Barolo

The grapes for UnoPerUno come from the cru sites Arborina in La Morra, Cannubi in Barolo, Pernanno in Castiglione Falletto, Sarmassa in Barolo and Cerretta in Serralunga d'Alba and are individually destemmed. As a result of this intensive manual labour, just 1,300 bottles of this exceptional wine are sold in the well-stocked specialist shops, and only in the best vintages. Due to the manual destemming, no green overtones from the stems get into the mash, making the tannins silkier and creamier than with the conventional method. The result is something to savour: UnoPerUno has a high fruit intensity, incredible depth and structure and is a benchmark of the appellation every year in its purity and clarity on the nose and palate. SUPERIORE.DE

Mosconi 2021 comes from one of the most renowned crus of Monforte d'Alba – a site known for its brooding, clay-limestone soils and south-westerly exposure. The terroir here gives the Nebbiolo particular depth, warmth and structural density. The 2021 vintage was almost ideal in the Langhe: a cool, slow start to the growing season, followed by a stable summer without heat stress and a dry, sunny autumn created perfect conditions for the grapes to ripen slowly, with high aromatic complexity and finely polished tannins.

The purchase of the Mosconi Cru parcels in Monforte by Pio Boffa is one of the last major decisions taken by the estate – with the aim of complementing the depth of Serralunga (Ornato) with Monforte gravity. Selective hand-picking; separate fermentation in stainless steel with a carefully extended maceration period, malolactic without haste. Classic ageing in large barrels, moderate proportion of French oak as a fine brushstroke of texture. The 2020 vintage fitted in well with the concept: a stable summer, clear nights for ripening and precise harvest – healthy, ripe harvest, polished phenolics and generous, balanced fruit were the result.

It was spring 2010, a family lunch at Altare. Elio opens a bottle of Larigi 1986 – a Barbera from a notoriously difficult vintage, characterised by hail and rain, one of the last bottles from the family library. The expectations? Low. The result? Spectacular. Antonio Galloni later said of this wine: "The fruit remains lively and incredibly pure right through to the long, polished final. The balance is simply superb." Why was this wine so exceptional? Because in 1986, in a vintage destroyed by hail, Elio decided to destem every single berry by hand – only the few perfect berries went into the mash. Two barriques, 600 bottles, one great Barbera. Silvia Altare remembers this lunch and the idea that came from it: "Why don't we try this with Nebbiolo? And why not with our historic family vineyard Arborina?" The 2010 harvest was imminent and the grapes were perfectly ripe. The goal? Maximum purity of the fruit – no stems, no leaves, no unwanted berries, no insects. Because Nebbiolo is difficult to destem completely: The stems are fragile, even the most expensive machines cannot work as precisely as the human hand. 26 days of work, three barriques, 900 bottles – the first UnoPerUno was born. 2010 was never released, it was the first attempt ...

The grapes for Roberto's "entry-level Barolo" come from four of his best vineyards, which are harvested a few weeks earlier than those reserved for his Grand Crus. It is also the most balanced of his Barolo wines, even if the fruit and acidity are anything but restrained, but the proportions are just right here. The structure is great, its length and elegance inspiring - the refined layered components such as raspberry, cherry and its subtle salty vein make it without doubt one of the most serious wines of the entire appellation - a real Voerzio for comparatively little money. SUPERIORE.DE

Barolo Ravera Vigna Elena Riserva DOCG 2018 is a monument to precision craftsmanship and at the same time a rare one-off: it comes from a pure planting of the historic Nebbiolo variety Nebbiolo Rosé – an independent, genetically distinct variety that almost disappeared from the Barolo vineyards over the course of the 20th century. Elvio Cogno and his family have consciously preserved this rare grape variety in the Vigna Elena monopoly position. The parcel is located in the upper Ravera zone near Novello, on poor, calcareous and clayey soils with optimal south-west exposure. The result is low yields, late-ripening grapes and a distinctive style: lighter colour, beguiling floral depth, fine, almost silky tannins and enormous aromatic precision.

There are vintages that confirm the terroir of La Morra – and those that redefine it. 2022 belongs to the second category. A warmer year, earlier ripening grapes, an accessibility that the 2021 did not have. And yet: Voerzio's philosophy does not change with the vintage. Extreme yield reduction, natural yeasts, no filtration – the means are the same, the result is a different face of the same community. Four vineyards from Roberto Voerzio's most important estate in La Morra: Cerequio, La Serra, Fossati, Case Nere. Each represents a different aspect of the municipality's terroir – the elegance and freshness of La Serra, the mineral rigour of Case Nere, the warmth of Cerequio, the finesse of Fossati.

