Wine Spectator

"The Barolo DOCG Margheria comes from the calcareous soil with a slightly higher proportion of sand than in our other sub-areas, which has a strong influence on its character. It was produced for the first time in 1985 and has great ageing potential. The grapes come from our vineyard in the MGA Margheria in Serralunga d'Alba." Franco Massolino

"The Barolo DOCG Parafada is perfect for long ageing and surprising development. Elegant, refined, austere. Vinified in vats, matured in large barrels. Made with Nebbiolo grapes from our vineyard in the MGA Parafada in Serralunga d'Alba." Franco Massolino

What does a name mean? In the Piedmontese dialect, "Pajè" once simply referred to the various vineyard parcels – an everyday word for everyday things. The fact that this name now stands for one of the most legendary crus of Barbaresco is one of the beautiful ironies of wine history. The Roagna family has been cultivating 1.83 hectares here in the heart of the municipality since 1953, and anyone who asks Luca Roagna about the core of his work will inevitably end up here. The vineyard is a natural amphitheatre: gently sloping to the south and south-west, protected from the wind by hills and open to the Tanaro valley. The soil tells of 70 million years of – marine sediments from the Tertiary period, interspersed with active limestone in a concentration that is exceptional even for the Langhe. The vines, on average over 50 years old, are deeply rooted in this history. After the harvest, the must ferments with its own yeasts and macerates for up to two months with a submerged cap. Five years in large wooden barrels and concrete complete the maturation process.

On the steep slopes of Sorano, where the ancient Serravallian soils of Serralunga d'Alba unleash their full geological power, lies Matteo Ascheri's most precious secret: two tiny parcels that together produce no more than 2,800 bottles per vintage and yet embody the essence of what makes a great Barolo. Vigna Coste and Vigna Bricco – the slopes and the summit – are two faces of the same extraordinary medal, united in a wine that only sees the light of day in the very greatest years. Coste & Bricco is Matteo's ultimate homage to the diversity of the Sorano terroir. While Vigna Coste on the slopes delivers the minerality and structure for which Serralunga is famous, Vigna Bricco from the hilltop brings the concentration and aromatic intensity that only the most exposed sites can produce. This combination of two micro-terroirs within a single MGA creates a Barolo of exceptional complexity – a wine that combines both the power and finesse of Serralunga.

Scrio is Tuscan and means: pure, sincere, whole. Since 1994, this wine has been Cinzia Merli's vision of a single-varietal Syrah that is neither French nor Californian, but Mediterranean and Tuscan at the same time. Produced in minimal quantities, this wine quickly became the reference in Bolgheri for a grape variety that is not actually native to the region. The 2021 marks a turning point: 50% of the grapes now come from new hillside vineyards, which gives the wine an elegance and delicacy that is almost reminiscent of Pinot Noir. After 20 days of fermentation and maceration in concrete tanks and earthenware amphorae, the Scrio matures for 14 months in neutral French oak, clayvers and earthenware amphorae – an ageing process that emphasises the lively fruit.

Geologists speak of erosion. Winegrowers speak of fate. Over millions of years, the rocks above Castiglione Falletto weathered and formed the soil on which Pira now thrives. When Luca Roagna acquired half a hectare on these very Rocche in 2016, a circle was completed: the mother rock returned to the child. The parcel is located in the historic heart of the site, at the top of the hill at three hundred metres, with a pure southern exposure. Calcareous clay soils, interspersed with white rock and sand, nourish Nebbiolo vines from the 1960s and 70s – planted with vines from ancient stocks. Situated right next to the new winery, this vineyard is Roagna's most intimate property: just 0.48 hectares, from which a Barolo is created that Antonio Galloni simply calls "pure sensuality".

Anyone who hears the name Albesani inevitably thinks of Bruno Giacosa and his mythical Santo Stefano. The fact that Luca Roagna has been cultivating a plot of land in the immediate neighbourhood since 2014 is one of the best-kept secrets of Barbaresco – and one of its most exciting developments. The plot is located at 240 metres at the highest point of the hill, where the area borders Santo Stefano. The terroir is characterised by chalky soils with a good proportion of sand, and fifty-year-old Nebbiolo vines are deeply rooted in this privileged soil. Albesani has held MGA certification since 2007 – late recognition for a vineyard that connoisseurs have long counted among the greatest in the region. The vinification follows the Roagna canon: maceration with a submerged cap for two months, five years of ageing in large barrels and concrete.

