Wines from Emilia-Romagna

In 2010, Marco Cirese, grandson of Noelia Ricci, started a project within Tenuta Pandolfa: nine hectares of the best plots, a radical focus on Sangiovese, back to the origins. The label is adorned with a wasp – the insect that lives in the vineyard like no other. The vines are planted at an altitude of 250 to 300 metres, on ochre-coloured clay soils with limestone marl, in 2002. Spontaneous fermentation, 18 days of maceration, then six months in stainless steel – without clarification, without filtration. Purism as a principle.

Christian Bellei has dedicated his life to precision. For generations, the family in Bomporto has been producing excellent sparkling wines with the meticulousness of a watchmaker – everything controlled, everything deliberate, everything calculated. And then: OOPS. Mi è scappata la bollicina. The bubble that crept in uninvited – and then just stayed. 100% Pinot Nero from the alluvial soils of Secchia. What was meant to be a still red wine – or at least that's the story –developed a life of its own in the cellar. The perlage was not corrected. It became a style-forming programme.

The highest parcels of the estate, between 200 and 275 metres, ochre-coloured limestone soils, reduced yields of just 5,000 kilos per hectare – this is where the Riserva is created. While the normal Pandolfo remains on the skins for 14 days, here it is 22 days. Then 18 months in large Slavonian oak barrels, followed by at least eight months of ageing in the bottle. Deep ruby red in colour with violet reflections, which will mature to garnet over the years. The nose is layered: dark berry fruits, stewed plums, tobacco and leather, with fine herbs and sweet spices on top. The palate is dense and full-bodied, with tannins that are present but never intrusive. The complexity unfolds over several levels, the final is long and reminiscent of everything the nose has promised. A Sangiovese that shows what Romagna can be if you give it time – and proves that Riserva level does not necessarily mean Riserva prices. SUPERIORE.DE

The first alcoholic fermentation of the must takes place in steel tanks on the fine lees at a controlled temperature and after a waiting period of at least six months, the wine is bottled. The bottles remain at a constant temperature of 12°C so that the wine can undergo its second fermentation and mature on its own yeasts, which remain at the bottom of the bottle as a light sediment (note: it is not filtered!).

Opposites attract – here they become a principle. Cristina Geminiani, whose feel for terroir is honed not least by daily dialogue with her husband Alessandro Masnaghetti, has created a wine that celebrates contradiction with Antitesi: Merlot meets Sangiovese, 60 to 40, two vineyards whose soils and exposures could not be more different. And a vinification process that treats the two varieties separately – the Merlot classically in steel tanks, the Sangiovese dried using the appassimento method. The result is not a compromise, but a synthesis.

Trentasei means thirty-six. This Lambrusco spends at least this many months on the lees – in the bottle, at a constant 12°C, according to the Metodo Classico. Christian Bellei is not a winemaker who takes the easy way out. The idea of vinifying Lambrusco di Sorbara according to the Metodo Classico is a conscious commitment: that this grape variety should be – delicate, acidic, with a structural elegance that makes it unique among Lambrusco clones – has the potential to deal with Champagne methodology. 100% Sorbara from the alluvial soils of Secchia, hand-picked in 15-kilogram boxes, gentle pressing, first fermentation in steel, then at least six months waiting time before bottle fermentation. Rémuage, dégorgement, dosage: 5 g/litre. Everything as in Épernay – except that the grapes come from Bomporto.

Fiumana di Predappio – sangiovese has had its home here since the Middle Ages. The estate's lowest vineyards between 80 and 150 metres provide the grapes for the Federico, named after the family's long-time employee. Fermentation and nine months of ageing take place 70% in stainless steel and 30% in oak wood – enough structure without masking the fruit. Bright ruby red colour. The nose literally leaps out of the glass: fresh cherries, raspberries, a hint of herbs and violets. Lean and juicy on the palate, with fine tannins that invite you to take another sip. A charming Sangiovese that does not make you ponder, but is a pleasure to drink – uncomplicated in the best sense of the word, certified organic and exactly what an everyday wine should be. SUPERIORE.DE

South Tyrol's Gewürztraminer has some top-class competition here: this unique white wine is made from one hundred per cent Albana grapes, 20% of which is only harvested as a late harvest after botrytis infestation in November. Only 2,800 bottles are sold.

