Roberto Voerzio

Some layers are loud, others whisper. Cerequio is one of the whisperers – and if you don't listen carefully, you will miss the subtle nuances that make this cru one of the most enigmatic in the entire Barolo universe. Surrounded by its most prestigious neighbours La Morra, Cerequio lies at an altitude of 300 metres above a foundation of white clay and bluish marl. Roberto Voerzio likes to compare his Cerequio wines with Haut-Brion – an unusual comparison for a Barolo, but anyone who tastes this wine will understand the allusion: it is about that ethereal elegance that unfolds rather than imposes itself. What distinguishes Cerequio from the more powerful crus is its almost floating lightness. Voerzio speaks of "round, elegant, ethereal" – attributes that are rarely associated with Barolo. But this is precisely where the magic lies: Cerequio combines density with finesse, concentration with airiness. The 24-month maturation in French barriques and large barrels has given the wine depth without stifling its youthful grace.

Undeniably the most powerful and robust Barolo in Roberto Voerzio's top range is the Rocche dell'Annunziata from one of the best sites of La Morra. For us, it is a benchmark in determination and forward-driven dynamism. Wonderfully coordinated fruit and spice components, a great wealth of impressions and precisely drawn beauty characterise this exceptional Barolo. Intensely fragrant nose of plums, pickled cherries and lots of raspberry, rounded off by cedar, spices and tobacco. In its depth, complexity and determination it does not come to rest, even 24 hours after opening the bottle the connoisseur is still surprised with fine notes of mint and balsam and this immensely expressive and charming wine shows no signs of ageing. SUPERIORE.DE

Extremely focussed Barolo in a class of its own. Precisely defined fruit notes of wild berries, blackcurrant, rosehip and crushed slate. Firm on the palate with a very well-defined core, softly enveloped and cushioned by a very relaxed texture. Its elegance and extreme length, together with its well-balanced power, put it on a par with the Brunate from the same house. SUPERIORE.DE

Barolo La Serra emerges from the glass with a playful bouquet of dark red fruits, tar, smoke, liquorice, spices and new leather. The high-pitched notes of rose petals, which are typical of this vineyard near La Morra, are complemented by fine strawberry and raspberry notes and, in this wonderfully elegant and subtle overall package, result in an attractive, extremely elegant Barolo that is hard to beat in terms of finesse, purity and length. SUPERIORE.DE

Between the big names of the La Morra crus – cerequio to the west, Fossati to the north – lies La Serra, a location that is often underestimated and therefore fascinating. While Brunate impresses with its geological force, La Serra plays a more subtle game: poorer, stony soils force the Nebbiolo roots down to a depth of ten metres. What sounds like a tough battle actually gives the wine an unconventional elegance – fresh, spacious, precise. Roberto Voerzio cultivates his parcel with the same radicalism as in all his crus: extreme planting density, rigorous yield reduction, spontaneous fermentation without any intervention. But what comes out of this vineyard is clearly different from the virile intensity of Brunate.

Barolo La Serra emerges from the glass with a playful bouquet of dark red fruits, tar, smoke, liquorice, spices and new leather. The high-pitched notes of rose petals, which are typical of this vineyard near La Morra, are complemented by fine strawberry and raspberry notes and, in this wonderfully elegant and subtle overall package, result in an attractive, extremely elegant Barolo that is hard to beat in terms of finesse, purity and length. SUPERIORE.DE

Barolo Brunate is a breathtaking expression of great complexity and finesse. The wine has a lively garnet red colour with a balanced and intense bouquet: sage, mint, undergrowth, tar, tobacco and liquorice nuances give Brunate a striking aromatic complexity. At the heart of the bouquet, as well as on the palate, there is plenty of dark fruit, including blackcurrants and plums. Gains breadth with time in the glass and the already fine tannins will certainly become even smoother with further ageing in the bottle. A Barolo with real presence and stature and for us the most accessible Barolo in Voerzio's exceptional collection! SUPERIORE.DE

Undisputedly the most powerful and robust Barolo in Roberto Voerzio's top range is the Rocche dell'Annunziata from one of the best vineyards in La Morra. For us, it is a benchmark in determination and forward momentum. Wonderfully harmonised fruit and spice components, a great wealth of impressions and precisely drawn beauty characterise this exceptional Barolo. Intensely fragrant nose of plums, preserved cherries and lots of raspberries, rounded off with cedar, spices and tobacco. Its depth, complexity and determination never rest; even 24 hours after opening the bottle, the connoisseur is still surprised by fine notes of mint and balsam and this incredibly expressive and charming wine shows no signs of ageing. SUPERIORE.DE

