Doctor Wine

Every year, Istine's Chianti Classico is one of the most racy and authentic representatives of its genre. Its weightlessness and at the same time precision make up a large part of its appeal. A finely knit bouquet of red berries, flowers, chalk and white pepper. Medium-bodied on the palate, its fine fruit, creamy tannins and plenty of personality come to light with further aeration. A red wine that takes hearts by storm with its lively, dancing and extremely fine nerve! SUPERIORE.DE

This is where it all began. In Viagrande, on the south-eastern slope of Mount Etna, where Giuseppe Benanti's grandfather planted the first vines at the end of the 19th century, lies the heart of the winery. The Contrada Monte Serra is no ordinary vineyard – it rises on an extinct volcanic cone that once erupted independently of the main crater and whose pyroclastic deposits created a unique soil: light, rich in skeletons, with exceptional drainage. At an altitude of just 450 metres, closer to the Ionian Sea than the other contrade, the grapes ripen earlier here and develop a softer, more accessible elegance. The vines – some over 100 years old – grow in the traditional Alberello on small terraces with lava stone dry stone walls, with an extreme density of 9,000 vines per hectare. The sandy volcanic soils are rich in ripiddu, the characteristic small pumice skeleton of Etna.

Terra di Monteverro is the estate's finely composed second wine, but in terms of expression, fidelity to its origins and depth, it is far more than that. It comes from the stony, coastal slopes near Capalbio in the southern Maremma - a region that was characterised by a long, warm summer in 2021 with moderate peaks and cool nights in September. The climatic balance allowed the Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Merlot and Petit Verdot grape varieties, which were harvested and vinified parcel by parcel, to ripen perfectly.

Count Giuseppe Tasca d'Almerita created the first expression of the highest quality and longevity in Sicilian viticulture in 1970 with the Rosso del Conte – a wine that changed the oenological future of the island forever. The grapes come from the Vigna San Lucio, Regaleali's first large vineyard, born in 1959 at an altitude of 480 metres with a south-south-easterly exposure, where Nero d'Avola and Perricone have thrived in harmonious symbiosis for generations. The vines grow in the Alberello system, the oldest form of cultivation in the Mediterranean, on yellow-brown, loamy-sandy soils with calcareous inclusions. A philosophy of perfection that has developed over five decades through various ageing methods: from the original chestnut barrels to Slavonian oak and today's French barriques.

The project aims to highlight the link between the vines, the wines and their territorial origins. The Mastroberardino family wants to recreate the style of winemaking of the indigenous grape varieties of Irpinia (Greco, Fiano and Aglianico) that took place between the late 1950s and early 1970s for the Taurasi and between 1970 and 1980 for the two white wines from Irpinia. It is the unmistakable style (the stilèma) of a family that has interpreted the natural heritage of its territory over generations and that today impressively emphasises the genuine character of the terroir, which by no means can be expressed through high concentration and intensity alone.

The Pianodario parcel is located at an average altitude of 775 metres above sea level between the hamlet of Montelaguardia and Randazzo. It covers an area of around 8 hectares of vineyards. The soils are of volcanic origin and are up to 40,000 years old.

Just under 950 metres above sea level, on the south-western slope of Mount Etna, lies the Contrada Cavaliere, a single vineyard that stands out even in the diverse cosmos of the Etna Contrada. Less rainfall than elsewhere on the volcano, but an abundance of light and dramatic changes in temperature between day and night: conditions that give the Carricante that unmistakable tension for which connoisseurs seek out this contrada. The 50 year old vines are rooted in volcanic sands with a sub-acid profile and rich in skeletons – a soil that forces the plant to root deeply and guarantees low yields of just 6,000 kg per hectare. The grapes are harvested by hand in October, gently pressed and fermented in stainless steel using the estate's own Etna yeast. The wine then rests for twelve months on the fine lees, stirred regularly, followed by a further six months of bottle ageing.

