The Wine Advocate

This is a beautiful creation from a vintage that has presented some challenges to winemakers elsewhere in Italy and here in Piedmont. Barbaresco Bernadot with Treiso fruit shows a graceful, mid-weight approach to the 2014 vintage with red and purple fruits that are crisp and fresh. The bouquet is a sounding board for cassis, sour cherry, camphor ash, crushed stone and powdered licorice. Bernadot shows a firm texture and a lingering, silky intensity, while being refreshingly natural and weightless; an utterly captivating wine. SUPERIORE.DE

There are moments in wine history when terroir, vintage and human mastery come together to create something extraordinary. The Barolo Bricco Boschis 2021 is one such moment – born from one of the most celebrated vintages in recent history and from a vineyard that has belonged exclusively to the Cavallotto family for almost a century. 2021 was the year that reminded Barolo lovers of the classic virtues of the great vintages: elegance instead of power, finesse instead of opulence, freshness instead of overripe sweetness.

Forty vintages. You have to let that melt in your mouth: When Pierluigi Talenti left the mountains of his native Romagna in the early 1950s and came to the hills of Montalcino, he not only found work at Sant'Angelo in Colle, but also his life's work. For over four decades, he shaped one of the appellation's most famous addresses as cellar master of Il Poggione – and is still considered one of the founding fathers of modern Brunello. He selected his own Sangiovese clones, set new quality standards and became a role model for an entire generation. In 1980, at the end of this era, he bought the Podere Pian di Conte – an old estate with a round tower overlooking the Orcia Valley – and began to press his own Brunello. Pierluigi died in 1999. Since then, grandson Riccardo has run the estate with the same tenacity, advised by Carlo Ferrini and supported by the knowledge that there is something special in these soils of sandy loam, clay and galestro.

A radiant ruby-coloured eye-catcher – underneath is the Barolo Arborina 2020, one of the most important wines from the house of Elio Altare. The grapes come from the single vineyard Arborina, a south to south-east facing amphitheatre in the hills of La Morra, whose calcareous and clayey soil is marked by elemental minerality. The 2020 vintage certainly presented a challenge: Periods of heat and rapid ripening demanded the utmost attention when working in the vineyard. Nevertheless, a concentrated, elegant result was achieved. The grape harvest followed with ideal timing, guided by finesse and a feel for the critical moment. The wine was aged for around 24 months in 30% new and 70% used French barriques before being left to mature in the bottle.

The grapes for the profound Le Vigne come from Baudana in Serralunga d'Alba (for the power), Villero in Castiglione Falletto (for the precision), Vignane in Barolo (for the purity of the flavours) and Merli in Novello (for the fullness of the fruit). It opens wide with aromas of fresh red fruit and a delicate spicy note. Very intense on the palate, remarkably elegant, fine-grained tannins, extremely clear, structured and long. SUPERIORE.DE

Here is what is arguably one of Italy's finest Cabernet Francs: bluish hues blend with ruby red. The deep bouquet offers blackberries and hints of roasted coffee, followed as the wine opens up by notes of sea scrub, balsamic and minty notes. On the palate, full-bodied and silky tannins with hints of violets and mint, offering flavour and freshness. All this is underpinned by a refined elegance that carries through to a harmonious and lingering finish. SUPERIORE.DE

Altesinos Montosoli displays the famous characteristics of this particular site, which are always characterised by a pronounced mineral intensity, with hints of crushed granite and lead pencil layers. The five-hectare vineyard has a higher concentration of Galestro clay-slate rock, and the altitude contributes to the freshness of the wine.

Bricco Pernice, usually harvested slightly earlier, is a warm, south-facing plot in the prestigious Ravera vineyard at an altitude of 320 metres. Cognos Barolo offers the depth, richness and concentration that characterise this vineyard and the vintage. Blood orange, mint, sweet red cherry, star anise and a range of spicy notes lend it an impressive aromatic and flavour complexity. On the palate, it is medium-bodied, refined and expressive, with plenty to offer. Best of all, despite its potential, it is ready to drink after just a few years' bottle ageing. It is a graceful wine: polished, nuanced, elegant and impeccably balanced. SUPERIORE.DE

Grattamacco is a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Sangiovese, the latter grape variety certainly contributing to the fresh style of this wine. However, the overall picture is only complete when you realise that the vineyards used for this blend are among the best in the appellation. The Grattamacco Bolgheri Rosso Superiore is characterised by its typical aromas of leaves and Mediterranean forest, with subtle flavours of kiwi peel, cassis, paprika and chocolate. Velvety, youthful and firm on the attack, less light than the Alberello, but more tightly woven and of great elegance. Its length is astonishing, great potential! SUPERIORE.DE

1997 saw the birth of Bradisismo, named after the geological event that led to the formation of the Colli Berici. It is a successful symbiosis of the intense, concentrated flavour of ripe Cabernet cherries and the lively, spicy notes of Carménère. With its bouquet of small dark berries, spices, pepper and chocolate, it is a wonderfully inexpensive alternative to the great Bordeaux blends or Supertuscans. On the palate, it has a velvety texture, with a mix of dark fruits, cherries, floral notes and fine tannins that glide seamlessly over the palate. Deep, long finish and very good ageing potential. SUPERIORE.DE

The extremely complex Barbera d'Asti La Crena comes from vines up to 90 years old in the heart of the Nizza Monferrato region and smells of ripe red fruits, hay and pastries. The full-bodied, warm taste lingers long with plenty of dark fruit, well-proportioned acidity and fine cocoa tones. SUPERIORE.DE

