Bibenda

Concerto was born in 1981, a time of dynamic change in Italian viticulture. The hitherto untapped potential was recognised and experiments were carried out with new grape varieties and, for the first time, successfully with international grape varieties. It was Marchesa Carla Mazzei who spontaneously chose the name Concerto in 1981 after the first tasting of just fifteen barriques – a symphony had taken place in her glass. As one of the first ten Super Tuscans, this wine made history and revolutionised the Tuscan understanding of wine. From the Scassi vineyard in the western part of Fonterutoli, surrounded by oak forests at an altitude of 350 metres, the Sangiovese comes from mass selections from an experimental vineyard in the 1930s. And the small portion of Cabernet Sauvignon has developed a completely independent character here over four decades, far removed from the international character it develops elsewhere. The 18-month maturation in French barriques then gives the wine its noble structure without overshadowing its original elegance.

Caparzo's La Casa vineyard, located in an enviable position on the hill of Montosoli, has been vinified separately since 1977 and is one of the first single-vineyard bottlings in Montalcino. Like the normal Brunello, La Casa has a surprising underlying acidity that gives the wine brightness and focus, and the northern exposure of the parcel has certainly played a role in this.

Alongside Fragore, Etna-Cru Donnafugata, named after the Contrada Marchesa vineyard of the same name, is Donnafugata's second top wine from the volcano. Its label is adorned with a volcano goddess decorated with flowers and fruit, next to which is the medieval village of Castiglione di Sicilia. The Nerello vines grow on a lava soil rich in minerals, and the location to the north of the volcano ensures temperate summers with strong temperature fluctuations between day and night.

Gant stands for greatness. This Merlot Riserva has been the flagship of Andrian for years. A wine that shows what this international grape variety can achieve at high altitudes in South Tyrol. While Merlot is often too lush elsewhere, here, between 250 and 300 metres above the Adige Valley, it finds its elegant side. The sites are perfectly chosen: Medium-heavy, sandy loam soil ensures good drainage and prevents the Merlot from becoming too fat. The cooler microclimate slows down the ripening process, maintains the acidity and ensures finer tannins. Exactly what this grape variety needs to develop character rather than just vigour. The vinification follows classic rules: Mash fermentation in stainless steel with gentle movement of the mash. After alcoholic fermentation, the wine is transferred to barriques for malolactic fermentation and further ageing. The wood integrates elegantly, providing structure without dominating. Time and patience are two of the secrets of Gant.

The crown jewel of Le Cinciole bears a name that reveals its origins: Petresco, derived from the stony soils of this special single vineyard that Valeria Viganò and Luca Orsini planted over twenty years ago at an altitude of 470 metres. Here, where the Sangiovese vines are optimally positioned above the Panzano valley, one of the region's most exceptional Supertuscans is produced year after year. The 2019 epitomises the estate's uncompromising philosophy: only the very best grapes, hand-picked and carefully selected, find their way into this masterpiece. Spontaneous fermentation in cement tanks at a maximum temperature of 28 degrees preserves the original power of the Sangiovese before the wine completes its malolactic fermentation in French oak barriques. The Petresco rests for twenty-four months in a sophisticated combination of large barrels and barriques – a balanced blend that gives the wine depth without masking its original elegance. A further year in cement vats and at least twelve months of ageing in the bottle complete the development of this exceptional Sangiovese.

Feudo di Mezzo 2021 is an Etna Rosso that acts as a silent mirror of the altitude – luminous but restrained, characterised by the elegance of traditional grape varieties and a touch of irresistible beauty. The 2021 vintage did not produce extreme ripeness on the flanks of Mount Etna, but rather a multi-faceted interplay of red cherries, rose petals and delicately bitter grapefruit – a lively dance between freshness and depth. Early frosts were offset by gentle summer sunshine, allowing for perfect balance and aromatic finesse. The cuvée consists of 85% Nerello Mascalese and 15% Nerello Cappuccio, grown on mineral-rich, volcanic gravel and lava soil in the Contrada Feudo di Mezzo, around 650 to 700 metres above sea level. After selective hand-picking, the wine undergoes traditional fermentation with a long maceration period, followed by 24 months of ageing in large wooden barrels.

The star from Tenuta Sant'Antonio: A rich dark ruby red, its bouquet of wild fruits, black pepper, tobacco and spices is a delight for the nose. Fruity and full-bodied, yet velvety and very sophisticated in its character - an austere, characterful and elegant Amarone, whose terrificfinish is accompanied by noble tannins. SUPERIORE.DE

In the gentle hills of Mezzane di Sotto, where the Monti Garbi rise majestically over the eastern Valpolicella, lies the centrepiece of the Tenuta Sant'Antonio: Campo dei Gigli – the field of lilies. The oldest vines of the brothers Armando, Tiziano, Paolo and Massimo Castagnedi are rooted here, on calcareous white soils with sandy-loamy inclusions at an altitude of 300 metres. A single vineyard that produces a unique wine. Since 1989, the Castagnedi family has embodied the revolution that changed Valpolicella forever: quality instead of quantity, while everyone else was still focussing on quantity. Forty-year-old vines, trained on the traditional Pergola Veronese with only 3,300 vines per hectare, bear the cuvée of 70% Corvina and Corvinone, 20% Rondinella and 5% each of Croatina and the rare Oseleta. The appassimento – the mystical drying period of at least three months – transforms the hand-picked grapes into concentrated essence.

