Wine

Pinot Noir is the most demanding grape variety in the world. It forgives nothing – no wrong soil, no climate that is too warm, no impatient hand in the cellar. It has found its place in Terlan: Since the middle of the 19th century, Pinot Noir has thrived in the medium-high sites of the Monticol zone, at 450–760 metres, on light, weathered porphyry soils, where downdraughts provide cooling even at the height of summer. Rudi Kofler has long since said the decisive sentence: "The older vineyards produce a well-structured and, above all, elegant Pinot Noir." Elegance is not a marketing term here – it is the logical consequence of the location, soil and ripening process.

"Le Merle" is named after the Merlot-loving blackbirds that compete with the harvest workers during the grape harvest. Eleonora and Elena Charrère made a conscious decision to cultivate a variety of international origin, Merlot, which is very rare in the region, in order to challenge the terroir and create a wine of great consistency and richness.

There are wines that define an appellation. And there are wines that show where an appellation can go. The Gran Selezione from Lilliano belongs to the second category. When the Chianti Classico producers created the new top of the quality pyramid in 2010, there was a great deal of scepticism: is there really a need for another category above the Riserva? Lilliano answered this question with deeds rather than words. While other estates defined their Gran Selezione with an international use of wood and concentrated opulence, Lilliano remained true to its line: tradition, terroir, typicity. The Gran Selezione comes exclusively from the two best single vineyards of the Tenuta – piagge and Casina, both situated at an altitude of around 300 metres, both characterised by the calcareous Alberese soils that make Castellina in Chianti one of the most mineral terroirs in the entire appellation. Piagge is south-facing, fully exposed to the sun, and produces Sangiovese of concentration and vigour. Casina, on the other hand, exposed to the east-south-east, produces Colorino and Sangiovese of elegance and aromatic finesse. Together they produce a cuvée of 90% Sangiovese and 5% each of Colorino and Merlot – an assemblage that seeks perfection within the rules rather than innovation.

There are stories that only the terroir can tell – and Roccato is one of them. What began in 1988 as a visionary experiment, an equal marriage of Sangiovese and Cabernet Sauvignon, developed into a legend of the Tuscan Renaissance. In 2015, Sergio Zingarelli took the decisive step. Based on decades of experience that the terroir speaks louder than the grape, the new Roccato was created: a single-varietal Cabernet Sauvignon from the "Poggio alle Pecchie" vineyard planted in 1996. A paradox of nature – a Bordeaux grape variety that actually breathes Tuscan soul.

Feudi di San Gregorio's DUBL project was born in 2004 from an awareness of the great richness of the autochthonous vines of the Irpinia region and the desire to open up new horizons for them: as a Metodo Classico Spumante or by means of the famous Méthode Champenoise. An advisor was quickly found for this - none other than Anselme Selosse, who is known for his champagnes and his feeling for the particularities of the vines and vineyards.

Vergine – this is not a style statement, this is a philosophy. No cooked must, no sweetening, no flavour additives. Just wine, alcohol and the quiet labour of time in oak wood. What ends up in the bottle is the result of radical reduction – and therein lies the greatness of this category. The 2000 vintage – then still young in the barrels of Pellegrino's historic winery in the heart of Marsala – spent more than a decade in large oak barrels of between 30 and 80 hectolitres. No haste, no intervention. The oxidation process is slow, controlled and precise. Grillo, Catarratto and Inzolia from the westernmost tip of Sicily – soils over which the salt of the nearby Stagnone lagoon still lingers in the air.

An idiosyncratic wine with character: Paolo Meroi's Ribolla Gialla comes from high-altitude plots around Buttrio, where cool nights and limestone-rich soils preserve the freshness of the grape variety. Unlike many wines from the region, Meroi's wine is not matured in steel tanks, but partly in used wood - a careful, finely balanced process that adds texture and depth without masking the varietal character. Brilliant golden yellow in the glass. Pear, yellow stone fruit, lime blossom, citrus zest and a hint of hazelnut on the nose. The palate is full-bodied, silky and delicately melting, supported by fresh acidity and subtle spice. The finish is long, cool and salty-mineral. A modern interpretation of the indigenous grape variety - focussed, elegant and absolutely harmonious. SUPERIORE.DE