"In 2012, I bought the small vineyard Le Gonnare and began to cultivate it. It represents the excellence of the Bolgheri terroir. The soil is clayey and rich in skeleton, which allows for very gradual ripening, a particularly important aspect for Merlot. The character of the wine is therefore Mediterranean, but balanced." Fabio Motta

Pajana - the most modern wine in the entire Clerico range - presents itself as a closed, compact wine with great potential. Rich ruby colour with a slight garnet rim. Compact nose, with rich notes of blackberry, dark cherries and a hint of cinchona bark in the background. Literally explodes on the palate, lots of ripe, present fruit, then opens up with lots of fine-meshed tannins, savoury depth, full-bodied pressure. SUPERIORE.DE

Siepi has always been more than just a vineyard – it was a vision waiting to become reality. Owned by the Mazzei family since 1435, this mystical place lies amidst dense oak forests near Castellina in Chianti: ten hectares of pure magic on Alberese soils, which even the ancient Romans knew how to appreciate. Paradoxically, the story of Siepi 2023 begins with one of the most challenging vintages of recent times. A mild winter with scant rainfall, followed by a rainy spring that pushed the Mazzei winemakers to their limits. And yet, or perhaps precisely because of this, a wine emerged that impressively embodies the estate's philosophy: "Great vineyards shine in difficult vintages."

Here comes the third vintage of Stefano Frascolla's heart project from the Alta Maremma. Just 2,500 bottles of this 100% Syrah are bottled, aged (on the skins) for half a year in amphorae, then filtered and matured in small French oak barrels.

In the summer of 1983, Elio Altare picked up a chainsaw and cut up his father's old Slavonian barrels. An act of rebellion, a break with tradition and the start of a revolution in Barolo. His father subsequently disinherited him, but Elio remained true to his path: Burgundian vinification, French barriques, shorter maceration and ageing periods. The Langhe traditionalists were appalled. But what of the wines? They sold out immediately. Today, Elio Altare is regarded as one of the "Barolo Boys", a pioneer of the modern Barolo style – and Arborina is his most famous flagship wine.

Sangiovese in purezza. Wonderfully spicy aroma, dark forest berries and cherries, some graphite and cedar wood. Silky elegance on the palate, juicy, dark berries, paired with an animating interplay of fruit and acidity that really lets the wine dance across the tongue. Percarlo has depth and length as well as potential for many years in the cellar. One of the great single-varietal Sangiovese wines of central Tuscany. SUPERIORE.DE

Zottorinoto is not just any contrada – it is a legend among connoisseurs of Etna. Embedded in the historic parcel landscape around Castiglione di Sicilia, this single vineyard rests at 750 metres above sea level, characterised by ancient, barren lava flows rich in basalt, ash and volcanic sand. Wines with a crystal-clear mineral identity are produced here, in which the fire of Mount Etna meets the cool elegance of high altitudes. Only a small proportion of the vines – exclusively Nerello Mascalese – is earmarked for this exceptional Riserva. The vines are deeply rooted in the dark soils, many of them over half a century old, cultivated in the traditional Alberello way. Vinification is carried out with the utmost care: manual harvest in small crates, spontaneous fermentation on the skins for around 30 days, gentle pumping over, long maceration. The wine then matures for 24 months in French tonneaux (partly new), followed by a further 24 months in the bottle. The 2019 vintage was balanced and cool – with long vegetation cycles, ideal ripeness and striking freshness. A year for long-lasting, precisely structured wines.

Altesinos Riserva is fermented in steel tanks and matures for three years in Slavonian oak barrels. The top 2019 vintage has produced generous wines that are multi-layered and rich, but also tight at their core. This wine exemplifies this, bringing plenty of tart Sangiovese fruit and freshness. Also shows an impressive richness of flavours with dried cherries, liquorice, pressed violets, balsamic herbs and dusty limestone. The palate is beautifully polished and slightly fleshy, spreading out beautifully as it progresses, compact and harmonious, salty on the impressive final, as we really only notice with Casanova di Neri. SUPERIORE.DE

Every year, La Crena is one of the best and most refined Barbera wines that Piedmont produces. The vines in the Vigna del Nove parcel date back to the 1930s. This vintage will also need many years to develop its full expressiveness, but that's the way it is and we love this crazy development potential so much. La Crena is creamy and rich in the glass, dense, very concentrated with an abundance of layers of fruit that only develop fully with further years of ageing and make for an energetic, exciting wine. SUPERIORE.DE

Luce is the iconic wine of the estate of the same name and symbolises the harmonious balance between the elegant structure of Sangiovese and the richness of Merlot. The wine marries the tradition and terroir of the Montalcino region with a personal interpretation of this extraordinary land.

For Siro Pacenti, the term "Vecchie Vigne" is not a romantic gesture. It is an agricultural decision. The oldest vines on both family estates – Pelagrilli in the north and Piancornello in the south – have now been growing for up to 60 years. They are not replaced, but tended; where necessary, they are supplemented with massal-selected cuttings from the finest mother vines. What these vines yield each year is small – but of the highest quality. 2021 was a year of reduction. The April frost affected vines at all altitudes, decimating harvest volumes and concentrating what remained on the essentials. The harvest took place in unusually calm conditions – no rain, no pressure, and a precise choice of harvest. What arrived in the cellar was already exceptional. Fermentation in steel, 24 months in French barriques, two months in concrete, 22 months in bottle.

Sibi et paucis – "for oneself and a select few". Under this Latin motto, the Sandrone family sets aside a small portion of its Nebbiolo production each year to be aged in the perfect conditions of its own wine cellar. The Valmaggiore is given four years' additional ageing beyond the regular release – time that allows the Nebbiolo from the Roero to develop in a way that requires nothing but patience.