It was Domizio Cavazza, director of the Royal School of Viticulture in Alba, who gave Barbaresco its name and its claim to fame in 1894. A wine that was to stand up to the more powerful Barolo – finer, accessible earlier, but no less complex. More than a century later, the roles are clearly divided: Barbaresco stands for the elegant side of Nebbiolo, for finesse instead of power, for fragrance instead of darkness. Prunotto has found his answer to this appellation in a single vineyard: Bric Turot. Five hectares at around 200 metres, with an exposure from south-west to south-east, which gives the hill the shape of a natural amphitheatre. The soil – tortonian limestone and marl with veins of sand, rich in magnesium and manganese – is the same foundation on which Gajas Sorì Tildin stands just a few metres away. Not bad terrain then.

The name says it all: '61 commemorates the birth year of the very first Franciacorta and the first rosé Metodo Classico in Italy, which also came from Berlucchi. This line embodies the legacy of the pioneers Guido Berlucchi and Franco Ziliani in its purist form: Millesimato, Dosaggio Zero, without any compromise. The 2018 rosé comes from 100% Pinot Nero from the company's own vineyards Ragnoli, Quindicipiò and Gaspa in Corte Franca – all with a high planting density of 10,000 vines per hectare. The strict selection results in only 6,000 kg of grapes per hectare with a must yield of only 33%, which corresponds to 2,640 bottles. To achieve the characteristic rosé colour, some of the grapes are cold macerated for around 24 hours, while the rest is vinified as Blanc de Noirs. After fermentation in stainless steel, the base wines mature for six months on the lees, partly in barriques. This is followed by a second fermentation in the bottle and maturation on the lees for at least 60 months – five years, during which the wine develops its remarkable depth.

The grapes for this Supertuscan come from the San Giovanni vineyard near San Giovanni a Cerreto. In the church next to the vineyard there is a painting by Rutilo Manetti depicting St John the Baptist (San Giovanni). Deep ruby red, youthful, rich, dark fruit, berry and cassis flavours meld with French oak. On the palate with deep, subtle fruit flavours and an excellent balance of fruit and tannin, plus some smoke, liquorice and tar. A rich but not too heavy red with excellent structure and great ageing potential. SUPERIORE.DE

Riecine's Chianti Classico can be described without exaggeration as an archetype of the Gaiole terroir: Bright in the glass with wild fruits, blackberries and white pepper. These slightly wilder flavours are very specific to Gaiole in Chianti, particularly this corner of the sub-zone near the village after which it was named. This cool location produces a sharp and elegant Sangiovese with tension and crispness, savoury tannins, the return of small black fruits and a respectable finish. Riecine has been producing one of the most subtle Chianti Classico wines for years - a marvellous wine. SUPERIORE.DE

Historically, the vineyards of Castello di Fonterutoli are located in the areas of three neighbouring municipalities of Chianti Classico: Castellina in Chianti, Castelnuovo Berardenga and Radda in Chianti. With the 2017 vintage, the Mazzei family vinified all three large vineyards separately as Chianti Classico Gran Selezione for the first time in order to recognise the diversity of the terroir: Castello di Fonterutoli, Vicoregio 36 and Badiòla.

Etna is one of Italy's most fascinating wine regions and Andrea Franchetti is probably the most fanatical producer in this area. Added to this are eighty-year-old indigenous Nerello Mascalese vines. The single vineyard Contrada Porcaria has a thoroughly masculine personality. Darkly scented with ripe fruit and menthol, the palate is predominantly spice and mineral with many other facets. The course and the final are rich, dense and very convincing. SUPERIORE.DE

The fruit for this Brunello comes from a 14.4 hectare south-facing vineyard with loamy soils and lots of boulders. Complex, dark and earthy bouquet of ripe black cherries, enriched with notes of dried flowers, spices, crushed stones and a hint of animal musk. The palate reveals silky textures and pure Sangiovese fruit, underpinned by earthy tones supported by a network of minerals and tannins. The mouthfeel is always lean, tangy and soft, although you can feel the wine's full body and great appeal at all times. The final is polished and refined and lasts for several minutes. SUPERIORE.DE

Guidalberto bears the name of a man who shaped the Bolgheri landscape forever in the early 19th century: Guidalberto della Gherardesca, the visionary agricultural pioneer who created the famous cypress avenue – the Viale dei Cipressi – was created. What was initially intended as a practical demarcation between different areas of cultivation became the iconic silhouette of an entire region. 2023 marks a turning point for this exceptional wine. For the first time, Tenuta San Guido is positioning its Guidalberto separately from the legendary Sassicaia – a deliberate move to demonstrate that this is not a "second wine", but an independent interpretation of the Bolgheri terroir. As Priscilla Incisa della Rocchetta puts it: "You can't compare them. They are completely different worlds." The 2023 vintage is a synthesis of 55 per cent Cabernet Sauvignon and 45 per cent Merlot. While the Cabernet Sauvignon provides structure and depth, the Merlot brings the silky texture and accessible sweetness that makes Guidalberto so distinctive. Fifteen months in French and American barriques give the wine its characteristic balance between strength and elegance.