La Morra is the softest, most flowery municipality in the Barolo region – that's not a cliché, it's geology. The limestone-rich, marl-like soils of this high altitude give the Nebbiolo a fineness of tannin and a floral aroma that is not found in the sandier sites of Serralunga or Castiglione Falletto. Roberto Voerzio has understood these characteristics better than almost anyone else – and has built up his entire business on La Morra since 1986. The Barolo del Comune di La Morra brings together four of his most important single vineyards in one wine: Cerequio, La Serra, Fossati and Case Nere. None of these parcels stands back – each brings its own character, its own texture, its own flavour. The assemblage is not created to hide imperfections, but to fully reveal the image of the commune. 12 months in tonneaux, then bottle ageing. Natural yeasts, no filtration, no intervention.

Vigna Elena is a Ravera parcel of 1 hectare in size. Just 5,000 bottles of Cogno's famous Riserva come from here every year. The Vigna Elena 2019 has just the right balance between fruit and wood, which is often a real challenge in this category. The rather bright bouquet has red fruits and nuances of truffle, ash, dried citrus peel and pressed flowers. Elegant, brooding and powerful, as only a great Barolo can be, Vigna Elena possesses a wealth of nuances and dimensions from the very first sip. Exotic spice and orange peel notes, followed later by ripe raspberries, mocha and autumn leaves. The Vigna Elena 2019 is an absolute delight. SUPERIORE.DE

Barolo Cannubi 2021 is a great wine that emphasises the classic beauty of Nebbiolo and the top vintage. This wine is like a statue of a Greek goddess with perfect proportions and feminine aesthetics. The bouquet is multi-layered, with bright fruits, white pepper, mint, orange peel and spicy liquorice. The tannins are polished and fine, with a hint of the characteristic limestone chalk that you sometimes taste in Cannubi. The lively acidity rounds off this extremely elegant, fresh and graceful wine. Very full-bodied and focussed, with great length and great potential. SUPERIORE.DE

Chiara Boschi's Cannubi 2020 beguiles on the nose with layers of fragrant fruit. A sensual Barolo and yet quite typical in its vineyard character. Soft, silky tannins frame the long finish. A wonderful wine, characterised by its balance and above all by the sweetness of its tannins. Very full-bodied, focussed and with great length. SUPERIORE.DE

The Falletto vineyard in Serralunga d'Alba is considered the centrepiece of Bruno Giacosa's work. The south and south-west facing slopes with calcareous marl soils produce Nebbiolo with unmistakable depth and structure. The 2020 vintage was characterised by a warm, sunny summer, balanced by cool nights and a long, stable autumn – ideal conditions for fully ripe, aromatically complex grapes with precise acidity.

Giulia Negri would certainly not have the nickname "Barolo Girl" if this wine did not exist. The grapes for this archetype of a modern-traditional (sic!) Barolo come from the top vineyards of Brunate and Serradenari, the latter of which lies at an altitude of up to 520 metres and the soils are clayey-sandy. The grapes are fermented spontaneously and then matured in large oak barrels. Barriques? Not a chance.

In 1982, Bruno Giacosa bought the Falletto vineyard in Serralunga d'Alba. It was the first and most important investment of his life – and it came as no surprise to those who knew him. Since the 1960s, he had been vinifying bought-in grapes from this south-eastern corner of the Barolo area and making wines that are still among the reference points of the appellation today. When the farmers began to bottle their own wines, there was only one answer for Giacosa: to buy what he could no longer rent.