Extremely focussed Barolo in a class of its own. Precisely defined fruit notes of wild berries, blackcurrant, rosehip and crushed slate. Firm on the palate with a very well-defined core, softly enveloped and cushioned by a very relaxed texture. Its elegance and extreme length, together with its well-balanced power, put it on a par with the Brunate from the same house. SUPERIORE.DE

Barolo Cerequio unfolds its cornucopia of cherries, ripe red berries, violets, leather and tar only after many minutes in the glass. Firm and powerful on the palate - shows an impressive and firm structure, yet the wine remains delicate, mineral and full of finesse throughout. It is perhaps the most balanced of Roberto Voerzio's top wines, and even if it appears quite accessible at a young age, it will only reveal its true potential and class in many years. SUPERIORE.DE

There are wines that take their time to seduce, and there are those that immediately know how to charm. Fossati belongs to the second category – not because this Barolo lacks depth or structure, but because it presents its qualities with an elegance reminiscent of the shop windows of noble Florentine boutiques. Located to the west of La Morra, at an altitude of 350 metres, the vines rest on stony, light soils with layers of clay. The roots dig up to ten metres deep – a silent struggle that gives the wine its distinctive aromatic vibrancy. Roberto Voerzio describes his Fossati wines as deeply coloured, with distinctive tannins and intense aromas.

There are sites in the Barolo universe that are not simply vineyards – they are geological statements. Brunate is one of these rare terroirs whose names alone elicit reverent silence. Situated between La Morra and Barolo, on calcareous marl soils with an east-south-east exposure, this cru site produces wines of archaic power and finesse at the same time. Actually a paradox ... Roberto Voerzio has been cultivating his plot in Brunate since the late 1980s with a radicalism that is unrivalled: 8,000 vines per hectare, only 500 grams of grapes per vine, aggressive yield reduction through green harvest. What sounds like self-mortification is in fact an uncompromising philosophy of quality. Spontaneous fermentation in stainless steel takes between 10 and 30 days, after which the wine matures for 24 months in used barriques and large barrels, followed by eight months in steel and a further eight in the bottle. Each phase is a deliberate wait for the right moment.

Barolo Brunate is a breathtaking expression of great complexity and finesse. The wine has a lively garnet red colour with a balanced and intense bouquet: sage, mint, undergrowth, tar, tobacco and liquorice nuances give Brunate a striking aromatic complexity. At the heart of the bouquet, as well as on the palate, there is plenty of dark fruit, including blackcurrants and plums. Gains breadth with time in the glass and the already fine tannins will certainly become even smoother with further ageing in the bottle. A Barolo with real presence and stature and for us the most accessible Barolo in Voerzio's exceptional collection! SUPERIORE.DE

Barolo Cerequio unfolds its cornucopia of cherries, ripe red berries, violets, leather and tar only after many minutes in the glass. Firm and powerful on the palate - shows an impressive and firm structure, yet the wine remains delicate, mineral and full of finesse throughout. It is perhaps the most balanced of Roberto Voerzio's top wines, and even if it appears quite accessible at a young age, it will only reveal its true potential and class in many years. SUPERIORE.DE

Undisputedly the most powerful and robust Barolo in Roberto Voerzio's top range is the Rocche dell'Annunziata from one of the best vineyards in La Morra. For us, it is a benchmark in determination and forward momentum. Wonderfully harmonised fruit and spice components, a great wealth of impressions and precisely drawn beauty characterise this exceptional Barolo. Intensely fragrant nose of plums, preserved cherries and lots of raspberries, rounded off with cedar, spices and tobacco. Its depth, complexity and determination never rest; even 24 hours after opening the bottle, the connoisseur is still surprised by fine notes of mint and balsam and this incredibly expressive and charming wine shows no signs of ageing. SUPERIORE.DE

If Brunate is a geological statement and Cerequio whispers, then Rocche dell'Annunziata roars – but with aristocratic restraint. This site, whose name appears in connection with viticulture as early as the Middle Ages, is considered one of the most sought-after subzones of La Morra. Full southern exposure, geologically young soils of Sant'Agata marl with sand, limestone and an exceptionally high proportion of silt – an element that links Rocche dell'Annunziata with the legendary Cannubi Boschis. Roberto Voerzio calls this his most important site, not only because of its perfect exposure to the sun, but also because of the paradoxical combination of raw power and disarming elegance. Voerzio himself calls Rocche dell'Annunziata his "monolith" – and yet it is not a rigid block, but a wine full of inner tension. The 24-month maturation in used barriques and large barrels has lent it complexity without taming its youthful vitality. In the endless final, notes of dark fruit, liquorice, chocolate and a mineral precision remain, giving the wine its backbone.

