The Wine Advocate

A lake next to the vineyard – that's not a metaphor, it's geography. Vigna del Lago is situated in the north-west of Montalcino, at an altitude of 280 metres, and the small lake that gives the vineyard its name tempers the otherwise continental climate of this exposure: harsh winters, very hot summers, and marked day-night temperature fluctuations. The soil is clay – heavy, water-retaining and cool. A combination that forces the Sangiovese Grosso to put down deep roots, ripen slowly and develop elegance rather than bulk. The vine stock is the densest in the entire Val-di-Suga portfolio: 7,500 vines per hectare – a figure reminiscent of Burgundy's planting densities. Double spur cordon training, careful foliage management, yield reduction through thinning. Hand-harvesting into crates takes place exclusively in the early hours of the morning. In the cellar: fermentation for eight to twelve days, followed by maceration for a further two to three weeks. Maturation in 40-hectolitre Slavonian oak barrels for 24 months, then in concrete tanks, then in bottle. No barriques, no influence from wood – pure terroir. 2021 was a fortunate vintage for Vigna del Lago. The late frost in April reduced the harvest – and concentrated the very best. No extreme summer, no stress.

Concerto was born in 1981, a time of dynamic change in Italian viticulture. The hitherto untapped potential was recognised and experiments were carried out with new grape varieties and, for the first time, successfully with international grape varieties. It was Marchesa Carla Mazzei who spontaneously chose the name Concerto in 1981 after the first tasting of just fifteen barriques – a symphony had taken place in her glass. As one of the first ten Super Tuscans, this wine made history and revolutionised the Tuscan understanding of wine. From the Scassi vineyard in the western part of Fonterutoli, surrounded by oak forests at an altitude of 350 metres, the Sangiovese comes from mass selections from an experimental vineyard in the 1930s. And the small portion of Cabernet Sauvignon has developed a completely independent character here over four decades, far removed from the international character it develops elsewhere. The 18-month maturation in French barriques then gives the wine its noble structure without overshadowing its original elegance.

A monument of wine! Brilliant dark ruby colour. Fresh, silky, elegant - and majestic. Blackberry jam, violets, bittersweet chocolate, plus crushed rock and minerality. An opulent wine with fabulously polished tannins and considerable ageing potential. SUPERIORE.DE

Dal Forno's Amarone della Valpolicella 2018 is, as always, convincing across the board. With a little air, the tannins soften and release a variety of intense dark aromas and flavours. Dark chocolate, cloves, violets, plums and blackberry jam coat every inch of the palate in a stunning Amarone that captures all the best qualities of the vintage. When Romano Dal Forno's wines are on a roll, there's nothing quite like it, and that's certainly the case here. Needs a lot of air when young, experienced connoisseurs will practise patience. SUPERIORE.DE

The Frappato Vino di Contrada PT (with fruit from the Contrada Pettineo) is a shade lower in colour intensity than the BB. This wine is similar to the FL in terms of accessibility and the very silky and delicate nature of its fruit. Arianna Occhipinti has achieved something marvellous for our collective understanding of the Frappato grape with the fermentation of these contrasting wines. Pettineo has sandy soils, and the Alberello vines (later converted to trellises) are over 60 years old. It is definitely on the right track, as you get a better understanding of the range of the grape variety. This expression shows bright freshness, wild berries, wild roses and hints of sweet almonds. Around 2,700 bottles were produced. SUPERIORE.DE

Altesinos Montosoli is always a crowd pleaser and a beautiful wine. It shows depth, intensity and plenty of authenticity both in terms of the grape variety and the area. Dark cherries and blackberries rise from the bouquet with spices, pipe tobacco and damp earth in tow. The wine is complex and nuanced. The authenticity of the Sangiovese comes through clearly on the palate. It is a medium-bodied wine with polished but firm tannins and distinct acidity. The finish shows a touch of freshness, minerality, notes of mint and great depth. SUPERIORE.DE

Of all his wines, the flagship Tenuta di Trinoro offers the deepest insight into Andrea Franchetti's viticulture. Andrea changes the proprietary blend of Cabernet Franc and Merlot from limestone and clay soils every year depending on the quality and quantity of the harvest. The grapes are always the best of the vintage. Franchetti's own style is recognisable in each of his wines and with each vintage. The 2020 vintage was the first to be given an additional year of bottle ageing before being released for sale.