La Serra 2015 comes from a fairly warm year and here the advantage of the slightly higher and cooler location is clearly evident. As always, the flavours are bright and floral, with a good underpinning of chalky, mineral tones, with remarkable polish and class. Dark red stone fruits, flowers, spices and leather are supported by the characteristic firm tannins, lovely depth in the mid palate and overall a great volume that makes it seem complete and perfect. A great wine and one of the best Barolo of the 2015 vintage. SUPERIORE.DE

Barolo Brunate is a breathtaking expression of great complexity and finesse. The wine has a lively garnet red colour with a balanced and intense bouquet: sage, mint, undergrowth, tar, tobacco and liquorice nuances give Brunate a striking aromatic complexity. At the heart of the bouquet, as well as on the palate, there is plenty of dark fruit, including blackcurrants and plums. Gains breadth with time in the glass and the already fine tannins will certainly become even smoother with further ageing in the bottle. A Barolo with real presence and stature and for us the most accessible Barolo in Voerzio's exceptional collection! SUPERIORE.DE

Marassio is Giulia Negri's highest Barolo parcel and lies at an altitude of just under 540 metres on the western edge of La Morra – a cool, windy location where Nebbiolo ripens particularly slowly and evenly. The soil, rich in limestone marl and fine clay, gives the wine a distinctive minerality and firm structure. The wine is aged for 30 months in large, neutral wooden barrels to preserve the pure expression of the site. 2020 offered a balanced climate with warm, dry phases and sufficiently cool nights, which gave the Nebbiolo a rare balance of aromatic richness and precise acidity.

Barolo Cerequio unfolds its cornucopia of cherries, ripe red berries, violets, leather and tar only after many minutes in the glass. Firm and powerful on the palate - shows an impressive and firm structure, yet the wine remains delicate, mineral and full of finesse throughout. It is perhaps the most balanced of Roberto Voerzio's top wines, and even if it appears quite accessible at a young age, it will only reveal its true potential and class in many years. SUPERIORE.DE

Undisputedly the most powerful and robust Barolo in Roberto Voerzio's top range is the Rocche dell'Annunziata from one of La Morra's best sites. For us, it is a benchmark in determination and forward-driven dynamism. Wonderfully coordinated fruit and spice components, a great wealth of impressions and precisely drawn beauty characterise this exceptional Barolo. Intensely fragrant nose of plums, pickled cherries and lots of raspberry, rounded off by cedar, spices and tobacco. In its depth, complexity and determination it does not come to rest, even 24 hours after opening the bottle the connoisseur is still surprised with fine notes of mint and balsam and this immensely expressive and charming wine shows no signs of ageing. SUPERIORE.DE

Some layers are loud, others whisper. Cerequio is one of the whisperers – and if you don't listen carefully, you will miss the subtle nuances that make this cru one of the most enigmatic in the entire Barolo universe. Surrounded by its most prestigious neighbours La Morra, Cerequio lies at an altitude of 300 metres above a foundation of white clay and bluish marl. Roberto Voerzio likes to compare his Cerequio wines with Haut-Brion – an unusual comparison for a Barolo, but anyone who tastes this wine will understand the allusion: it is about that ethereal elegance that unfolds rather than imposes itself. What distinguishes Cerequio from the more powerful crus is its almost floating lightness. Voerzio speaks of "round, elegant, ethereal" – attributes that are rarely associated with Barolo. But this is precisely where the magic lies: Cerequio combines density with finesse, concentration with airiness. The 24-month maturation in French barriques and large barrels has given the wine depth without stifling its youthful grace.

Undeniably the most powerful and robust Barolo in Roberto Voerzio's top range is the Rocche dell'Annunziata from one of the best sites of La Morra. For us, it is a benchmark in determination and forward-driven dynamism. Wonderfully coordinated fruit and spice components, a great wealth of impressions and precisely drawn beauty characterise this exceptional Barolo. Intensely fragrant nose of plums, pickled cherries and lots of raspberry, rounded off by cedar, spices and tobacco. In its depth, complexity and determination it does not come to rest, even 24 hours after opening the bottle the connoisseur is still surprised with fine notes of mint and balsam and this immensely expressive and charming wine shows no signs of ageing. SUPERIORE.DE

Extremely focussed Barolo in a class of its own. Precisely defined fruit notes of wild berries, blackcurrant, rosehip and crushed slate. Firm on the palate with a very well-defined core, softly enveloped and cushioned by a very relaxed texture. Its elegance and extreme length, together with its well-balanced power, put it on a par with the Brunate from the same house. SUPERIORE.DE

Barolo La Serra emerges from the glass with a playful bouquet of dark red fruits, tar, smoke, liquorice, spices and new leather. The high-pitched notes of rose petals, which are typical of this vineyard near La Morra, are complemented by fine strawberry and raspberry notes and, in this wonderfully elegant and subtle overall package, result in an attractive, extremely elegant Barolo that is hard to beat in terms of finesse, purity and length. SUPERIORE.DE