Wine Enthusiast

Poggio San Polo Brunello is a selection of the best grapes from the estate's various vineyard sites. It opens very engagingly with dark fruit, including plenty of black cherry and dark plum, optimally rounded off by a fine balsamic herbal spice and notes of white pepper. The palate has an almost perfect texture, a suppleness and silkiness that is refreshed and carried by a well-proportioned, refined Sangiovese acidity. Dark berry flavours, long, deep and with a very remarkable, slightly mineral final. SUPERIORE.DE

The Fontalloro is a single-varietal Sangiovese that is matured for up to 20 months in new and two-year-old barriques.brilliant ruby colour with a light garnet rim, mineral, woody-fruity aroma of cherry, cedar, blueberry and hazelnut. With aeration, the flavours become increasingly complex and the terroir influence very clear. Compact and very present on the palate with fine-grained tannins and classic proportions. Very high ageing potential and one of the best Sangiovese in central Tuscany every year. SUPERIORE.DE

When Lamole di Lamole acquired this two-hectare cru in 2017, they took on more than just vines – they took on a legacy. The Sangiovese vines, planted in 1994, grow here in the archaic "Alberello Lamolese" style – a bush-trained method that generations of winegrowers have fought to preserve in these rugged highlands and which they have never been willing to give up. This natural terrace lies at an altitude of between 540 and 580 metres, facing south, caressed by the wind and bathed in the purest light. The ancient dry stone walls, built of ochre-coloured Macigno Toscano, absorb the sun's heat during the day and release it back to the vines at night – a dialogue between stone and plant that has continued for centuries. As early as 1800, the geographer Emanuele Repetti noted: "Buon vino di Lamole, lodata campagna" – good wine from Lamole, a much-praised landscape. In 2018, the village was declared a Patrimonio Storico d'Italia. The 2020 vintage – only the third from this vineyard – demonstrates the true potential of Gran Selezione. The grapes undergo visual selection, ferment in 50-hectolitre conical vats using "macerazione differita", and mature initially in the same vats, then in 30-hectolitre oak barrels. The result? A wine that the winemakers themselves describe as lyrical and beguiling.

A little bit of everything, but never too much of a good thing. One of the most complex Nobiles we have ever tasted. Delicate red fruit with a pinch of sweetness and floral aromas, underpinned by a little tobacco and raspberry. Clear cherry flavour on the palate, plus a wonderful spiciness with that subtle sweetness in the background again. A finesse-rich and harmonious final whets the appetite for the next glass. Very successful and full of precision! SUPERIORE.DE

The first vintage was released in 2001. A wine that had no history yet, only a conviction: that the Maremma, with Petit Verdot, Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc, could express something that Tuscany had not yet heard. Twenty years on, with the 2021 vintage, Brancaia takes stock in silence – and has given this particular release the suffix ‘20 anni’. Over two decades, the vines have driven their roots deep into the sandy loam soil of the Maremma. No artificial water – only what the soil stores in winter and releases in summer. The vines have learnt to cope with the heat. The grapes are becoming more concentrated, the tannins finer, the character more distinctive. This is the promise made in 2001 – and which the 2021 vintage fulfils.

With "Capo Martino", Silvio Jermann not only pays tribute to the vineyard of the same name in the municipality of Dolegna del Collio, but also to his father Angelo – and thus to the origins of the family winery. It is a white wine of great cultural depth, a cuvée of indigenous varieties such as Ribolla Gialla, Malvasia Istriana, Picolit and Friulano, complemented by smaller proportions of other traditional varieties. The 2022 vintage was characterised by stable weather conditions with plenty of sunshine, which gave the grapes ripeness and expression – but without losing the typical freshness of the hills around Capo Martino. After the harvest, the grapes are destemmed, gently pressed and fermented spontaneously. Maturation takes place for around a year in large wooden barrels on the fine lees, with each component maturing separately before finally being blended into a cuvée. The result is a wine of quiet complexity and timeless elegance.

Ceretto's entry-level Barbaresco comes from different sites, mostly younger vines from Asili (35%) and the lower part of Bernadot (65%). Bright, elegant ruby red. It has full energy and vivacity and offers excellent persistence and remarkable balance. On the nose, sweet red cherry, mint, pine, liquorice and candied orange peel. Taut and ferruginous on the palate, very juicy, salty, stretches precisely across the tongue, with some pressure, considerable juicy-long finish. After good aeration already impressively accessible when young. SUPERIORE.DE

It was Domizio Cavazza, director of the Royal School of Viticulture in Alba, who gave Barbaresco its name and its claim to fame in 1894. A wine that was to stand up to the more powerful Barolo – finer, accessible earlier, but no less complex. More than a century later, the roles are clearly divided: Barbaresco stands for the elegant side of Nebbiolo, for finesse instead of power, for fragrance instead of darkness. Prunotto has found his answer to this appellation in a single vineyard: Bric Turot. Five hectares at around 200 metres, with an exposure from south-west to south-east, which gives the hill the shape of a natural amphitheatre. The soil – tortonian limestone and marl with veins of sand, rich in magnesium and manganese – is the same foundation on which Gajas Sorì Tildin stands just a few metres away. Not bad terrain then.

On the far north-western edge of the Etna DOC, where the cold reigns and time seems to stand still, lies San Lorenzo – one of the volcano's three holy grails. Here, at an altitude of 750 metres in the municipality of Randazzo, we encounter a geological wonder: a pure elliptical terroir, formed 60,000 years ago by the explosive activity of the Ellittico crater. Marc de Grazia recognised something extraordinary in San Lorenzo – a place of aristocratic purity. Of the hundreds of contrade on Mount Etna, only three possess this unadulterated elliptical heritage: Bocca d'Orzo, Calderara and San Lorenzo. Millennia of lava flows have buried all the older soils, leaving only tiny, precious fragments of these ancient volcanic sands.