As a result of extensive soil research, Francesco Ricasoli was able to identify three microlocations, which will be vinified separately from the 2015 vintage onwards. The range of Chianti Classico Gran Selezione now includes, in addition to the famous Castello di Brolio, three cru sites (Colledilà, Roncicone and Ceniprimo), all of which are 100% planted with Sangiovese. They differ in structure and taste in close correspondence with their terroir and impressively demonstrate the complexity of the Chanti Classico region.

As a result of extensive soil research, Francesco Ricasoli was able to identify three microlocations, which will be vinified separately from the 2015 vintage onwards. The range of Chianti Classico Gran Selezione now includes, in addition to the famous Castello di Brolio, three cru sites (Colledilà, Roncicone and Ceniprimo), all of which are 100% planted with Sangiovese. They differ in structure and taste in close correspondence with their terroir and impressively demonstrate the complexity of the Chanti Classico region.

The "heart" of Trinoro – the wine that most perfectly embodied Andrea Franchetti's vision. No fixed recipe, no predetermined formula, just the essence of the vintage: the best plots, the ripest grapes, the most expressive terroir. A cuvée that reinvents itself year after year, always dominated by Cabernet Franc and Merlot, complemented by Cabernet Sauvignon and Petit Verdot. The 2022 vintage was characterised by drought and heat, but meticulous foliage work and radical thinning out preserved the balance.

In 2017, exactly thirty years after the first Masseto, Massetino was born: not as a mere second wine, but as an independent interpretation of the same extraordinary terroir. Where its big brother requires patience and can mature for decades, Massetino opens up earlier, more – more accessible, more inviting, without sacrificing depth. A wine that provides an introduction to the Masseto universe without compromising on quality. The cuvée combines Merlot with a small proportion of Cabernet Franc – a deliberate difference to the single-varietal Masseto. The Franc brings floral nuances, herbal spice and an additional aromatic dimension into play, giving the Massetino its own character. Hand-picked in small crates, double selection, temperature-controlled fermentation in stainless steel, then twelve months of ageing in French oak, half of which is new. After blending, the wine rests for a further month before being bottled.

Just like its older brother, Massetino skilfully showcases the contrast between power and opulence combined with restraint and class. A solid, crisp wine with a bright colour, very distinctive, vertical and elevated, intense and expressively aromatic. On the nose, the essence of hyacinth, saffron, wild rosemary, mulberry and a hint of lavender. Juicy on the palate, but with a frame that emphasises the feeling of density and compactness. Vertically layered, but with great depth, tapering downwards to a distant vanishing point. After a silky attack, the present tannins take hold as the wine progresses. Long and pure, very persistent. Massetino is truly something special every year. SUPERIORE.DE

2017 was the very first vintage of Massetino. It was launched in 2019, exactly 30 years after the first Massetino vintage. The newly designed wine cellar by Italian architects Zito & Mori was also inaugurated in 2019. The birth of the second wine and the opening of the wine cellar represent a historic moment for Masseto and clearly contribute to its recognition as a winery.

Of all its wines, the flagship Tenuta di Trinoro offers the deepest insight into the Franchetti family's viticulture. The proprietary blend of Cabernet Franc and Merlot from limestone and clay soils is adjusted each year depending on the quality and quantity of the harvest. The grapes are always the best of the vintage and come from the very best plots. The unique style of this Tuscan wine icon is recognisable with every vintage.

With a few hours in the air, Albesani begins to reveal the inner sweetness and fragrance so typical of wines from this Neive vineyard. Sweet dried cherries, rose petals, kirsch, cinnamon, orange peel and sweet tobacco open up with a little coaxing. Albesani clearly has a lot to offer for those who can wait for the initially prominent tannins to soften. SUPERIORE.DE

Barolo Pira is a great, complex wine that has enormous depth and many nuances that open up further with time. It is light-footed yet wonderfully brooding and has so much to offer. Cherry, sweet red cherry, spice, orange peel, menthol and spice fill out the layers effortlessly. Young Barolo tannins are present, but the fruit is rich enough to keep things in balance. SUPERIORE.DE