The classic from the heart of Chianti Classico: Brolio combines the excellent drinkability of a young Chianti Classico with a complex, complete structure. The vineyards grow on the historic Castello di Brolio between 280 and 480 metres above sea level on five representative soil types – from sandstone to galestro and marine sediments. Intense ruby red colour. Fresh, floral nose with notes of chinotto, violets and mimosa, leading to fruity nuances of black cherries and sweet mint. Velvety and complex on the palate with great harmony, elegant structure and a long, mineral final. A textbook Chianti Classico from a historic terroir. SUPERIORE.DE

Rocca di Frassinello is a bold, exotic wine. Ripe red cherries, kirsch, cinnamon and rose petals can be found in this extravagant red wine from the Maremma. The luscious fruit and silky tannins contribute to its great appeal. Over time, notes of sweet pipe tobacco, cedar and mint emerge, giving it a striking inner perfume and sweetness. This is Maremma in Purezza. SUPERIORE.DE

Tasca became involved in Etna at an early stage and the latest result of these years of experience are four single-vineyard red wines from the Tascante estate: Contrada Rampante, Pianodario, Sciaranuova and Sciaranuova Vigna Vecchia (V.V.). The Sciaranuova parcel is located at an average altitude of 730 metres above sea level between the villages of Montelaguardia and Passopisciaro. It covers an area of approximately 4.9 hectares of vineyards. The soils are of volcanic origin and up to 40,000 years old.

Maneo – i stay, I wait. What sounds like a silent promise in Latin becomes a philosophy at Enrico Serafino: this Gavi only leaves the winery five years after the harvest. While other Cortese wines have long since been drunk, the Maneo matures quietly – first on its fine lees in stainless steel, then in the bottle until time has done its work. The grapes come from the best parcels in the heart of the appellation, where clay and limestone-rich soils with a low pH value give the Cortese the tension that distinguishes it from the pleasing everyday white. Vinification follows the credo of maximum care: hand-picking, sorting on a vibrating table, cooling with carbonic acid snow to prevent oxidation. The grapes are gently pressed and some of the grapes are left to macerate overnight at cool temperatures – a touch of extraction that gives the wine substance without jeopardising its elegance.

An old, disused railway line runs through the countryside of Castiglione di Sicilia, on the northern slopes of Mount Etna. It no longer goes anywhere – the rails are rusting, the land is slowly becoming overgrown. But it still exists as a border. It separates the Contrada Cottanera from the Contrada Diciasettesalme. And it gives this wine its precise geographical name: "beyond the railway". Diciasettesalme is one of the oldest vineyard names in Etna viticulture. Its name comes from a historical Sicilian unit of measurement – the salma, an area that a mule could plough in one day. Seventeen of these correspond to around 25 hectares. On this land, Nerello Mascalese grows on black lava sands and clay-rich volcanic soils at an altitude of 750 to 800 metres – one of the coolest and most exposed sites in the entire appellation area.

Since summer 2023, Chianti Classico producers have been allowed to include the eleven additional geographical indications (UGA = unità geografiche aggiuntive) introduced in 2021 on the labels of the top Gran Selezione category. For Chianti Classico winegrowers, it is a logical step to produce wines that reflect the area in which they were produced as authentically as possible. And customers can thus deepen their knowledge of the relationship between the wines and their region of origin - a real added value.

Since summer 2023, Chianti Classico producers have been allowed to include the eleven additional geographical indications (UGA = unità geografiche aggiuntive) introduced in 2021 on the labels of the top Gran Selezione category. For Chianti Classico winegrowers, it is a logical step to produce wines that reflect the area in which they were produced as authentically as possible. And customers can thus deepen their knowledge of the relationship between the wines and their region of origin - a real added value.

In the vineyards of Rancia Piccola and Poggiolo, where a Benedictine monastery once watched over the hills of Castelnuovo Berardenga, a quiet revolution has been taking place since 1987. Maestro Raro – the rare master – bears the name of the legendary vineyard parcel, also known as "Mastro Raro", which neighbours the famous Rancia vineyard. Here, the Poggiali family dared to do the seemingly impossible: to breathe the terroir of Fèlsina into the world-famous Cabernet Sauvignon, that magical place where normally only Sangiovese performs at its best.