On the northern slopes of Montalcino, where the cool forest breezes of Monte Amiata meet the warming influences of the Tyrrhenian Sea, lies one of Tuscany's best-kept secrets. Since 1953, when Bramante Abbruzzese returned to the land of his ancestors, Valdicava has been producing wines of an intensity and finesse that few estates can match. Today, his grandson Vincenzo continues the legacy. A man who prefers to be out among the vines rather than in the office and whose demand for perfection is legendary. The Rosso di Montalcino 2022 is made from the same select Sangiovese Grosso grapes that are also used for the world-famous Brunelli. At an altitude of 300 metres, in the coolest areas of the appellation, the vines thrive in a mixture of clay, sand and limestone – soils that produce fruit of exceptional intensity. Since the end of the 1980s, Vincenzo has completely dispensed with chemicals and practised biodynamic cultivation, allowing each grape to express the pure essence of its terroir.

Poggio Anticos Lemartine 2021 combines elegance and depth in an impressive balance. The cuvée of Sangiovese and Cabernet Sauvignon matured partly in French oak and retains a precise freshness despite its structure. The 2021 vintage benefited from a moderately warm climate with cool nights, which allowed for slow maturation and great aromatic clarity. Very nuanced on the palate, with dark fruit, fine spice and a hint of graphite - a wine of subtle power and Tuscan nobility. SUPERIORE.DE

Bordeaux grandeur meets South Tyrolean clarity: Mumelter Cabernet epitomises this encounter in its purest form. Named after the south-facing Mumelterhof farm near Bolzano, where weathered porphyry soils and a sub-Mediterranean microclimate at an altitude of 330 metres allow the international varieties Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc to develop to their full potential. This cuvée of two Bordeaux classics combines the best of both worlds: the structure and power of Cabernet Sauvignon with the elegance and finesse of Cabernet Franc.

"La Firma" - "The signature". The names of Gerardo Giuratrabocchetti's wines are reminiscent of his father's world as a notary. La Firma is a single-varietal Aglianico that matures in natural caves made of volcanic tuff, carats and French oak barrels. Beautiful ruby red colour with bright violet reflections. Complex bouquet with aromas of small black berries, liquorice and hay. Powerful and very harmonious on the palate, characterised by velvety tannins and a long, balsamic finish. Great ageing potential! SUPERIORE.DE

In 2002, Benanti dared to do the unthinkable: a Metodo Classico from pure Carricante – the first ever bottle fermentation from Etna from this noble indigenous grape variety. What was then an experiment is now a reference: hardly any other Sicilian sparkling wine comes close to the perlage quality of this house. The grapes come from the eastern and southern slopes of the volcano, where 20 to 60-year-old vines are rooted between 700 and 850 metres in mineral-rich volcanic sands – partly as traditional Alberello, partly on the trellis. Hand-picked, gentle whole-cluster pressing, fermentation at 16–18 °C in stainless steel. The wine rests on the fine lees until late spring, followed by bottle fermentation with selected yeasts. After 24 months on the lees, disgorgement and dosage take place; a further three months of rest complete the maturation.

The combination of two such different personalities as Sangiovese and Cabernet Sauvignon blend brilliantly in Grifi, giving this wine a unique character. The Cabernet gives the wine an extra kick of depth in the mid-palate as well as a tannic backbone that gives the wine plenty of persistence and energy.

Pas Dosé – here, the dosage that is normally added after disgorging, which determines not only the sugar content but also the style of the bottle-fermented sparkling wine, is omitted. Instead, the volume naturally lost during the years of ageing in the bottle is replaced by other wines from the house, which have no further influence on the sugar content. The result is an extremely dry sparkling wine that is by no means lacking in volume, character and finely modelled nuances of flavour.

The "Sassorosso" vineyard is located on a rocky promontory that is separated from the rest of the mountain and has been almost completely eroded by the glacier over the centuries. It is visually characterised by the unmistakable red colour of the ferrous inclusions in the rock. The overlying shallow soil layer consists of clay and sand and lies on friable, metamorphic rock into which the roots can penetrate. The unmistakably elegant and mineral character of the terroir is therefore particularly evident in this Nebbiolo.