A handful of fresh cherries. Bite into them. Juice running down your fingers. Tasting Gallina 2020 is an immediate, sensual, irresistible experience. Among the Roagna-Barbareschi, it is the seducer, the wine that does not impress with its austere grandeur, but captivates with its open charm. The family has been cultivating a plot in Neive's most famous MGA since 2014. The calcareous clay soil with a high proportion of sand gives the Nebbiolo here the silky finesse that distinguishes Gallina from its more austere neighbours. Antonio Galloni calls the site "the source of the roundest and most accessible Barbareschi in the municipality". Wines that can be drunk early and yet mature for decades.

Centuries ago, a private road led from the Castello of the noble Falletti family down to this vineyard. Today, there is no longer a road here, but a path through a jungle-like thicket – biodiversity as Luca Roagna understands it. When the family acquired these seven hectares in Castiglione Falletto in 1989, a long-cherished dream came true: a Barolo vineyard on a par with the legendary Pajè estates in Barbaresco. Even more: a monopoly. The vineyard lies on the south-eastern slope below the Rocche di Castiglione, protected by the rock above and four hectares of forest with a stream from the Bussia di Monforte below. The soils tell the oldest story of Barolo – marine sediments from the Helvetia, the geological formation shared only by Castiglione Falletto, Serralunga and Monforte. Six micro-parcels are differentiated by alternating layers of white limestone, grey and blue marl, interspersed with iron. The oldest Nebbiolo vines date back to 1937.

Sweet red berries, flowers, mint, spices and aniseed are uniquely interwoven in this generous wine. The wine gains volume and depth in the glass as the flavours build to an unexpected crescendo. This is an exceptionally well-balanced and finesse-rich Brunello full of character, freshness and originality. The tannins remain firm, but there is enough density and complexity to the fruit that opening a bottle, even at a young age, gives no cause for regret. SUPERIORE.DE

1,900 bottles of this 0.8 ha Cabernet Franc single vineyard "Campo di Tenaglia" (at an altitude of approx. 550m, mainly limestone) reach the specialised trade and the menus of the best restaurants worldwide. Impenetrable, dark wine with a bouquet of flint, crushed minerals and some chalk. The texture is rich and opulent, but always supple with a hint of minerality. Campo di Tenaglia is one of the juiciest Cabernet Francs we have ever had in the glass. Beautiful, long final and certainly great Storage potential. SUPERIORE.DE

Only 1,650 bottles of this 1.5 ha Cabernet Franc single vineyard "Campo di Camagi" (mainly quartz and limestone) reach the specialised trade and the menus of the best restaurants worldwide. Campo di Camagi is a very precise and focused wine. The high quality of the Cabernet Franc grape is noticeable here with every sip. Black fruits and spices are in elegant unity here and the full, racy body of this exceptional wine will only fully reveal itself in many years. Please be sure to put this bottle far away! SUPERIORE.DE

The supremely potent Rocche di Castiglione is often referred to as the first "official" cru in the history of Langa (along with Bussia di Prunotto, both of which were released with the 1961 vintage). It confirms itself once again as the great classic of the house with the 2018 edition. Dark fruits, pressed lilac, blood orange, powdered liquorice, balsamic herbs, spices, iron ore and aniseed fit together perfectly like pieces of a puzzle. Then lush and racy on the palate, with silky tannins and a great depth and resonance that will continue to develop with time. SUPERIORE.DE

When Giovanni Massolino founded his winery in Serralunga d'Alba in 1896, he was the first to bring electric light to the village. A pioneer. His grandson Giuseppe, co-founder of the legendary Barolo consortium, continued this tradition – and then came the third generation, Giovanni, Camilla and Renato: they wrote a new chapter in 1985 by bottling Margheria separately for the first time. Today, the brothers Franco and Roberto continue the legacy. Both Oenologistwho understand that great wines are not made, but born. Margheria is located on the western edge of Serralunga's famous ridge, just a stone's throw away from the mythical Vigna Rionda – and yet it is its exact opposite. Where Vigna Rionda promises strength and eternity with its calcareous marl, the Margheria site at 280 metres above sea level plays with a higher admixture of sand in the limestone soil. The result: elegance meets structure, floral notes meet mineral depth. Serralunga shows its accessible side here without sacrificing its typical longevity.

Le Macioche is a jewel of a vineyard with five hectares of vines and a picturesque forester's house surrounded by cypress trees. Cotarellas Riserva from the top 2016 vintage has a lot to offer and is characterised by firm, concentrated tannins and dense fruit. Forest berries, medicinal herbs, cola and potting soil on the nose. On the palate, red plums, dried cherries and lemon juice provide complexity and depth alongside the beautiful fruit centre. This is followed by a full body, perfect fine-grained tannins and a subtle, elegant final. Despite its complexity, this Riserva also displays a certain intensity and rigour. The bottles are numbered, less than 100 magnum bottles were bottled. SUPERIORE.DE

In the seventies, Giovanni Massolino bought Parafada – a coup that he dared to pull off at a time when the economic situation was anything but rosy. But Giovanni was the kind of person who favours vision over caution. The site, whose name comes from the hamlet of the same name, lies 320 metres above sea level in that famous amphitheatre between Lazzarito and Gabutti, perfectly exposed to the south. A ridge location that offers natural protection from wind and storms – as if nature itself had understood that something special should grow here.