"Transparent ruby red. Vines over 80 years old provide the material for this exceptional Barbaresco with a cathedral-like appearance on the nose: the ethereal balsamic superstructure with notes of sandalwood and incense, juniper and rosemary is complemented by fruity litanies of cherries, raspberry jam and blood oranges and adorned by floral overtones of violets, mallow and hollyhocks along with a pinch of white pepper. On the palate, it is precisely parted, of noble understatement and charming nature. The fine, long acidity gives it aristocratic polish, the ripe and tightly woven tannins coat it in the noblest thread. Delicate and transparent, the delicate fruit illuminates the entire palate. Conversations fall silent, glasses clink, laughter. Its approachable manner seems jovial, yet it is demanding with decisive insistence and epochal reverberation. Everyone is happy to obey." Sebastian Bordthäuser (Sommelier und Wein-Journalist)

Rennina from the dream year 2016 is a proud parade drop - everything is in the right place here and, for the true connoisseur, a lot more besides. Deep, almost impenetrable ruby red colour. Initially a rather closed nose with mineral notes and a hint of oak sawdust. Then gravel road, mint and hints of caraway. The palate is fleshy, powerful, with concentrated sour cherry fruit and a present but never intrusive tannin. Despite a certain opulence, it is a balanced wine that - away from the mainstream - is guaranteed to find its friends who will give it the necessary understanding, plenty of experience and patience. SUPERIORE.DE

"Transparent ruby red. The nose is reminiscent of a morning stroll in an oriental bazaar. The ethereal opening combines noble woods such as cedar and sandalwood until one enters the spice zone and juniper mixes with black pepper and cardamom as well as dark tobacco. The fruit vendors cheerfully offer cherries, raspberry jelly and preserved hibiscus blossoms, the florists have small violets on display. One of the market criers refreshes his bicycle chain with a quench of graphite and chews on a piece of liquorice with a smile. The ripe, leafy tannins of the Barolo Pira Vecchie Viti are tightly interwoven with extract-sweet fruit notes and the all-defining acid arc.

Radiant ruby red with purple reflections. In the nose first cherry, then herbal spice, mint and essential oils. Noble woods like cedar and sandalwood mingle with traces of pipe tobacco, smoky tones and damp, autumnal forest floor. On the palate, cherry again, an opulent potpourri of wilted leaves, damp soil, truffles, plus a fine note of old leather. An incredibly complex wine from a famous single vineyard that will give pleasure for many decades to come. SUPERIORE.DE

Where vines grow today, the sea once lay: the soils of Roncicone consist of Pliocene marine deposits, interspersed with shell fossils and lignite – a geological archive that was formed here long before the first vine was planted. In 2015, Francesco Ricasoli included this site in his 'Cru' project, which aims to showcase the diversity of the soils around Brolio on a plot-by-plot basis, with each plot telling its own geological story. At an altitude of 320 metres, facing south-east, the vines grow across almost eleven hectares, planted between 1998 and 2000, pure Sangiovese comprising two clones, densely planted at 6,600 vines per hectare, on subsoil that is unusually rich in organic matter for the region. After around two weeks of fermentation and maceration with daily punching down, the wine matures for 22 months inLiters, 30% of which are new, followed by further ageing in bottle before release.

In 1997, Francesco Ricasoli planted the first vines on a 7.6-hectare plot near Gaiole as part of a project aimed at exploring Sangiovese and its diverse soils. Ten years later, in 2007, the first single-vineyard cru was bottled from these vines – the first of a total of three vineyards identified through the estate’s comprehensive soil mapping. The vines are situated at an altitude of 380 metres with a south-easterly aspect, on calcareous-clay Alberese soil – one of the most characteristic soils of Chianti Classico – which is stony and low in organic matter. A single-varietal Sangiovese, comprising three different clones, is grown here at a high density of 6,600 vines per hectare. After around two weeks of fermentation and maceration with daily punching down, the wine matures for 22 months inLiters, 30% of which are new, before being released following further bottle ageing.

In the southern Arbia Valley lies one of Brolio's rarest soils: an ancient river terrace dating from the Pliocene and Pleistocene epochs, shaped by water that has long since taken a different course. Francesco Ricasoli also included this site in his Cru project in 2015, through which the estate aims to reveal the character of its Sangiovese plot by plot, moving beyond any generalised narrative about Chianti. The vines are planted at an altitude of 300 metres with a south-west aspect, on silty, clay-rich soils with a low stone content, covering around 6.35 hectares with a high planting density of just under 6,000 vines per hectare, a single-varietal Sangiovese comprising three clones, each of which develops its own distinctive character on this rare terraced soil. After around two weeks of fermentation and maceration with daily punching down, the wine matures for 22 months inLiters, 30% of which are new, before being released following further bottle ageing.