The Taurasi 2016 from Pietracupa is a lesson in patience and precision – an Aglianico from high vineyards in Irpinia that only reveals its complex spectrum of flavours after years of ripening. The year 2016 brought ideal conditions: a moderate summer, sufficient rainfall and a long, dry autumn, which allowed a late harvest of healthy, perfectly ripe grapes. Deep dark ruby red in the glass with a garnet-red rim. The nose is multi-layered and rich in detail: black cherry, blackberry, ripe plum, dried violets, tobacco, dark chocolate, graphite and fine spice nuances. It is powerful on the palate, with a firm tannin structure, lively acidity and fruit that is carried by fresh energy despite its maturity. Ageing over many months in large wooden barrels gives the wine depth and harmonious integration of flavours. The finish is long, balsamic and characterised by mineral spice – a Taurasi with great nobility that combines the power of Aglianico with cool precision.

Contrada Sciaranuova Bianco delivers an expressive portrait of the volcano – a white wine of crystalline clarity, grown at an altitude of 850 metres on the northern flanks of Mount Etna in the Contrada of the same name near Passopisciaro. The vines – almost exclusively Carricante – are deeply rooted in layers of lava rich in iron and ash, characterised by a strong day-night amplitude and a cool microclimate. The 2022 vintage was phenomenal in Sicily: a fresh spring, a moderate summer and a long ripening phase until October allowed for a precise harvest with excellent freshness and mineral expression.

Volpaia – the foxhole. High above Radda in Chianti, at 450 to 650 metres above sea level, the vineyards of Castello di Volpaia are located on the highest slopes of the appellation. The medieval borgo, first mentioned in a document in 1172, has belonged to the Mascheroni-Stianti family since 1966, who consistently farm organically here. The altitude shapes the character: sandstone soils, cool nights and long ripening periods give the Sangiovese (supplemented by 10% Merlot) a freshness and elegance that would be hard to achieve in warmer locations. Fermented with indigenous yeasts, matured for twelve months in large oak barrels.

The relatively young DOC Colli Tortonesi is probably still one of the least known wine regions in Piedmont. The term Derthona is already used as a generic term. It is the old name for Tortona, a small village in the centre of the DOC. The indigenous white grape variety Timorasso led a shadowy existence for many years, but today some winegrowers are already calling it the "white Barolo". This is due to its great complexity and finesse on the one hand and the excellent ageing potential of the wines on the other. In addition, the grapes often vary in size and ripeness during the harvest, which makes selection a major challenge, just as with the great Nebbiolo crus.

On 11 September 2001, a concert was to take place in the hills of Figline Valdarno. Sting was standing on the stage of his Tuscan villa when the news arrived from New York. He played anyway – not as entertainment, but as therapy. That evening, the feeling of emptiness and the search for meaning gave rise to an album two years later: "Sacred Love", a meditation on love as the only answer to a world in chaos. "We have to go back to that basic thing," said Sting at the time, "mother love, father love, husband love, wife love, child love – because when you don't have that, all hell breaks loose."

Pas Operé – "not dosed" in the original sense, when it was still dosed by hand. The name is a play on words, as this Extra Brut is very well dosed, but with such restraint that the terroir shines through unadulterated. For decades, Pas Operé has been Bellavista's flagship, the wine that most clearly bears the signature of the house: classic, masculine, timeless. The 2018 Pas Operé is the result of a rigorous selection of around 25 plots on slopes and hillsides with south or south-east exposure, the vines are over twenty years old. 64 per cent Chardonnay for finesse and structure, 36 per cent Pinot Nero for depth and complexity. Half of the base wines are matured in French white oak barriques, which gives the wine its characteristic intensity. The assemblage is followed by five years on the lees – sixty months, during which flavours intensify, textures refine and perlage refines. Only then, at least six years after the harvest, does the Pas Operé leave the Erbusco winery.

Feudo di Mezzo is located in the heart of the northern Etna belt – one of the oldest and most traditional contrade around Castiglione di Sicilia. The vineyards are situated at an altitude of around 750 metres on ancient lava flows and iron-rich volcanic soils that produce dark fruit, mineral depth and remarkable elegance. The microclimate is cool, the exposure ideal – large temperature differences between day and night favour slow, complete ripening. Feudo di Mezzo is not considered one of the Grand Cru from the volcano for nothing. The pure Nerello Mascalese comes from vines that are over 60 years old and trained as Alberello. The grapes are harvest manually in small crates, followed by a traditional maceration with a long standing time at controlled temperatures. The wine then matures for 14 months in Liters French oak tonneaux before resting for a further year in the bottle.