Every year, Barolo Via Nuova proves anew why the blending of several vineyards was the favoured method of Barolo producers until the 1960s, when the fascination with single-vineyard wines began. Its grapes come from the Liste, Terlo, Baudana, Gabutti, Ravera di Monforte and Mosconi cru sites.

In the early hours of the morning, when the Maestrale is still gently caressing the hills between Bolgheri and Bibbona and the first light kisses the red earth, the true essence of what Massimo Piccin has been moulding as his life's work for over two decades is revealed. Sapaio – named after the ancient Tuscan grape variety Sapaia – is more than just a wine. It is the manifesto of a visionary who came here in 1999 as a Venetian engineer and created a kingdom of the senses from eight hectares of bare earth. The name bears a crown as a logo, a tribute to the nobility of wine and the daily devotion of those who leave their souls between the vines and barrels. Since 2015, Sapaio has deliberately been labelled Toscana IGT, not out of embarrassment but out of conviction: Because the best grapes grow beyond the administrative borders of Bolgheri, in Bibbona, where ferruginous red clay soils provide a minerality that no decree in the world can regulate.

The grapes for this remarkably Burgundian Gran Selezione come from the single vineyard of the same name in a 2.25-hectare Chianti Classico vineyard, which was planted in 1971 with a density of 3,400 vines per hectare and is south-facing on old terraces. Riecine has leased these plots since the 1980s, and in the 2019 debut vintage, the winery succeeded in acquiring this site, which is one of the best terroirs in the Chianti Classico region. The bottles are numbered and around 4,000 bottles and 50 magnums are bottled each year.

Barolo Via Nuova is a blend of fruit from different vineyards in several villages of the appellation. Packed with cherry and raspberry flavours, it is both supple and firmly structured. Shows notes of earth, minerals, eucalyptus and aniseed that give it volume and structure, while the muscular tannins still have the upper hand on the finish at first. Deep and rich as it progresses, but never heavy. We find a hint of oak sweetness, but this only adds to the exotic beauty of the wine. Via Nuova 2021 is a wine of exceptional harmony, purity and finesse with an eternally long finish. SUPERIORE.DE

With the exception of 2016 and 2019, the last eight years in the region around Montalcino have been characterised by warm and dry conditions. For this reason, Il Poggione has started to prioritise irrigation for emergencies (which is becoming more and more of a necessity in the south-west of Montalcino) and is looking for a better balance in the higher vineyards. This is not the only reason why Il Poggione is one of the top producers every year, with an extremely fair value.

Millecento Riserva from the dream vintage 2016 unfolds in the glass with hints of mocha, sweet cherry and plum, tobacco and a touch of fresh mint. There is a sense of opulence, but also of sophistication, as the texture of ripe red fruits with salty mineral notes glides across the palate, taking on a sweet herbal note towards the end. It finishes with a layer of fine tannins and acidic citrus, while tart wild berries and a hint of exotic spices linger. This wine still has several years of development ahead of it, but its refined blend of richness and elegance can already be experienced today. SUPERIORE.DE

The grapes for the profound Le Vigne come from Baudana in Serralunga d'Alba (for the power), Villero in Castiglione Falletto (for the precision), Vignane in Barolo (for the purity of the flavours) and Merli in Novello (for the fullness of the fruit). It opens wide with aromas of fresh red fruit and a delicate spicy note. Very intense on the palate, remarkably elegant, fine-grained tannins, extremely clear, structured and long. SUPERIORE.DE

There are wines that exist and those that are virtually unavailable. Piano delle Colombe belongs to the second category – a "phantom wine" made from 750 bottles, a myth made of glass and time, a dream that only materialises for a select few. In the most sublime parcel of the prestigious Contrada San Lorenzo, on just 4,000 square metres of volcanic soil, Giuseppe Russo has created a wine that blurs the boundaries between reality and legend. The name tells a story that is as poetic as the wine itself: Girolamo, Giuseppe's father, claimed with a mischievous smile that the pigeons – "colombe" – always came to this small, flat area of the contrada to steal the very best grapes. "They have better taste than we do," he used to say as he watched the little thieves make their selection among the ancient Alberello vines. What began as a family anecdote became the name of a wine that is now one of the most sought-after treasures in the whole of Etna.