batches blended – a precise, elegant blend that combines the fullness of Barbera with the noblesse of Nebbiolo.

Lis is a mixed blend of Pinot Grigio, Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc and is one of the house's top wines. It has a wonderfully complex aroma of citrus and passion fruit, yellow apple and an initially barely perceptible flavour lead from the Sauvignon Bianco. All elements of this cuvée are equally and masterfully married on the palate, the mouthfeel is soft and round. This complex and at the same time elegant white wine, with its subtle pressure, whets the appetite for more and inevitably casts a spell over every Friuli fan. SUPERIORE.DE

Vigna San Francesco Cabernet Sauvignon is a solitaire among Sicilian red wines - not a Mediterranean outlier, but an expressive, noble representative of its grape variety, grown at an altitude of 570 metres in the cool vineyards of the Tenuta Regaleali winery in the heart of Sicily. The San Francesco parcel, planted with Cabernet since 1985, rests on calcareous clay soils whose structure and drainage lend the wine precision, depth and vigour.

The grapes for Clerico's entry-level Barolo come from younger vines in the top vineyards of Pajana, Ciabot Mentin and Percristina (Mosconi). The 2021 vintage is considered one of the best of the last decade: a balanced vegetation cycle with warm, sunny days and cool nights promoted even ripening and preserved the concise acidity structure. In the glass, it shines a rich garnet red with ruby-coloured reflections. The nose reveals a clear, complex aroma of ripe cherry, dark plum and dried rose, complemented by hints of violet, tobacco, liquorice and a fine, balsamic note. Powerful and precise on the palate, with juicy fruit, present, well-integrated acidity and taut, fine-grained tannins that promise a long development. The 2021 still needs to develop a little, but the essential components are already very convincing today. SUPERIORE.DE

Vintages write wine history – and 2021 is deeply engraved in Montalcino. Extreme drought, intense sunshine, nights that remained cool despite everything: The Sangiovese vines responded with concentrated, aromatically dense grapes that yielded little but showed a clear signature. For La Quinta, the wine from Ferrini's fifth vineyard at 400 metres above the Castello di Sant'Angelo in Colle, this meant an emphatic vintage. The vinification follows the tried and tested rhythm: 7 days of fermentation in steel, 13 days of maceration, then a year of ageing in tonneaux, large oak barrels and cocciopesto amphorae made of baked clay, before the wine is left to rest in cement and finally matures for at least 6 months in the bottle.

The Bordini parcel lies between gentle hills in the municipality of Neive, with a southern exposure and calcareous soil – one of the structure-forming Barbaresco vineyards that has always been famous for its power, elegance and depth. The 2021 vintage is considered particularly refined: A long, balanced growing season nourished the grapes with balanced ripeness, while cooler nights preserved the fine acidity. The manual harvest in mid-October was perfectly timed and ensured the high quality of the harvest. Ageing in large oak barrels for 12-14 months brought complementary depth without masking the clear fruit expression.

In the hills between Castagneto Carducci and the Tyrrhenian Sea, Grattamacco has achieved a feat: an elegant Vermentino that combines origin, grape variety and cultivation method with rare depth. The grapes come from organically cultivated plots at coastal altitudes – constantly ventilated, but characterised by intense sunshine and a high day/night temperature gradient. The combination of maritime breezes and calcareous soils creates a white wine of impressive substance.

Tasca was involved in Etna at an early stage and the latest result of this many years of experience are four new single vineyard wines from the Tascante winery: Contrada Rampante, Pianodario, Sciaranuova and Sciaranuova Vigna Vecchia (V.V.). The wines are filigree and profound, and despite their strength, acidity and tight tannin very elegant, rich in finesse and light-footed on the palate. Each of the four plots brings a slightly different style and personality to the wine due to the altitude, soil and morphology of the historical lava flows. A high annual rainfall secures all water reserves for the soil, and the temperature fluctuations between day and night support the variety of aromas of the grapes and ultimately the ripening potential.

Those who sow elegance must negotiate with the climate. The weather in 2022 was a tough negotiator in Montalcino: persistent drought, periods of heat, hardly any rainfall in the crucial summer months. The wines that emerged from this year are characterised by this – concentrated, structured, deep in fruit, with tannins that will need time. La Quinta originated, as always, from the fifth vineyard of Podere Giodo at an altitude of 400 metres – medium-gravel soils, south-easterly exposure, pure Sangiovese. Fermentation in steel for 7 days, maceration for 13 days. The 12-month wood ageing in tonneaux, large oak barrels and the characteristic Cocciopesto amphorae made of baked clay remains the stylistic backbone of the wine – an ageing process that integrates textures rather than imposing wood.

Tasca got involved in Etna early on and the latest result of these years of experience are four new single vineyard wines from the Tascante estate: Contrada Rampante, Pianodario, Sciaranuova and Sciaranuova Vigna Vecchia (V.V.). The wines are delicate and profound, and despite their power, acidity and taut tannin, very elegant, finesse-rich and light-footed on the palate. Each of the four plots brings a slightly different style and personality to the wine - due to the altitude, soil composition and morphology of the historic lava flows. A high annual rainfall ensures that the soil has all the water it needs, and the temperature fluctuations between day and night support the aromatic diversity of the grapes and ultimately the ripening potential.

A name that breathes history: since 2011, the grapes for Marchese Antinori have come exclusively from the vineyards of Tenuta Tignanello – the legendary location that lies at the heart of the Chianti Classico between the gentle hills of the Greve and Pesa valleys. Here, where the Medici once walked and where the Antinori family has been realising its visionary wine philosophy since 1850, one of the purest interpretations of Sangiovese thrives on stony limestone soils. The 2022 vintage tells of a summer of extremes – little rain until August, hot spells in June and July. But the old vines proved resilient: even budding, regular flowering, perfectly ripe grapes for the harvest. In the winery's cellars, winemaking was carried out with classic precision: gentle destemming, gentle pressing, one week of fermentation in stainless steel tanks. Ten days of maceration using gentle methods – an extraction that combines intensity with elegant, supple tannins. Natural acid degradation until the end of the year, then twelve months of ageing in French and Hungarian oak barrels, followed by a further twelve months of bottle ageing before release.

A wine with origin and signature: The grapes come from the renowned Scarrone vineyard directly below Castiglione Falletto – a warm south-east exposure with calcareous marl soils. Vietti cultivates the vineyard organically and vinifies the Vigna Scarrone with respect for the grape variety and terroir. Temperature-controlled maceration is followed by ageing in large barrels and used barriques – an approach that promotes both structure and elegance.