The MGA Le Coste is located in the heights of Monforte d'Alba, where the rows of vines nestle at 440 metres on south-east facing slopes – a site that Barolo connoisseurs appreciate for its vigour and unmistakable character. The whitish marl soils of this plot of just under one hectare give the Nebbiolo the mineral depth and structural rigour that make Monforte wines so unique. Orlando and Attilio Pecchenino vinify the grapes of this single-vineyard Barolo with the utmost respect for the terroir: temperature-controlled fermentation in steel tanks is followed by an extended maceration of 60 days using the historic method of the sunken cap, before the wine matures for a full 36 months in large oak barrels and cement vats after malolactic fermentation.

With its 2020 Brunello di Montalcino, Tenuta Argiano shows once again why this historic winery is one of the leading voices in Montalcino. The Sangiovese Grosso grapes come from 60 hectares of vineyards around the 16th century villa, whose soils are characterised by clay, limestone and galestro. The year 2020 began with a mild winter and a consistently warm spring. A stable summer without extreme heat peaks and cool nights in September allowed the grapes to ripen evenly and completely. The grapes were harvest by hand in several stages, followed by careful vinification in cement and steel tanks. The wine then matured for 24 months in large Slavonian oak barrels and tonneaux to harmoniously combine structure and elegance.

Barolo Le Coste di Monforte from the outstanding 2019 vintage is utterly captivating in the glass. Rose petals, cedarwood, mint, sweet pipe tobacco and blood orange are the first aromas to emerge. On the palate, it is deep and complex, and exceptionally beautiful and harmonious for a young Barolo. Time in the glass brings out its countless nuances. SUPERIORE.DE

The Riecine vineyard in Gaiole in Chianti has a history dating back to the 11th century. Today's vineyards grow between 430 and 600 metres above sea level on stony, alluvial limestone soils over a subsoil of pure limestone - rock that was once washed here from the Monterossi hill by the ancient Massellone river (once called "Clante", the origin of the name "Chianti"). Since 2006, La Gioia has been a pure Sangiovese, a decision that perfectly reflects the philosophy of the estate: absolute concentration on the noblest of all Tuscan grape varieties.

In 1886, Carlo Campagnola founded his winery in the Marano Valley, in the heart of Valpolicella Classico. In 1907, he won the first gold medal for the best Recioto at the Verona Wine Fair – since then, the family, now in its fifth generation, has continued what began as a small farm. The vineyards for this Amarone are located on calcareous slopes between 200 and 350 metres above sea level, where Corvina, Corvinone and Rondinella are harvested by hand at the end of September. The traditional appassimento drying process takes around 100 days until the grapes have lost 35–40% of their weight. Gentle pressing in December, 30 days of maceration, then ageing: 60% matures for 24 months in large Slavonian oak barrels, 40% for 18 months in new Allier oak barriques.

Historically, the vineyards of Castello di Fonterutoli are located in the areas of three neighbouring municipalities of Chianti Classico: Castellina in Chianti, Castelnuovo Berardenga and Radda in Chianti. With the 2017 vintage, the Mazzei family vinified all three large vineyards separately as Chianti Classico Gran Selezione for the first time in order to recognise the diversity of the terroir: Castello di Fonterutoli, Vicoregio 36 and Badiòla.

Mastrojanni's 2020 vintage has a juicy, fleshy feel that adds to the overall intensity of the wine. In the glass, rich fruit, baking spices and a hint of rum cake. The wine is dark and velvety in appearance, the mouthfeel is balanced, smooth and lingering. It is quickly accessible with its full-bodied appeal and you can enjoy this wine over the next few years without having to wait long. SUPERIORE.DE

The individual parcels (micro-locations) on Etna are called Contrade and the Contrada Passochianche (PC) is the Chardonnay cru from the magical hand of Andrea Franchetti. The visionary, who sadly passed away in 2021, planted high-density Chardonnay here at an altitude of around 900 metres back in 2000. The 2018 vintage marked the debut of a wine that impressively reflects Franchetti's many years of experience on Etna. Like all Contrade wines, it has its very own personality and demonstrates very clearly how a grape variety gains its very own form of expression in different locations. Just 2,660 bottles of this fresh, characterful and salty-mineral Chardonnay were filled. SUPERIORE.DE