The forest literally begins at the vineyard fence: the "Vinea nel Bosco" plot, planted in 2001, lies at an altitude of around 530 metres on the edge of a deciduous forest, which brings mist and coolness in the mornings, whilst the afternoon sun provides sufficient warmth as it filters through the treetops. The soil, composed of Alberese, limestone and clay marl, yields little but what it does produce is highly concentrated. Spontaneous fermentation of the Sangiovese grapes begins in stainless steel, before the young wine matures for 26 months in large, 20-hectolitre wooden casks and is then left to rest in the bottle for at least another year. With an alcohol content of 14.5 per cent, it is full-bodied without feeling heavy – the 2020 vintage yielded a total of 2,412 bottles and 108 magnums.

Vinea Vecchia truly lives up to its name: the vineyard plot between Panzano and Montefioralle was planted in 1981, back in the days when Chianti was still produced using old, unselected Sangiovese clonal selections. With the 2020 vintage, it is being given its own label for the first time, as its character has become too distinctive to be part of any blend. At an altitude of 500 to 540 metres, Alberese rock alternates with schistose clay-marl – a soil that demands little yield from the old vines, but all the more concentration in return. Following spontaneous fermentation, the Sangiovese matures for 26 months in ten-hectolitre wooden casks, large enough to allow the fruit and terroir to express themselves fully. A total of 2,572 bottles and 46 magnums were produced, each numbered by hand.

Coste di Rose, covering one and a half hectares, is the smallest of Vajra's single-vineyard plots, named after the wild roses that once lined the steep slope in Vergne. Situated at an altitude of 310 to 350 metres, this narrow plot lies on sandy, well-drained soil – significantly lighter than the heavier marl of the neighbouring Bricco delle Viole – and brings out the most fragrant and delicate qualities of the Nebbiolo grown here. The steep slope and small area allow only a limited, almost experimental production within the Vajra range. Produced as a single-varietal wine, it matures for around 36 months in large casks – a shorter period than most other crus in the cellar – a deliberate compromise in favour of freshness and aroma rather than power and tannic richness.

The MGA Le Coste is located in the heights of Monforte d'Alba, where the rows of vines nestle at 440 metres on south-east facing slopes – a site that Barolo connoisseurs appreciate for its vigour and unmistakable character. The whitish marl soils of this plot of just under one hectare give the Nebbiolo the mineral depth and structural rigour that make Monforte wines so unique. Orlando and Attilio Pecchenino vinify the grapes of this single-vineyard Barolo with the utmost respect for the terroir: temperature-controlled fermentation in steel tanks is followed by an extended maceration of 60 days using the historic method of the sunken cap, before the wine matures for a full 36 months in large oak barrels and cement vats after malolactic fermentation.

The latest addition to Vajra's Barolo line-up comes from a 1.5-hectare plot in Coste di Rose, a small MGA (Menzioni Geografiche Aggiuntive) in the Barolo region. This is a steep slope at 310 metres above sea level with a high proportion of sandy soils with good drainage, whose vines and soils are cultivated close to nature. This very accessible Barolo is straightforward, forward and impresses even at a young age with its refreshing candour. A very precise bouquet of cherry, plum, liquorice, spices and menthol, followed by a broad and multi-layered fruity palate with plenty of juice and power, supportive tannins and a full, long, mineral and minty finish. SUPERIORE.DE

Vintage Collection dosage zéro is the purest expression of what Franciacorta can be – and Ca' del Bosco demonstrates just how far this ambition can be taken when precision and patience work in harmony. No dosage, no compromises – just the essence of the grape, the terroir and time. The cuvée, made from Chardonnay, Pinot Nero and Pinot Bianco, comes exclusively from vineyards selected for their expression, depth and freshness. Hand-harvested into small crates, gently pressed, with fermentation and ageing of the base wines in barriques – all under maximum protection from oxidation. This is followed by the tirage and over 50 months' ageing on the lees in the bottle. Disgorged without any added sugar – the pure backbone of the vintage.

Top-class sparkling wine in the finest organic quality! Bolle di Borro – a new interpretation of Sangiovese. Il Borro has been producing a single-varietal Sangiovese sparkling wine using the so-called Champagne method (Metodo Classico) for a few years now. A fragrant, yeasty nose of small red berries and candied citrus peel. On the palate, bread, brioche, delicate Sangiovese fruit and a wonderfully creamy yet precise and crisp, very long finish. Elegance and finesse in purezza! SUPERIORE.DE

As a result of extensive soil research, Francesco Ricasoli was able to identify three microlocations, which will be vinified separately from the 2015 vintage onwards. The range of Chianti Classico Gran Selezione now includes, in addition to the famous Castello di Brolio, three cru sites (Colledilà, Roncicone and Ceniprimo), all of which are 100% planted with Sangiovese. They differ in structure and taste in close correspondence with their terroir and impressively demonstrate the complexity of the Chanti Classico region.

In 1978, Ca' del Bosco launched a sparkling wine which the estate classified at the time as a Crémant, made exclusively from white grapes and designed to be smooth. Since 1990, it has been called Satèn, a name that evokes silk – the sensation it aims to create on the palate. Chardonnay from 25 vineyards across five municipalities in Franciacorta provides the backbone; the vines are on average 27 years old. 15% Pinot Bianco from two plots near Passirano, aged 32 years, adds the necessary roundness. As a vintage sparkling wine, it openly displays its vintage on the label, and 2021 proved a challenging year for the vines, with frost in April and hail in July. Twenty-seven base wines are blended, which mature for five months in small oak barrels before the wine spends an average of 53 months on the lees.