Roberto Voerzio is a master of his trade. The crowning glory, however, is his Riserva Case Nere, aged for 10 years in large oak barrels, which he brings to the market just at the beginning of a long (incipient) phase of drinking maturity. Dried autumn leaves, macerated cherries, tobacco, spices and liquorice lend this exceptional Barolo an impressive complexity and deep nuances that only gradually unfold in the glass. Sweet, silky and polished on the palate, already full of balance and harmony. There is something mysterious about this Riserva that is bound to captivate any connoisseur. After some time, the tannins emerge and the wine takes on a much more virile personality and you realise that it will take many more years for this wine to reveal all its secrets ... SUPERIORE.DE

2016 was a great year in La Morra. Classic, precise, characterised by an acidity and a tannic structure that describes Barolo in its most long-lived form. As always, Roberto was one of the first in the zone to harvest, because extreme yield reduction on densely planted vines produces earlier ripeness, and filled the cellar. Then he waited. Not two years, not five. But ten. Case Nere Riserva 10 Anni first appeared from the 2003 vintage, released in 2013. Since then, Voerzio has followed a single rhythm: 24 months in Burgundian, dense-grained wood (20 to 25 per cent new wood), then six to seven years of bottle ageing in the cellar under his supervision before the wine leaves the estate. No exception, no compromise. This means that anyone who buys the 2016 today will receive a Barolo that has matured for two years in wood and eight years in the bottle – and which Voerzio is only now releasing.

If you want to find out what the most popular grape variety in Piedmont is capable of, you should try this exceptional Barbera from Roberto Voerzio, which is only available in magnum bottles. Just 400 grams of concentrated grapes are harvested per plant. After vinification, the wine matures for 30 months in large oak barrels.

The Torriglione vineyard is a stone's throw away from Annunziata, and the eponymous single-vineyard Barolo is not only released two years later than the other crus of the house, but it is also exclusively filled in magnum bottles. It shows its very own character first and foremost with a noble restraint and caginess, and its density and complexity only give a taste of what awaits Barolo lovers here after a few minutes of aeration. Here, everything is in its place and there is more than enough of it: freshness, fruit, acidity, tannin, and the whole paired with a finesse that is unparalleled and that one would rather expect in Burgundy or Etna. A wine that indisputably belongs to those that you must have drunk at least once in your life! SUPERIORE.DE

Over the years, Roberto Voerzio has changed his winemaking to a gentler extraction and reduced the influence of French oak, making the purity of the fruit very expressive. What is remarkable about all his wines is his non-interventionist approach. In addition, up to two-thirds of each bunch is cut away in the vineyard to ensure even ripening of the remaining grapes. Roberto also chooses different bottle formats to present each wine as accurately as possible.

Roberto Voerzio has a clear idea of how this wine should be drunk. He produces the Torriglione exclusively in magnums – not because the production is too small for standard bottles, but because he wants it that way. His own reasoning: These wines are "made for warm celebrations with old friends and an infatuation with discovery." The Magnum is not a format, it is a programme. And the format is not without consequence: a magnum ages more slowly than a 0.Liters bottle because the ratio of surface area to wine volume is more favourable. The tertiary flavours develop more evenly, the fruit remains present for longer and the tannins have more time to interweave. Voerzio has thus given this wine a different future than all the other crus of the house.

350 – that's not a number, it's a commitment to transparency. Roberto Voerzio gives this Barolo a number as a name because he hides nothing behind labels: 350 grams of grapes per vine, the documented yield of this wine. Anyone familiar with the house will know that Voerzio routinely works below 300 grams in his best crus, such as Brunate. The RV350 is therefore not an extreme case of downward pressure – it is a statement about how extreme yield reduction is a matter of course here. No wine from the house leaves La Morra without this conviction. The philosophy behind it is not spectacle, but consistency. Voerzio recognised early on what many only understood later: that quality is not created in the cellar, but in the vineyard, not through intervention, but through abstention. Natural yeasts, fermentation in steel, careful malolactic maturation, ageing in large containers. Sulphites below 50 per cent of the legally permitted amount. No filtration, no fining.

La Morra is the softest, most flowery municipality in the Barolo region – that's not a cliché, it's geology. The limestone-rich, marl-like soils of this high altitude give the Nebbiolo a fineness of tannin and a floral aroma that is not found in the sandier sites of Serralunga or Castiglione Falletto. Roberto Voerzio has understood these characteristics better than almost anyone else – and has built up his entire business on La Morra since 1986. The Barolo del Comune di La Morra brings together four of his most important single vineyards in one wine: Cerequio, La Serra, Fossati and Case Nere. None of these parcels stands back – each brings its own character, its own texture, its own flavour. The assemblage is not created to hide imperfections, but to fully reveal the image of the commune. 12 months in tonneaux, then bottle ageing. Natural yeasts, no filtration, no intervention.