GROSSO is a Blanc de Noirs produced using the classic Champagne method and matures for 24 months on the fine lees. Delicate pink colour and a fine, persistent perlage. Crisp bouquet of violets, citrus peel, nectarine and wild strawberry. On the palate with a nice tang, very straightforward flavour of red berries. Very well balanced, it prances into a respectable finish with a finely spiced and impressive freshness. SUPERIORE.DE

Here is one of the most serious and at the same time most exciting sparkling wines that can be made from the Sorbara variety! Pale to dusky pink in colour with a fine foam and accentuated, persistent perlage. The bouquet is almost magical and yet very distinguished, with hints of raspberry and wild strawberry, which is what makes a top-class Lambrusco, but still seems to be an unattainable goal for many local winegrowers. A fine acidity on the palate, with delicate, dry bitter notes and an exciting brightening of fruity tones of wild strawberry and pomegranate. The overall impression is bone-dry and the bottled dream of a Lambrusco produced using the champagne method, which is unrivalled in the wine landscape. SUPERIORE.DE

Produced in just 6,000 bottles per vintage, Godenza from the vineyard of the same name undergoes spontaneous fermentation with indigenous yeasts, followed by temperature-controlled maceration in stainless steel tanks. After malolactic fermentation, it then matures for 12 months in cement vats and at least 9 months in the bottle. Made from 100% Sangiovese grapes, it is characterised by its complex and open bouquet with aromas of small red berries and spices. On the palate, it is firm and clear with a wonderful balance between acidity and ripe flavours and has a very respectable, slightly salty and spicy finish. SUPERIORE.DE

Cristina Geminiani is one of the leading figures behind the revitalisation of Romagna DOC. In 1985, she began making wine on her grandfather's estate, Fattoria Zerbina. Her wines have personality and technical precision. The vineyards are planted as bush vines in the Marzeno subzone. The Pietramora has an elegant, restrained nose of dark plums, black cherries, dried roses, cocoa and tobacco. On the palate, it displays rich and intense fruit with grippy tannins balanced by zesty acidity, with a lingering, savoury finish. SUPERIORE.DE

Over the years, Marzieno has developed its own personality and, above all, its own credibility, making it, according to critics, one of the few red wines from the Ravenna region that can compete with the best Italian red wines of its kind. It presents itself as a multi-layered and fresh Sangiovese with small amounts of Cabernet, Syrah and Merlot, which give it depth. In its dynamic flavour with a long finish, it relies above all on the substance of its abundant, elegant tannins and very serious fruit. SUPERIORE.DE

When a wine is named after the founder and mastermind of what is probably the most famous and popular winery in the Modena region, then you should take a closer look, or even better, reach for the bottle. This exceptional sparkling wine is produced using the blanc de noirs method, i.e. a white spumante from red grapes - certainly not an everyday occurrence in the Lambrusco world.

There is one decision in the cellar that says it all: no dosage. Zero grams of sugar after dégorgement – no equalisation, no softening, no correction. What goes into the bottle must stand on its own. Christian Bellei makes this decision at La Prima Volta consciously and anew every time: Dosaggio Zero is an attitude. 100% Lambrusco di Sorbara from the alluvial soils of Secchia. Only the Mosto Fiore – the first, purest part of the gentle pressing – is fermented in steel at a controlled temperature. Bottle fermentation takes place in the spring after the harvest according to the metodo classico, followed by at least 36 months on the lees at a constant 12°C. Rémuage, dégorgement – and instead of the liqueur d'expédition, the same wine is returned to the bottle. Nothing else.

Here comes the third vintage of Zerbina's single-vineyard Sangiovese, with which the winery once again proves in a very small edition (< 1,000 bottles) once again proves what great Sangiovese Romagna can produce. Dark fruity, full nose with a cornucopia of dark berries and hints of forest floor, tar and white ash. Firm on the palate, enormously complex, the concentrated fruit gradually opens up with further air and a Sangiovese work of art is revealed that could not be more typical, pure and at the same time more complex. A great compliment! SUPERIORE.DE