Above the cellar walls of Passopisciaro lives a woman whose stories are older than the centuries-old vines she can see from her window every day. Nerina Russo, mother of Giuseppe and widow of the late Girolamo, is more than just the namesake of this extraordinary white wine – she is the living heart of a family that has given Etna all its devotion. At harvest time, when their famous dishes mingle the flavours of the kitchen with those of the fermenting grapes, it becomes clear that wines are made here out of love, not just passion. Giuseppe has created a monument to his father with the winery, but has dedicated the wine that perhaps best expresses the essence of his family to his mother. Nerina embodies the soul of the Sicilian white wine tradition – a harmonious union of all the autochthonous grape varieties of Etna, which once thrived together in the mixed vineyards of the Contrade. Seventy per cent Carricante forms the backbone, while thirty per cent Catarratto, Inzolia, Grecanico, Minnella and Coda di Volpe provide the multi-layered complexity that can only come from centuries-old winemaking wisdom.

Brò is a white wine from sustainable cultivation that is hard to beat in terms of freshness, elegance and enjoyment. The grapes come from the clay and limestone soils near Fiumana di Predappio. Pale straw yellow in colour with greenish reflections. On the nose, a captivating blend of crushed stones, spiced orange peel, dried apricot and peach, mixed with herbal elements. On the characterful palate, it is complex, juicy and very drinkable with its freshness and lightness. SUPERIORE.DE

Monica Raspi remembers: "I took my first steps as a winemaker in the Omino vineyard. The grapes grown here produce the wine that is the absolute benchmark for my very personal interpretation of the Sangiovese grape."

L'amore mio – my love. Rarely does a wine carry its character so openly in its name. This rosé spumante is Benanti's declaration of love for the Nerello Mascalese – the noble red grape variety that is otherwise synonymous with elegant red wines with a Burgundian grace on Etna. As Metodo Classico, it reveals a completely different, no less enchanting side. The grapes come from the south and south-east slopes of the volcano, where the vines are rooted between 700 and 750 metres in mineral-rich volcanic sands. Hand-picked, whole bunch pressing without destemming, fermentation at 16–18 °C in stainless steel. The base wine rests on the fine lees until late spring, followed by bottle fermentation with selected yeasts. After 24 months on the lees, disgorgement and dosage take place; a further three months of rest complete the maturation.

A classic Franciacorta from the Montenisa vineyards around Calino near Brescia, made from Chardonnay, Pinot Nero and a small proportion of Pinot Bianco. Gently fermented in stainless steel tanks and then matured on the fine lees for around 24 months, it gains elegance and aromatic finesse. Pale straw yellow in the glass with a fine, persistent perlage. Fresh citrus fruits, white peaches, fine brioche notes and a hint of roasted almonds on the nose. Lively and harmonious on the palate, with a creamy texture, fine acidity and a subtle mineral freshness that leads to an elegant, balanced final. A versatile sparkling wine from the Antinori family that shows its class from an aperitif to a refined meal. SUPERIORE.DE

For some years now, Matteo Catania has been holding back a few hundred bottles of his wines in the best vintages in order to offer them to his most loyal importers after a few years. From this "private reserve" comes Neromaccarj 2011, which is now - in spring 2023 - offered in small quantities with 8 years of further bottle ageing quasi in Riserva quality.

There are words that tell more than entire stories. Sgarzon: In the ancient dialect of Campo Rotaliano, it means "young shoot", "sapling" and embodies the essence of youthful vitality and the impetuous vigour of new beginnings. This name is the programme for a Teroldego that revolutionises conventional ideas of this powerful grape variety. Just one kilometre from the famous Morei vineyard as the crow flies, but completely different in character, is the 2.5-hectare Sgarzon vineyard. Here, the Noce River has deposited sandy sediments over thousands of years, creating a cooler, more open microzone. While other Teroldego vineyards are already harvesting their grapes, the Sgarzon berries ripen a week longer – a decisive difference that gives this wine its exceptional finesse.

Between light and shade, between strength and elegance, sometimes only a few hundred metres decide the character of a wine. Less than ten minutes' walk from Sgarzon, but geologically in a different world, lies Morei, "the dark one" in the old Trentino dialect. Here, on the warmer, rockier terrain of Campo Rotaliano, Elisabetta Foradori has been writing another exciting chapter in the Teroldego story since 1984. The name says it all: where Sgarzon embodies youthful freshness, Morei reveals the deep, mineral soul of this extraordinary grape variety. The 2.5-hectare plot rests on the ancient riverbed of the Noce, where thousands of years of erosion have left behind a mosaic of pebbles, sand and dolomite rock. This stony matrix stores the heat of the dolomite sun and releases it to the vines at night – a natural heat reservoir that gives Teroldego its characteristic depth and concentration.